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BigDaddy13440

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About BigDaddy13440

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  1. SSA Forum Members, I need your Help!!!

    My son Andrew entered a contest for the NEW mascot for Enchanted Forest's Water Safari, and his entry was chosen as one of the five finalists. Andrew is Autistic, and has really made huge strides over the last few years, and has developed quite an imagination and creativity. If he were to win this contest, he would be absolutely thrilled, as would his mother and I. Please take a few minutes, and vote for his entry, "Louie the Safari Duck". Link to the page: Water Safari's Mascot Contest I thank each and every one of you in advance.
  2. Not the same then. x2, different vehicle, different cabin characteristics. Hell even tearing out a whole system and reinstalling in the same car is bound to be different on the TL. All I was saying, was that the Powerbass gear was an excellent example of good, clean power for much less coin that RF. Not knocking your guys' knowledge, you obviously compete. I don't, never have, don't ever intend on it. I just enjoy clear sound, and moderately loud listening levels. I doubt my system even approaches 145db, I don't know, never been on a meter. But it sounds great for MY application. There may be other amp companies that make gear better than PB for less money, someone mentioned AQ...
  3. I know almost everyone here has auxiliary batteries to push their systems, but how did you wire them up? Did you run an output wire from your alternator to the primary battery, then run another run to your auxiliary(s), or did you run wiring straight from the alternator to both? Anybody using a dual-battery isolator or relay system, or is it just a waste of time and/or expense? GM originally used a parallel wiring scheme for its factory dual-battery system, I'm just wondering if that is the BEST way. I don't want to have any adverse effects on the alternator. I just want to do it right.
  4. 12 volt/ 16 volt system

    As the OP, I remember that in the mid-80's, GM used a 24 volt electrical system on a bunch of the military Blazers and Diesels. There was a shop in Syracuse that did up a competition system in one of these, and used some modded PPI amps that were capable of running at 24 volts, powered by multiple 12v batteries in a series/parallel configuration. IF it were possible to find one of these vehicles, THEORETICALLY would there be any advantage to run a 24V setup vs a 12V?
  5. 12 volt/ 16 volt system

    As the OP, I remember that in the mid-80's, GM used a 24 volt electrical system on a bunch of the military Blazers and Diesels. There was a shop in Syracuse that did up a competition system in one of these, and used some modded PPI amps that were capable of running at 24 volts, powered by multiple 12v batteries in a series/parallel configuration. IF it were possible to find one of these vehicles, THEORETICALLY would there be any advantage to run a 24V setup vs a 12V?
  6. 5 to 10 MPH my A$$

    I had an old Ford Tempo, I slid sideways while trying to make a turn onto the street an ex-girlfriend lived on. I know for a fact that I couldn't have been doing more than 10mph even with the studded snows I had on, can't even make the turn on dry roads at 15. Anyway, slid sideways, and bumped the curb. Didn't get hung up in the snow, thought everything was OK, drove to her house about 100 yards up the road. About 4 hours later, started to head home. My steering wheel was offset a bit, thought maybe I bent a tie rod, would have to get it fixed the next day. Had about 15 miles to go, didn't dare drive over 20mph, I was all over the road, had to drive with my flashers on on the edge of the highway. Took it to the shop the next day, tie rods were fine. Control arms were fine. Rack and pinion was fine. Turned out, as I did that little slide, the front wheel was turned perfectly, hit the curb completely square...... and with enough force to actually bend the frame of the car. Tweaked it enough so that the wheel no longer was 90* perpendicular with the road, it was shoved in at the bottom at about a 15* angle. If it had been a control arm, or a tie rod, the parts would have been about $35, plus the alignment. Took the Body Shop almost 4 hours on the frame machine to get it as close as they could, and at $75/hr.... and I still needed an alignment.
  7. After reading through a bunch of threads at a truck forum I'm on, someone asked about running a 16v system separately to power their system. I know some of the trailer-queen competitors use unregulated amps and they can crank their voltages up to 16+, but is it possible to do it in a daily-driver? Does anyone make a high-output alternator that would sufficiently charge a 16V battery (like the Kinetic KHC16V), and still be OK for daily use? Would the Kinetic last if being used daily? OR, would it be more beneficial to use a bunch of 12V batteries, dual or triple alts, and stay with regulated amps?
  8. chevy s10 design

    If you've got bucket seats, why not rip out the center console (if you have one), and extend the enclosure between the seats as a "T"? You could always use the "T" section as an external port, would gain you at least a couple feet of interior volume behind the seats. If you've already ripped out all the plastic interior pieces, why not use a LOT of heavy fiberglass mat and have the sides and back of the enclosure conform to the shape of the truck? Lay a mat of 1/2" dense foam on all the metal surfaces, then 'glass over it - I'm sure you'd have the capability of finding 8-9 cubes, easily.
  9. need ideas on a new project veh.

    You want something different? Try a hearse. Wayne Harris (of Rockford Fosgate and TermLab fame) did one back in the early 80's, it was magnificent. That car is what got him IN to car audio, everything just blew up from there. Here's a quick link, but do a Google search for Wayne Harris terminator hearse: http://www.mobilesoundscience.com/f30/wayne-harris-1960-cadillac-hearse-terminator-1988-csr-304/
  10. A buddy of mine is a Powerbass dealer, absolutely LOVES their stuff, especially for the money. He's got two similar sound-off cars, one with all Fosgate gear (he's also a certified RF dealer), one with Powerbass. Same tunes, same power... RF car hit 157.8, Powerbass car hit 158.2.... with about 65% of the equipment costs.
  11. How much power is considered to much?

    I've only got 250w RMS (rated) going to each of my 15" Celestions (98db efficiency), plenty loud enough to rattle everything in my Tahoe. Got 125 watts going to each of the 10's in my center console, brings the low end staging a bit towards the front. For my highs, only running 40watts x 4. Hmm.... 910 watts at full rated power, and I get headaches if I play it for more than 15-20 minutes at volume just shy of distortion. You guys running 5K daily have to be nearly deaf.
  12. Have deminsions need some ideas

    Get some threaded couplings that are the same thread as your nuts that hold the seat in place, thread them over the existing bolts, and use some threaded rod to extend them. Use some fender washers on the "new" bolts, and reuse your existing nuts to hold the seat down. You'll wind up with a lift the same height as the length of the threaded couplings, most likely about 2 1/2" for a 1/2" bolt, if I'm mistaken. If you wanted to go higher, you could always fab up some brackets using 2" or 3" C-channel, you could even offset the seat forward/backward or left/right by moving your mounting holes - I did this for a little old man who couldn't see over the steering wheel of his Dodge truck. Of course, this wouldn't work if your brackets bolt in at angles, instead of completely vertically.
  13. Port Area: How much is too much?

    try this: Port Size Calculator input the driver size, and the Xmax, it'll give you the recommended cross-sectional area of the port. plus-or-minus 10%, you should be fine.
  14. Raise ohms?

    Might want to get a bigger power supply, that 25amp piece is woefully incapable of allowing the amp(s) to reach anywhere near their potential.
  15. slot port tuning

    What box size, port, and sub do you have now? Try this: http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 It bases the cross-sectional area of the port on the amount of air the sub displaces. Input the diameter of the sub(s), the Xmax, and the desired tuning frequency - it'll tell you the size of a square port. From there, figure out the dimensions of the slotted port you need.
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