General Audio

Allright so within the next month I will be ordering an FI BL 12 to put in my 98 mustang gt, I currently have a soundstream tx1.2000D mono block amp to power the BL. Also I will be running it at 1ohm, do you think the BL will be able to handle the watts or should I keep the amp around 1000-1500? Any feedback is appreciated. Just want to know your thoughts

Not going to let the cat out of the bag yet but.....why would I need springs that can handle 780lbs each in the back of my Taurus???? Hmmmmm I wonder???? pic 1 pic 2

Hey everyone, just wondering...everyone is posting garbage jamz for their systems on youtube...but I want ppl to represent 'Real' speaker jamz for their demos...not that young geezy, trippple six mafia 'CRAP' my question is.... can I post some 'excellent' 'to listen to' demo jamz on this forum... everyone plays the same 'lame' jammyz... I want to offer original Bass Muzak from the MIA that will kill that stereotype. let me know if its cool to post them here in there entirety. Thnks, DJ Freddy Fred (Miamistyle)

well i was messing around with the amp and i had only one of the L5 subs on hmm bass bust XD, after 1 minute i smelled something weird "it smells like chicken no wait its the sub" so after turning it down i found out that got blown now i ask is there any recone kit for them or the sub its done already i kind of got them for free so no sad feelings. i live in san antonio maybe i can take it to a shop i dont feel like spending 80 on shipping thats worth more than the sub oppps sorry place this in wrong area

im getting 2 skar 12's soon and i was wondering if someone can make me some box plans? i want a ported box tunes to 32hz and about 3.5 cubic feet after displacements.i will get max measurements tomorrow since its night time and its raining/snowing right now.

I have looked around and seen a system I would like to get rigged up. It's 2 Alpine SWR-1222D's powered by a Hifonics 1606D wired in at 2ohms in a 3ft^ ported enclosure tuned to 35hz.??? Im a little iffy about the box. It sounds like it would be good to me. Thanks in Advance ~MadroX

With the sale on Flatline amplifiers, it's hard not to resist asking if upgrading is worth it... I currently have a Soundqubed 1200.1 powering my SSA Icon 15 d2 in a sealed 2.6 ft^3 box. Will there be any noticeable difference in loudness? Will this amp provide enough headroom in case I purchase another Icon 15 in the future? Any information would be helpful since there isn't much data on these amps. Thank you

My soft top Jeep wrangler has been burglarized 4 times now at my crappy apartment complex. The thieves have never stolen anything valued over $30 but I'm tired of feeling violated. I know there are some shop owners and installers here, what are you guys thinking? All my car audio stuff is bolted/chained down; I'm looking for a very basic alarm with door open sensor and some kind of proximity alarm for when the doors are off so the thug/piece of human filth hears the alarm and runs off without rummaging through my stuff. I have a manual transmission and no power door locks or windows so I'm not interested in paying for anything high end, but I do like quality. …

I have a 15 Fi Bl fully loaded. I have a Kicker ZX1500.1 amp to power it and 4 gauge stinger wire w/ 150amp in-line fuse. Several weeks ago i was bumpin around town, and my sub quit. I sent it in to Fi and they fixed it for me. (they never said, b/c they covered it under warranty, but i think they just reconed it) so i put it back in and have everything hooked up, but now when i turn the volume up to where i like it, it just doesn't do anything. a few notches down and it does fine, i would like to run it at 28, but it will only go on 25. (max volume 34) but when it quits, the green light is still on, and if i turn it back down it will hit again. sometimes it will hit an o…

im planning to build 4 15" RE SRX on a toyota 1983 corolla DX.. the car is very small, and for me to fit them is to build a wall.. the car was used for racing and is in pretty bad shape.. so what i did to make fit the 4 15" was to make a new flat form for the boxes to stand on.. a new rear wall to have a flat surface.. now im building the box for the 4 15s.. the problem is. the car its self is pretty small.. and for me to build an independent box for the each 15 and go ported i need a bigger space but it seems i can only get 1.8 cubic ft. for each 15s. so i plan to go sealed on the 15s 2 subs in one common chamber.. what would cause these subwoofers to have cancellation? …

when i think about the next setup i want, I just dont know what i want because i listen to a lot of double bass and rap. Is there a type of enclosure that has acoustically accurate response appropriate for rock but also has the ability to get low? low meaning like 30 hertz ish. Haven't heard many ported setups other than my own on rock, and they always sound like shit compared to a sealed box. But I don't actually know if its because of my box, or because its an spl sub, etc. anyone have any advice? EDIT: I'm talking about subs just incase anybody didnt realize this

