General Audio

i have a wierd problem i just installed o ga wire under the hood for the big 3 and now i have a really bad ground problem like i hear when i hit the brake pedal even the turning signal and cant understand it. i grounded it to the frame and vehicles factory location also sanded them to bare metal... and just the other day now if i turn it up to a certain volume it sounds like the woofer flop or play out of tune thats why i was thinking it might be the rca's any help appreciated.... i run 2 12'' q's on a everest soundlabs prototype amp box is 5 cuft and tuned to 30hz

So i am planning to rebuild and i was planning on 4 15's but don't want to give up that much space. I would like to keep it at the c-pillar. So i was thinking 3 15's. So what would i have to worry about wiring up 3 subs? I have 2 AQ2200d to power them so if i strap them i would like to stay near the 2 ohm's. I dont know much about box rise but if i had them wired at 1.5ohm's would that be ok? What other suggestions do you guys have

Experianced window tinter needed!! Multiple years experiance requested, please apply in person at the shop. Give us a call to ensure the owner is in if you'd like so as to not waste a trip. Innovative Audio Phone: 225-664-0019 1400 South Range Ave Denham Springs, LA 70726 www.innovative-Audio.com

Any of your eastern or midwest USA guys ever notice any db difference in the freezing winter months? Id be interested to know any different readings Ive always noticed bass sounds much better during the summer months

planning on purchasing the Q1-1200D and running a FI Q12 at 1 ohm producing 1200watts. If I were to switch the FI Q12 for say an SSA Gcon 12 rated at 750rms and running the Q1-1200D at 2 ohms producing 870watts would the response/SQ etc. be different ? What I'm really wondering is stressing the amp at 1 ohm pushing the Q12 produce not as good clear/SQ/responsive bass then running it at 2ohms with a Gcon 12? Or for comparing purposes say the ICON 12 with Q1-1200D at 1 ohm vs the GCON 12 with Q1 at 2 ohms produce a different sound ? I'm not asking for SPL/LOUD but a difference in sound clarity/response etc. in the bass. I hope my question is clear LOL. My main goal is …

Im building a box to fit int he back wall of an s10. looking for about 32-33hz tune. I have box plans drawn, will email with replies. Current box is about 7cubes and is in the bed of the truck. Speaker is Skar VVX d2 15 on a roughly 2000watts@1ohms amp. Thanks.

Hello everyone just need a little bit of advice if someone could help me out! Here is the scenario. I have a 2001 ford windstar minivan with this done: 2 alpine type rs hifonics brutus 1200 rms 4 guage wire with 60 amp inline fuse NO big three stock alternator Today I switched out my battery and put in a kinetik hc1800. On my way to work I experienced very bad voltage drops to the point the amp cut out. I did not experience this bad of voltage drop with my stock battery. I have money at my disposal and I also don't want to hurt my equipment I just don't know what is the next step?

I'm up on the air on if I should buy the Focal PS165 components or a 270A alternator. I don't need the alternator at the moment since I'm not hooking up my second amp up until I ordery second 15.

Okay, I have had this horrible smell for about 3 days. Didnt know what it was until i opened the good and seen my fuse smoking..... So I found my fuse holder smoking with the side that goes to the amp alll burned up and melted.... I dont know why at all.... It only started after my car had ran out of gas... Not sure how or why that would have an affect. but the odd thing too is my subs pound fine and my highs are still going. What can I do!?!? or check for? The only other thing I could even think was bad was a ground? Would that be a problem?

i have a bl 18 in my nissan frontier crew cab on a 3000 watt hifonics brutus and i have about 300 more dollars to spend and i planned on getting another battery for about 100 dollars then should i get the epicenter or seal it off i might can do both but pretty much what im asking is what should i do from this point to make my system better

but this should be pretty fun otherwise. Hello guys my name is Chris and I've been involved in car audio for over 10 years and seen some pretty crazy stuff. Bass boost on the deck maxed, 100 amp fuse in a deck, 20 speakers powered on a deck etc etc. I thought it would be fun if everyone would just pick one of the dumbest and craziest car audio related setup and post it here for laughs...Thanks guys...

During my night shift last night noticed the Nakamichi PA-1500 was the same price as the Soundqubed Q1-1200D. Is the Nakamichi the same quality it is famous for? Are they at the same level quality wise as the Q1-1200D or even better ? I've read how awesome Nakamichi was in the day but having troubles finding up to date info on the quality of there products? Also anyone hear the SPW-1210 their 12' woofer ? Any good compared to say Fi Q12 or SSA ICON 12? How are their components ? Any information on Nakamichi would be appreciated as the prices seem to be very cheap atm and I'm thinking quality might have gone down as well. Their 4 channel amp any good too? They claim to be…

Im trying to do the big three but i need some terminals. Can i use ring terminals to hook on to my battery post or do i have to use an actual negative and positive battery terminal like this one.. http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewitem?itemId=180869142771&siteId=0&isClassified=false

Feel free to shoot me an email at: i'[email protected]

So I was driving down to the grocery store the other day and decided to throw the bass nectar station on pandora and turned it up a bit. I have one 10inch Icon on 1200w in my crew cab silverado. I go to leave the store and the truck womt start. So i start checking fuses. I find one fuse in the box is kind of half out. Push it back in and problem solved. The only thing i can think is the bass vibrated it out. Possible? Anyone else have it happen? Fuse box is in the engine bay.

