General Audio

So for the past week i been researching about t-lines and how i can design my own , but so far im just lost . i want to build a t-line for an old rf punch z 10, this is a home project.

I would just like to start off by thanking everyone here as I have learned so much reading everything here in the past year. As a start to the new year I am starting a new project on a 2002 Chrysler 300m. My previous setup is as follows: 2001 Ford Windstar LX Soundqubed HDC3 18 (2 ohm) SQ2200@ 1 ohm Enclosure built by me designed by Joe X Clarion cz702 Mechman 270 alt As one could probably tell already is that the box does not fit in the trunk. The trunk is designed very strange and impossible to put the box in so I will need to build a new one. I would like to build this box for (2) hdc3s if space is available. I could slide the box in through the back with the seat…

As some of you already know, i've decided to add a 3rd xcon to the 2 i already have for a setup in my civic. I've pretty much got everything i need. Just need some more wiring and misc interconnects. Amp, too. Anyway, while talking to my box builder and the guy that helps me out with installs, he told me instead of running sealed with the xcons, i should run them in an IB config. His reasoning being 1. Sealed requires more power to hit the same SPL while IB requires much less. less power to use = happy electrical. 2. I'll retain about 80% of my trunk space I've never had an IB setup, but i've heard a couple and they've sounded amazing. They were all 100% sq setups, thou…

i have every panel popped off ready for install. my doors are a mofo, the rubber grommet thing thats between my doors for the speaker wires is going to be really really frustrating and i was trying to figure out how much a shop would usually charge to run speaker wire into a door. i'll have the amp all hooked up and ready for speaker wire it just literally needs to be ran through the door. the door panels will be off, all the trim for the side where the wires will be popped so that will cut off some time on the installers part. roughly how much would a shop charge me for this?

I got to say hey to Alma, but I did not remember to get a picture with her, oh well I will next time, hope you guys enjoy, it was a very very weird feeling show if you look closely you will see Team Gates and the Beast and a few select massive JBL 6000 watt amps

hi i have a clifford 590.2x and i have to addons which is the dual zone motion sensor 508d and digital tilt sensor 507m how do i wire these two to my alarm thur the optinal mux port for additional sensors

hello all, this is my first post and i am pretty much a novice when it comes to car audio. that being said, right now i'm driving a '97 neon and i'm still running the stock speakers all around with some cheapy audio 3000 10" subs in a bandpass being run by a kenwood amp. i'm looking to get a system where the lyrics are clearly heard and the bass doesn't pound too hard but still pounds. (if that makes any sense)my questions are these: 1. i'm interested in building a half decent system on a students budget. what do u guys/gals think would be good speakers and subs to get? 2. is it better to stick with one manufacturer for the whole car? 3. how does watts,, amps, ohms com…

35 cubes tuned at 40Hz. 555 square inches of port. Power will be 5000-7000 on burps. Could i safely run this enclosure daily between 2000-3000 or should i make a port insert? What do you think? What sub's? The IXL18.2's would have been considered but they are not in stock. Thanks in advance for your help.

Hi, anyone who experienced these symptoms? * speakers are 6.5in. woofer and 1 inch tweeter, sometimes the left woofer stops playing while the tweeter is good. They're properly wired in their crossover. The woofer comes back whenever I adjust the volume at high level. * At high volume level, it sounds like you're playing the wire connection of the woofer, it's on..and it's off.. and on. * There are instances that the right woofer has the same problems too. * And sometimes the tweeter on the left channel stops too I already checked every connection and they're properly terminated. What could be the problem here? separates are RE XXX6.5c amp is Sundown SAX100.2 Help

i know there are those terminals you can buy from parts express that are pretty nice, but after shipping its like 20 bucks to my area. couldn't i just get some bolts at a general hardware store? i know this question has been asked, but every post i see there is not much about if its ok to do and what material bolts should i look into. all i need are bolts for my wiring and my box should be done!! lemme know what you guys think! thanks!

Check out: http://www.geocities.com/web_dreams/floormids1.jpg http://www.geocities.com/web_dreams/floormids2.jpg http://www.geocities.com/web_dreams/floormids3.jpg http://www.geocities.com/web_dreams/floormids4.jpg http://www.geocities.com/web_dreams/floormids5.jpg

So I was searching this forum and others and I found this stuff called BIRCH PLY. my thoughts are it looks sexy and cost more than mdf. but my question is how does it compare to mdf? does 3/4 mdf= ½ birch ply or 5/8 if ½ is to small? are there any downsides to using this type of wood? also can someone confirm if birch ply is 1/2 the weight of mdf? (say 3/4 mdf vs. 3/4 birch ply = 1/2 the lb's) I am considering using this type of wood for my box rather than MDF b/c my next setup will be a heavy one and eliminating weight will be good in my part or I will HAVE to buy a luggage kit for my car which is ~300$ my next setup will be: 2-saz2000 = 40lb~ 2-NS 15inch v1 subs = …

just wondering how everyone feel about wall setups. which do u find more impressive, walls or a non wall setup? would u wall if u could? if u have walled, wha made u do it? if u havent wall, y wont u wall? lol i find myself goin back and forth and just lookin for a lil motivation to go either way. want to see wha others have to say and experince.

