General Audio

So today I wire my 0 gauge power to my distro block to wire my amp my amp shows power, the remote does not show anything and for a kick i have no power to my sub. I've tried several subs now and nothing happens. I've tried every possible wiring scheme and still absolutely nothing. i am so pissed at AQ unless there is some secret setting in my pioneer I forgot to change that will unleash the power I think I got a bad amp. Is there anything that I may be forgetting or any tips anyone could give to keep me from blowing up on AQ? ;( it's an aq1200d that i'm dealing with and its wired to a RE SX12

Just scooped a '98 Mountaineer this morning. Has the 5.0, it's AWD; feels good to be off the shoelace express Plans are a singer 240a, some royal excelene, a juicebox 20ah under the hood, Three SI mag v3 12's sealed (amp undecided), silver flute 8's in the doors, and hlcd's under the dash on a PPI 900.4. Doors first, but intend to fully dampen the cabin, mlv, ccf, cld, and foam. Want to sniff out an 80prs and snag a minidsp also. I'm so geeked.

i have a mecedes benz 560sec with 2 12' fi ssd's running off of a crossfire vr2000d with the port of the box firing thru the rear deck. i have never had a car with a sunroof and i am about to have this one repaired. the cable to open it came loose. do any of you have sunroofs with serious beats? i am not competing so this question is more of a daily thing. have any of you had to have them permanently sealed because the sound broke them? i was thinking if i just vent the sunroof a little while playing it wouldnt cause damage or also of angling the port more forward instead of upward to minimize the stress on the roof.. i would hate to get my sunroof working for the sound…

On a serious note.What would you do on a 2k budget.this includes HU,componets,subs,amp,box,electrical,etc?

well i 1st got my volt meter maybe 2 or 3 months ago, or around that and i put it on the neg and pos post of my xspower battery under the hood to calibrate and when i turned it , nothing happened just the stinger logo lit up thats it, i told darvex and they told me to ship my old one and i did and gave me another replacment this friday so i went today to calibrate and when i put the pos and neg on the post of my battery it dont light up WTF?! am i doing wrong all it does is flash or couple seconds and thats it if i hold it there nothing lights up, but if i rub it, it just flickers anyone know if im doing anything incorrectly??? this is really making me just buy a used one…

Figured it would be fun to start a meme thread

I have been trying to find a good school for mobile audio installation, fabrication, and such. I found this website about this school www.mobiledynamics.com based in Arizona. I know nothing about this school and can not find any feedback from people that have gone there. If anyone knows anything about it please, let me know your thoughts. Thanks,

Companies who under rate their equipment such a drastic amount, then have everyone believe they are "magic" subs or amps. Some how producing/handling way more power then their RMS say they can. Do you not see what is going on? The woofer isn't "badass" because it's rated "600rms" but you magically put 1,000rms-1,500rms on it without it dying. Guess what? It's not a "600" watt sub. It's a 1,000-1,500w sub rated at 600wrms to make the stupid people think it's the best thing since sliced bread. And guess what? It works..... Same thing goes for amps. If you have a "2000" amp. But EVERYONE who tests it gets 2500+ out of it. Guess what, It's not a mega powerful 2000w amps t…

ok so in my blazer i had a rockford t1500 and four punch p3 12's in a correctly built ported box. i just got my new sundown 3500 and hooked it up and it is no where near as loud as my old t1500 was. i have ajusted the eq settings on the amp and everything properly and i have to turn my headunit ALL the way up with all the bass options all the way up for it to even be kinda loud. i know for a fact i have missed something here cause this amp should be raping my p3's. i have extra batterys in the back, the big 3, all 0 awg wire, my subs are wired down to 1 ohm right, H/O alt....etc. should i bridge the speaker terminals, like one positive channel and one negative? i need s…

I cannot find this info anywhere but i was at a seminar for a big show coming every year in Louisville, KY next month. The dealer there said that they would have still been a current Kinetik battery dealer but they had to get rid of their inventory because there are rumors goin around saying that Kinetik is about to close for good... Now, i have never seen this posted anywhere but a dealer would have first hand knowledge of such action so i dont know really what to believe. It doesn't hurt me any but for those who like the company, might be something to look into.

We'll with only one week until the parade my sister has asked me to figure out a way for them to play music for their float In the parade. My main problem is the truck towing the float isn't mine, so I can't take apart, change or modify anything on the vehicle. Second problem is this needs to be done for as close to free as possible. First thought is a power inverter to power one of their boom boxes and just bungy cord it all to the bed of the truck. Issue here is the power inverters with enough current aren't cheap, hard to source locally and I'm not a big fan of having to directly wire it to the truck's battery. I do have two old Kinetik HC1800s in my garage.....the…

Here is the TEMPORARY setup: 04 Audi S4 Deck: stock, low signal outputs converted to RCA with Soundgate LOC.22 Highs: stock components, 2ohm each Subs: (2) Crystal CPE 8" in rear deck, infinite baffle, 8 ohm woofers Amps: (2) Sony XM2252HX. One is on the highs, high current mode @ 1ohm/channel. One is on the subs, high current mode @ 4ohm bridged My question is, the subs bottom out real bad...worse than my stock 8 and at less amount of volume. I still need to seal up a major leak from the trunk to the cabin, which I will be taking care of tomorrow but that should only fix the volume portion. Considering they are just 8's, should I just run the built in amplifier high pass…

