Jump to content

BigDaddy13440

Members
  • Content count

    126
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

BigDaddy13440 last won the day on January 16

BigDaddy13440 had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

3 Positive addition

About BigDaddy13440

  • Rank
    Junior Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    my home

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. BigDaddy13440

    Yukon XL rear fill speakers

    Decided to follow the advice given, and negate the rear speakers. Thanks all!
  2. BigDaddy13440

    Dayton Audio subwoofers

    Also did a center console, as my middle bench seat was shot. Tore the seat apart, saved the frame so that I would have good, solid mounting points for the console. Have two older Powerbass S-10s (single coil) in a 1.2 cu ft sealed enclosure, planning on running them with an old Kenwood 250w monoblock for midbass, most likely from 60 Hz to about 120Hz. Want to anchor the front imaging, I did this in my old Tahoe, and really liked the way it sounded. The base, with all my junk underneath. None of that will be in there, will be mounting two of my amps underneath - that's what the cleats are for, to raise the console itself up. Front section of the console, sealed enclosure for the two 10's. Not ported, I have those ports sealed off with the "puck" from the cutout, they make great cupholders, can easily hold a 32 oz bottle of Powerade. The one hole was off by about 1/8th of an inch, but anal retentive mind wouldn't deal with it, so I ovaled both holes, and built out the holes a bit with some thick marine-grade tape. Problem solved. Two tens, wired in parallel for a 2 ohm load. Console pushed all the way forward, matching the contour of the dash. You can see how it is elevated off the base (still have all my junk in there during the test fitting, since removed and filling up the storage space). Center console storage, fits tight with the forward enclosure. A couple of side trim pieces, don't want everything to be square and boxy. The holes in the bottom enclosure are there for two purposes - 1) allow ventilation for the amps, and 2) putting blue LEDs inside, will get a nice glow radiating out onto the front floor. And finally, the lid for the storage. It flips open towards the passenger seat, there's enough of a lip where it extends over the curved trim piece so that I don't need to build in any handle or finger pull. I have a roll of the same carpet that I used for the rear enclosure, using that and some darker gray carpet to wrap everything, give it a little bit of contrast. Wish I had an enclosed garage, I could be working on this while I'm out of work recovering from surgery.
  3. BigDaddy13440

    Dayton Audio subwoofers

    I'd love to be able to go larger, but my enclosure is built into the back corner of my Yukon XL - doesn't take up any floor space whatsoever.
  4. BigDaddy13440

    Dayton Audio subwoofers

    And I've been around the forum for long enough to know that your own tastes are not the "slapping, buzzing, tin can farting" noise that most people with multi-thousand watts and 4 or more subwoofers desire. I've had two fifteens in my truck before, I've been in vehicles with eight twelves, and it's not my cup of tea, either. I want, good, tight, accurate bass that doesn't overwhelm the rest of the system. While I'm not the audiophile that you are, I respect your opinion as your taste is probably the closest to my own. While I occasionally listen to some Eminem, I don't generally listen to rap. My musical interests are generally modern, hard and alternative rock, ranging from Alter Bridge to Velvet Revolver, Alice In Chains to Powerman 5000, Ronnie James Dio to Def Leppard. I'm 47, and grew up in the Hair Metal era.
  5. BigDaddy13440

    Dayton Audio subwoofers

    Am currently looking at subwoofers to upgrade from my lowly Powerbass S-10D's. Have been running a Lightning Audio 1001.d monoblock @ 1 ohm for the last year, and every time I get it cranking, the amp shuts off after 10-15 minutes, blowing fuses. I am running a 250 amp alternator, and a brand new 1000ca/800cca battery, with 1/0 run back to my distribution block, and a 14" 4ga run to the amp, with the big 3 under the hood. Will be adding a second battery, under the hood, as there is a second battery tray. I really don't want to run much more power than what I already have, as I don't want to get into having to add a dual alternator, or putting another battery in the back. Probably looking at a1200-1500 watt amp, possibly Skar or Audiopipe, just depends on what I can find for a deal. The Powerbass subs are only rated at 350 watts rms, I'd like to be able to run a clean 600-750 to each. I haven't found much out there for a sub that has a high sensitivity, other than the Dayton's below. Most 10" subs that can handle 500 watts rms or more only have a sensitivity from 83-87db, these Dayton's are supposedly 90.5db. If I remember correctly, it takes double the power to achieve 3db more in output - if that's so, then these Daytons with 600 watts would have the same output as a different sub pushed by 1200 watts at a 87.5db sensitivity, or 2400 watts pushing a sub with 83.5db sensitivity. I know that Dayton is primarily a home audio company, but these have me intrigued. Specs look decent, and what other content I've found online seems to agree. If not these, then make another suggestion for a higher-sensitivity 10" sub, that will work in a 1.25-1.3cu ft enclosure (mine is about 2.8 cubes, less sub and port displacement). https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-rss265ho-44-10-reference-ho-dvc-subwoofer--295-463
  6. BigDaddy13440

