General Audio

I just bought a used JL Audio cleansweep and installed it tonight, but I do not have the calibration cd. If anyone happens to have the CD, could you rip it for me and email it to me. I think the only track I need is #1. My email addy is [email protected]. I would be most appreciative. I know that I can get the CD from JL, but I would like to have the track as soon as possible. Thanks so much!

Thought this was interesting. The guys at ED don't seem to be too worried, but I know the guys at JL and if they contacted me for any reason about pissing them off I'd be damn sure to try and make things right. http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/305

I have an F350 that has captains chairs with center consoles front and rear. The stock head unit is quit acceptable feature wise, and even the door speakers are not awful, the lower frequencies are quite lacking however. I thought a nice clean way to solve the lack of bass might be to put a JL Audio Stealthbox in the center console (preferably the rear one) I don't even know where I can get one (I'm in Kamloops BC Canada). Another option is a "custom made" box with another sub in the center console, or a "truck box" behind the seats ( ick :-/ ). Any opinions? Know how I can get the Stealthbox at a reasonably price? I do have a 10" Cadence Beast subwoofer here not in use. …

Hey all, Ok long story short my buddy came across 2 12" jl audio w6's and the voice coils were blown... he gave them to me thinking i would be able to do somethin with them... 3 months have past and im still sittin on some paper weights... In everyones honest opinion how much could i sell these subs for?

This was brought to my attention in thread on another board. The sub continuous power ratings had changed on the website and a couple poster mentioned that they'd be willing to bet it came from retailers complaining about losing sales because the stuff wasn't rated as high as others, even though you don't have to be a rocket scientist to look at the motor structure and suspension on a 13W6 a know it can handle just a tad more than 500W continous. I was surprised however at how much they had underated their stuff. I always figured it was by 100-150W max, but most of them jumped at least 200W. Anyways, I contacted my buddy JC at Audio Advisors, who are the biggest retailer…

Has anyone seen ?Almost makes me wanna drop out for one just to see what it does...

I found a used JL W7 AE 12" single 3 ohm sub for sale locally and the seller said that it doesn't have the clamp rings which can be found on Ebay for $50. He also said that it has a small scuff on the rubber which I couldn't see in the low quality pics he provided. I have never owned any JL subs. Here are my questions: 1. Is it very hard to install the clamp rings? 2. Is $275 a good price for it? 3. I have a Cadence ZRS-8 amp which is rated at 50 rms @ 4ohm, 750rms @ 2ohm, 1500 rms @ 1 ohm. Will this sub work with my amp?

How do you like those CV subs you are using, those fit nicely into the cheap 10 im looking to get for my friend. He has 130watts rms and a 1cuft sealed box.

i was skimming through ICIX, even though i can't post, and saw your post about the SI Mag, did you get banned yet? LOL....thats funny they brought that thing off topic really fast. And someone needs to tell Haibane to not be lazy and call SI for pricing cause I think he saw the 519$ price and went cheap.

Just incase you hadn't heard yet, apparently John Fairchild (engineer for Tru Tech, among many more accomplishments) passed away recently http://forum.elitecaraudio.com/showthread....37&pagenumber=1

my question is these 15" juggernauts i came across are 1500 rms. i know these are competition speakers and they can handle alot so i was wondering if anybody knows or have seen what kind of amps or power they have pushed them, and how much wattage is needed for them to sound good? they are 1.4 ohm speakers so i dont know if it would be better to go with an 1ohm or 2ohm amp or amps?

Just a ? I had on my mine at work....not like I'm going to do it but in the future I might...."how would you run multiple amps for subs like 6 subs , 6 amps." With out using y split...would you just keep linking the amps or is the something that you can buy and send a signal to that and the other side will send out multiple signals on the other side....I think I just answer my own question....newbie remember that

Name off some high power subs (anywhere above 1000 watts RMS) with a low Fs (below 30 hz) and preferable a 15"

Car Audio System Planning What is system planning? It's the process that keeps you from making costly mistakes and ending up with equipment you don't want or can't use. This is what keeps new people from staying in the audio hobby wasting money that they do not have. Here's system planning for most new car audio shoppers. "My friend just got two fifteens for his car and it booms! I just got the same ones he bought but I bought the new million watt amplifier I saw in the magazines. I also bought a new high end head unit but I want to keep my factory speakers because I don't want to spend too much money." Everything sounds OK until you realize that he drives a Mazda Miata …

