General Audio

I want to apologize to any of you who have tried to help me or if i offended any of you in anyway. I hate being wrong and was being bone headed because of it. Could you guys forgive me? I realize you guys know infinitely more about this kind of stuff than I do and instead of arguing with you guys I need to listen and learn so someday i can be in your shoes. so once again i'm sorry guys

I would like to apologize for my previous post here which has not been marked as spam: http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/59379-xplicit-audio-new-company/#entry997621 It wasn't my intention to piss anyone off which seems to be the case. I didn't intend on trying to compete with SSA. I didn't even think of that option. So I apologize.

ANyone done this? How much of a pita is it? Seems like that schutz gun would get it everywhere. MattB

if you want to eliminate the push terminals and use a direct connect style like AQ or DD do you just solder the 8 guage directly onto the tinsel leads?

ok so i ordered a audioque 2200D today and im real anxious to get it.. does anyone know how fast they ship? lol im not gonna be able to sleep tonight:/

Does the aq750 have rca? My headunit is cde122 and has rca on the back Not sure about all of this. Thanks

I am looking at buying a used Arc Audio 4150-CXLR. Anyone know what one of these is worth, I dont want to pay too much. Please help Is $200.00 too much for it.

I just got the ARC-AUDIO 2500 CXL & looking for some info on it? Any one know the good & bad with these amps? For years I have used a SoundStream 10.2 & have been very happy with it. Should I swap it & run the ARC?

I will be starting another small build in my 530i soon and i'm trying to make good informed descisions on sub amps. I've been browsing different forums and reading different articles discussing topics like amplifier distortion and clipping. Since i first got into car audio i have not ran anything but cheap budget systems. The amps i've used in the past 7 or 8 years on my subs have been : (excuse all of the weak sauce) 1. An old Concept cc-504a - ( i think 100 x 4 @ 4 ohms) 2. California Profile AP1000M ( 500 x 1 @ 2 ohms ) 3. Kenwood 9103d ( 900 x 1 @ 2 ohms ) 4. SPL DK2-2400 ( 540 x 2 @ 2ohms ) 5. Kicker ZX 400.1 ( 400 x 1 @ 2 ohms) 6. Audiopipe AP 3000 ( 3000 x 1 @ 2 oh…

Umm, Just like the title, Are there any magazines made that are dedicated to car audio? Thanks ~MadroX

i've got a nine.1 for my 12's, and an orion 8004 im going to power an alumapro alc 6.2 component set with. im planning on running the mids off 2 channels and the tweets off the other 2. im thinking of buying these rca's http://cgi.ebay.com/Stinger-4-Channe...QQcmdZViewItem but i didnt know if it was cool to use a 4 channel set like that with 2 of them running the components (split with a stinger helix y cord on each one, so the mids and tweets will both be playing the front channel) and the other 2 used for the bass on the nine.1. they should be fully shielded so this is cool right? also how do i want to wire the amp up? i just bridge 2 of the channels with the 4 ohm mids…

which are u running?

So I couldn't bear the way my system sounded with $40 pawnshop speakers from a decade ago. So I decided on a two way setup. HiVi M8A 8" mid, alum/magnesium cone, and a Vifa X25 (or 35) tweet I don't remember. Under 200 for all of em. 2cuft each tuned to 26hz Baffle step defraction design (the tweet moves that way it can be the same distance from the listening position as the center of the mid driver. At first I thought this idea was just hifi bullchit but if you close your eyes while listening and someone else moves the tweets around you can really hear it. the best distance I've found is about 4" back from the front baffle. The tweeter mounts are not finished, I'm tryi…

How much would two Havoc 12s run me? And what would the best amp for my money be if i do end up getting them?

Has anyone ran the ascendant audio havoc series 6.5 speakers or the tweaters? Im assuming there component for the 6.5 so any input from anybody on here about there product?

I would do this myself, but being out of the "car audio" loop for 8 months puts me at a pretty serious disadvantage. I still have ALL of my old gear: ehh nothing else worth mentioning. But this being a new truck, I kind of want to start anew. 1) The doors already house a stock 2-way component setup (6x9's low, and a 1" paper tweet). With the speakers out, there is almost 3" of depth in the doors and enough room to fit a 10" driver in (although 7" should be plenty). I'm intrigued by using the stock locations and doing an active 2-way setup. 2) As far as low freq's go, I'm no longer really interested in pounding my brains out. A single beefy 8 should do the trick. Besides,…

so upcoming in march, i have a build scheduled. my brother will be helping me with the carpentry aspects, i am doing rest of install from what i gathered in the other thread before it was closed, is that my buddy should go with a BL 18 for his 66' impala. already planning on double mids and highs, mids are most likely gonna be mach5 mli's, and tweets are undecided. who is running a BL18? what specs are the box, tuning, volume, etc. any help would be appreciated. i would like to keep this topic on a positive note, no dissing or putting down, i am sure denim is tired of closing threads.

Ok so for the last day or two I've been at a total loss as to what's causing problems with my system. I've had it running for a few months now on this brand new SAE-1200Dv2 without a single hiccup until last night. So, this is how it started... I was on my way to my friends house when my subs cut out a couple times. Thought to myself, no biggie, must be a loose connection somewhere. I checked my ground and it was fine. I took a DMM to the subs which presented a 1ohm load, so that checked out. I took the DMM and measured voltage at the battery and amp, which read 14v+. The amp is also getting power as it did not go into protect or turn off. I also took the amp off the swit…

I have no idea how loud my system is but I'm wondering at how many db's do your ears start to feel discomfort? It only happens when I have it going full tilt but my eardrums start to tickle and they hurt a little bit on the lower frequencies (30-35hz) I almost never feel it but anytime I have a friend riding with me they complain about their ears nonstop but I almost never feel it? I'm guessing when I get the saz-3500 and whatever sub its going to be very hard to sit in my car?

Ok, I know some of the more popular manufacturers on here. But does anyone have any experience with Atomic? I want good, bad, satisfactory.....

Interesting thread concerning Atomic Audio....A must read. http://www.carstereo.com/forum/showthread.cfm?tid=61617&fid=6

Any of you heard of this company and if so whats your opinions on them????

my luck is horrible...I took my car through a pressure wash, and my back glass is cracked horribly. i am going to try to see someone tomorrow morning and try to get it fixed if anyone is open. i will try to make it down to va as soon as i can. Webster

(Not sure if I posted this in the right section sorry) Considering I'm in college, and I haven't been able to work that much through out the year Iv decided to try and make a little extra money on the side, along with helping out some fellow Canadians. I'm thinking about building a few subwoofer boxes for anyone around my area really. I highly doubt anyone will really even be living near me on here but its worth a shot.. Anyways, if you need some help building a box and live in the Niagara Region id love to help. Thanks.

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