SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hi, I am just about to start my build in my explorer and I have a few questions. I will be running Phoenix gold rsd 6.5 components in the front doors, Soundstream pcs.6.5 3 ways in the back. I have a kicker zx650.4 now the question is what is the difference between active/passive? and do I have the option to do the better sounding one? Also the subwoofer box I will be building I want to put the port inbetween the 2 subs but I don't know how to calculate it that way. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

i designs thes box a while ago and cant remember the specs. my patience have wore thin figuring out the specs, so would someone mind lending my a hand? i need to know the volume and the tuning of the box, (btw, if the width of the port is hard to read its 2 1/4'') thanks in advance

Hey guys. im buildind a new box for the sa8s. my dimensions are 56w 16d 8.5 tall. im shooting for around 35 sq in of port and 2.0-2.2 cubic ft volume. the subs displacment is .10 each driver. i put it into the re calculator ( i know its not exact) but i want the port in the center of the box and not one side or the other but thats not an option. i want the 4 subs facing forward and port back. anybody got some extra time to help me out? much appreciated!! Steve

Well i got my RE comps from the SIN group buy a while back and it has just been these past 4 weekends that i have been working on making some tweeter pods....well actually like 2hrs of work total each day. i am finally up to paint...well here is a look back. Well here is the 2 molds. im not going to go into how to do this because there is already a thread filled with Fiberglass Tutorial Links Stickied. ya i know, the mat wasnt 100% saturated...old resin doesnt like to soak. Streching the fleece glassing the fleece a hole cut i know, not a good mounting andle by any means but we alerady discussed this for like 3 pages in a thread and the RE's have swivle mounts so …

Hi everyone I am about to try my hand at making a box of a different type for the first time. Mainly I'm doing this because it is very interesting to me and also because I can stick this speaker in my girl's car and if it sounds awesome I;m hoping she allows it to take up that valuable "grocery getting" real estate in her trunk. So I'll start here. Vehicle : 2002 Lexus GS300 Location in the vehicle: Trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): 36" x 24" x 22" Subwoofer make and model: Ampere Audio 2.0 8" (spec's below) Subwoofer Size: 8" 300 Watts RMS Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): slot (T-L…

Hello, I have a 15" Icon sub in a (about) 4 ft3 enclosure, tuned to 30something. The port is just a 6" round PVC tube. I know I have not enough port area. It sounds good But, with the same total volume, would it be better to make an enclosure with the kind of port I can see in all the pics here ? I don't remember the name, sorry! I want to get the best of my sub. (I listen to rap, r' n b and reggae, and I have a saz 1000 amplifier).

I have an 08 silverado crew cab, I just bought 4 sd-2 10" shallow mounts and I need to build a 4 cubic foot ported box. I took my backseat out for now so it doesn't have to be complicated, and I am powering them with a saz2500, and if you know anyone that can build a box so I can put the seat back in that would be great too.

I am starting a build for a friend of mine. His goals are a decent amount of bass in a removable package. This will be installed in late model 4-runner. After talking with Brian (BKOLFO4) about some different single driver solutions that would have good output he suggested a single Mayhem 15, and well, kind of going to take his word for it. As for power, I bought a single Cresendo 3500, should be plenty of power. The 4-runner has a decent factory stereo (Nav and all that crap) so we wanted to keep what we could. I picked up one of the new Audio Control LC2i: http://www.audiocont...ol----LC2i.html because I am sick of PAC Trunk LOCs. They are POS's that are nothing b…

Hi all Just wondering if someone could help me design a 4th order bandpass box for my AA chaos 12" ive decided i want this for two reasons. 1 i own a sedan with a sealed off boot and this is meant to be one of the best boxes for this application. secondly these subs are meant to be awesome in 4th order. i plan to port the box through the speaker holes in the parcel tray. ohh the car is a toyota jzx100. ohh i also plan to use this as my daily box. thanks heaps.

not sure if this is the right spot but anyways any of you guys try to fit 1 or 2 of these under the seat of a pick up before? the truck actually is a 2006 F 150 super cab.....dont get it confused with a super crew. Im gonna try and figure out the box today and i just thought of using these i was going to run two 8's ported off 1 SAZ 1500D. im also considering two RE 8's too but i figured the AA would handle the power better than the RE's. Anways the other question i have is how much room is good to have between the cone and the floor of the truck. cuz i know i should beable to fit the RE's in there but the AA's are going to be tight as they are a bit taller in depth t…

I got everything ready to cut untill I forgot... What tall is the mayhem 12". I have it ordered but don't have it yet. On site says mounting depth of 7.75 inches. I don't know what that means.. Help pleaseeee

Has anyone done one of these before ? I reciently picked up a eD e8a and I wanted to try it in one. I found a formula that seems fairly simple to follow. Build a box with 2 chambers, one at 3 cuft and the other one EXACTLY half of that, ie 1.5 cuft. Next cut 3 ports all IDENTICAL in length. Put one in the face of each chamber and the third in the wall separating the two chambers. In this instance each port would be either 12.5" long for a little deeper response or 8" long for a little more SPL. Now you have a box with a big chamber with a vent in it, a small chamber with a vent in it, and a third vent in the wall between the two. The woofer also mounts in the large chambe…

Currently I have a 15" zcon in a 4th order bp ported through rear deck. Going to be getting 2 12" zcons and trying to think of what kind of box to start on. 4th . 6th. Ported with trunk sealed off? Which ever one I chose I'm going to be porting through my rear deck.. I think I can get about 9 or 10 cubes if I pretty much Max the trunk out .which I could do... Just seeing if anyone has any opinions on anything that will help me make up my mind? If you got any questions just ask. Going to be running 4 - 5k. Maybe a little more. Wanting to get started a.s.a.p. thanks.