    Yukon XL rear fill speakers

    The primary reason I've even been thinking about the rears is that I use the truck for work, and usually have the hatch open all the time for access to my tools and supplies. If I delete the rear speakers, then the music has to come from the doors, over the front seats, and through the vehicle before I hear it. I doubt that'd be a serious issue, I could just roll the front windows down, but a lot of the time I have the hatch open when it's raining and I have a covered are to work in (I install doors for Lowe's). As I said, not a major concern, but if I can easily remedy it, why not? Dual 6.5's in each front door, single 6.5 in the rear door paralleled with the 3.5's or 4's, will have a 2 ohm load of each channel. Ideally.... I'd love to get some waterproof exterior speakers, and make some swing-out brackets. Have them running off a separate amp (and have switches to shut off each amp), would be great for work (and tailgating!).
  7. BigDaddy13440

    Yukon XL rear fill speakers

    Pretty much as the title implies.... I've got a 2004 Yukon XL, and I'm updating the entire system. Just replaced my alternator with a 253amp model from a 3500 series pickup (factory option! bolted right in!), will shortly be wiring up a second 1000cca battery. Dual 1/0 runs to the rear, fused at both ends. Currently only running (1) amp, and old Lightning Audio 1001.d @ 1 ohm, will be swapping that out, most likely to a Skar RP-1501.D. Two Powerbass S10-d (dual coil) subs in a 2.7-ish cu ft box built into the rear quarter panel. Tuning is way too low, probably about 24-25Hz. Factory speakers in the doors and rear pillars, will soon be changing them out - probably doing a pair of 6.5's in the front doors, a single 6.5 in the rear doors, and a pair of 10" Powerbass S-10's (single coil) sealed in the front portion of my center console as mid-bass, from 60-150Hz. Will plan on running the speakers and front S-10's on a five-channel amp, most likely Skar's AP-600.5. I've got nothing set in stone for the 6.5's, there are literally hundreds of options - but if anyone has some reasonably priced option, please offer suggestions. My biggest dilemma is figuring out what to put in the rear C-pillars. The factory fill is a 2" or 2 1/2", only about 3/4" deep. I'd like to go bigger, even if it's a 3 1/2" or 4". Would run them in parallel with the rear door speakers, dropping the load down to 2 ohms, the same as the front doors. Has anyone ever seen the C-pillars upgraded/enlarged? I found a pair of PPI Sedona series 4" two-ways, supposedly will handle 60 watts RMS, max of 200 watts. The Skar 5-channel is rated at 90x4 @ 2 ohms, so each would see a safe 45 watts. Thoughts/suggestions?
  8. BigDaddy13440

    SSA Forum Members, I need your Help!!!

