General Audio

just as it states. i wanna wall off wanna of my lincolns. lemme hear it.

im finnally goin back home friday, and i really need some help finding a place to put in my fi ssd 12s n my saz 1500 please.

Hey Jon. I want to order all my new equipment today or tomorrow but i wanted to make sure it will all fit and hookup properly i have a few questions if you knew just quick answers to any that would help alot. Setup: (2) 15" FI BL (2) Saz1500 (1) 1 trunk battery (suggestions would be great) Here's the questions... - I can only fit around 7.3 cubes before displacement so it'll come down to just under 7cubes.. This should be enough airspace since its within the recommendations of FI 3-4cubes each. (2) 6" aeroports is what i'm aiming for In order to prevent further displacement I'm considering adding a baffle to the outside of the enclosure. - Will this be a sufficient am…

Got a few questions about my setup before i order everything so help would be appreciated. In order to prevent further displacement I'm considering adding a baffle to the outside of the enclosure. - Will this be a sufficient amount of support for the sub vs a baffle on the interior? - When using Psp.com's calculator for aeroports it asks to input "Volume of Box in Cubic Feet" is this before or after all displacements? - Can someone provide a link for instructions or a diagram on how i am supposed to wire under hood batter>trunk battery>amps - How should i wire the (2)saz1500's to (2)FI BL Dual 1 looking to get the whole 1500w to each sub individually? - Suggest a b…

So just got out of my car. Recently just installed my powermaster battery and finally had my sub turned back on. As i was driving my front left tweeter started to just sing static. The words from the song sounded like a DJ was trying to scratch it for real. I have a pioneer 9800 headunit and was thinking maybe my preouts went bc i heard that was a problem. I havent checked the main connections like amp output or even the headunits preouts yet. I will tmw in the morning. Just curious what people think. Thanks

i bought a fully loaded Fi BTL 18", dual 1 ohm I have a 1ohm stable amp. Hifonics Bx1605d for the moment until i buy my sundown 3000. How do i wire the sub at 1 ohm? probably a newb question, i know and im sorry but i searched a while and couldnt find anything. sorry i am just confused and dont have anyone near me who can do it or tell me with out charging. i am new-ish to the car audio thing but i know how to do most of it. Only 17. please give me some pointers or a link to somewhere to give me a hand or something to make sure i do this rite. Thanks in advance!!! Nofear.

Got a party pack in the mail today 2-Loaded Fi BTL12s (dual 1ohm) 4-Mach5 MLI-65s (6.5" midbass woofer) 4-Dayton 4" full range speakers (midrange/front bandpass) 4-Kenwood 0.75" Silk Dome tweets (front high) lol, bare with my ashy ass hands....I just got off of work, so dont trip. Soon to come: Rockford T40001BD, (2) T4004's, a 230amp dB Starter alternator, (1)Deka Intimidator 9A78DT deep cycle under the hood and (2)Deka Intimidator 9A31's in the rear.

I'm looking for the best way to make the audio inside quieter on the outside. if that makes sense... I want to isolate the sound so with the windows up you cant hear the music playing inside as easily. Right now im trying to focus on the midrange as that seems to be the "worst". I currently have the midrange in the stock location with damp covering 95% of both door panels. Right now im building door pods but the midrange is still going to be IB so that should help somewhat but not as well as a sealed pod. Do you think adding second skin overkill to the outer door panel would help at all? any other ideas?

i posted this before, but the place that was suggested to me, Inovative Rides, is closed down. i have a saz 1500 and 2 12 fi ssd, and am lookin for a good shop to install them in the houston area. thanx in advance for any help

I'm trying to make a list of things I need to get and/or do. I'm going to do the big 3, upgrade my battery,and already got a HU. Okay I have a 15" fi BL, if anyone could point me to some spec of a box with good SPL that would be very helpful. I've aslo got a RF 1500-1bd so would I need 1 or 2 batteries for it all.Could I use one battery to run my car and the system with no dimming of my lights? My alternator is stock, but I don't know much about them so how many amps would be good? I'm putting it all in a 99' Jeep Grand Cherokee. Thanks in advance.

ok im probably just being dumb but i tried searching and no answer. I have 2 subs and one 4 channel amp. my question is how do i wire them? i have everything connected however im confused as to how i should wire the subs to the amp. do i put them as front or back? also i dont know if i should plug the RCA cables into the front or back. i tried messing around with different options and i get mixed results. for some reason whether the subs are wired to the front of back it doesnt matter where the RCA cables are plugged in. now heres the problem, only one of the subs seem to be working. the other one will barely work but just sounds muffled. when the one that does…

the other day with ecromeans i noticed my voltage was low... so today i went for a ride and i got in my car and my voltage was 11.5, with my a/c headlights and stereo on low. i put in in gear with my foot on the break and i dip to 10 volts... o no. i fliped a bitch and went back home.. i poped my hood and manualy triped my breaker, then my voltage jumped up to 13.8 with my lights on and the radio on low.. i checked my conections to all my cells.. thay were all tight... i reset myt breaker and i dip back down to 11. volts.... any one got any other ideas? the only thing i can see is one of my three cells are bad... or my h/o alt is going out.

