General Audio

Im very new to car audio first car with a stereo i have ever owned actually. So i got a deck and some door speakers i wanted to get a good amp sub and box so i went to a local shop and told him i had a budget of about 300 bucks. he went to the back grabbed a dusty memphis street edge 12" (not even in a box) A memphis street reference 1.250 amp. He then told me a box was 50. He said he would take 325 for all of it. I told him to make it 300 after tax he hardely even hesitated and said okay. I thought i was getting a really good deal thats almost $40 that me "took off" rung me up and the prices are listed as Amp 154.99 Sub 72.00 box 50.15 tax (8.25%) 22.86 300 to…

I have always had a decent sound system set up in my vehicle and have been driving for 11 years mostly in the area of Cleveland, OH. We have a high population of white tail, as in many other areas in the Northeast region. Deer have become a nuisance to drivers, as a collision may cause serious damage to your vehicle and possible injury, or death. I always noticed that when I had the woofers turned up at night and exceeding 35 mph, white tail deer reaction to the stimulus of sound was not to fleed, but to remain still on the side of the roadway. I decided to do some research, and possibly try to determine the cause of low and high foreign sounds for a deer to react this wa…

Ok guys I give up! I need your help to completely redo my substage. My goal for my system is to have some loud SQ if at all possible. Want 2 10'' or 1 12''. Only thing I'm keeping from my current stock is my amp which is a PPI PCX 2200. Price range 600-700 Type of music: Hiphop/ R&B Car: 1997 bmw with the fold down seats. Completely starting over with your advice since I can't do it right on my own. Thanks in advance.

I am in a minor dispute here. I was looking to do a 150 trunk set up and I was talking about what I was looking to buy to a few friends of mine. One friend pipes up and says that "I can do 150 ease with 2 12s on 1k sealed in a 2 cube box".......BULLSHIT!!! SO....I am asking you guys who have done it before to please post if you have done it and how so?? i.e. ( what subs, amps, box size, electrical ect) So I can get a better idea of what kinda cash in going to be spending AND to prove him wrong.

Here is a pic of the car My Trunk specs are: Trunk Width: 42.5 Inches Trunk Depth: 28.5 Inches My Goals: To Be Heard from a good distance, clean solid bass coming out of the car, very loud (im sure you got the point) Possible SPL Competitions My Budget: $2500 or less for the amp(s) sub(s) and the electrical upgrade Does Looks of the system Matter? No it doesnt all i am looking for is sound, and bass, not looks of the setup What IS able to fit in my trunk: 3 12" Subwoofers 2 15" Subwoofers 1 18" Subwoofers **obviously anything less will fit too The Material used for the box Fiberboard (any other suggestions for better sound, let me know) What is the system I am looking at…

Got the system up and running and upgrading my alpine mono amp with a sundown 1000d. Sub amp is disconnected right now. Gains on my 100.4 are set very moderately. Around volume 44 on my 800prs my speakers will shut off. There is no pop or to the ear sounds of distortion. I just drove back up to college and did not get any times of cut off. It has happened on both cds and ipod. Could i just be playing it to loud? Also, i have a d3100 up front and the big 3 upgrade with 0 gauge. Any ideas would be very appreciated. Best Regards, Steve

I'm getting ready to go hop on a plane to Florida to sign a contract that should keep my summers pretty busy for the next 4 years. I should get back on Monday morning. I'm gonna go ahead and layout the rings, and get the panels wrapped in fleece. If you don't mind I'm going to take pictures along the way and make a pictorial of my crazy ways of doing things. And post them here, and probably over a caraudio.com as well. If this is okay with you that is

New to the forums, so forgive me if this is in the wrong thread. I'm about to purchase a GCON for my first build in 5 years, and I want to make sure it's done right. So, I'll be running a single GCON-12 in the trunk of my 2007 Honda Accord SE. I've been looking at the RF Prime R1000-1D Amp, which puts out 1000 RMS @ 2 Ohms. Feel free to suggest a better matched amp, just trying to get something for $250.00 or under. http://www.sonicelec...00-1D.html#tabs First question: Since the GCON-12 is a DVC sub, I would need to get the 4 Ohm model (D4) to get 1000 RMS out of this amp, correct? (I realize this is overpowered for the GCON, but I want to have a little overhead fo…

