General Audio

What makes your setup hit your chest hard? Is it the RMS amount? Box Tuning? Sub? What would be the best way to get the hard hitting, urghh my chest bass (: I have an Fi SSD 15(copper coil), just built the box , tuned to 33hz, 3.44 cubic ft. Powerd by a hifonics 1206d. Box is built just waiting on the Sub to come in the mail. If this setup isn't going to do it, then thats alright. But what is this build good for?

I was going to get a DCON 12, ported around 30-32hz. I plan to run it off the bridged rear channels of a 4 channel amp. Was going to get the Crescendo 1000C4, but it doesnt have the option to use the HPF as a subsonic filter. Will it really be needed? I like to listen to Bass Mekanik and other artificial bass heavy stuff like that.

Soo my boss said I could put some beat in my work truck "2010 silverado crew cab" but it has to appear stock. I was looking at SubThump...the look ok....anyone have expieriance with these boxes?

Hi, I have cheaper stuff than most of you guys wipe your butt with. Anyways, I have a 2x10" sub with Pioneer speakers that say they handle 50-120w RMS (I know I know, don't laugh) and a 2-channel Pioneer GM-3300t amp that claims the following: Output Power (4 Ohm, <=1% THD) 60 Watts x 2 Output Power (4 Ohm Bridged, <=1% THD) 150 Watts x 1 Output Power (2 Ohm, <=1% THD) 75 Watts x 2 Now, since I am buying a pair of front component speakers, I wanted to hook them up to an amp. The question is whether or not I should use my current amp for the component speakers, or keep the cheapo amp with the sub and buy a new amp for the component speakers. BTW, the subwoofer…

Okay I'm sorry in advance if this topic has been posted about before in this forum but to my credit i did look. I just recieved my sa-12 (dual 4 ohm) from ssa yesterday and i have it on a jx 1000/1 wired to 2 ohms in a ported box thats too small for it (sorry but thats how it is) it sounds good though. I try to avoid hammering on it for too long but I do turn it up to the full 1000 watts for a few seconds at a time. I just want to break it in correctly to avoid blowing it or damaging it because i do exceed the rated power sometimes. How important is "breaking in" a subwoofer in is and if it is important, what is the correct procedure to break it in? Also wh…

So basically I let a friend borrow my car and while he was using it he messed up the trunk latch and when he couldn't fix it he tied an extension cord around my subwoofer and box and held the trunk down with it. When he drove it back to me he played the music all the way up and when I got it back my subwoofer wouldn't play. I figured it was the woofer being held back while trying to play but then I tried another sub on it and it still wouldn't play so I tried another sub and again it didn't play. What could it be causing my issues. What could I do to diagnose my issue. The light on the amp goes on and it looks like everything is working. any help would be awesome. Thanks.

Im trying to learn more about subwoofer building. Specifically how different parts affect the sound of a woofer. Soft spiders vs Hard spiders, Aluminum coils vs Copper Coils, High roll surround vs Normal. Is there a thread that goes into detail about this sort of thing? Any help would be greatly appreciated

im planning to build 4 15" RE SRX on a toyota 1983 corolla DX.. the car is very small, and for me to fit them is to build a wall.. the car was used for racing and is in pretty bad shape.. so what i did to make fit the 4 15" was to make a new flat form for the boxes to stand on.. a new rear wall to have a flat surface.. now im building the box for the 4 15s.. the problem is. the car its self is pretty small.. and for me to build an independent box for the each 15 and go ported i need a bigger space but it seems i can only get 1.8 cubic ft. for each 15s. so i plan to go sealed on the 15s 2 subs in one common chamber.. what would cause these subwoofers to have cancellation? …

whats the diffrent sound between a pair of nightshade 15 hooked up to he saz3500 compared to 2 of the ssa icon hooked up to that same amp?

Just sold my Dual 2ohm BTL N2 to my buddy. It was working for a few songs then randomly cut off for a few seconds and then would turn back on for a bit, and this would happen over and over. Didnt really have enough time to diagnose anything last night but I was going to try to find out what was happening today. He has a Kicker ZX1000.1so I wired the sub in series. Weirdest thing is that he said it wasnt happening with his other subs. I was going to check the regular stuff like voltage at the amp and make sure I actually did wire the sub properly but Im not sure why it would be doing this in the first place. He told me the amp stays on so Im lost.

Okay, I drive a 1981 Ford Crown Vic, and I have a huge trunk. I am wanting to upgrade my Digital Designs 2515a to something a bit louder. I have 1200 RMS @ 2 ohms I can give one of these b!tches. It will go in a big a$$ ported box, size is not an issue. I love my Digital Designs 2515A, it is sexy and pretty loud, I am just wanting something a bit better now. Right now my DD2515a is in 4.26 cubic ft. [Tuned to 36 hz 65.875 Square Inches port Will be powered by two Directed 750d Strapped [1200 @ 2 ohm] I may upgrade soon, I am wondering how much would be a fair price to sell these for on eBay, one is in kind of rough physical shape though. I am thinking something ar…

I am trying to design a system that will give me very strong punchy output specifically to reproduce the sound and FEEL of drums, kickdrums, etc found in rock music. It needs to sound good, and get loud. To what end would to go to achieve this goal? Is it subs, midbass drivers, high powered components? Door/vehicle treatment? Speaking specifically about the subwoofer portion for now, how should I start? I have 8 cubes of space and about 1000 RMS available, with the ability to do 1800-2200 in the future if need be.

