General Audio

Hey guys, I'm kinda new to here, can't poet in the f/s section yet. SO please don't delete, I'm a honest guy. I have %100 percent positive feedback on caraudiocentrsl.net, I 've been around there since 2004. So I'm bored and wanna change my sub setup. As the title say I have a RE SX 18, like new only a few hours use, you can't tell its not new. I'm either looking at a ssa 15 or 2 ssa 12's. Just becuase I think it kniks ass they ffinally got there own speaker line, every car audio junkies dream . SO my new brainstorm is either 10+ of there tang band 8's 38.88 a piece nice, check em out - http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cf...6726637#reviews - Just throwin thi…

Just thought I'd share the RE group buy going on. http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=84160 This is what David from RE wrote. The group buy for Caraudio.com/Soundillusions.net will begin on Monday Jan 31st and run through Friday Feb 18th. The group buy consists of (prices include shipping in the continental US only): RE Component Set $129 RE8 $37 RE10 $42 RE12 $47 XXX6.5 $179 (pair) Plus if you buy $100 of the above "group buy" products you will be eligible for 15% of any of our other RE Audio products purchased at the same time (not including the initial group buy items). Example: Buy a set of the RE Comps for $129 (meeting the $100 minimum) and get an extra 1…

Doing this for a guy on CA.com. Going into an Envoy with charcoal gray interior & woodgrain trim, so I'm trying to match it up, but I've never seen the vehicle. 9^3 @ 35Hz with 106^2 of port. Sub will fire up. Double baffle, window bracing, and 45's in the corners. Some dummy got ahead of himself and started painting before doing the sub cut out. Wooden rings will extend port openings and surround sub.

i am new to building boxes and would like to know, about how accurate is the re box tool? I made a pretty nice little box tuned to 35 HZ and have no clue how accurate this tool is, so it would be good to know beforehand. thanks

How are the RE SR's? i have 4 that i want to put in my 97 S-10 Blazer. My whole system was just stolen. i bought 4 because that's all they had. i intend to do 8 all together. Ported to 35Hz as they suggest. I had 4 Pioneer ts-w306 DVC's and that was LOUD. I want to be louder than that. I went with 10's because the sound cleaner and i can do more of them so the "show" factor will be a little better. And EVERYONE in Lansing Has "4 12's" and i wanted to be different and do 8 10's So what do you think? decent subs? i hope :/

Will it do rated if not what will it do? Is it worth 200?

Hi, anyone who experienced these symptoms? * speakers are 6.5in. woofer and 1 inch tweeter, sometimes the left woofer stops playing while the tweeter is good. They're properly wired in their crossover. The woofer comes back whenever I adjust the volume at high level. * At high volume level, it sounds like you're playing the wire connection of the woofer, it's on..and it's off.. and on. * There are instances that the right woofer has the same problems too. * And sometimes the tweeter on the left channel stops too I already checked every connection and they're properly terminated. What could be the problem here? separates are RE XXX6.5c amp is Sundown SAX100.2 Help

I am not at all satisfied with my current mids and highs, they are just loud enough to be heard over the BTL, but they sound horribly stressed and weak in comparison. I wanted to put a pair of 8's in my front doors, and some new tweeters up on the pillar or the dash; before I look into getting pods made for my doors, has anyone had any luck fitting 8's in the doors of a Blazer/Bravada/Jimmy ? i'd like to keep it simple, at least til it's warmer out.

Hi all, longtime lurker, first time poster. I'm not new to car audio, but I am new to this forum. I have an issue with my system setup, basically that there isn't much bass over the factory premium audio system. It's a long post so bear with me. I am trying to get a similar output to the systems I've had in the past but am coming up short. My previous system was in a 2007 Grand Prix. It had a Kenwood Excelon headunit with sub out, two PPI Art series amps (an A300 running the highs @ 2ohms and an A600 bridged to 4ohms to run the subs), the highs were a pair of 6 3/4"s in the front doors and a pair of 6x9s in the rear deck- all the high speakers were Kenwoods, and a pair …

I have a friend in the Navy who is single and has money to burn. He needs some boom in his Explorer (he's my co-admin over at fordexplorer.net). I suggested to him RE XXX 15's, whatever amp denim told me to buy, probably RE components too in the according sizes. I'd like to see what some of you guys who live and breathe this stuff have to say because denim isn't on aim ever any more

I am having major issues with my rear doors opening about 3/4 inch every time my bass hits. It's actually starting to dent the jams and chip the paint. On top of that it is loud and I can't figure out a way to solve this issue since I need the doors to remain functional. Any ideas or input would be greatly appreciated.