Thought you guys might like this. Not sure if there are any Mac Miller fans in here, but it's a pretty laid-back mixtape. Not any songs I dislike. Mac Miller - Best Day Ever

I'm always looking for ways to improve my daily driver. I am not an audiophile that can tell a whole lot about staging and imaging but I do listen to alot of music that reveals the best and/or worst of a system and I do love clean output at extreme listening levels. I have been pretty happy with my Morel tweeters and Peerless 6.5" mids with passive crossovers (my favorite amp on them to date was a US Amps USA-2000 running at only 8 ohms...extremely clean with a ton of headroom. Anyone have any USA-2000x's for sale? ) Anyway...my problems have been as follows: I burned the coils in the 200w rms Morels once already and had to rebuild them...and the two 6.5 Peerless mids…

Well my dumb ass forgot to lock my car at school and someone stole my frigging tweeters. Luckily they didn't get into the trunk (I have my trunk release disabled) or doors, and I always take my HU faceplate with me. After looking around online I don't think that I want to pay $200 for the Alpine tweeters. I have read that the are most likely Vifa ring radiator tweeters. I want something that I can drop in their place for hopefully less than what the Alpine tweeters are. The location of the tweeter is at the top of my door panel all of the way up front. I was happy with this location withe the Alpine tweeters. Any help is GREATLY appreciated.

I would like somebody to explain to me how Mark gets 143dbs with 1 12" XCON on a khaotik enclosure and the guy from the tahoe only reaches ~156dbs with 4 18s? I mean, I know after certain point, each db requires more than just another amplifier or an extra battery, but I cant understand why the difference is so close. Either the XCON is THAT good or there is something going on with the smd subs Is it that the 18s are in a box that is not spacious enough? or is it that the box needs a redesign? I believe I remember st3ve saying each of the smd subs had 4.65 cubic feet, I think that sounds kinda tight.

My buddies and I were messing around with some of our equipment today and it sounds like there's no difference in output. My friend has a Rockford t1 15 d2 wired to one ohm on a sundown saz1000. Box is 3.0 cubic ft tuned 32-34hz in the back of a 02 Ford explorer. That thing bumps! Very loud and powerful. So I wanted to try the amp on my setup and my other friend wired his sax 125.2 to the t1 bridged at 4 ohms getting 400 watts. Tuned it and they sound virtually the same??? We all were thinking something is wrong with his saz1000 but could there be no audible difference between the two amps? Same song and volume same setup just swapped amps. We're thinking something is wr…

Im looking for a clamp style meter and ebay looks like the cheapest route. Im looking at a couple and would like some opinions on which would work best. Im looking for a true rms digital clamp meter. Immediately I plan on using it on my stereo's, mainly for AC voltage and current, but later for home repair with DC voltage and current. Its not a temporary buy as I want this to last awhile. I was also looking for the one that Jacob used in his testing but couldnt find it. He even posted a link where to buy the exact one. Of course Id like a fluke or a fieldpiece but they are too expensive and Im recently unemployed. Heres the ones im looking at now. The one thats catching m…

From time to time I come across old drivers. A lot of which are so old, finding listed t/s parameters is impossible. So I have started the search for a way to test for t/s parameters myself. Which lead me to parts express and the woofer tester 2. Anybody had any experience with this thing ? How accurate are the measurements it provides ? Is there any other cheaper more accurate way to test t/s parameters ? Any help would be much appreciated. here's a link to the woofer tester 2. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...tnumber=390-802

I'm looking for a 4gauge wiring kit and since I would need fuses, ring terminals etc, I figured buying a complete kit would be my best bet right? What brand do you guys recommend? I was looking www.knukonceptz.com but their kits come with RCA's, and I already have some DB Link RCA's in the truck. I've heard good things about knukonceptz, but that's because they're good quality and cheap, but if you guys don't recommend them let me know. -John

