Sound Deadening

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?t=1&products_id=53 What do you guys think? I was going to use it to deaden the inside of my door panel and maybe on some bare metal areas too. If this isn't worth my time then what else can I spray/apply to the inside of my door panel to make it a little more solid?

First time sound deadening. Doing the front doors, rear deck, trunk, and trunk lid of an 07 Altima. Got CLD tiles, MLV, CCF, and EBR from SDS. Did the trunk lid, top of rear deck, and the front doors so far (only half way done with the doors). Been taking pics along the way. Trunk lid, Top of rear deck, Doors, Speakers, Everything look good so far?

Is peel and seal a good alternative to dynamat or any other name brand sound deadener? It comes in 6"x25" rolls for less than 20$.

If the stuff comes on a roll is that a dead give away that it's asphalt based? Recently a new player has come on the market claiming butyl based sound deadener. Audio Technix is the place. Their claim is a 60mil thick sound deadener / 4mil aluminum with butyl adhesive, Their introductory offer seems good, but their stuff comes on a roll. Should I stay away? Thanks.

72 sq foot total http://img821.imageshack.us/g/17294310150098226119344.jpg/

I have an 02 gmc extended cab truck. Im currently running two AQHDC3 10s powered by an saz3000d and will be installing a sax100.4 later. Right now im getting lots of roof flex and rattling. Was curious which I should get if only running the amount of said power? Also how many layers and where.

Hey, I sent an email around octoberish about deadening my 08 scion xb but never received a reply. I don't know if the email got lost or what. I rechecked the address and it was the same as what everyone says to reach you at. If there is a better way to contact you about sds products just let me know. Hope to hear from you as these xcons are doing some work on my car.

hey guys. i have a 99 dodge durango and i cant seem to stop the rattle from it. i now have heavy duty foam inside the gate and still rattles over the top of the bass

So after installing my Cs60CF, I could not believe how bad the woofers sound It sounds as if they were distorting, and thats with all EQs off, no bass boost or anything. So I talked to denim and we concluded it could be the doors. They are not deadened. I just replaced factory speakers and place the new ones (i know, i know, but i didnt think it was gonna sound this bad). So I came to the conclusion that to enjoy my midbass and not have to lower the 125hz band to -3, I need to (just learned this) seal the doors. Seriously, my midbass is dead cause I cant rise the volume or else the woofers will start to sound nasty, kinda distorted. Even with EQ on flat. I always have to …

I've always just wonderd this, what would happen, or what effect would it have to put sound deadening or Mass Loaded Vinyl inside of your box? I know it sounds stupid, but just curious I guess lol

So now that I have a little bit of extra money I want to put this in to sound deadening. First up is I want is that I want to do the door panels. So what I need is the CLD tiles right? After that I notice the install Aaron did in the SSA Mazda I want something like that I want it to block of road noise and make the car drive like a luxury car. So can anyone guide me in the right direction that i need to make my car quieter?

Going to attempt to install it myself. I'll take pics with my new camera of the progress.

tonight I was able to deaden 3layers on my rear deck and 2 layers on the rear seat (where the seat sites) and 2 layers in the trunk itself. now my question is since i am nearly 100% sure i only have enough deadener to completely deaden one thing, which thing should i deaden first? either the back doors and the trunk lid or the roof? which would be of more benefit and why? see i want to get 1 good layer of deadener on the roof and then a second layer if i have enough left over BUT if i do the back doors 3lay thick or 2layers and the trunk lid i know i will not have enough left to do the room my car is a 95 grand am the sub and port is firing forward into the cabin and th…

Hello, I have a 2007 Mazda 3 with stock everything. Have yet to make a change but I'm planning on it in the future. My main problem is when i turn up the volume, my door panels rattle around a lot. This is one thing I hate about the car. The doors feel really light and cheap. Anyways, this is a stock system, no subwoofer, bass on h/u is on 0 but when i turn up the volume the speakers cause my door panels to rattle. What type of application would help stop all of this rattling? Do I just need to roll on some deadener on the door? Do I need to remount my speakers outside of the door panel? Just need a little advice to make this rattling stop. Thanks.

