SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So last time I entered an spl I tied a guy with two 10" solo x's and a rockford fosgate t3000, and there's another in 2 weeks and im sure he will be there. I dont want to risk damaging my sub by upping the gains or voltage any more than i did last time, but perhaps i can adjust the box/ place it in my car differently? The box is a little over 4^3 at 31, and it is about a foot back in my trunk facing into the car. Only ideas i have now are putting 45's in my corners to help flow and raise tuning, and face the sub towards the trunk. Are there any little tricks anyone knows about to give me just a .1 or .2 db gain?

As the title says, has anyone ever built a steel enclosure? Does it sound any different? Just curious if its been done, if anything was gained, etc. This is more geared for spl

My current box is 36"x16"x28" tuned @30 for 2 icon 12's.slot port.My question is would I benefit from building a new box with the port centered between the subs and fire the port thru the rear arm rest.Back seats don't don't drop down.98 pontiac gtp.

Sup guys...we're having a compeition coming here on the 6th...it'll be on DBTV so check it out!! I won't be using my car...I'll be using a friends Durango. Going to use a Orion H2 15.2 and a 2500D. Basically building the system for this comp because that would never fit in my t-bird. I'll start posting pics as I build the system and will post results and some video on what I hit on the 6th. Any guesses?? I"m thinking low 140's....I have no clue what it'll do. HCCAfan are you currently running H2's?

I'm running 1 SSA DCON in a 2.3ft^3 ported box at 31hz, its down firing in a 02 GMC sierra on a Diamond Audio 400.1. It just doesn't seem to hit the low low notes like my last subs, I dont know if its because its ported and they were sealed or if its the Subsonic filter or what, just looking for suggestions. I can feel the lows and the port fires like a hurricane, I just can't hear them that well, it seems to be only below around 30hz, for everything else it slams, and seems to play everything accurately.

alright i have a 2001 honda accord coupe, and am looking into buying a new ride. im not sure whether to be looking into another trunk installation, SUV, or hatch. I have a diamond audio d915d2, a us amps AX1000de amp, alphasonik components with a us amp merlin md41 powering them. i am looking for basically a realiable wehicle that will be the best for a LSQ system. looking to pay around $20k or less, or if i should stick with the car i have now. dont have an enclosure yet, but will build for respective car. (if keeping the accord i will be making a fiberglass corner enclosure), and i may also be doing this for any other car i may purchase. something sporty, and that…

I am ready to buy enclosure design software, I want all the features available. I am thinking of buying Term-Pak. With Term-Pak I can later purchase Term-LAB meter as well. Term-Pak includes Term-Pro and Term-CAD 3D. Is this the best that is available? It looks like it was written in the early 90's.

Alrighty soo I've been wanting to do my own custom install for a while now. I wanted to acheive a more compact design- one that didnt take up much trunk space, was easy to remove if needed and that was still loud enough and cool looking to not only make me happy, but impress my friends too. Thus came the idea of the sono tube! With the design concept settled, I started looking for the perfect sub to make all the magic happen. I wanted something beefy, but in a 10". After some research, I ended up going with tcsounds oem tc10 and their matchin passive radiator (which might I add is one sexy little thing!!). http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachment...uild-d-cone.jpg http…

there is no information on their site, anyone know where I could find the info or who to email? I want to put these in a box up against the incomming 4 Funky Pup 8s

my buddy steve has a pair of audiobahn aw120q (12") what would be the optimal airspace and port tunning for them thanks chop

not...pics coming soon, as soon as the bleeding stops... Well i got my MDF...while hauling it into the garade because it was starting to rain i tripped on my Floor jack, sliced my foot pretty deep, and got traped under a 50lb sheet of MDF.... well needless to say it was funny to me, untill i realized how bad my foot was bleading... 2paper Towels and a gauze pad later 2 more gauze pads later and a small bandaid and 2 hot pink bandaids later.... well once the bleeding stops completely (its starting to seep fomr under the bandaids...i hope i dont need stiches) and i finialize my enclosure plans (ive gone with my original idea, dual upfiring ports...screw it...) ill start …

Just finishing up a ported box I did for my Icon 12's. Still have to cut out the woofer holes. They'll be facing up. Anyone have some suggestions on how I should finish it? Stain, paint, carpet? Port painted white? Or stained? Any ideas appreciated.

