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By Second Skin
The awesome guys at Colorado Car Audio just finished a sweet Dodge Ram 3500 Pro Master Van build with full sound and heat insulation along with a stereo upgrade and the work is very nice!!!
They applied Spectrum and Damplifier Pro CLD to all of the metal to kill vibration noise and help with heat transfer through the metal. They used Luxury Liner Pro MLV+CCF next to block out unwanted airborne noise and thermally insulate the walls. And they used Mega Zorbe Hydrophobic Melamine Foam to absorb sound and thermally insulate the roof of this huge van!!!
When the proper layers are applied to the correct locations, a huge difference in noise level reduction can be achieved. Setting the stage for a nice and clean platform for your stereo to perform in a much more enjoyable environment....especially with these tin can sprinter vans....treating them makes a HUGE difference in noise comfort levels.
Thank you guys for the awesome work and pictures. Thank you for insisting on high-quality Second Skin products for all of your builds. #TeamSecondSkin #SecondSkinUSA #SecondSkinAudio #SecondSkinForTheWin
Spectrum Liquid Sound Deadening
Luxury Liner Pro Mass Loaded Vinyl with Closed Cell Foam infused
Mega Zorbe Standard Hydrophbic Melamine Foam
New Kenwood Touch Screen Head Unit
Upgraded Stereo System
Figured I should start a build log since I've gone through so much trial and error in getting this stereo to sound good.
I'm already done with most things but I did take pictures along the way so i'll get that all uploaded when i get photobucket or imgur figured out.
I bought my passat almost a year ago, the weekend after black Friday to be exact, and knew immediately that it needed some love in the bass department.
I had a rockford p-300-12 powered enclosure lying around that i once had mounted in a big self-propelled sprayer that i basically lived in for 3 summers, threw that in along with a rockford loc, rockford rca's, and some ebay 4ga cca to get it powered.
That sounded awesome for the average non-basshead and would suffice until i found a real solution....
Did some searching and found this great place! After searching and reading here for hours I decided on a Fi BL 12 for a sub and a BRZ1200.1 hifonics amp to power it since i'm a poor college student and can't afford a bc, aq or saz lol
I built a vented box for the BL that was 2.68ft^3 tuned to 28.5hz
After I finished the box I had to stuff foam above the headliner near the upper brake light and under the rear deck to stop some rattling. Installed some dampener (dynamat and ebay stuff) to the trunk lid, under the trunk carpet on the floor, and rear deck from inside the trunk. dampener helped a ton.
After the substage I realized that the stock front stage was not going to cut it... I knew that I wanted to fill some of the lacking upper bass frequencies with some volume so I was looking for the biggest components I could get for a decent price. Ended up getting the xr1800p components from Kenwood. They've got a big 7" woofer and an oversized 1 3/16" tweeter with external crossovers. currently the set is being powered by a dusty old pioneer 4-channel amp GM-x524. I'm not perfectly satisfied with the front stage for now since the amp likes to protect at high volumes and I've got some fuzzy distortion from the tweeters in certain frequencies. once i change the amp to the GM-d8604 class d 4-channel from pioneer I think it will get much better as I have the older GM-d9500f version in my s10 that never protects and has no distortion until extreme volume.
also ran another 4ga run of cca to the trunk and a distribution block when I added the second amp.
Also changed out the stock HU for a Pioneer Avh2600bt touchscreen unit which is fantastic for the money.
I decided that the box was tuned too low so I chopped 10.5" off the port giving me a 2.88ft^3 net volume tuned to 32.2hz and was much happier!
Now for the real reason I'm starting this build log.. I'm going to try a 6th order bandpass to keep this 'new to me' low end rumble and get back the awesome upper frequency volume from my mtx square sub in my s10 for when i want to blast the 50hz Flux Pavilion bass cannon!
Much more to follow, including pics for the above^ stuff!
Okay, we were finally able to get the vehicle that will be replacing the van as our daily driver. I found a nice 2010 Traverse AWD with everything the wife wanted in it and a little more with decent miles on it and I even got a decent deal on it. Now, the wife realized before we even got serious about shopping for one that we should probably tone down the size of the install in the new vehicle. While she was/is still wanting some good sounding speakers and some bump going to the the size and extent of the build in the van was more than we need for this one. One of the biggest reasons for that was simply because of the damage the Q's caused the van. Before I installed them it was QUIET, not one interior panel rattled or made noise, not hardly a hint of sheet metal rattling could be heard. At this point now not only is there a great deal of noise coming from the interior panels (particularly in the rear) but the Q's even managed to tear a spot welded seam in the floor of the van loose. We simply don't want to repeat that in the new one.