I wonder what wiring diagram for subwoofer to amp? heres pic of sub.. http://projectconcept.com/massive.jpg specs for amp is bxi2008d: 1ohm 2,000 watt 2ohm 1,300 watt.. for Massive subwoofer specs: Weight 61.00 lbs Size 15 Watts 6000 RMS 1500 Cone Carbon Fiber Voice Coil 3.0" Quad 1 Ohm Surround 1" Tall Durax Foam Magnet 200oz Flux Ferrite Y40 Terminals Push-In or Bannana Nickel Plated Basket Aluminum Die-Cast Tinsel Leads Woven Silver Plated X-Max 60 peak to peak SPL 100.1 dB so hope hear from one of u guys thanks..

hi all im wanting to get a system in my truck. its a 2009 chevy silverado regular cab. i need a cd player, subs and amp. im wanting to get all of these for around 600 because thats what i have saved up. i want the subs to get loud and still have a tight punch for all kinds of music. any suggestions to get me started would be great

Hey there, First time here. Looks like quite an interesting site -- I got a lot of reading to do I have a 1968 Camaro that I have a custom system in. I have 2 JL 12" subs in the trunk right now, that are just in a standard sealed box. I am wondering what the best setup would be for my subs. Do I want to keep a sealed box? Do I want a ported box? Do I want them facing away from the passengers or towards them? I have them facing away currently -- as that is what I was always told to do, but then again I see some people mounting their subs inward. Any advice would be great, thanks. Jeff

These tweeter just came out , since I'm done with my sub setup I want to work on my front stage, I'm thinking of getting 2 pairs of these for my front doors. Right now I have mb quart components runing of an amp , it sounds good but I want it louder. So Anyone that has bought and ran these let me know how they sound and work for you.

I've recently installed my sub stage in my 2011 Malibu. 2 sa12's on a saz1500. Box is about 4 cubes tuned low 30's. I'm not blown away by the sound. It's clean and punchy but I'm not getting the blurred vision/nose itching bass I'm looking for. My head unit settings could probably be set a little different but my main concern is the sub orientation. Currently I have subs/port facing rear of vehicle. Everything's bolted down which is why I haven't tried turning it just yet. With the box in the vehicle, back seats folded down and looking in.. Box squeezes in perfect top to bottom. Touches bottom and top. Sides I have maybe 6 inch slots on each side opened up to the rest of…

For those that have not seen my build log which is kind of old it is located here. http://www.soundsolu...og/page__st__30 I am still using 4 old school Rockford Fosgate RFR2215 subs. Since then I decided to do a 4th order wall in my Mountaineer. Just got it in this past weekend and in time for Slamology. Here are a few pictures Design It was designed so I can pull it back out and go back to my ported box if I need to I took this 2x2 support out and used pipe and flanges instead. A lot more strength It was a tight fit but my friend and I managed to lift this box and get it in there. Loading wall and port in Used a pool noodle to seal around the edge of the wall…

whats going on guys, i need a little advise on amps. a month or so ago i finally blew one of my old 12's after years of abuse. i decided to replace them with the kicker 12 inch cvx's(4ohm). problem is the kickers are literally sucking the life outta my old amps, so iv been lookin to up grade them as well. i really like the kicker zx series but its kinda expensive. my question is. i can buy 2 zx750.1 cheaper than a zx1500.1. would this be the way to go? isnt it the same power? witch would cause a larger draw on my charging system? i dont have much experence with mono block amps. arnt u only suppose to use one speaker on one mono block? someone told me to get the 1500.1 …

Like the title says. im looking for a project ride to build a retarded system in. i am looking to compete a little so i want to put good numbers. I am NOT looking for a tahoe/yukon for clear reasons. there is already one out there... i have 4 saz3ks and im going with 4 SSA subs. either 4 18s or 4 15s if need be. I have a 4k-$5k budget for the new ride. i wanted a 94-96 caprice wagon but i cant seem to find a clean one for a reasonable price around here. big body cars in houston are all bought or beat up.

Just wondering because I can't find a metering place around me and I an just curious as to what numbers I'd hit with my set up.