hdrox88

If you are using super small amps like I did, the console is a great place to hide amps. Considering I'll be running several amps in my Tahoe. I'm not sure how quickly you are moving along, but I will be moving my bc3500 to the under seat location you are asking about in the next few weeks or so. If you wanted to see how I go about it I can make sure to take extra pics.

Time for a little ear exercise and find out how much I need to work on my tuning.

Fail on my part. Carry on.

For Lou to react like that, you know it is damn loud in there. Always enjoy your vids!

It appears you just answered your own question. Unless you are after tenths, more cone area is probably your next step. Getting your voltage to hold a bit higher, say 13.8+, may help a little. The way you are coming off here though, a much larger jump in output is desired.

That is not why you fried it. Overpowering is the problem. Number of coils and/or resistance doesn't make a driver stronger or weaker. Though I am probably wasting time trying to explain this as you have already made up your mind about us.

Will be following this one for sure!

I meant January 11. Won't let me edit previous post for some reason?

No. I wasn't there long enough. It was kinda a last minute thing. I wish I would have known about it sooner. Looks like January 17 will be the next one in my area.

If you are saying that you found some fault in the wiring, that may very well be what the problem was. Clipping from the low pass filter is doubtful. Unless you had a severely clipped signal to start with and the lpf was adjusted in such a way that it allowed it to reach the sub. Most music these days has clipping in it, it's when something gets pushed too far somewhere that more clipping will be introduced and cause failure if something isn't done about it. Setting your low pass filter above the subs listed "max frequency" isn't going to kill it. Listed frequency response of a sub is not a very useful number as the enclosure you have the sub in will have the largest impact on the response of you sub.

"Start of a massive build," coming from the guy already breaking a 60. Curious to see what's next.

I am not too familiar with bmw, so take what I say here with caution. Maybe the extra space is there for a larger battery on the larger engine options? Try checking with XS power and/or a dealer to see if there is a different battery for the larger engines.

You pretty much just made my point. I don't know if I should try to clarify what I meant, as it may just get crapped on all over again. If you truly want help, you will clean up the mess you just made and compose yourself. The title of your thread does say "help" after all. Telling us what you know, and what we don't know is not going to get you anywhere.

I just read this and am not quite sure what to say without sounding like a dick. Lee put it pretty well in his first post. I am going to go out on a limb and say you had a pair of 12" subs, now only one in working condition. If this is accurate, a single 12 is not going to be heard "a block away" so don't try to push it that far. You know what that smell means? Turn it down. Is is not the equipments fault that it failed, majority of car audio failure is user error or inexperience. Lots of what you are saying is showing that you have been mislead somewhere along the way. If you are willing to actually learn, and not piss and moan when someone tells you that you are mistaken, this is going to be the best place to find the correct information. You will have to put in a little effort though, as this is not the group to spoon feed you. Most here will try to help, if you let them.

But then can I turn the volume up from there?As M5 said, you want to have your gains set with balance and fade zeroed out. Say with song X you can turn your volume knob to 23 before audible distortion sets in. Then you fade to rear a little bit to get a heavier low end sound to the song. If you are already at 23 volume and you turn it up louder then your sub stage will more than likely be over driven since it never got cut back like the front did.

When balance and fade are at zero/center all output is equal to each channel. Let's say you fade to the rear to increase bass response in your setup. It will actually cut the front channels creating a louder perceived bass response.

Even option B will be risky. I have a battery under the hood, a second battery in the rear by the amp, 130 amp stock alt, big 3, and a Crescendo 3500. I am wired at 2ohm and drop down to 13.4v on heavy bass tracks. With your primary battery in the rear, you might have a chance of being ok if you are a casual listener with the occasional burst here and there. With heavy emphasis on the "might" in that sentence. The 3500D is 86% efficient at 4ohm. At 2ohm, maybe 75% roughly. At 14.4v and 1750 watts that is about 162 amps. Obviously that isn't all the time as music is dynamic. But hopefully it will help you better grasp the amount of power you are trying to run, if you don't know already. My .02, if your stock alt really is 180 amps, a second battery is HIGHLY recommended.

Hmm, very tempting...

I noticed the SHCA wire is on sale. Will the full SHCA line be on sale? I need some ring terminals and fuse holders.

Wishing I didn't drag my feet on that battery.

Really diggin the stained look.

Here are the other two videos I got that day.

I shot a few videos today, this is the only one that I can seem to get off of my phone. Still working on the other two.

58in^2 of port area

I have the day off tomorrow, I've been meaning to get some flex footage. Will see what my camera phone can do. FML.