SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I know that the guys in Potsdam at Northern Music & Video did 4 winter shows this year, but I was just wondering if anyone was going to do that again this year, or are they going to try to kind of synchonize them with the other shops in the area that are going to be putting on shows?? I mean I know the guys at NM&V will put on their shows, I am sure that Ultimate Edge will do their shows again next season, I know that peteyglad and myself will be doing shows in conjunction with Happy Ear nest year. Just wondering if anyone was doing the winter shows again.

What would be the best way to wire into the box. Best as in the most secure, and most current flow. A friend of mine just drilled holes and fed the wire through, then just siliconed around to seal it up. I have also heard of people driving bolts through and wiring to them. If this will work, what type/metal bolt would be best. My last setup used actual terminals that I got from Sound Advice. I siliconed the back of them in, but not sure if they were secure enough. All advice is appreciated.

Is it possible to wire in multiple computer case ball bearing fans in my car? Is it a matter of taking the black wire and grounding it, but the red power wire, can i just wire it to my distribution block? How will i deal with the voltage? Thinking about mounting amps in a long thin enclosure with plexiglass top and have the fans suck in air on the right side and have the fans suck out air on the right side for ventilation. Maybe ill throw in some neon lights to make it look good. Is this just a pipe dream or can it be done? Any help would be appreciated. TIA

Gains will be set low (to start off, i realize hifonics isn't top of the line, but it'll do the job well even if it is overrated).. so any suggestions on a good wiring kit to buy?

Hey guys i know this is a stupid question but when lowes cuts your wood are the cuts pretty straight. And what do they charge per cut? let me know. i've been having a hell of a time getting straight cuts with my saw and a guide clamp... for the most part they are straight but when the box is all assembled there is always a few corners that are off balance...

I am building an enclosure for my 12 xcon and this is the first enclosure iv ever built so please let me know if i am doing anything wrong. I had my 3/4 mdf cut and i was going to use wood glue and wood screws. when i went to put in the screws into the vertical pieces of wood, the wood split. I tryd every screw i could think of any i couldnt figure anything out.. also how do you screw into the wood after you have just put wood glue on. the wood just slips around when you try to screw?

What's the best way to figure out the displacement for each one of these? They will be about 15.75" long & 1.5" in diameter. I used them on the last build I did for the blazer, and they held strong, and were easy to use. So I'm thinking of using them again with my next one. Thx for the help.

hi, i am thinking about having woodlawn Cabinetry build my box for the 2 12" Icons and i am wondering if anyone has had any experice with them. i would build it my self my i have no tools and he only wants 205 dollers for it and thats with it carpeted and i wanted the baffle to be laminated black.

I have always wondered this and I'm hoping to get it answered. Is there a better way to aim subs? Most people I've seen have had their subs in the front of the trunk aiming to the back of the trunk. But people have also had the subs aim towards the back seats. And I've seen subs aimed to the sky. Is there any advantages to aiming subs to different places? What about the port. Most ports I have seen are right next to the woofer. What if the port was on the side of the box, what about the back? Top? Is this just the way people do it, or is there an advantage of having the port next to the woofer.... Any input is greatly appreciated

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.c...=25&rak=390-802

Hey guys. I recently completed my build using an IA DR12 in 2.2 cubes at 31 hz. My port area right now is 25 in^2. I do get a some port noise on the lower notes in some songs. I was just wondering if I should rebuild a box using more port area. Just not sure if it would make a differance or not. It gets plenty loud right now, I just have had a "what if" idea in my head since I noticed it. Any input would be great. Thanks Tony Nelson

I posted under another topic but calculated the wrong numbers so here is the updated version. The other post topic is misleading so that is why i posted a second time. This should answer any questions of why i posted another topic. I apologize Admin. This link shows the design outline: http://s883.photobuc...re.jpg#comments Here are the numbers: Wedge Enclosure Width: 43" Height: 27" Top Depth: 8" Bottom Depth: 20" Total Volume: 7.885 cb.ft. Port (32Hz) Internal: 20.0"H X 4.0"W X 24"L External: 20.75"H X 4.75"W X 24"L Port Displacement: 1.3689 cu.ft. Woofer Displacement: 0.38 cu.ft. (2 Fi Q 15s) Bracing Displacement: 0.1255 cu.ft. Net Volume: 7.885 - 1.3689 - 0.38 - 0.12…

In my 2003 tacoma single cab and bench seats doubtful i can get two tens ported. Car audio dealer told me it wouldnt sound good with ports on side of box. So am think of one ten ported or two sealed

I've been wanting to start my box build but could not find anyone selling PVC 8" x 20" flare aeroports. I've contacted a guy named Derrick that sells them but have not responded for over a month. I don't want to make my own and would rather buy a kit, and I have already looked at the metal ones but they are pricey. Anybody know where to get them?

