SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey fellas quick question, I was talking to co-worker and he was telling me about Obcon subwoofer enclosures. So I looked them up. They are using a concept called labyrinth porting. I ordered a Sundown SA-12D2 a few days ago and the recommended eclosure size is 1.75^3 tuned to 30 hz. The box I'm looking at is 1.8^3 tuned to 38 hz. Has any used these enclosures or heard some one that was using them. If so just wondering what your opinions or impressions of them are. Your opinions are valuable to me because of everyone's knowledge on this forum. Thanks ahead of time for any opinions. Also if I decide to go sealed would it be ok to run a slighly larger than recommended seale…

there is no information on their site, anyone know where I could find the info or who to email? I want to put these in a box up against the incomming 4 Funky Pup 8s

not...pics coming soon, as soon as the bleeding stops... Well i got my MDF...while hauling it into the garade because it was starting to rain i tripped on my Floor jack, sliced my foot pretty deep, and got traped under a 50lb sheet of MDF.... well needless to say it was funny to me, untill i realized how bad my foot was bleading... 2paper Towels and a gauze pad later 2 more gauze pads later and a small bandaid and 2 hot pink bandaids later.... well once the bleeding stops completely (its starting to seep fomr under the bandaids...i hope i dont need stiches) and i finialize my enclosure plans (ive gone with my original idea, dual upfiring ports...screw it...) ill start …

So I have heard to get optimum spl out of my box and best proforance out of my sub I would have to find the resonant frequency of my car. So I fired up the SSA forum seachers and i didn't come across so I imediatly fired up the google machine and did some seaching and here is my findings: I can use math by: Now you measure the distance from the cone to the meter(the whole path it takes). remember the soundwave comes out of the front of the cone at 90 degress(straight) and out the back at 180. once you get the distance from the cone to the meter placement in inches, you divide that into 13,560. you will probobly get a high number, which is suspected. Since its 90 degrees, …

It seems to me like BL (typically measured in Tesla meters) would be a good indicator of motor performance and overall subwoofer ability. With that said, I am supprised that numerous woofers that people commonly call, good strong subs have a fairly low BL in comp to other subs. Subjectively strong subs (by overall consumer babble) Image Dynamics IDMax Bl about 10 Jl Audio W7 series BL about 10 MTX 9500 series BL about 10-20 depending on model SS RL-P BL over 20 So is the SS motor twice as strong as a motor rated at 10TM, or am I completely off base. How do BL and RE interact, it seems that BL would be a constant bc its …

alright i have a 2001 honda accord coupe, and am looking into buying a new ride. im not sure whether to be looking into another trunk installation, SUV, or hatch. I have a diamond audio d915d2, a us amps AX1000de amp, alphasonik components with a us amp merlin md41 powering them. i am looking for basically a realiable wehicle that will be the best for a LSQ system. looking to pay around $20k or less, or if i should stick with the car i have now. dont have an enclosure yet, but will build for respective car. (if keeping the accord i will be making a fiberglass corner enclosure), and i may also be doing this for any other car i may purchase. something sporty, and that…

The goal of this topic is to discuss the possible effects fiberglassing the inside of a subwoofer enclosure has on the sound? I am currently building my enclosure and am using fiberglass to make the box more ridged, prevent air leaks, prevent flexing, raise the boxes failure point of the box, and I just like building things heavy duty. I honestly never thought about the fiberglass effecting the sound until Pork Chop brought it up last night. I used the search function but did not find anything about effects on sound from fiberglassing an enclosure. I would like to hear some opinions about this from people that have experience with a fiberglassed sub box. I would also …

