SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I am looking for someone to build a enclosure for my 15" ssa xcon. It needs to be 4 cubic feet tuned to 29hz, i'd like a flared slot port, in a standard rectangular enclosure with dark charcoal carpet, with a rectangular 10" window on the top showing off the insides (which means the insides need to look nice to enough to show off), so what would this run??? any offers? Also to add I would like it to only be 16" in height and no more than 35" in width, and I would like it if you could let me know what the end result on the depth would be?

so im pretty new to going to competitions and competting my subs. i was just wondering if only one has any tips or tricks i could use to help gain dbs?? anything will help i just dont want to go in this competition that is coming up and not know something to help me.. i drive a two door tahoe i have 4 12's ppi pcx subs and i was wondering if i folded down my back seat and moved my subs closer to the front would that help (probably a dumd question but you never know until you ask)

Just trying to get an idea on what kind of screws are best for putting together a big box that is made of 2 sheets of 3/4 MDF stacked. (1 1/2). What about sealer? i know some people use liquid nails, but have heard other people say no way. just maybe some options on this critical piece of high pressure builds.

just broke off the spoiler on my 93 civic hatch with the bass, even caught it on tape. wondering if a new carbon fiber wing will last longer or if it will just break faster?

I can get my whole box to bounce up and down on the really low notes, and the woods vibrates a little more than I want. My box has no internal bracing, and it has a double baffle. 33inches wide x 32 inches deep x 12.75 inches high Now how can I strengthen this box without it taking up too much volume (minimum amount) and without having things poke out on the outside. I would use allthread, but that would cause me to have the end/bolt sticking out of the edge of the wood, which cannot happen because the box fits pretty tight. I was thinking about fiberglassing or using wooden dowels. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks!!!! Note: please don't get into arguments about strength an…

I've had some crappy 12's (MTX RoadThunder) and a 500 watt Bazooka amp since I was 16. I just got a new job and wanna go big. I have a friend who has a DD 10" (2510 I think) hitting 139 db on music with 700 watts. Even though I have more money to work with, I need to keep it as cheap as possible. I really want a 15 and however many watts it takes to get loud as fuck without blowing the sub. -I was looking at FI Btl but its a little high -I know DD is good -I don't know anything about Incriminator. -people have mentioned RE the only ones of these I've seen in action is DD. This is not an SPL build, just a daily driver that I want to be louder than the crap I have now. …

So I have searched a little and really haven't found out much info. I read somewhere that fiberglassing the inside of your enclosure makes it weak. why is this, is it because of the heat and chemicals released during drying and curing? Is it really necessary for a box that will only see a occasional romp on a lane? Please discuss.

some people know that I want to switch my blazer over to sq after I get a car for bass race/db drag so here is what I have so far let me know what you think mids amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm tweeter amp (2ohms) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6743/PCX2125--P...t-Amplifier.htm sub amp (at 1.5ohms) http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/DD_Z1/ head unit ( I have just wanted to try it) http://www.woofersetc.com/p6576/CD7200-mkI...CD-receiver.htm mids for dash http://www.woofersetc.com/p1564/ES400--CDT...;-Midranges.htm mids for door http://www.woofersetc.com/p1566/ES600--CDT...;-Midranges.htm tweeters (a pillar mounted) http://www.wooferse…

My next car is hopefully going to be a 2002 Subaru Sti hatch, and I'm going to wall it with 6 Fi IB3's on a 7k. Pic 1 Pic 2 My first question is, should I build just a baffle, was thinking 9" baffle; or should I build a partial box and with the back seat removed leave the rear open to the trunk and deaden the fuck out of the lid, along with magnetic locks around the perimeter to keep it from slapping? The second smaller question is, I was daydreaming and thought of putting a trapdoor in the trunk floor on actuators to vent to the ground when I'm driving on the highway or at a show for more airflow. Worth it, or just a nice passing thought…

BEFORE AFTER! do you like it?

I recently found my Visonik 12" woofer and i decided to build a box for it. I have ~$120 for supplies so nothing elaborate. My plan is a little under 4cuft (before displacement) tuned at ~26hz. I would like to use aero ports. The woofer is rated at 250rms, but handled 400rms from my RF200.2 like a champ. I have ~140wrms of clean power to play with, from my HT amp (Samsung HT in a box, very nice system for $220, on sale) I am switching it out for the current woofer, the 8" that is currently in the corner. My parents always turn the sub level way down when they watch movies (frustrating lol) So its mostly for my chopped and screwed music, that i can't fit on my iPod shuffle…

Forgot I uploaded these to photobucket Quite the challenge considering it's a crackerbox tracker, that's a manual, and I wear a size 15 shoe. I'll get some more pics when I get back home.

Posted this in the hop since there was some vinyl talk this morn, but need some help in figuring out how to finish the vinyl off after it is stretched and glued to the front. There is no place to "staple" the vinyl to the back of the pods so how would you attach it? I have never done this before, but have some really stretchy vinyl and 3M 77 Spray adhesive (and others, but thought this was best). Any recommendations on how to finish or attach the vinyl to the backside of the tweeter pods? As a reference for size the whole is less than 2" and the edges of the pod are about a 1/4". These will be mounted in the stock sail panel locations.