What would be the best idea for tuning a box to a sundown audio x15?

Does anyone know what the tuning is of the dual X15 box sundown recomends? And how many cubic ft it is?

i wanna use a 6 inch port tube going up in my car from top of box and sub facing back cup holder whole in seat.I no wat size is optimal for the 10 xcon. But how long would the port have to be. I want to tune around 30. My space to use up (32L) (14H) (14D)

Tomarrow I will build a new box for my new Xcon 12. I have two designs to pick from, one will be 2 cubes at 30hz and other will be 2.4 cubes at 30hz depending how much room I want to give up. (or anywhere in between I suppose) When I first got the Xcon, I put it in the box my Death Row was in. About 2.1 cubes at 31 hz, with 25^2 inches of port. There was definately some chuffing going on. My new box I want more port area. Max height of port will be 12.5 inches (14inch max height for box). Will either do 2.5 or 2.75 inch wide, for 31.25^2 in or 34.38^2in. Will either of these help with the port chuff I experienced with my old box? I know the bigger the better usually…

Ok basically I had an ok box, performed well'ish, ported 2.4ft3 60sq" port @ 33hz, then I made an adaptor to sit over the front and channel the ported box into the cabin via the skii port. This worked a treat and made it much cleaner sounding and changed my tuning down to 27hz. Now, I have a new box finished I payed some $$ for and its 2.8ft3 tuned to 32hz with 50" inch of port, the concern is pretty much straight away below 32hz the sub seems to sort of get stuck in and doesnt excurt properly and have stuff all output also, what is this and what can cause it?? I know it could be a lack of backpressure in the box but the new box I thought was a much better design than m…

I am new to this and replacing my RE SXX 15 worried after a year it sounded cool, but the thing on E40 etc. to long might have to be turned down got a little smell. I have looked at Xcon wanting something lower and only way I could fit an 18" would be in a sealed box, upgrading to try and get more low end, handle Hifonics Brutus 2400 better, and hit all day. It will be one speaker guess everyone seems to call Xcon SQ sub more than Zcon, 15 would bolt in box net slightly over 3.55 aero port 6" might upsize box and run 4-5 4" tune it lower even in current setup probably tune it lower then RE was. I looked at the Zcon 15 because of the better coil and actually sensitivit…

Well my set up starts as this the 18 inch xcon will be going in my rear seat of my 1993 ford mustang gt i already have a cheap 15 inch sub in the hatch (its on its way to being replaced just figuring out with what) so back seat is where the xcon goes Now i have enough space for almost optimal ported box but it cuts visability down a fair bit and this is a daily driver. So my questions are how much sound loss would i loose roughly going with a sealed build as to a ported build ( not really going for sq tho most know xcons sound amazing anways). 2nd ? if i do go ported is there a huge diffrence between going say 6ft^3 affter displacement and bracing as apposed to say 7+ft…

Alright, i was suggested to use the recommended xcon enclosure (7.65 tuned to 30) but sub up and port back apparently is better in the jeep grand cherokees. All i did was move the sub to the top, will this work? Will it load strangely with the port? Or should i just design a new box lol. like so

Hi, just wanted to ask which box would be best for my space and will do the Best Output, I want a box it with a maximum of 4 cubic int. feet. I am going to buy 2 12'' SSA Xcon and I will like to know which type of box (Ported or Sealed) is best recommended for my space and my needs... Thank you.

guess i am looking to do a 1.5 tuned to 34 hz with the sub pointing up. I have a 4" aero port that i would like to use. i would like to keep the depth at about 15" if possible. any help would be great.

Do I have a 12 Xcon and I was wondering the best sub an port placement.