With my setup so far my top score is 147.9 @ 32hz. Was wondering if anyone could tell me any quick tips on being louder on the meter without changing power or box? 2004 Dodge Durango. 2 XCON 15s in 4 cubes net each with 160 sq in of port between the two. Amps are RF T1500cp on each sub. Hints, tips, tricks? Im very new to competing. They place the meter in middle of windshield down low near dash if it matters. Thanks in advance everyone! Edit-My second score (last weekend) was a 146.3 @ 35hz. I did have to notch out a little of my box on each corner to fit it properly and of course my stupid ass unloaded the subs after the first show. Would it be warmer weather lowering…

My beef with second skin - DIYMA.com Considering I'd guess it'll be deleted or reworked, I'll quote the thread here. Particularly funny to me since Ant argued with me over the benefits of including the CCF on the MLV a few times. I guess he finally realized.

Just bought a brand new f150 stx with sync looking to put my stereo from my jeep back in the f150 the alpine type r components are probably going in the truck as well as my ppi 4 channel i think im going to sell my kenwood excelon 997 considering how much of a pain it would be to replace the stock and im probably going to sell or trade my dcon 15 and custom ported wedge box for somethkng that will fit under the seats in my extended cab any recommendations would be helpful for loc as well as subs and a box for under the seat that could run off the rear channell of my ppi 800 by 4

Hey guys. I just purchased the 7" Ascendant mids. Hopefully in a few days I will get them and post pics for you all to see.Thanks Bkolfo4 for the sale and customer services.

Ok so I go to my favorite store locally and research what brands they have. I go in today with my list. I wanted 2 jl audio 10w1v3, hertz dieci 6.5" comps, Kenwood x998, all dash kits and that stuff. So they had a big sale this weekend and were out of 10w1v3's and dieci comps. So I end up buying two jl 10w0v3 and hertz energy esk 165.5. I got all my stuff with tax and head unit and dash kit and interface for my truck. $596 total Kenwood x998 $199 jl audio 10w0v3 $75x2 hertz energy esk 165.5 $150 stinger RCA cables Pac dodge interface $65

With the increasing demand for the amazing pioneer deh-80prs and the availability dropping and price on the rise I figured I better get one while I can. Should be a nice compliment to my system. Feel like its only a matter of time before this head unit becomes nearly impossible to get your hands on.

Ok i just rushed and finished up my box not to long ago(too late to listen to it) and the opening of the port is 5.75"(what its suppose to be) but the closing end is 5.25".... Would that make a BIG noticeable difference in sound or should i end myself and the box?? If u need more specs let me know.

this is in a ford king ranch

There are no Termlabs in town I live in Pensacola, FL but the best shop in town uses a Gold-Line SPL 162, which they said that was calibrated to be within 1db of the B&K spl meters. I do not know anything about these meters so I am asking you guys how accurate they are, this shop sells US Amps and RE Audio, Critical Mass and other high quality brands so I figured that the Gold-Line SPL meter would also be high quality since that is how they deal with high quality equipment. Now for the results: Vehicle: 2004 Dodge Durango HU: Kenwood KDC-X891 Subs: 2 AQ 15" HD3's Sub amps: 2 US Amps MD3D's, strapped(2007 models) Song played: Walk it Out SPL score: 151.7 db sealed up o…

So I just bought a matching RE XXX 04-05 motor and I want to either do (2) 12"s or (2) 10"s. I have space in the trunk to provide both enclosures, but a 12" build would suck up every bit of trunk space and I'm afraid of having to built the box in the trunk. I really don't want to do this..My car has 165k on it, and I don't want to have to get a new rear suspension, or struggle with fitting the box through my trunk opening. I suppose I could turn the box and slip it in through the back seat, but sealing off and port forward, subs forwards, and trunk wall are all new to me. I was thinking of doing (2) 10" in about 5 cubes and port back subs back. Slamm…

I had another G35 buddy come to me about a subwoofer setup a few weeks back. Seems he bought one of the prefab enclosures made to fit the trunk of the g35 that they sell on ebay. The problem... Box for 2 10" subs was only .8 cubes gross. He was looking at a few different subs, mainly JL, and was settling on the W3's. I happened to stumble across a great deal on RE SR10's and he ordered them, the nice thing about them is that they can play better than most given limited airspace. Even though the box is a lil tight, they don't seemed choked for air on the lows which i envisioned the w3's to be. Threw in a bit of polyfill to pick up some of the slack there. After woofer dis…