Ok I'm a newb so this is prob dumb question but I want to make a costome headunit adaptor plate and I have abs, so I was wondering how to put togethor the two pieces

As I begin my adventure in the SQ lanes, I have been doing a lot of research and studying. My general synopsis is, for SPL, in a vehicle, we want the most reflective material possible, such a concrete, or marble, so that there is no loss in energy. Obviously this is not practical, but in this example, it will work. Ok, and for SQ, we want the total opposite, we want complete absorption so that none of the higher frequencies reflect, which can cause interference, overlap, and many other issues. From what I've seen, things such as egg carts, foam, or MLV would be the fix. So what I am asking, what would be the best and most particle material to use in the vehicle for sou…

just wondering how accurate it is or if it is super basic for the noob http://www.accelerator-pedal.com/ported-box.asp

not sure if I should post here or the head unit processing forum so sorry if the wrong place I did a forum search with the word active with no real results I am going to be purchasing a 80prs by pioneer here pretty soon and am very intrigued on what exactly active is does anyone have any good quality sites you could link me to with good information not common rumors or otherwise so I can begin my journey of discovery I don't mean to try and be spoon fed but we all know google isn't the most credible source so I would like to get credible sources from the experts first then after I research those and learn something then I will probably come back to this thread and pick yo…

I've been tryin to find a set that will owkr well together 2 way active.. I think I've come up with it. It will be run off a old sony mobile ES xm-5046 choices (madisound) mid - either SEAS ca18rnx or L18rnx(aluminum) both 7" tweet - SEAS 1" textile dome 27tffn I believe either of these would blend well and work together in a active 2 way.. What do you think?? or WOuld both mids work or would one choice be better?? Thanks, Joe. P

My substage is complete and now I am looking for some midbass/mid/tweeters. I have never used active crossovers but would like to for this build. Any suggestions for something that could keep up with (4) 18"s and 8kwrms. It is going in a suburban so I have all four doors available, plus the possibility of a custom center console. I was thinking about making center console enclosure for the midbass, but found out most mid bass speakers are designed for IB. Are there any that would work well in that style of enclosure? Would PA speakers(seen a lot of people using electro-voice) be a bad idea? Any suggestions or links to similar builds would be appreciated.

alright calm down.. i know the SQ guys are all worked up with sand in thair clams right about now.... i want better sound in my car.. i have some highs and mids but not enough.. i wanna get a cleaner sound. i have 2 bl 15's on a saz 3000d. and then i have 2 sets of 5x7 alpine typr R comps in the doors and in the rear deck. it sounds good at mid to low volume, but when i turn it up to higher volumes the tweeters are steal sounding and the word are ran over a bit by the subs.. its not THAT bad.. if you watch some of my vids you can see that some songs are better then others ...... some sound good.. and then other songs are just blah... i know 5x7s are junk..…

So I have my normal starting bat up front and I'm going to put an additional battery in the rear of the car near the amps. My question is should i run a fuse near the main bat to the 2nd bat as well as in between the second bat and the amp. All in all I don't think an additional fuse would hurt anything and if they power wire ever chaffed through I think I'd be really glad I had a fuse there. any help

ALright, I'm getting to the point of install. I am curious about the whole gain knob deal. I have always just turned it up to where it sounded good, and went on. I remember reading something about matching low level volts? So, anyway, my headunit is a whopping 2volts. - that goes to my Phoenix Gold EQ, which has a built in line driver, adjustable from 1 to 8 volts. Then, back at my Memphis amps, they are able to recieve between 1 and 4 volts. SO..gimmie a run down on how to get this stuff adjusted properly..or is there a link that could tell me and save somebody the typing?

I was wondering how I can properly set and adjustable a LOC with a stock radio and aftermarket amps. Equipment: Stock H/U SVEN LOC Zed Minilith Sundown 100.4 The RCA's after the H/U are going into the Mini and split (y adaptors) to the sundown. The LOC has four individual knobs for setting the input signal. Sorry if this is not enough.

I have a beautiful box that was built specifically for my vehicle. Now im going a different direction with my setup and I want to lower the tune on the enclosure. I have done a little research and I know that decreasing the port width will lower the tune of my enclosure but i will have to sacrifice a little port area to do so. What are the pros and cons of doing this? By the way the enclosure is tuned to 35 hz and i would like to change it to about 30 or 31. I currently have 100 in squared port area.

I'm just curious what are the advantages and disadvantages between TL enclosures, 4th order bandpass, and 6th order bandpass enclosures. These are all very new to me!