General Audio

Hey everyone, This is my first post here on SSA! I've recently purchased a 2008 Hyundai Elantra SE ( and am looking to build a nice system for it. Keep in mind that I'm a college student and do not have too much money. Basic idea is, the less money I spend the better. However, I do want a system that has nice SQ as well as enough bass that it could make people look my way! You know, maybe at a stoplight or in front of my friends. I listen to a lot of rock, but I also listen to rap. I'm not going to do any competitions, and I don't want to go overboard. I'd have to say my limit is under 500 dollars, and under 400 would be even better. I don't have any components excep…

As some of you already know, i've decided to add a 3rd xcon to the 2 i already have for a setup in my civic. I've pretty much got everything i need. Just need some more wiring and misc interconnects. Amp, too. Anyway, while talking to my box builder and the guy that helps me out with installs, he told me instead of running sealed with the xcons, i should run them in an IB config. His reasoning being 1. Sealed requires more power to hit the same SPL while IB requires much less. less power to use = happy electrical. 2. I'll retain about 80% of my trunk space I've never had an IB setup, but i've heard a couple and they've sounded amazing. They were all 100% sq setups, thou…

How to install external 4-channel amp and mono block amps into Mercedes Benz cla300 2016 with Harman kardon factory upgrade.. Keeping factory head unit console and steering wheel controls?

http://forum.soundillusions.net/showthread.php?t=34147 Sorry this forum wouldnt allow me to hold all the pics

Who among you can build THE best sounding car audio system that is NOT connected to your vehicle’s charging system? How well can you build a stand-alone electrical source that will properly power your audio system? And, yes, it can and it has been done! Please visit *removed*, scroll down to TAKE THE BATCAP CHALLENGE toward the lower right hand portion of the page and click on it. This will explain the challenge in more details. Please e-mail any questions that you may have to *removed*.

i was wondering how hard it is to get sponsored... cuz i was kinda looking into it but dont really know what they are looking for...

I have a Chevy extended cab full size I want to compete with again, I don’t want a wall or blowthru should I do 4 12” or couple 15” or 18”? one big sub or multiple subs? i will be changing out my alt and adding batteries as needed i use to have 3 JL 12W7 I’m a slot port box with one 1000 slash amp per sub in an s10 extended cab hitting 153.4

Would like to appoligize, I am new to the forum and did not know my add would cause harm, just wanted to help! I did not purposely spam your forum.

I would just like to start off by thanking everyone here as I have learned so much reading everything here in the past year. As a start to the new year I am starting a new project on a 2002 Chrysler 300m. My previous setup is as follows: 2001 Ford Windstar LX Soundqubed HDC3 18 (2 ohm) SQ2200@ 1 ohm Enclosure built by me designed by Joe X Clarion cz702 Mechman 270 alt As one could probably tell already is that the box does not fit in the trunk. The trunk is designed very strange and impossible to put the box in so I will need to build a new one. I would like to build this box for (2) hdc3s if space is available. I could slide the box in through the back with the seat…

I have been running Powerbass subs for a little over a year now and I would have to say that they are the best sounding and hardest hitting subs I have ever used. At fisrt I was running 2 ES10d's in 1.5ft3 per chamber ported in a single cab 98 f150. Pushing 1100 watts through them with a Memphis MC1000D. Hit a respectable 141.7. Sold the 10's to my old man and bought 2 ES12Dv.2's. 2.1ft3 ported per sub in the same truck with the same amp and they drop like its hot. Can't wait to get it mic'd again. Hoping to get over 146 with them. Oh and the Evolution Coaxials and components sound great 2. 5.25 components up front, 6.5 coaxials out back with a Memphis 2004 four channel. …

Trying to figure out what to cover the amp rack and box with. I've normally just done carpet that was the closet match for the area the install is in. Trying to decide if I want t do something else now. I did a couple installs in the past where I used formica on the amp rack and trim pieces with carpet and I liked the look. Used to be able to pick up smaller sized pieces at Home Depot, but seems only full sheet now. Can't do vinyl, tried in the past and it just doesn't work well for me. Since all my trim will be black, I was thinking maybe white formica on the amp rack and maybe do the same on the top of the box, then make a carpeted trim pice that is cut bigger t…

Hello, I have a 2019 Nissan Frontier with a stock radio / screen minus satellite radio. I want to upgrade to a screen that has satellite radio and Car Play, (stock I can not upgrade). At the local dealer, they have Alpine, Kenwood etc, but can not seem to find a way to use the radio system (Car Play) wireless, meaning the only way is to have the iPhone plugged into the radio. I would prefer not to have the phone plugged in, but rather connected wireless and get Car play. Thank you

i was trying to figure out how to find out which wire is positive or negative on the door wiring...i changed the speaker on the door and replaced the factory but as i took it out i didnt know which was positive or negative since i didnt hook up the HU ...my friend told me take a batery from a drill and hook it up to the speaker while it was hooked up and if it poped up it was right if it popped down it wasnt..but how could i know which was pos or neg on the drill bat...anyways could i have messed anything up i was hearing weird sounds while i was doing it coming from the back sorry for the book guys lol

I've got a set.. should I still use them for my front stage or sell them? I'd planned on going active with 110w to them.