So in the future, about spring time, I am going to be upgrading to 2-15" NS in my car powered by 2-SAZ2000 strapped amps. So I will be pushing about 4000rms at 2ohm and now i am looking at which batteries to purchase. Here are the 2 which i found, either 2- XS2700 or 2- kinetik hc2400. My question to you is what would you use? XS or Kinetik? the price for the 2700 and hc2400 are about the same, on ebay and ssa. i am leaning towards the XS myself. but i have LOTS of time to think about it! please feel free to make some suggestions to other batteries but please keep in mind space limitations of 13"x6.7". I will get accurate measurements on Wednesday. Kenneth And please fee…

ok so what is box rise and how will it effect me? thanks

I have a question, it might sound stupid but i've been wondering about it for a while. its about a damplified trunk versus one that isnt. Of course, when a sub makes a sound (namely bass) in a trunk that isnt so sturdy, or the subs just hit really hard, it makes a rattling. Does the sound (bass) that is emitted from the trunk rattle, actually lost bass? Like the sound is converted into that shitty noise rather than transfering into the cabin, and hearing a more pleasant bass? And if a trunk gets damplified (thats just the wording i use ), the dampening mat does a job of stopping that noise, but does it just do that? What i mean is, it'll stop the rattle, but will the bass…

so i got 2 12ssd and a sundown 1500d coming, and i was wondering if anyone knew a good shop in houston tx to take it to for install?????

How much would two Havoc 12s run me? And what would the best amp for my money be if i do end up getting them?

I should have no problems with BASS. But I`m worried about Mid Bass - punchyness. I do not want to use huge door builds & they will never sound right anyway. So I plan to use 4x 10" or 8" subs. To help the system sound better / seem more punchy - quick I`ll be feeding them about 250wrms each. So should I do this or what`s the best way to do it? BTW: I`m aiming for the system to play music @ 150dB+ 16 Cu.Ft. Box. Ported using 4x S.I. 15" Magnums. Thanks guys.

For those of you waiting for some news and new products, there you are: http://blog.sounddomain.com/gadget/

So this guy mentions he has been using it for 3 years of something... just looked them up... Ever heard of these guys?? http://www.optionaudio.com/index.php

Basicly, Im starting from scratch. Active. I need some good info on which speakers I may need. It will be a 2way. With 6.5/7s and small format tweets. I need a "good" h/u that can go active. Im sorta on a budget, not a tight one, but not anything OVER 1 grand. Cheaper teh better. Lets see what we come up with.

pretty amp for sure, anywho just saw this guy on a private auction site for under $50 tested working, cosmetically it's almost 100%. I wouldn't use this amp myself, but would It be worth to resell and make a quick buck? only results I really saw for this amp for sale privately was a post on diy selling it for roughly $300, and everyone said post it on european ebay and you could get way more for it... is this amp really that damn nice? i know older diamond audio is nice, but over $300 for a used 4 channel 400watt amp?

Can you guys help me out I want a better system some 15s I was thinking 2 of the z 4s with a saz3500 idk how that would work I want to spend 3 grand I already have wiring kit and head unit.

seen this http://www.shockeraudio.net/products.html on PWK forums and had to share! Hopefully their as good as the OG sigs.

I recently had my blazer broken into, had my FI Q's stolen along with the rest of my setup. Found some RE SR's on craigslist for a good price, so I picked 'em up, and got an autotek ss1000.1d to push them. My '06 civic has a really strange dash, and I was wondering what kind of power and sound quality losses I would suffer if I kept it stock instead of installing my Alpine CDA-9883. Also, I was wondering if anyone had any help as to what LOC would give me the least unwanted noise, and how much it would cost to have one professionally installed by a local car audio shop directly to my rear speakers.

About a year ago I bought my first subs which were just cheap Duals from Best Buy. I am still using them today, but in a box I built for them. The box was actually made for two 10" FI Q's and I just put the 2 12" Duals in them temporarily, but I never got around to upgrading so the Duals stayed. Now I'm looking at more options, but deciding to go a slightly different route. I figure a decent sub with the right install would sound a ton better than what I have now, so that's what I'm looking for. I don't have an exact budget in mind, but I'm basically looking for the best bang for my buck. I don't want to spend too much by buying a really power hungry sub, along with a lar…