General Audio

fedex dropped these bad boys off at my door today as soon as i get a amp i will install them. im looking at a aq1200d if anyone has one for sale let me know. im not really ready to buy right now just looking at prices

a 3.3uF MFD 100V cap, they use those on the tweets....says for 8 ohm drivers it crosses them @ 6k ive got some other ones that say 100WV (not 100V like the other ones i have) and they say 3.3MFD 10%...are they the same? also, "non-polar" what does that mean? someone said it means that it makes the amp not know what load the speakers are at

Hi all, After many weeks of research and reading reviews, I've decided to go with Diamond Audio components. My choices are Diamond Hex S600s fronts, Diamond D661 raw mids for rear fill and a single Diamond 10 or 12 inch sub, don't know which one yet, depends on amp and that's where you all come in. For the amp, I'm thinking either 1 - the new Diamond D6600.4 to feed the front 75 watts per side and run the rear speakers off the x-over's RAF connection and bridging the amp's rear two channels which will give me 300 watts for the sub. Or 2 - the JL Audio 500/5 to give the fronts 100 watts a side, the rears 25 watts each and the sub 275 watts, or 3 - a 2 channel amp at 150 …

I have a JL 13W6v2 motor that Ive had laying around now for a while. Am looking to buy a 2.7" voice coil to rebuild it without spending a arm and a leg for it with JL. I can find other soft parts that would work but finding a coil is a bitch. Can anyone help me out here in any way? I dont wanna get rid of it, I think its a decent motor other than the gap size. Thanks

Anything wrong with doing so? For example, 8 16ohm mids for a 2ohm load vs 6 16ohm mids and 1 8ohm, also for a 2ohm load?

I am not at all satisfied with my current mids and highs, they are just loud enough to be heard over the BTL, but they sound horribly stressed and weak in comparison. I wanted to put a pair of 8's in my front doors, and some new tweeters up on the pillar or the dash; before I look into getting pods made for my doors, has anyone had any luck fitting 8's in the doors of a Blazer/Bravada/Jimmy ? i'd like to keep it simple, at least til it's warmer out.

I was looking for a volt meter to keep track of the voltage when I get the system installed.

Acquisition Will Significantly Expand Directed's Position in Home Audio Entertainment VISTA, Calif., Aug 21, 2006 /PRNewswire-FirstCall via COMTEX News Network/ -- Directed Electronics, Inc. (Nasdaq: DEIX), today announced that it has entered into a definitive agreement to acquire Polk Audio, a leading provider of high performance home and mobile audio equipment. Consideration for the acquisition will be approximately $136 million in cash. Current Polk management will be joining the Directed team after the acquisition which is scheduled to close during the third quarter of 2006. Directed expects the acquisition to be accretive to its pro forma net earnings(1) in 2006 and…

i had the fosgate t1001 amp old model not new,i was wondering how the saz1000 is comapible to that amp?the saz1000 is 279 dollars and i payed a shit load for my amp a few years ago from audio express 899 dollars to be exact lol a dam dollar a watt,thats why its hard to believe they do same power....

I am getting ready to sell a cell phone I am not using. Once it is sold I will have $260 to spend on something for car audio. I have three choices on how to spend the $260 and wanted some opinions from everyone else as to what you would do or what would be more beneficial. Option 1- Two rolls of raamaat. Spend an entire weekend deadning my car, I might have a day off by the time it gets here. Option 2- One roll of raamaat which is enough to do my front doors and my trunk hatch (completely sealed doors) and then buy the basics I need for wiring from Knukonceptz which is a 1/0 kit, POS battery terminal and three pairs of 2ch RCA's. Option 3- Get the bluetooth car kit and h…

ok so here what I've decided on for total system for my 94 Sundance: H/U:Pioneer 9800BT FRONT STAGE:Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS REAR STAGE:Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS SUB STAGE:Treo SSX15.22 F/S AMP:Soundstream PCX2.440 R/S AMP:Soundstream PCX2.440 SUB AMP:Soundstream PCX2000D Wiring:Xscorpion Batteries:Kinetik HC1400x3 Alt: Ohio Generator 300amp All comments thought and things that should be changed in your opinion would be greatly appreciated thanks.