Just was wondering what would I need to set up my system to never drop below 14.1 or the lowest I want it to drop would be 13.1

im currently running one set of alpine type r 6.5 components on a diamond d1 250.2 with a high pass filter on. now for a 300+ dollar set of speakers when i bought them i dont think they have any midbass at all, a few shops ive been to said that they are playing jsut fine but i guess that means i need to upgrade. im planning on scrapping my 4 diamond 10s in a sealed box and going with 2 fi bl 12s ported and tuned to 32hz, but i fear that ill have a big gap where my mids dont perform. what do yall suggest in the 300-400 price range i was looking at these ZRS-710KIT - ZRS SERIES - Cadence Acoustics, LTD because i heard a set of coaxial 6.5s in the same truck i have and they …

hello all, this is my first post and i am pretty much a novice when it comes to car audio. that being said, right now i'm driving a '97 neon and i'm still running the stock speakers all around with some cheapy audio 3000 10" subs in a bandpass being run by a kenwood amp. i'm looking to get a system where the lyrics are clearly heard and the bass doesn't pound too hard but still pounds. (if that makes any sense)my questions are these: 1. i'm interested in building a half decent system on a students budget. what do u guys/gals think would be good speakers and subs to get? 2. is it better to stick with one manufacturer for the whole car? 3. how does watts,, amps, ohms com…

Hi, anyone who experienced these symptoms? * speakers are 6.5in. woofer and 1 inch tweeter, sometimes the left woofer stops playing while the tweeter is good. They're properly wired in their crossover. The woofer comes back whenever I adjust the volume at high level. * At high volume level, it sounds like you're playing the wire connection of the woofer, it's on..and it's off.. and on. * There are instances that the right woofer has the same problems too. * And sometimes the tweeter on the left channel stops too I already checked every connection and they're properly terminated. What could be the problem here? separates are RE XXX6.5c amp is Sundown SAX100.2 Help

Can anybody explain to me what each of these does and how can it benefit the sound I'll be reproducing in my system. The deck I will be using will be the Alpine CDA-9887 Also do i have to or need to measure anything when I do time alignment I wanna be able to do this right the first time and for the last time in my vehicle. Any suggestions welcomed

I already have around 60 ft of welding cable in my truck, I just picked up another 30 feet to do another run of positive to the back because I'm about to install dual alts. Would it be better to run 2 neg runs to the front and back batts or just ground at each end?

I'm looking into adding some pro audio into my car.. I pretty much have everything ready except some pro audio mids. I'm looking to run them off channels 3&4 on my Arc FD 4150 and want them to get some power. The reason they need to get a lot of power vs your standard 8 ohm mid is because I'm running 2 crescendo supertweets of a Arc FD 2100 and they are screaming (see distance video below.) I'm really only looking into 1 mid per side so I can fit the supertweet and mid in a kick panel I'm planning on making.

I’m running 2 skv2 1500.1s at the moment strapped,gonna be adding 2 more..What do y’all recommend for 1/0 runs to the back battery bank?Also would 1 dedicated run of ground be enough?

im going to post a link i hope thats ok with u guys thank u let me know what u think http://www.****/forum/s...0832#post160832

On a retail side of things . I am in the works of something huge, that will please every audio enthusiast on this forum . For those of you who don't know I am an internet entrepreneur, and have recently just got hooked in this market. I have something coming in the next month on a retail side of things you guys will love! Still talking to some of the companies you all know around here, but the business model is done. Not much info I know, but just wait !

So I couldn't bear the way my system sounded with $40 pawnshop speakers from a decade ago. So I decided on a two way setup. HiVi M8A 8" mid, alum/magnesium cone, and a Vifa X25 (or 35) tweet I don't remember. Under 200 for all of em. 2cuft each tuned to 26hz Baffle step defraction design (the tweet moves that way it can be the same distance from the listening position as the center of the mid driver. At first I thought this idea was just hifi bullchit but if you close your eyes while listening and someone else moves the tweets around you can really hear it. the best distance I've found is about 4" back from the front baffle. The tweeter mounts are not finished, I'm tryi…