Hi, I am curious as to what the best way it is to have the system not be choked up in a trunk. currently my box leaves about 4-5 inches of room between it and the side of the opening that goes into the cabin from the trunk. so thats the only gap there is between the trunk and the cabin, unless you count the rear deck, but that doesnt let much air through. so im designing a new enclosure to fix this problem, now my question is, is it better to have space for air to flow above the box or on the side of the box? this will be for a sinlge 12" BTL, and if i do it with the airspace above the box i will have about 3 inches tall by around 28-30 inches wide of a gap between the …

Okay, sorry I can't upload pics of my fiberglass project right now (I'll try later) but I had a question. The situation -didn't use enough hardner on the fleece and it was still gooey when I came back 24 hrs later. -I tried just smearing plain hardner on the sticky resin and that seemed to work okay -then I made my next batch of resin pretty hot (meaning lots of hardner) and layed two layers of 1.5oz. Now the fiberglass is as stiff as normal and when I stick my hand in the box and move it around I don't get anything wet or sticky, but its still smells like resin really bad (its been dry for 20 hrs) The questions: "how long does resin continue to smell." "Does a complet…

Well I sat down tonight thinking I have most things ordered, I may want to double check my trunk space. I re measured and I was off a few inches on the height. My trunk space is 40W by 42depth by 18 high. This will give me about 14.07 cubic feet of total area. Now if I were to build a box and have it exactly 6 cubic feet with an external port to save room this would leave me with 8 cubic feet remaining. I have a feeling I may not have enough air flow to keep a 18 BTL in the trunk ($^%@). I do (i think) have enough room to store one but I would be starving it for air. I measured one of the seats and its about 2.5 feet by about 4 feet in height. I could lower the back to al…

As most of you know i am doing an imc plan for an audio enclosure company. During my research i read that cars equipped for SPL cannot play normal music. I want to know if that is true. I need to do a a technolgy review and i want to mke sure i know the difference between systems designed for SPL vs systems designed for SQ.

Hey guys I built a box for my zv5 15 and used an 8" sonotube because of the port area and how aero port don't take up as much air space as a slot. A buddy of mines saw my set up and questioned if that port was too big for my box. i came to the conclusion of using and 8" port by doing some math and finding the port area. Which is 50" a little less than the recommended port area on the sundown website. But I'm assuming that's a slot port and I've read areonports require less port area than a slot so I guessed I was in the green. But after my friend brought it up I researched and found a site that said 6" is good for a 3.5 to 4.5 box. So I'm here asking for your …

Hey guys I’m building a sub box for a friend. He has a 98’ Camry and wants to fit a 15” T1 in there. My question is what’s the best sub orientation for a trunk setup. I have Sounds in my Altima but I got port and sub firing into the cabin. My friend doesn’t wanna leave his seats down so he asked to have it both firing backwards. Is subs and port back best for a trunk set up? Or is sub up port back works better? I even seen people saying sub up port to the side is really good. But I’m building the box the total usable width so I don’t wanna fire the port right against a wall. Thanks for the input as always guys.

Just put my old Alpine 9831 back in, when i turn the ignition over I get the loudest pop ive ever heard, all door speakers and sub real loud. Im thinking its the ground on the HU but im not sure. The wireharness for this HU is kind of ghetto, I got it off of ebay and there was no remote wire, so im pulling of the switched wire. Heading out to ground it better, what do you guys think it could be? Ive had the HU hooked up in the car before but never with an amp. the internal amp on hte HU is blown FYI, not that it matters much.

I just got my Fi Q 12" back from getting reconed and now I want to build a ported box. I've never built a ported box and wanted to see if these numbers were right. I downloaded the torres box calculator thing and punched in some numbers that seem to work, but I'm not positive if it's right or not. I have a maximum of 30" W, 15.5" H. Depth has no limit but I'd like to keep it a minimum. I just want a good daily box and was basing this off Fi's recommended 32hz.

I was wondering if the port calculater on the carstereo.com page was worth a poo? I used it to build my explorer (8 kicker comp 12"s and a 2500.1) as that worked out perfect......but i used it to build my 4runner (2 hk802sx amps, and 4 SSD 15''s loaded) and it doesnt impress me at all....so i think i figured out why.....here is the link to the page http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 But here is my real question...when you are calculating your port.....and you punch in all your factors and the end result tells you how long your port should be.....Does this program already remove the port displacement? Im assuming it does since you have to figure in your tota…

I know Trupan is lighter, but more expensive, has anyone used it and how did you like it over MDF? Does it "sound" different?

Will be built in car in this area. Slot port on drivers side, sub and port firing into cab, sealed off from trunk. This is what I've come up with, but how do I figure the 90 for the length of L port? Thanks in advance.

Hey All , so I've got an Termlab , RTA software also included , but there's no mircohpone when I ordered the RTA software it wasnt clear to me I needed te mirophone so I'm missing a piece , I can measure but Termlab selects the laptops own microphone this is FAR from ideal ! so I could order the termlab mic , but I was wondering if there are any preferably cheaper and "as good as" alternatives would Alpines mic work for instance ?

I am going to build a sealed box for 2 dc level 3 15s and i want to know how many cubic feet should be in each chamber.