I need to find a super detailed diagram of every part of the average woofer. I can't figure out how to use search on SSA, maybe i'm slow, but time is of the essence. Does anyone have a link, or a link to a thread with one?

can any one help and give me the equations to calculate the box airspace and tuning on the box ... bcause i want to learn a very accurate way to design boxes like calculating them by pen and paper without using a software. PLEASE HELP

just kinda curious what yall use to mount your subs, ive used mostly just wood screws but was wondering what other recommendations were? Thanks

What way do you guys use to cut the holes when you are building a subwoofer enclosure?

Ok i've heard of this problem before: everytime my amp gets power and turns on (when i turn my key to acc or further) my subwoofer makes a small popping sound. I saw that installing an inline remote switch on the remote wire would do the trick. Will this work and can anyone give me a link to a nice and simple one please? And also is this a threat to the integrity to my subwoofer because if it is i have to make sure i do this ASAP.? Thanks

Hey guys, I just finished installing a new system in my 08 Infiniti G37 Coupe, and it sounds great. I will upload some pics later, but I installed a cleansweep, a Sundown 100.2, a Sundown 1500d, phoenix gold rsd components in the front, and an RE SE 10. The RE 10 sounds good, but I know that the 1500 can do alot more than it is currently doing, and I would like to get a new 10 inch that would take 1000-1500 @ one ohm. I listen to mostly rock music, but I really listen to everything. I am not looking for huge numbers, but I do like alot of bass. I know it is a tall order to get a 10 incher to pressurize well, especially in a trunk. As far as box size, I can probably …

I have seen a lot lately people posting threads asking about their woofers SQ and woofers SPL in different enclosures. Also, using the same to compare different woofers like, " I don't wanna loose any SQ and but I want a lot of SPL." I'll start with SQ, most "SQ" woofers you will see are less then 1000w and are optimized for sealed enclosures to aid with a flat response. When most people talk about woofers and their SQ, they just want it to not sound like shit, not a flat response. It's takes 10% or more Total Harmonic Distortion to hear it. Most people wouldn't even notice it at that level. So next time you say you want to say you want SQ from your woofer, please reconsi…

I know that subwoofers unload under tuning frequencies in vented boxes and i was wondering what makes this happen. What's the physics behind it? I tried searching for the answer and everywhere it says the same thing, subs unload under the tuning frequency. I already know that, i want to know why it happens. Thanks in advance for anyone that knows.

ok so im going to have to fi bl 15s and im going to have them on a crescendo bc3500 and was wondering about the wiring. so for one sub i would have - to - and one - going out. then + to + and + out too and then the same for the other sub. and the amp has two +'s and two -'s and i put the wires from one sub into the + and - beside each other and the same for the other sub is that a 2 ohm load? sorry if its confusing tried explaining it the best i could.

This my current situation: 2006 Honda Accord coupe, stock everything. I plan on keeping the stock door speakers and just adding a subwoofer. I have: Pioneer DEH-p6000 headunit Sundown SAE-1000D amp SSA 10" Icon Subwoofer I had everything hooked up in my xterra, but recently sold that and bought the accord. This is what the radio/climate control area looks like The only adapter I have found is this for ~$150 which I think looks pretty bad. Ignore the lower headunit in that picture. I am thinking about just buying an AUX or Ipod input for music, and staying with the stock headunit. I did some research, and it seems like a line out converter would allow me to hook up m…

Audioque HDC315 vs RD Alpha v2 15" D2 Which does they beat harder? just curious.. my amp is Hifonics Brutus BXi2008D Class D AMPLIFIER 2000 RMS! 1ohm 2,000 2ohm 1,300 can gain amp to 1500 on gain so curious about it..

Hi All, After a year of bassless sadness, I am getting to a place to be able to set up another system. Right now, my current research leads me to an SSA ICON (12" or 15" though leaning towards a 12"), FI Q Series, or Sound Qubed. I am also open to other brands or recommendations. My last system was two Sound Qubed HDS 3 10's and a Skar Monoblock 2200w Amplifier. I sold this system but still have the external audio battery to use. I have also had SSA DCON's in the past which I loved. I was reading online that SQ's products don't compare to SSA or FI. What would be the best subwoofer to go with for a single sub setup? Ideally, I am looking for sound quality more t…

I am looking to buy a new car and I have a question for anyone who knows, or has experience with what subwoofers sound like in a convertible. The car I am looking to buy is a 1997 mitsubishi eclipse spyder gs and I was wondering if subwoofers would be worth putting in. I know that is waaaay too broad of a question because everyone has different definitons of sound quality and volume, but I would just like some opinions maybe from people who have put subwoofers in a convertible before.