For this build we're looking at something smaller, possibly along the lines of a pair of 10's if the space is right, single 12, etc. Something like the DCON, GCON or ICON come to mind, SSD's, possibly even IA or something else I've not got a chance to try yet as well. We'll be running 1,000 to 1,500 watts on the subs and no more than that at all. What goes in will depend completely upon the space available and which sub choice will work best with that space. I'm going to try to keep the rear of the vehicle as usable as possible so I'm probably going to be building an enclosure with the subs firing downward and the port to the side. The enclosure will likely consume all the space available on the width and depth behind the 3rd row seat and my limiting factor will be that we're trying to keep the enclosure height to about half the total height of the 3rd row seat.
The wife wants another Kenwood HU so we'll likely be ordering a DDX491HD and a Maestro RR integration unit this weekend for the source and to keep all the factory wheel functions and such. I'm looking to use a PPI P900.4 for the highs and a similarly sized subwoofer amp to run the subs and those will be tucked away in the storage compartment under the floor in the rear with added ventilation if necessary.
That brings me to my biggest frustration with this build, lol. Before we got serious about shopping for a vehicle the wife was COMPLETELY on board for me doing whatever was necessary to install the Bravox 603's. Fiberglassed custom door panels were in the plans for whatever that vehicle was going to be, uh, well, right up until we picked up the Travy. Now it's, "You aren't really going to cut it up and put holes in the doors are you?" and "There's already places for tweeters, you can just use those right?" then finally "You can just use the factory places for now, I want it to have a good sounding stereo but not know it until you hear it, as in can't see nothin'."
So, there goes anything remotely close to what I was wanting to do. I thought if the Bravox's wouldn't work out I might do a dedicated full range/midbass setup, or maybe even the equivalent of the Arc Audio Black 6.2 speakers in the SB Acoustic's mid and tweeter that Arc is using, or something really and truly worth a damn to do. Nope. She gave me a pretty much open budget for speakers but I don't see the point in spending any kind of good money on a set of components that cannot be optimally installed. So I'm not completely sure where I'm going to go with the highs. I have found a hell of a deal (<$250)on a new set of Kicker QS65.2 components which I'm leaning toward but I have to verify if there's any possibility of getting that tweeter behind the A pillar. I've also looked at the MB Quart QC216 set which has a nice looking large format tweeter but since Maxxsonics has their nasty hands in MBQ now I'm kind of shying away from them as well. As soon as I can figure out what the hell to do (still need to verify some measurements) I'll pull the trigger on equipment and get it coming.
Although the Travy is pretty quiet from the factory I'm still going to be ordering some SDS to treat the doors and all of the rear to start with. I'll work on the floor and roof after we've had it a little while. It has the sun roofs so I'm not in a real hurry to tear all that interior off the roof, nor am I in a hurry to figure out how to tear all the seats, center console, and carpeting out to treat those areas just yet. I also have to pull the door panels off to see what kind of baffles I'll need to construct for it. Luckily with the lower power I'm looking at running and the 170A factory alternator I shouldn't be looking at having to do anything too major on the electrical side of things. Probably just the BIG 3 in 1/0 with Knu Kolossus.
So, that's the, um, kind of the plan, for what little plan there is. The more I can verify as far as fit in this thing the better the direction for what/where it will go is going to look. I hope to have all that figured out and to be ordering equipment and supplies this weekend.
Here's a quick shot of the Travy. I just grabbed it to show to a co-worker.
Any input is welcome, especially from anyone who's done some install work in one of these as the entire Lambda platform is completely new to me.
Looking to upgrade my entry-level pioneer DEH-14UB Head Unit IF it will make a worthwhile difference in output or sound level mainly on my sub-stage going with a 4-6v pre-out upper-class pioneer, kenwood or alpine deck. Tell me what do you guys think? I already have the entry-level pioneer wired to a clarion MCD-360 crossover with 5v max output voltage so am I really going to notice a difference in the bass production from the subs or no??
All comments and opinions are appreciated thanks:)
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