So, it's getting near that time of the year.... I'm trying to figure just how I'm going to make it to finals this year... check out the sights, installs, and meet a few names. What better time then World Finals? So, dBDrag Finals are Oct 7-9 in Cleveland, OH. I'm definately going to be able to make it here, it's only a 3 hour drive for me. Meet shane, tottie, nick, loyd, tom, pete, iggy, and so on. Anyone else going? So, Usaci Finals are in Kansas City, MO Oct 15 & 16th. I'm going to try to make it down there, as I can get flights for ~$250 so far. Meet Matt, Mike, Justin, so on. Anyone else going? -Nick

Ok well I'm building my new box for one SA-12 it's gonna be 2.48 cu. before port and sub displacement.I'm gonna use one 4" aeroport.It's gonna be sub back port side going in a trunk car tell me what ya'll think?

Lets see em guys. I wanna know how you guys cram bass into these small areas. Post pics of your single cab setups: amps, speakers, whatever...

I am in the process of selecting drivers for a 3-way active setup in my car. I drive a small four door sedan. My design goal is to achieve a realistic soundstage. I will not be using rear fill. I will be using two 12" subwoofers for the substage. For processing duties I will be using a JBL MS-8. I had tossed the idea of using HLCD's but I realize that that maybe more difficult than what I have the patience for I do not have time to 'glass kick pods or build crazy door pods. So the install of these drivers will be somewhat simple but I realize that I may need to do a little fabrication. All drivers will be aimed accordingly. But generally this is where the placement will…

98 Pontiac gtp (1) SSA ZCON 15 BC2000D for power Have big three done in 1/0 welding cable same for power and ground 250a singer alt 36"W X 15"H X 28"D is my max space to work with Thinking I want tuning around 35hz slot port All opinions are appreciated Let me know if I left anything out Thx guys

I have an 08 cheny crew cab I would like to build an enclosure to go under the rear seat that will hold one BL 12"ran off of one T1000 fosgate amp this will be a daily application I will have to raise the seat to make it fit I will be raising the seat 4" the area I will have to work with would be best described as a wedge style box 55"w , 16"H , 8 "--9" D1, and 11" D2 Can anybody help me with die mentions for an enclosure for this application and ideas were the port should go and how large to make it I would lik to make this an up fire with the port coming out the front

Hey guys. I need a little help designing a ported enclosure for my new Crystal CMPx2 15". It's going to go in the trailblazer for now. I listen to nearly everything so I'm looking for a good daily build. I could be off but I'm thinking I want to tune somewhere between 31-33Hz so I can get some lows. My size limitations are 46" wide x 16" high x 14" deep. I have a little wiggle room on height and depth, but I'd like to keep as much space as possible in the Trailblazer. I will post T/S parameters below and I expect to be running at 1500+ watts with maybe a little headroom, probably going to just grab a RF T1500bdcp, unless I get a better deal on something else. I'd really…

I hope there are a lot of wall or has-been wall users out there that can contribute to this thread. I'd like to see some suggestions for wall users on increasing their spl potential. I am about to seal my wall up soon so after i do, won't be too much more moddin possible in that area of the car. I'm lookin for 155s hopefully. I'm wanting to stay in Modified 3 in MECA and i am assuming they'll qualify me for that class... I have a scion tc with a wall behind the b pillar about 5 inches back. I will be using 1 60A fuse for each of my 2 3500ds. I am wide open to suggestions to get louder.... I have yet to meter myself the MECA way but in the driver kick i did 151.7 clip-fre…

I would Love to hear from a few people that have used Luxury liner pro. I have 4 sheets of LLP. I bought the LLP with the plans of installing on the front floors and under the front door panels. If I have any left I plan on the front of the rear wheel wells. The box will be forward firing with the trunck sealed off. I have already dampenered the inside of the car. My goals are to lower the highway road noise and just to lower the noise floor of the car. I realize every application is differant but would like to hear what results and experiences some people have had with the LLP. I have used the search function with no luck and also went to the SS forum but them guys a…

As most of you know i am doing an imc plan for an audio enclosure company. During my research i read that cars equipped for SPL cannot play normal music. I want to know if that is true. I need to do a a technolgy review and i want to mke sure i know the difference between systems designed for SPL vs systems designed for SQ.

i know ive been asking a lot of questions but ive finally decided on all my equipment the only thing left is getting the box right. it will be a 12" type r fifth gen on an audioque 1200. ive built aero port boxes before but never a slot port. ive always done it with a single sub setup having the sub behind the passenget seat and the aero port out the side on the driver side. the box will be around 1.75^3 to 2.0. im just wondering the best box to get full potential out of the setup

Just finishing up a ported box I did for my Icon 12's. Still have to cut out the woofer holes. They'll be facing up. Anyone have some suggestions on how I should finish it? Stain, paint, carpet? Port painted white? Or stained? Any ideas appreciated.