Howdy, I have a 97 malibu that has already been through systems and is ready to go....Dont worry about electrical because what ever is needed to be done will be done. The correct amount of wire will be ran and the right alternators..... Im looking for input on a wall or subs in the trunk what ever....throw out every Idea you can think off as this will be done in spring but the Jimmy is all done and now its time to start the MALIBOOM! Money is not an issue....(every bassheads dream) so throw out your ideas oh and just to let you all know whatever sub size goes in the car it will be a SSA subwoofer!!!!!!!!!!!!! Let the fun begin. a video of a malibu that I picked up and …

ok so my friend asked me to pick out some options for his first system. he has a 05 impala stock batt. he is not worried about sq; he just wants a daily driver.about 300$ for the subs and i told him to get a ap 1500. seats fold down he is not trying to seal off the trunk. he wanted 2 p1 15s i told him not to do that told him get 3 ia 187 12s, 1 ia li 15 , 2 rex 12s, or 1 15 fi bl. is there any other suggestions i could give him. i also told him to get a new batt. he is not worried about taking up the whole trunk, also the icon 15 was suggested.

Hello there I own a crescendo bc 3500 and someone has offered to trade their sound quebed 4500 for my BC 3500 is this a fair trade or a mistake ?

I hate to ask this, but I think I may have been misinformed. What would be better/perform better, 2 10" subs ported with 1k watts each in the optimum enclosure or 1 15" sub ported in its optimum enclosure. I keep hearing conflicting stories and want to settle it once and for all. How would the two compare should be the real question......

I have always wanted to try out a kicker L7 and I found a 12" Kicker S12L72 for $180 without an enclosure. Since I do not know how stiff the suspension is supposed to be on the sub since I've never owned one. How am I supposed to know if it's blown or even working correctly?

So i have the old surround coil and spider out, i just need to finish cleaning up the old glue. I dont have aside grinder though like everyone says to use, is there another alternative? something else i could use my recone kit form PAP should be here sometime next week and i just want to make sure everything is cleaned up and ready to go for when it gets here. Thanks everyone.

So im trying to do my first recone and the tinsel leads won't fit through the small hole in the terminal, am i suppose to fabricate it somehow? also the tinsel leads on my other zcon 18 looks more round and in one peice and the recone looks flat and folded. I don't want to mess anything up zcon 18 tinsel leads ( looks round and in one piece) old sub zcon recone for broken sub flat looking tinsel leads. Terminal

I have been running Powerbass subs for a little over a year now and I would have to say that they are the best sounding and hardest hitting subs I have ever used. At fisrt I was running 2 ES10d's in 1.5ft3 per chamber ported in a single cab 98 f150. Pushing 1100 watts through them with a Memphis MC1000D. Hit a respectable 141.7. Sold the 10's to my old man and bought 2 ES12Dv.2's. 2.1ft3 ported per sub in the same truck with the same amp and they drop like its hot. Can't wait to get it mic'd again. Hoping to get over 146 with them. Oh and the Evolution Coaxials and components sound great 2. 5.25 components up front, 6.5 coaxials out back with a Memphis 2004 four channel. …

Vehicle is a 00 Audi S4. Front doors have a 1" tweeter up top next to the door handle, and a 4" speaker down low near the base. Rear doors have a 6.5" speaker at the base, & no tweeter. I am considering the Focal 165A3 3way component setup. Found Here (Or any other recommendations around that price) This would perfectly replace the worthless Bose speakers that are near death, as they are the same exact sizes. My concern is having the 6.5" of the 3way in the rear doors, an integral part of the system opposed to being just rear fill. The car is not very big, and my front seats are generally always back all the way (I'm tall). This basically puts them down almost right …

i was wondering how hard it is to get sponsored... cuz i was kinda looking into it but dont really know what they are looking for...

I already have around 60 ft of welding cable in my truck, I just picked up another 30 feet to do another run of positive to the back because I'm about to install dual alts. Would it be better to run 2 neg runs to the front and back batts or just ground at each end?

just like it says, i have an old Jl w6 15 the basket is good, i cut the souround and the spider to pull the sub apart to show my lil brother how it works,...... anyone do a recone with say an fi cone?? or anyother.. or do you think it MAYBE work listin it on ebay for 10 bucks