Im currently running 2 18s on about 2000w rms each. I know most would put both in the same box but i built separate boxes. the boxes are bolted together and then I have it in a wall config. According to Turros box calculator I have about 6cuft each and the port is tuned to about 32hz...what can I do to get louder if anything. Also I don't think the soundstream amps are putting out 2000w rms. would a more efficient amp help too. maybe an better amp with about the same rms power as the subs (1800w rms) not to risk blowing my subs.... advice please

Hello all I have a 2015 Silverado crew cab and I finally have the funding to play a little my goal is to have a 5k amp and 2 15s subs in ported box, the whole back cab will be sacrificed. I need to know if a 250a alt and a good batt would be sufficient for what I’m looking for or maybe that and an extra batt? Also I keep reading about this donut deal on my negative battery cable that regulates alt voltage, and that it’s a pain to get around? I haven’t dug too deep into it, but i wanted to start with at least a big 3. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks

my friend is on the verge of purchasing two pioneer competition woofers. the 2kw rms ones, and most likely, two t20001bd amps. that, or, two 1500d's (i am trying to push him towards sundown, hear alot of good stuff from the customers). how would you guys recommend we prepare his WRX for competition? it is a monster of of the RF 200.2 we put in this weekend, and we are almost afraid of 20 times the power. his trunk is shaped in such a way that it is a vented box, inside of a vented box. it has a little passage thingy into the cabin that it pushes the air through, it sounds quite good, (when i can keep him from cranking it up and clipping it) finally got the measurements b…

Okay I am thinking about purchasing a Kicker Solo Baric L7 15" and the guy selling it to me is charging me 200 dollars, is that a good price? It's about a year old and in a ported box. Also he is selling me a Sundown SAE-1000d for 250 is that a good price? Would i need another battery to run this sub?

I need some help figuring out on what I should get. I'm looking for a 12" sub with around 600-900watt rms and a good amp. My car is a 2000 Grand am GT with not a whole lot of trunk space. I already have an aftermarket radio so I just need the box,amp,and subs. Any help is appriciated!

Hey everyone, basically im ordering My deadening next, but i want to hear some inputs from people on which is a good brand. Will be going in a 93 Mustang Coupe ripping out the back seat need something that will hold up to 2 Fi BTL's powered with SAZ-3000D what are some brands and could i get reviews please thank you

I want to apologize to any of you who have tried to help me or if i offended any of you in anyway. I hate being wrong and was being bone headed because of it. Could you guys forgive me? I realize you guys know infinitely more about this kind of stuff than I do and instead of arguing with you guys I need to listen and learn so someday i can be in your shoes. so once again i'm sorry guys

ok i have a few questions the system is coming along well, but im looking at door speakers. i just got my girl a head unit and zeus door speakers had good reveiws on sonics( i got her some cheap stuff cuz she will be happy with anything i am alot more picky).the watts on the zeus speakers are 500w for the pair? really? there like 60 bucks..i got those for her to see how they sound cuz crescendo audio will not return my calls or e mail.....um did they go under and not tell me? but do the watts rally matter that much i was going to put mine to an amp. also can you lower the ohms like on a sub?....TO SUM UP do the watts matter and ca you lower the ohm is my question.

As simple as the title and poll makes it. They are going in a ported box in the trunk of a B8 A4. Imagine that the box is ideal size and tuned to about 33 for all options. They are being powered by a Sundown SAX-1200D. I know all of these will have the output im looking for so which would have the most SQ? Thanks for the help.

So i go to walmart to do some shopping right...come out 30 minutes later and see my window busted out and nearly hit the ground!! Pop the trunk and NATHIN was in there.... Boy does it suck to work so hard for stuff just to get it taken by someone that has nothing. So new plan in the making for my next sub stage.... So im think since i had an aq2200 and i never had it wired past 2ohms this time im going to do a aq1200 and to match it with 4 10" dcons!! Im thinking since my car did good on 1200rms from my aq2200 then why not get the aq1200 and then 2 more 10's which in reality should be louder and maybe sound better then my 2 sa10's .....cant wait!!! But now its time for a …

I was over on DIYMA and was reading that Eclipse will be leaving the USA/North American market and focusing on OEM. Here is the link .... Good Bye Eclipse we will miss you! - DIY Mobile Audio

Hey guyz i was checking out PSI's website for some soft parts and was gonna call but there is no number or address. So then i googled the location for the company and it said Coldwater Ms, thats 10 min away from my house!! Does anyone know if the company is there or if its just the owners house? Help me yall!!

So I installed my system on wednesday and Im having a problem with my bass cutting out at higher volumes. If I turn it down it comes right back. I would say it cuts out around 2/3 volume depending on the song. i also tried with the sub gain in a range of position from 0 to half with it set on the radio at the center position. I checked the amp and the blue light stays on the entire time and no other lights come on. Heres my current setup vehicle 09 cobalt ss radio stock processor/loc mtx req sub amp sundown sae 1000 subs (2) sa-12s d4 4 gauge wire first time setup: subs wired to 1 ohm (verified on dmm), battery output at idle 14.2v, amp grounded at battery(in trunk…