Sound Deadening

i thought i heard about some on here recently? like 119 for i forgot how much, but it was alot....help!?

I'm about to sound deaden my 1998 gmc jimmy. Has anyone every used the product b-queit ultimate? Also how much should i use. I've heard that only 25% coverage works perfect. I'm not going for insane spl numbers i simply want to stop rattles, and make it sound better on the highway? Any suggestions on better products around the same price? How much to use??

Im looking for some advice on killing the rattle from my sliding sunroof cover. When it's slid open, it's ridiculously loud, but when it's closed, it's not bad at all. I'm planning on dropping the headliner to put some damplifier up there soon. Just don't want to go in blind and waste product.

I haven't done any sounddeading yet. the only really bad rattle you hear on my car are the sides mirrors. when i open the door they stop. would CLD on the doors stop this(i guess by preventing the vibration from reaching the mirrors) or is there any way to deaden the mirrors without seeing anything extra on them. they are the foldable mirrors by the way

Sup, My sunroof is clapping pretty bad with my current setup and I'm planning on doubling it, so I wanted to know if anyone has been relatively successful controlling sunroof clap. I only have problems when giving demos and competing, since I don't bump it (full tilt) on the daily. I use my sunroof, so I have no plans to glue it shut or permantly disable it.

Ok, I got a package from Don the other day and started deadening my doors today. I started with the passenger side first. I applied the CLD on inner doorskin outer door skin, cut the ccf and mlv and glued them together. I made small square cut outs for the clips and only a few of them will engage and clip to the door. I'm so damn frustrated with wrestling with this thing, any ideas? Maybe cut the squares around the clips larger?

Well the rear dash Is shaking a lot now, broke some clips that hold in the 6x9s into the dash, lots of rattle via the back trunk. I'm familiar with fat mat as I've used it before, but I'm looking to only spend about 50-60 bucks on some sort of sound proofing material to use on my back trunk, top lining and the bottom where the 6x9s are(ill probably just take them out for good). Would probably need about 50 Or so sq ft. What would be some good options/alternatives? I heard about just using roofing material insulation with. The tar/rubber based bottom from home depot. What would be the downside to using a material like that?

any one tried it i just did the whole trunk,the back quarter panels and the rear seats.didnt want to do the floor because i got too lazy sound deadening is a b,paid $160 with shipping for 100 sq ft. 80 mil has any one had any bad experiences if i have a problem im gonna guess its when it gets hot as hell and the asphalt gets soft but night and day diffrence in bass so much cleaner and deeper i havent done the roof yet if i do that will i notice i diffrence in bass or no??

So I have very limited knowledge on deadening. I am leasing my 2011 civic the road noise is pretty significant. I want a little more midbass from my doors and don't want to do a lot considering its a lease. Should I just do the door skins and not cover all the big holes incase I need to replace say a power window motor under warranty or something. I'm not wanting to deaden the entire car just front doors and maybe the trunk. I was also looking at dynamat extreme on ebay for what seems a good price. 18x32 roll for $25 you tell me if that's a deal or not. thanks

Hello just wanted some feedback on this product. Also wanted to see If anybody was running it in there vehicle. Bought the bulk box from Darvex which had a really good deal with free shipping. Just really tired of my whole car rattling terrible on the outside.

I'm looking at this for coating on my car's floor...anyone have anything they can tell me about it? it seems legit? I can get one gallon of it for $50 shipped that's why.

It worked for a short period of time. Really Nice. I had two layer on entire trunk lid. but as far as adhesive, its horrible. So would I recommend it?? HELLLLL NOOO lol I now have DynaMat Extreme sitting in my room. Here's a couple pictures of it falling off, it was worse than this, i pushed it back up though.

is it any good and what is it comparable too?

so my second skin came into day. 67 pound of HUSHHING furry lol. i got a bulk pack 36 SQFT of damplifier pro 4 sheets 36 SQFT of luxury liner pro maybe too much! and a pack of speaker tweekers ... started on it today.. lincoln doors are very hard to get in, only 1 small opening . i can say so far.. the damp pro goes on nicer then other products, is sticking well, and it looks good.. ok back to work!!

I have an opportunity to get a bunch of hushmat extremely cheap from a shop wanting to clear it out. Now, my question,is it any good? Normally, it is too expensive to consider over the other brands on here, but this is a good deal. I don't want to spend the money or time if the stuff does a poor job. I only want to deaden once.