Hey all, Ever wondered, what weight chop mat should I use? What resin do I need? How much hardener (MEKP) do I need to add to the resin? What is it is hot? What if it is cold? Whats the best way to use fiberglass and add strength to something? Wonder no longer my friends... As i gear up for my door pod build I have been amassing some more fiberglass fabrication products. These products are typical of what you would see in any car audio install that involves fiberglass show I wanted to share them with you, along with an explanation of each and some answers to questions I see repeatedly online! Enjoy! Also, here is a wonderful table that allows you to better un…

never heard or owned a 4th order, but id like to spend weekend building one for my sundown x10. Can anyone help me out with this? maybe help me with some designs or advice. i have it in a 1.6 cube slot ported box tuned at 34hz. sealed off from trunk firing into cabin. for my tastes it is not tuned low enough, i was going to snatch everything out and go with a 2 cube box at 30hz. but ive been reading about 4th orders and im really interested in them now. would a 4th be ok for a daily with this sub? goes in dodge charger so i have plenty of trunk space, and can provide max deminisons if needed. i also have the sub specs if it helps. ive read to go with the 2:1 ratio with …

I just bought 4 sheets of 40x55 at 1/8" thick(or something like that) of nuprene off of ebay for 40bucks. Supposedly its used in boeing airplanes and such. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT Does anyone know anything about it? it's got to be worth over a buck a square foot so I'm not really worried about getting ripped off. Once I get it I'll let you guys know what I think, should work well in a car. but I doubt that dynamat used that statement the guy had in his ad. thanks, b

ok so i've got an sp4 15 on the way. its going in the trunk of a 94 lincoln mark 8. i've built a box already thats a tight fit to get into the trunk and its only 3.5ft^3 tuned at 33hz. ive got plenty of trunkspace left the problem is getting anything bigger thru the trunk opening. so im coming to you guys for help/tips for building in the trunk. so what would be the easiest was to assemble in the trunk?

Just put my old Alpine 9831 back in, when i turn the ignition over I get the loudest pop ive ever heard, all door speakers and sub real loud. Im thinking its the ground on the HU but im not sure. The wireharness for this HU is kind of ghetto, I got it off of ebay and there was no remote wire, so im pulling of the switched wire. Heading out to ground it better, what do you guys think it could be? Ive had the HU hooked up in the car before but never with an amp. the internal amp on hte HU is blown FYI, not that it matters much.

Hello everyone. I am redesigning my enclosure for my 15" ethos for different mounting options. When I use the Torres calculator I am using the total net feature with 3 cu ft and also 3 common walls since it is a slot port. Using a port that is 4x18.5 at 56" long gives me a tuning of 31.94 hz and 74 in2 of port. Then when I use the same size port in the carstereo.com calculator it tells me 48.5" of length is required to give me 32hz tuning. So my question is which one should I use. In sketch up I am designing the port by measuring down the center. Thank you in advance for the help.

Hey everyone. I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how the freq of a box affects the sound, like what a low freq is good for and how it sounds along with a higher freq? Also, when the inside corners/edges of the box are angled, will that give you better spl? And I was thinking of sanding the edges on the outside of the box to a curve to make them round instead of a straight edge...is that a bad idea? Thanks in advance, Jack3d **Any help is always appreciated

Just finishing up a ported box I did for my Icon 12's. Still have to cut out the woofer holes. They'll be facing up. Anyone have some suggestions on how I should finish it? Stain, paint, carpet? Port painted white? Or stained? Any ideas appreciated.

I'm starting a new build for my two DP 21"s in my Expedition, and I'm looking for some ideas. My ideas are in the above poll. Right now I have a subs up, port back setup. Current box is 20 cubes with 300 sq. inches of port at 32Hz. I'm looking at about the same volume and tuning for my wall as well. Possibly tuned a little lower, I loves my lows. The wall will be to the b-pillars. I'm basically looking to get as loud as possible on music, but this is for daily, so it's not going to be a burp monster. All votes, comments, and suggestions are appreciated.

