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2,677 topics in this forum
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Sorry i lolo. Badly I know English, I use the translator. Excuse, if that that not so has told. Help to make the case (in centimeter) for SA-12 working from SAZ-1500 on 2Оm. The box with slot-hole port on 31Гц is necessary. How such to make?
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Why not Atomic apxx18s? These things can handle the power and are insane! These can handle 5000wrms all day long. APXX18 Or APX18
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Ignore this post, go to the other one: Double post accident due to dial-up!
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Wondering when you guys expect the BTL backorder to be filled and shipped? Maybe its already done I don't know ha just seeing what the overheads looking like. Thanks
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Will do. As far as specs. Sub is in a ported 2.5 cuFT box, alpine mrd1000 amp with stock electrical system. Amp worked fine on replacement sub. Amp gain is all the way down. Ive only had the sub for 6 months or so. did you pull the sub and check connection, and put a dmm on the coils?
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Indeed, trying to stick w/ those for production. The re-cones are RE parts and they don't use that style cone.
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PM send, So what do you think julian is around $650 enough for a reasonable system, including the HU? And the mtx at my first post are they any good? They are only around 60 bucks so atleast the price is good. Or what subs do you recommend, including an amp? Because i cant figure out what amp i need with a sub. (If you got two 350w rms subs (4 ohm), do you need an amp with 4 ohm 700w rms x 1ch. or 350w rms x 2ch. or doesnt it work this way?) I think im gonna go for these subwoofers: http://www.rondevries.nl/index.php?page=producten_bekijken/detail.php&product_nr=17960&hoofdgroep=8&subgroep=120 But what amp do you recommend to go with 2 of these? Is this one …
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Yup. I just don't see the infatuation with wanting to modify production drivers. Some ideas may sound great in your head. I think the design engineer knows best though. . nG
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Still have some b-stock Nightshades here!
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At least you understood that clearly! And just for the record, I've had systems in my car since I was 17yrs old and never have I purchased any of the products i'm "boycotting"....I did have a Power HX2 12" for a while but that was only due to me trading 2 MTX 10's for it. But beyond that, I've never owned any of the aforementioned products, and it's not like they're the only one's that make decent products in the car audio world. But anyways, i'm done speaking on the subject, it is what it is. Carry on...
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how is the outside of the sax100.2 refurb that is 185, cant really tell by pic.
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what enclosure size would you recommend for the Konaki hybrid?? Nevermind...didn't see that they were dual 1 ohm. All I have is a Nine.1 so .5 ohm isn't an option
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What is your definition of "better"? something superior in quality or condition or effect; "a change for the better"
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NO spamming!
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Yep.
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Yea flared aero ports are fine, just make sure you have enough port area. Which/what driver(s) are you using? box volume?
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Awful thats what that is... just awful.
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Still 2 left.$710 ea shipped in the 48 states with Paypal.$690 ea shipped in the 48 states by money order.$655 ea local pickup (Denton, Frisco, Lewisville, TX) with cash.$1400 for both shipped in the 48 states with Paypal.$1360 for both shipped in the 48 states by money order.$1290 for both local pickup (Denton, Frisco, Lewisville, TX) with cash.
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The slopes are 24db's on the RF Power amps, but he doesnt need to run the amp, and hu crossover though right. He should just use the crossover on the amp since the slope is already 24 db, and he can turn his gain back up too right to maybe 3/4 of the way. My Kenwood has 4v preouts and I have my gain just up above 1/4 of the way and my sub volume on +9 out of -15 to +15. I know JL slash amps have balanced differential inputs I rarely had to turn the gain up on it to get good output and it sounded alot louder than 500 watts. I miss that amp. bakedboy I'm glad you started to figure it out, now you can let that sub tear your car apart.
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BudhFVnN2o0
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