What do I have to consider about the box design and sub placement and bracing to have the ports on the rear of the box? The reason I ask cause subs would be side and there wouldnt be too much room for the ports if they went next to the outsides of the subs in my trunk. Also are there any benefits to a single chamber push pull ported box? Downsides? What if in the same box, the speakers are on opposite planes- one in back, one in front? I cant find ANYTHING like this on this on google and want to know why.

The glue or whatever has loosened and the window moves perhaps a millimeter either way and rattles super bad. Discovered basshead radio on iOS yesterday. How can I resucure the window? It does not have to be pretty. My hatch window is spray foamed in place. 98 mountaineer (explorer)

Just wandering how many people have broken off their mirror due to flex issues

hey guys, building a new box for my 18" btl, as the old one wasnt done right and was my first build so yeh, here are the specs, just wanted to run them by you guys before I go off and start. cheers

Hi, I'm a new member and need your help. I have my extreme SQ system all planned out and just need to make the connections between everything. My budget for wire is about $1000 and $1500 for RCA cables. I want the really good SQ ones so my amps can really deliver well. I don't want to loose any of my SQ along the way. Please recommend the best withing my budget and post links if you have them. Oh, and here's my system: Dual HU (with the enhansed dolphin backflip mod) Pyle 7-way 6x9 coaxials (x6) Rampage 18" Superslammer 2000's (x4) in a 26cuft ported tuned to 19hz Audison Thesis HV Venti (x2) ~ fronts and rear doors, vertically biamped Brax Graphic 2000.2 (x2) ~ brid…

I am planning to utilize the space under the rear bench of a boat for a sub for listening in open space. I would like to get the most punch with this volume and I'm looking for recommendations. My overall goal is a balance between loud efficient bass and a decent flat response for bass frequencies suitable for most kinds of music. After MDF board thickness, I have an internal space of 3.5 cubic feet to work with. Since this is a boat installation, I assume that it would be advisable to consider an enclosure designed for home use as they are better suited for open space for this application. If I went with two RL-p12's, each would have 1.75 cubic feet available volume. If …

I recently purchased a new car, one that I would actually be proud to put some money into and I am looking into buying some subwoofers for some extra thump when it comes to my car's audio system. I am on a tight budget knowing I am a college student. I would not mind having two subwoofers, but I know that would be extra money, so even just one sub with an amp would make me very happy. Does anyone have any recommendations for a good sub and amp. I dont need top of the line equipment, I just want a sub with some good sound that wont hurt my pocketbook too much. Thanks guys!

Hey guys, my friend asked me if i can install his first aftermarket car audio system. It consists of a 12" jl audio w3v2 single 4ohms in a ported box about 1.75cubicft tuned 35hz. Powering it is a quantum audio 2000w monoblock @ 4ohms. Car is a 2010 chevy cruze. He doesnt want to upgrade his headunit, so the only option is a line out converter. Im not too familiar with these and wanted to know if anyone here has had experience and can refer me to a good one? There are so many out there and i really dont want to mess this up for my buddy.i see the ones on sonicelectronix.com. im thinkin about picking one of those but before i do, there might be one thats on another site? T…

what amp should i use to run 6 tweeters by clarion, i have a 2 channel amp to run to of them but iwant to get louder, and i have the battery power to run the beasts, so suggestions anyone.

Wondering is anyone knows the recommended enclosure for 2 Digital Designs 3500 10's

Trying to run 2 zcon 12's with a crescendo bc5500 at .5 ohm. Im not sure if the site numbers are gross or net, but what would be a good size box?

I have done some searching and can't seem to find a post anywhere that addresses what people like to listen to during the setup of their front stage--not the subwoofer. What CD's or tracks do you guys prefer for setting up the angles of your front speakers and to generally test the imaging and staging of your setup?

Hi fellas, I am aquiring an 18 Nightshade that needs to be reconed. My question is, does the recone kit come with the glue and shims? If not where can I get them. I thought I'd post this since Jacob has been so busy. Thanks guys!

Alright well im going to be getting 2 18" FI BTL's reconed(The older version) and was wondering what kinds of new options I can get like diff dustcap or diff tinsels stuff like.....that Id want carbon fiber if posssible and also what are the prices on diff options...any tips on packing for shipping?