General Audio

Hi guys, new here but been running Sq for a while. I currently have an Sq 3.0 12" and a Sq mono 1200w amp. I'm about to purchase a twin amp and hook them together. My sub is 1 ohm. They way I understood it that running both amps in parallel would keep it a 1 ohm load from both amps. I would like to see a wire diagram on were to run the speaker wire from each amp plz and thank you.

About a month ago I had a local shop wire my car and install a set of components/head unit in my 2011 Malibu. Basically ran all wires to the back for me to put my amps and sub stage in. I installed a fosgate power 400.4 for my forgate t2 components using the passive xo. Couple different sub setups but always the same sundown saz1500. Extra kinetik hc2000 in the back. As of yesterday I'm starting to hear crackling coming from the tweets at about mid volume. Kinda strange because this morning I got in there after sitting all night and I was able to lay into it a little with no problems.. For about 2 minutes then the crackling/fuzz starts coming from the tweets again. Figure…

i am about to get some power wire for my big 3 upgrade and i was wondering wether it matters if i get a cheaper 0 guage wire or shell out and go for a brand name / more pricey wire thanks

Theoretically speaking if you wanted to build a 3 way active set of matching speakers but couldn't find a 4 inch speaker that wasn't coaxial could you just cut the leads running to the tweeter and still use the cone for lower frequencies ?

in my last decision problems thread i narrowed down which subs i wanted to get. ultimately, everyone steered me in the DSS direction so i ended with 2 12" DSS Ethos subs in a ported enclosure. now since i dont have many of the tools needed to make a proper sub enclosure atm, i will be buying one. i have 2 specific ones i found on ebay that i think might do the trick. they are: http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-12-Inch-CUSTOM-PORTED-CAR-AUDIO-SUB-WOOFER-ENCLOSURE-4-CU-FT-TUNED-32Hz-/400326247663?pt=US_Speaker_Sub_Enclosures&hash=item5d354dc4ef OR http://www.ebay.com/itm/DUAL-12-Inch-CUSTOM-PORTED-CAR-AUDIO-SUB-WOOFER-ENCLOSURE-5-CU-FT-TUNED-34Hz-/400326264513?pt=US_Sp…

fedex dropped these bad boys off at my door today as soon as i get a amp i will install them. im looking at a aq1200d if anyone has one for sale let me know. im not really ready to buy right now just looking at prices

I have a JL 13W6v2 motor that Ive had laying around now for a while. Am looking to buy a 2.7" voice coil to rebuild it without spending a arm and a leg for it with JL. I can find other soft parts that would work but finding a coil is a bitch. Can anyone help me out here in any way? I dont wanna get rid of it, I think its a decent motor other than the gap size. Thanks

Anything wrong with doing so? For example, 8 16ohm mids for a 2ohm load vs 6 16ohm mids and 1 8ohm, also for a 2ohm load?

I am not at all satisfied with my current mids and highs, they are just loud enough to be heard over the BTL, but they sound horribly stressed and weak in comparison. I wanted to put a pair of 8's in my front doors, and some new tweeters up on the pillar or the dash; before I look into getting pods made for my doors, has anyone had any luck fitting 8's in the doors of a Blazer/Bravada/Jimmy ? i'd like to keep it simple, at least til it's warmer out.

I was looking for a volt meter to keep track of the voltage when I get the system installed.

Good afternoon all. I want to take a minute and let everyone know that I will be assisting you with Powerbass questions/problems. By now most of you are aware of the changes with Johnny no longer being with us, My name is Ron and I am the Eastern Regional Manager. I am also a former 12volt/ fabrication specialist. It might take me a few days to get back to some of you but this is only due to my extremely busy schedule. I am glad to be a part of the forum and look forward to hearing from you. Thanks, Ron@ Powerbass

i had the fosgate t1001 amp old model not new,i was wondering how the saz1000 is comapible to that amp?the saz1000 is 279 dollars and i payed a shit load for my amp a few years ago from audio express 899 dollars to be exact lol a dam dollar a watt,thats why its hard to believe they do same power....

It seems I'm in a constant state of evolution with my system. Currently I have a modest SQ system, in so much as it sounds good to me. I've made certain compromises in order to keep a mostly stock environment, as well as my preference for listening to my iPod (versus CDs). My current setup: Front Stage: Alpine IDA-X001 AudioControl EQL Sundown Audio SAX-100.4 JBL P650C 2-way components Sub: Sundown Audio SAX-100.2 2 @ SoundSplinter RL-i8 (sealed) I play a wide range of music but have a preference for alternative/punk/dance. I had purchased a set of Seas CA18RLYs last year, but they won't fit my stock 4Runner door panels. While I'm satisfied with the JBLs, I can't hel…

ok so here what I've decided on for total system for my 94 Sundance: H/U:Pioneer 9800BT FRONT STAGE:Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS REAR STAGE:Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS SUB STAGE:Treo SSX15.22 F/S AMP:Soundstream PCX2.440 R/S AMP:Soundstream PCX2.440 SUB AMP:Soundstream PCX2000D Wiring:Xscorpion Batteries:Kinetik HC1400x3 Alt: Ohio Generator 300amp All comments thought and things that should be changed in your opinion would be greatly appreciated thanks.