    My son Andrew entered a contest for the NEW mascot for Enchanted Forest's Water Safari, and his entry was chosen as one of the five finalists. Andrew is Autistic, and has really made huge strides over the last few years, and has developed quite an imagination and creativity. If he were to win this contest, he would be absolutely thrilled, as would his mother and I. Please take a few minutes, and vote for his entry, "Louie the Safari Duck". Link to the page: Water Safari's Mascot Contest I thank each and every one of you in advance.
  9. Not the same then. x2, different vehicle, different cabin characteristics. Hell even tearing out a whole system and reinstalling in the same car is bound to be different on the TL. All I was saying, was that the Powerbass gear was an excellent example of good, clean power for much less coin that RF. Not knocking your guys' knowledge, you obviously compete. I don't, never have, don't ever intend on it. I just enjoy clear sound, and moderately loud listening levels. I doubt my system even approaches 145db, I don't know, never been on a meter. But it sounds great for MY application. There may be other amp companies that make gear better than PB for less money, someone mentioned AQ...
  10. I know almost everyone here has auxiliary batteries to push their systems, but how did you wire them up? Did you run an output wire from your alternator to the primary battery, then run another run to your auxiliary(s), or did you run wiring straight from the alternator to both? Anybody using a dual-battery isolator or relay system, or is it just a waste of time and/or expense? GM originally used a parallel wiring scheme for its factory dual-battery system, I'm just wondering if that is the BEST way. I don't want to have any adverse effects on the alternator. I just want to do it right.
  11. BigDaddy13440

    12 volt/ 16 volt system

    As the OP, I remember that in the mid-80's, GM used a 24 volt electrical system on a bunch of the military Blazers and Diesels. There was a shop in Syracuse that did up a competition system in one of these, and used some modded PPI amps that were capable of running at 24 volts, powered by multiple 12v batteries in a series/parallel configuration. IF it were possible to find one of these vehicles, THEORETICALLY would there be any advantage to run a 24V setup vs a 12V?
  12. BigDaddy13440

    12 volt/ 16 volt system

    As the OP, I remember that in the mid-80's, GM used a 24 volt electrical system on a bunch of the military Blazers and Diesels. There was a shop in Syracuse that did up a competition system in one of these, and used some modded PPI amps that were capable of running at 24 volts, powered by multiple 12v batteries in a series/parallel configuration. IF it were possible to find one of these vehicles, THEORETICALLY would there be any advantage to run a 24V setup vs a 12V?
  13. BigDaddy13440

    5 to 10 MPH my A$$

    I had an old Ford Tempo, I slid sideways while trying to make a turn onto the street an ex-girlfriend lived on. I know for a fact that I couldn't have been doing more than 10mph even with the studded snows I had on, can't even make the turn on dry roads at 15. Anyway, slid sideways, and bumped the curb. Didn't get hung up in the snow, thought everything was OK, drove to her house about 100 yards up the road. About 4 hours later, started to head home. My steering wheel was offset a bit, thought maybe I bent a tie rod, would have to get it fixed the next day. Had about 15 miles to go, didn't dare drive over 20mph, I was all over the road, had to drive with my flashers on on the edge of the highway. Took it to the shop the next day, tie rods were fine. Control arms were fine. Rack and pinion was fine. Turned out, as I did that little slide, the front wheel was turned perfectly, hit the curb completely square...... and with enough force to actually bend the frame of the car. Tweaked it enough so that the wheel no longer was 90* perpendicular with the road, it was shoved in at the bottom at about a 15* angle. If it had been a control arm, or a tie rod, the parts would have been about $35, plus the alignment. Took the Body Shop almost 4 hours on the frame machine to get it as close as they could, and at $75/hr.... and I still needed an alignment.
  14. After reading through a bunch of threads at a truck forum I'm on, someone asked about running a 16v system separately to power their system. I know some of the trailer-queen competitors use unregulated amps and they can crank their voltages up to 16+, but is it possible to do it in a daily-driver? Does anyone make a high-output alternator that would sufficiently charge a 16V battery (like the Kinetic KHC16V), and still be OK for daily use? Would the Kinetic last if being used daily? OR, would it be more beneficial to use a bunch of 12V batteries, dual or triple alts, and stay with regulated amps?
  15. BigDaddy13440

    chevy s10 design

    If you've got bucket seats, why not rip out the center console (if you have one), and extend the enclosure between the seats as a "T"? You could always use the "T" section as an external port, would gain you at least a couple feet of interior volume behind the seats. If you've already ripped out all the plastic interior pieces, why not use a LOT of heavy fiberglass mat and have the sides and back of the enclosure conform to the shape of the truck? Lay a mat of 1/2" dense foam on all the metal surfaces, then 'glass over it - I'm sure you'd have the capability of finding 8-9 cubes, easily.
×