I plan to build a floating amp rack in trunk of my car and was wondering what the best material to use for the construction. I was thinking 3/4" boxed tubing but I'm not a structural engineer or anything, so i would appreciate the input on the matter.

Ok so after a couple months of research and asking questions on this forum ( Thank you to everyone who answered and gave me their honest opinion ) I have begun to build my system. No its not anything amazing but it is awesome to me lol. First I will list what I have planned and then I will ask my questions and ask for your feedback and advice. Thnx Vehicle - 2005 Jimmy 2door 4x4 Headunit- Pioneer DEH-80PRS (ordered) Speakers- Hertz HSK 165 6.5's 2way component up front. (unsure on install placement yet. Factory is door but thinking custom placement wedged between wind shield and dash facing driver/passenger) (purchasing at store I heard them at when headunit …

I was thinking of getting 2 SSA Zcon 18's.. im tring to keep a budget, so for now i was gonna run a Hifonics Brutus 2400.1 on each sub until i can afford better amps...The are supposedly CEA certified.. any thoughts???? Are they worth a crap?

i have a 98"GMC ext truck that im going to wall off soon. i was wondering what set up would be better. 2 SSA Zcon 18s 2250w rms each= 4500w rms 4 SSA Icon 15s 1250w rms each= 5000w rms i have room to build either set up and lets assume i have the alt, amps n batts to push it..

2013 Subaru Impreza SSA Icon 12" (purchased in 2008 for a 2000 Civic Hatch EK) Sundown Amplifier (dont have model off hand, for use with subwoofer) Pioneer AVH-2400BT Headunit Been searching for a few days now on what to do with the speakers in this car and have had some difficulty. Prices I've listed are appoximate since I've not shopped around yet. What Im looking at: Front Components (6.5):-Hertz HSK165 ($380)-Morel Tempo 6 ($340) Rear:I've not had the pleasure of riding in a car with aftermarket rear door speakers, meaning only coupe style where rear speakers are often killed by a subwoofer due to proximity. I read that rear speakers should really only be replaced for…

I have an 07 Dodge Ram 3500 Mega Cab My head unit is: - Kenwood KDC-BT852HD. Which is 50W x 4 In my front doors I have: - Alpine Type R SPR-69 speakers. Which is RMS 100w & Peak 300w In the rear doors I have: - Alpine Type R SPR-60 which is RMS 100w & Peak 300w For my sub I have: - Alpine Type R SWR-12D2 which is RMS 1000w and Peak 3000w Now I need help on choosing an amp to power everything and I`d like to get the most out of all 4 speakers and sub. I have a list below of amps that will work with my system. Which two amps would be best for my set up? Thanks! Sub amps: - Nakamichi - PA-1500 1200 Watt RMS Mono Digital Bass 1 Ohm Amplifier - TXA-1000D - Cadence Cla…

Hi, I recently just got a ford 2003 explorer, along with that i got a JL W7 13.5 and an amp that ive allready had, i just dont know anything about ohms or all this car electrical crap my Sub specs can be found here http://www.crutchfield.com/p_13692116/JL-Audio-13W7AE-D1-5.html?showAll=N&search=jl_w7_13&skipvs=T#details-tab and my amp here http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_17599_Hifonics-BXi-2610D.html I just need to know if this setup will work cause my sub has dual voice coil with 1.5 ohms per coil but the amp only does 1, 2 and 4 ohms i believe? i just dont know if this is to much power or what, im also using 0 gauge wire, and i have a 1200 Kinetik batter…

Hello all, im sure you're getting tired of seeing my post but here's another. I have 2 sundown SA-12s that will be in a ported 3.5cuft tuned to 32hz with 56sqin of port area on a saz-1500d v.3 wired at 1ohm so about 1500watts with all 1/0 gauge XS flex wire with the big three about to be put in my car. also going with audio technix sound deadener. My buddy has 1 Alpine type R in a prefab sealed box and 1 Alpine type S in a ported prefab box( i would think the type R would be in the prorted and the type s would be sealed but what ever thats his choice) with 4 gauge wire on a 2000watt max amp (both running on same amp) that me or him have no idea what the rms is but he says…

Okay so I just got a new Dodge Dart a week ago, and I love it! It has 6x9's in the door's and obviously leave a lot to be desired. They have quite a bit of midbass, but lack everywhere else, so the fronts have to go, I don't care about the back door speakers. My Goals: - CHEAP - Decent overall Sound, plenty of midbass - Loud, Bright, not harsh. I have always been a fan of bright Silk tweets. - Keep stock HU - CHEAP - CHEAP What I have: - stock 6x9 - Alpine V-Power 50x4 - spot for an 8" sub in the rear deck. - Line out for factor HU - spot in dash firing up for up to a 3" mid/ tweeter - LPG 26 tweeters I bought when I was going to go active with some CDT ES-06. What I need…

I love when you have somebody pull up next to you with a "wally world" system and you completely drown them out. Here in Memphis,TN there seems to be so many weak systems that it is almost fun just to cruise around. Though there are the select few that are sounding great !!!