Hi, I am curious as to what the best way it is to have the system not be choked up in a trunk. currently my box leaves about 4-5 inches of room between it and the side of the opening that goes into the cabin from the trunk. so thats the only gap there is between the trunk and the cabin, unless you count the rear deck, but that doesnt let much air through. so im designing a new enclosure to fix this problem, now my question is, is it better to have space for air to flow above the box or on the side of the box? this will be for a sinlge 12" BTL, and if i do it with the airspace above the box i will have about 3 inches tall by around 28-30 inches wide of a gap between the …

I can get my whole box to bounce up and down on the really low notes, and the woods vibrates a little more than I want. My box has no internal bracing, and it has a double baffle. 33inches wide x 32 inches deep x 12.75 inches high Now how can I strengthen this box without it taking up too much volume (minimum amount) and without having things poke out on the outside. I would use allthread, but that would cause me to have the end/bolt sticking out of the edge of the wood, which cannot happen because the box fits pretty tight. I was thinking about fiberglassing or using wooden dowels. Any suggestions/advice? Thanks!!!! Note: please don't get into arguments about strength an…

Alrighty soo I've been wanting to do my own custom install for a while now. I wanted to acheive a more compact design- one that didnt take up much trunk space, was easy to remove if needed and that was still loud enough and cool looking to not only make me happy, but impress my friends too. Thus came the idea of the sono tube! With the design concept settled, I started looking for the perfect sub to make all the magic happen. I wanted something beefy, but in a 10". After some research, I ended up going with tcsounds oem tc10 and their matchin passive radiator (which might I add is one sexy little thing!!). http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachment...uild-d-cone.jpg http…

hey guys, i have a 18" fi q with bp power. im running it off of a 1600 rms hifonics amp. i have it in the back of a focus hatchback in a 6.3 cubic foot box tuned to 28 hz after displacement. my question is, if i take my backseat out i can build a bigger box. i dont use my backseat much so idc about that lol but say i built a 8 cubic foot box and tuned it the same, would there be any difference? if so what would the difference be besides no backseat?

I am running 2 18s walled off in my 2002 grand prix. Before I took the 18s out I was doing a 157. I am looking for a component set(I believe stock size is 5.25) so that I can hear my mids and highs over my subs. I am aiming for slightly louder next year as well. Going to try to break that 60 mark. I am not looking to do much fabrication wise so I would like to stick with stock size. I will make a cutout for a super tweeter if that is something someone recommends. I have looked and hunted around a ton, but can't really figure out where to start and what to look for. Any help would be appreciated.

Hey everyone first off I'm new to the site so I would like to say hi. Now I have a 2006 impala and I have a fi bl 12 and I had a fully costom box build that is right at 2 cubic feet and is tuned at 33hz potted through the trunk deck. Now the sound is horrible so atomatically I think it's the box but my buddy has the same size box and same size port that was taken out of a mozda rx8 and it's just sitting in the bak of a Mazda b2200 and we put the sub in that box and it freakin pounds. We took his treo out and put in my box and it has good sound. So my question is why in the world does the fi not sound good? I have had it in boxes that load up in the truck and sound amazing…

So maybe I'm confused and doing this wrong but I haven't had trouble before. I've been modeling a pair of BL10's based on T/S parameters from the website. I've been told that they work great tuned low for a flat response but they seem to model great on 2.16 cu ft each at 31 Hz. Actually when I run them at 24-26Hz they kinda look like shit. Am I doing something wrong? Or does the 31Hz tune look fantastic for a build? The blue line is 2 drivers in 4.327 cubic feet at 31Hz

We have been consistently beating Experts in the top class with unlimited resources. We of course are on a budget. We have over 45 years combined experience between the 2 of us and started out in SPL. We are competing with the current world and SBN iSQc championship vehicle. In the works is my 1988 Red S10 BlaZa to compete in the 159.9 class and win SQ at the same time. below is 10 years ago below is door panels from us in 1992

I am designing my wall in my 95 Lumina, It is a four door Sedan. The wall will go up to the front seats. I was planning on making the port on the drivers side Vertically with two 18's like so On the other hand my father said it would be better to do the port on the top or the bottom with the woofers above the port. Is this true?