Hey guys, I'm in the process of deadening my trunk and I have a question. I have (2) vents in both rear quarter panels just below the floor line of my trunk. I plan on applying deadener all around those vents, but should I apply it OVER the vents as well? I know these things are designed to relieve cabin pressure or whatever, but what should I do with them? Here is a pic:

i got a khaotic enclosure and i was going to put it in my trunk, but it wouldnt fit, so now im putting it in the back passenger side seat. the box is vertical with the port above the front passenger's head rest. i took the passenger rear seat out, and im putting a wood barrier where the seat back used to be. not sure what kind of wood to use tho. then im mounting my 4 channel amp to the back of the wood barrier. was going to put MLVB on the barrier and then closed cell foam on top. then some more closed cell foam on the bottom of the seat where there is just metal now, so the box wont vibrate against it. so am i going the right way with this sound deadening? and also what…

Uploaded with ImageShack.us What should I do with the back wall??? Do I remove the Grey stuff or soundproof under it? What products are indeal for this? I am going to be installing a single 10" sub in this truck Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I've been working with sound deadeners for years. I've tried everything that wasn't a true sound deadener all the way up to Dynamat Extreme, RaamMat BXT and Second Skin over the years and have seen, read and tried all sorts of application theories. I'm getting ready to tear into my JImmy and have been trying to consider the best course of action where the doors are concerned. Like the way Don and Aaron worked on Aaron's car and used the SDS products for a complete and total noise control system is my end goal. I have gathered quite a bit of CLD and CCF for the install and when the funds become available I'll be purchasing the MLV I need to complete it. What I'm tryin…

what can i do or use to reduce road noise i have a 2000 silverado single cab, and has a lowered suspension, so i hear everything from the road, also installed a flowmaster, and when going at 60, it bothers me enough that i sometimes cant hear the music thanks

Trunk rattle is probably the biggest issue for me as far as extraneous noise goes. This is probably true for quite a trunk-oriented bass setups out there. Anyways, I am trying to diagnose EXACTLY what is causing the noise. I have put padding in between the spoiler mounts and the trunk lid, so I am fairly certain it is not that spot. The license plate is padded and deadened, and the vibration continues even if it is removed. Now the back of the lid is hollow. could it be the panels rattling against each other? Would expanding foam in there solve this? The trunk is obviously padded against the weather stripping all the way around, so it seems unlikely that any of these spo…

So being on a budget I was looking for some affordable options for sound deadener. I found these: JC Whitney (Yes! JC Whitney) here: http://www.jcwhitney.com/ultra-silver-vibration-damping-floor/dash-kit/p2020613.jcwx?filterid=c2663j5 JC actually has quite a few variations. And bonus if I order before tomorrow night I have a 20% off coupon. Eastwood: http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-thermocoustic-material.html And also b-quiet.com Does anyone have any info on these products? Any good? The Ultimate stuff from b-quiet looks promising. In my current install I tried using the asphalt roof repair stuff with the aluminum backing from Lowes but it didn't seem to work all that w…

Im about to redo my dodge ram 1500. I will be tearing out all carpet, seats, etc and deadning as much as i can. Right now i just have dynamats on all 4 doors and my back walls. I maybe want to add to the doors with something just dont know what? I bought the speaker pad things that go behind the speakers in the door but that is all so far. For the floor i wanna out some deadner down at least and maybe some type of mat or something, can anyone give me some direction in these areas?

I was wondering how much deadner i would need for my truck and what is some good deadner for the $$$my budget is about 300 buck's...i wanna do the roof and the back door...

So I'm trying to sound deaden my moms 2009 or 10 (it's the newer body style) Honda CRV to kill road noise. She commutes 1-4 hours a day (mostly highway) and hates the road noise. This car is horrible! Ultimately she doesnt care about stereo or thermal insulation, she just wants a quieter ride. I was under the impression that the floor would make the biggest difference, so I used ~80 sq ft of damp pro on the entire floor, spare tire area, as high up on the firewall as I could get, and some on the back hatch. Also did the back quarterpanels I believe they are called (above the rear wheel wells) and stuffed the huge open cavities with several yards of fiberglass. The result…