After googling around and not having any luck I decided to post here because of the "vibration control" topic in this forum. I would like to mount my amplifier on the back of my box without rattling it to death. I have looked at some youtube videos ( and it looked like he has only a mdf board between his amp and box. I was looking and found several things on the net but lots of them are expensive:Silicone Anti-Shock mats Rubber Screws Anti - Shock pads Anti vibration mats I do have some of the foam they use to sound deaden recording studios so I was thinking just putting three or four mats of that sandwiched between either a soft or hard piece of wood to mount my amp on…

I'm going to be firing my subs and port forward and sealing off the trunk from the cabin. So far, I only have my front doors and trunk lid deadened. I only bought 36 sq ft of dynamat extreme (I live 5 minutes from the factory, gotta support them haha), what should I deaden primarily first? Because I'm sealing off from the trunk, do I even need to deaden anything in the trunk?

I was just wondering if it is ok to use that rubberized undercoating stuff that comes in a can for the inside of speaker boxes? If it is possible to use would I benefit from it? I'm not looking to but if I do thats fine, I really just want to seal up any "potential" leaks and make sure it won't hurt.

Good morning ladies! I just wanted to inform you that I am now a proud owner of B-Stock CLD Tiles straight from Don @ SDS.... I skipped using the forum since I had some random questions for him... (a/s/l) kind of stuff... Not really? Anyway, so I ordered a bunch and if all goes well I will be not only doing my 2003 Camry but the lady's 2010 Honda as well... Give it some quietness... I will post some pictures when I receive my packages.. Another thing I'd like to mention, Don is awesome... Mentioned my license plate problems on the trunk lid and he immediately got back to me and offered a sample CCF for the plate to create a barrier between the two metals... What an amazi…

Whats up???? has anyone heard of audio barrier? If so is the stuff any good cause its soo much cheaper than the other dampening companies out there. if you have any info id like to know thanks.

Okay so for those of you who don't know what vehicle I have, It's a 1997 2door jeep wrangler hardtop. The hardtop is made of polycarbonate, plastic, something you get the idea. So it flexes a good bit and wanted to hear what you guys would suggest for fixing it. Would cld tiles soak up some of the flex? just trying to brace the plastic so my sound output isn't wasted Heres some pics:

Just seeing if I'm the only one who would love to have Don (SDS) have his own dedicated forum.

I purchased an Atrend 12dq dual sealed enclosure, 1.25 ft3 per sub, .75" thick MDF, miter joint and dado groove. supposedly one of the best built prefabs you can get and seems to be true from inspection. Though i plan to get a couple of subs that are optimized for 1.25 sealed, probably w6.2's. I was testing it out with a W3v3 JL sub and i noticed....just like every other sub box i have ever used or built, when hand placed on box, i can feel some vibration. In the past, i used to coat the interior with fiberglass, truck bed liner..etc, whatever i could think of that would lessen it, but i'm not sure if it really helps the sub or not...i never really did a side by side comp…

i completely removed everything behind the front seats to get ready to put in some damplifier pro and found out my trunk already had some pieces of sound deadener that came from the factory. i was just wondered if it would be better to remove it or just place the damplifier pro on top of it?

Some weeks ago I bought a sheet of Dynamat Extreme (4sq feet) to check out if it really helped about the rattling. I knew 4sq feet was pretty much small, i couldn't even fill half of my trunk lid, but I just wanted to know if it really does a difference. (Im short on my budget haha) I thought it did, because at this time I was using my sealed box, but when I put back my ported box, rattling was horrible. When I say horrible, I mean that I set my sound as little as 5-6 (there is little to no bass inside my car, even if the rear seat is opened) and my trunk lid actually rattle... I know ported box causes air displacement because of the port, which causes more rattling, but…

I recently primered my chevy nova's hatchback trunk lid with one coat of primer just so it wouldnt have a yellow trunk and primered body. I was wondering how would I prep the underside of the lid with acetone if it removes paint/primer? I hope this isnt a stupid question haha i just couldnt find the answer anywhere else.