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=324604 yah so i have been keeping it a secret that tommyk was gonna be running my van for this season. well he went down to my house to test it some to make sure everything was working. i had just got the new windshield put in the same day. i cant afford to keep replacing windshields everytime i burp it. its a sad day for me ive lost alot of money on this van. but im willing to move the van on to someone that is willing to give it a try. already know it can do mid 150s on music i just want to do 59.9 bassrace and this van wont let me. if u want to do 49.9 this van would be great cuz u dont need alot of power to do …

Ok I just got my fi bl 18 and we have it hooked up to a hifonics bxi1606 and it is ran by a pioneer deh 5900, but anyway it worked good when i first got it 2 days ago, then it started making a weird noise and stopped working. Then after we took the whole thing apart and couldn't find the problem we put it back together and it magically started working again. Then today it stopped again. We took the whole thing apart and the amp still works and the sub isnt blown, and it isn't the auxiliary. Idk we've been messing with it for like 4 hours and the only thing i could think of is that a door speaker is messing up or the rem wire is messing up. Any help much appreciated, Mike…

Rite now I'm in the middle of the install of my Clarus 61-2 component set. I have a pre-existing hole from the other tweeter, which is where the C1 will be flush mounted. Since the C1 doesn't have the "screw on" flush mount option like the type-r had I have to some how secure the tweeter. Scott recommended me hot gluing but it was difficult because it dried too fast and it basically cracked and peeled apart, (plastic on plastic) (maybe i used the wrong hot glue?) I also tried using Epoxy Putty but it didn't work well either. Any recommendations and ideas would be greatly appreciated! Thanks, -Mike

hey guys, anyone know how deep the slits should be cut on a mdf flare port to get it to bend? And what should I use to strenghten it back up afterwards? thanks

Looks pretty damn good! http://xtant.com/Products.aspx

My 10'' bl came in today and I couldn't wait to hear how my box turned out. Here's a picture of what it looks like: The box is roughly 1.15@33hz with a 3'' aeroport. But when the lower bass notes (in rap) were played, there was a very distinct "slapping" noise coming from inside the port to the beat of the bass. Is this considered port noise? Or could it be that one of the wires inside the enclosure is too long and is hitting the side of the box/sub? Or could it be a leak somewhere? It is very noticeable, especially because it is behind the seats in a reg cab pickup and the port is firing up right behind your head.

I am looking to buy a new car and I have a question for anyone who knows, or has experience with what subwoofers sound like in a convertible. The car I am looking to buy is a 1997 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs and I was wondering if subwoofers would be worth putting in. I know that is waaaay too broad of a question because everyone has different definitons of sound quality and volume, but I would just like some opinions maybe from people who have put subwoofers in a convertible before.

If I want to have 1 battery for my electrical system and one for my audio, how do I split the two batteries from the alternator? Split them from alternator into both batteries separately (and then into the capacitor or parrelel to the 2-3-4 car battery)? I don't want the audio system to pull from the cars electrical system.

hello, I was trying to see where I could purchase 1 inch mdf fiberboard and how much per sheet? thankds

This first part is how having the correct crossover makes a world of difference in how a subwoofer setup sounds. When I first set up my amp for my new sub I put the crossover on 80 hz because I had heard that was the general concensus for a decent starting position. I left it there for a few years and I figured everything was good. Then I think one day last year I got bored and just played around with my front stage, seeing if I would want a 3 way setup or something. Sometime during that I turned my crossover up to 100 hz on my sub and forgot about it. A year passed and I hadn't really noticed it until lately I played some Crystal Method and I was like man, my sub su…

I've been looking at posts lately of people putting 8's in there doors and have noticed that pretty much everyone seems to glass the door panel and mount the speaker to the door panel. Can the door panel be made strong enough to handle 200W of 8" midbass pounding away and not really leak around its edges?

I'm in the process (literally, just came upstairs to ask this question haha), and i was fitting my marine terminals to my battery. I'm not sure if its a problem, but they don't go down all the way, and even if they could, the bolt wouldn't be able to go through because the holes for it would be so curved. When i bolted it down, it wasn't going anywhere, i'm not worried about that. I'm just not sure if it has to be at the very bottom for the least resistance and best flow So can i leave as is? or should i get new terminals (though i didn't see any bigger than what i have now).

I have a good offer on one of these. It seems to be a good amp but im not sure. To be honest i have never heard of it before. My set up is going to be only 1 Dual 1 ohm Fully loaded Fi BTL 18". My problem is i bought the Dual 1 option because i thought that i may get another in the future and with that i could have them wired at 1 ohm and be able to find a amp for a bit cheaper to give them power. what i didnt think of was the amp i was going to use in the time being... i need the minimum of 2000rms at either 0.5 ohm or 2 ohms and this amp does 2000 at the 2 ohms... Anyone have experience or anything i should know about this amp... i saw a reveiw of a different amp from a…