I wonder if I am gonna use 2000 watts to run a Fi 18" BT, will I need a new HO alt, or new battery, after the fact of the Big 3. Also I want to ask, if I decide to just get rid of my rear 6x9's and just upgrade my front stage will I be able to just put all of the power from the head unit into 2 speakers so that I wont have to run another amp? I also wouldn't mind if someone could help me find a amp that could handle 2000 watts RMS at 1 ohm

so i got a saz 1500d pushing 2 12ssd in a ported box in an 08 impala. i noticed my headlights dim a little on when i turn it up, but my bass knob is all the way down. do i need an extra batt??? and is it alot of work 2 run 1? cuz ill probably just have it done at a shop. TIA

I personally choose the lighter fluid/gasoline way It burned steady for about 10 minutes at this height before shrinking down a bit. (It was filled with some kindling and logs) (The guy next to it is about 6 ft tall) How about the rest of you?

If I were to use the Flanged ports that PartsExpress sells, since i have never used these type of ports before, is it necessary to brace the port inside the box to prevent vibration of the port? IF it is required(4KW+) what you guys recommend me do using 4" aero ports(ports be 4" from the floor). Subwoofer mounting - What do you think is the most secure method of holding down subs. I was thinking about purchasing this foam tape that partsexpress has to prevent air leakage around subs but wanted to do something different rather than just use drywall screws for a high wattage install. I have been looking into t-nuts and hurricane nuts and from reviews i've been reading, …

Buying a 1996 Lincoln Town Car I'm replacing the stock speakers of course but not going overboard this time so I was thinking for the front doors a set of Focal Ca1 # 5" x 7" Access Series Car Speakers # Power Handling: * Peak: 240 watts per pair / 120 watts each * RMS: 120 watts per pair / 60 watts each # All weather woven fiberglass cone woofer # Butyl rubber surround # 1" Aluminum inverted dome tweeter (TN44) # Stamped steel basket # Humidity resistant cone # Rotating tweeter # 4 ohms impedance And the speaker rack in the back a set of Focal 690 cvx # 6" x 9" Focal Polyglass 2-Way Coaxial Speakers # Power Handling: * Peak: 320 watts per pair / 160 watts eac…

0-100 watt consumer class

Help a brother out:

I went to a little car showoff / competition yesterday. This was in no way an actual 'organized' competition. Classes were setup as single subwoofer / double subwoofers / Three + subwoofers. After going through all the contestants, they handed out the trophies and prizes. First up was single subwoofer, my class! They call third place, at a 136.9db (I think i got this shit in the bag for 2nd place and my buddy would get 1st place). Then, they call 2nd place.. NOT me 142.1db. Finally they call my buddy for first place at 148.7db. So. I go up to the sheet and check my name.. I got 144.7db! They skipped my name i guess.. Anyways i told the instructor of the competit…

My amp's been kicking into protect for no known reason, I've checked every possible connection and wire, and undervoltage is impossible, this is an Atomic 800.1 with a Battcap 2000 in the trunk of my car. I put in a tone cd playing 60hz, put a DMM on the 200 AC voltage setting, touched + and - respectively on the amp outputs then turned the HU up until the amp shut down and we're reading 8.4 volts before shutdown 8.4 x 8.4 = 70 watts am I correct or have I completely lost it? Please don't just jump on me for using a DMM, I know it's not the best way, it's just the most accessible way for me to find wtf is going on.

I need an install kit for a '99 Explorer and the harnesses for power and speakers also? Can anyone hook me up. I'm finding little on the net, and the ones I have found, I'm not fond of. Thanks!

SSA posted on facebook about opions on goin overseas

A year or two ago I had a box made by the local shop, I asked them to build it the specs of IA for the LI 15 but I'm doubtful they did so? The port looked and always seemed too small, it doesn't have any L shap as far as the port goes its just straight back and seems too slim...how would I measure the port to see the tuning and determine the total cubic feet? Also by first glance, does anyone think something is wrong here with the port....when I see most other builds by specs they all look a lot bigger...shady shops, only in it for the money smh.. I'll upload some more pictures tomorrow for a better look...

where can i buy 1/0 welding wire by the foot? im looking to use the flexible stuff for power wire!

Hey guys I've been searching around trying to find the answer to this question with no luck. I've seen plenty of topics/build logs where subs are being inverted but no real how-to on the wire aspect which brings me to my question. Do I have to do anything special to the wiring if I want to invert my subs? I slightly remember reading something about needing to change the polarity. Is this true? If so, is there a setting on the amp or do I just switch the neg/pos wires on the amp? This would be the first time I'm trying this. The reason I want to do it is the baskets on my Nightshades are the oldschool sexy chrome and my box is a little on the small side. I hear running the…