So I am planning on putting a 1000w amp for a sub and possibly a 600w for my component speakers in my 01 civic. Can the battery handle this and if not what should I do? Thanks everybody

do you feel that satellite radio, either XM or Sirius is worth the $13 a month? what about the qualities and features of the receivers? cost of them? what do you look for in a receiver? what would you like in a receiver? is the sirius s50 worth the msrp tag of $350 (or so)? i have a few thoughts, but need some input. there could very well be a new receiver on the market soon....lol....with a nice kick to it. wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Buying a 1996 Lincoln Town Car I'm replacing the stock speakers of course but not going overboard this time so I was thinking for the front doors a set of Focal Ca1 # 5" x 7" Access Series Car Speakers # Power Handling: * Peak: 240 watts per pair / 120 watts each * RMS: 120 watts per pair / 60 watts each # All weather woven fiberglass cone woofer # Butyl rubber surround # 1" Aluminum inverted dome tweeter (TN44) # Stamped steel basket # Humidity resistant cone # Rotating tweeter # 4 ohms impedance And the speaker rack in the back a set of Focal 690 cvx # 6" x 9" Focal Polyglass 2-Way Coaxial Speakers # Power Handling: * Peak: 320 watts per pair / 160 watts eac…

what does everyone think about this career choice? if anyone is in the mobile audio profession, what do you think of your choice? and is there money to be made?

i have had this car for a while, i just replaced the motor, and now i would like to put some audio in it, and who knows what i will use or where i will lean. currently, i have the OEM 8 track that works!, the stock speakers in the rear, i think 6x9, the front were changed before i bought the car, thay are 6 1/2 duals " the ones that light up when thay hit' stated by the sell. i plan on keeping the 8 track in the dash, im gonna mouth a new player under the dash. i WOULD LOVE TO KEEP THE DUALS im playin son goals, i wanna beat, but not to much.. in 75 tha cars were made of steal so i dont wanna rattle to much.. and honestly its just gonna be another cruser, …

Ok well I have a roll of rammat (60 sq feet) and want to do my trunk as well as the two front doors. I know I will have to use it sparingly so I wanted to get some suggestions on where in the trunk I should put it. Here are some pics of my trunk stripped down. Also should I do where the spare tire goes or should I just put it around that? Entire trunk: Lid: Right side: Left side:

I went to a little car showoff / competition yesterday. This was in no way an actual 'organized' competition. Classes were setup as single subwoofer / double subwoofers / Three + subwoofers. After going through all the contestants, they handed out the trophies and prizes. First up was single subwoofer, my class! They call third place, at a 136.9db (I think i got this shit in the bag for 2nd place and my buddy would get 1st place). Then, they call 2nd place.. NOT me 142.1db. Finally they call my buddy for first place at 148.7db. So. I go up to the sheet and check my name.. I got 144.7db! They skipped my name i guess.. Anyways i told the instructor of the competit…

As some of you may have read, I traded an Alpine CD player, that I got for free, for a 15" stroker. I'm going to go outside right now and put it in and see what it does with the A7hc pushing it......be back in a little while to let you how it did....

My 10'' bl came in today and I couldn't wait to hear how my box turned out. Here's a picture of what it looks like: The box is roughly 1.15@33hz with a 3'' aeroport. But when the lower bass notes (in rap) were played, there was a very distinct "slapping" noise coming from inside the port to the beat of the bass. Is this considered port noise? Or could it be that one of the wires inside the enclosure is too long and is hitting the side of the box/sub? Or could it be a leak somewhere? It is very noticeable, especially because it is behind the seats in a reg cab pickup and the port is firing up right behind your head.

SSA posted on facebook about opions on goin overseas

A year or two ago I had a box made by the local shop, I asked them to build it the specs of IA for the LI 15 but I'm doubtful they did so? The port looked and always seemed too small, it doesn't have any L shap as far as the port goes its just straight back and seems too slim...how would I measure the port to see the tuning and determine the total cubic feet? Also by first glance, does anyone think something is wrong here with the port....when I see most other builds by specs they all look a lot bigger...shady shops, only in it for the money smh.. I'll upload some more pictures tomorrow for a better look...