SPL & SQ / Fabrication

My current box is 36"x16"x28" tuned @30 for 2 icon 12's.slot port.My question is would I benefit from building a new box with the port centered between the subs and fire the port thru the rear arm rest.Back seats don't don't drop down.98 pontiac gtp.

Well i got my RE comps from the SIN group buy a while back and it has just been these past 4 weekends that i have been working on making some tweeter pods....well actually like 2hrs of work total each day. i am finally up to paint...well here is a look back. Well here is the 2 molds. im not going to go into how to do this because there is already a thread filled with Fiberglass Tutorial Links Stickied. ya i know, the mat wasnt 100% saturated...old resin doesnt like to soak. Streching the fleece glassing the fleece a hole cut i know, not a good mounting andle by any means but we alerady discussed this for like 3 pages in a thread and the RE's have swivle mounts so …

98 Pontiac gtp (1) SSA ZCON 15 BC2000D for power Have big three done in 1/0 welding cable same for power and ground 250a singer alt 36"W X 15"H X 28"D is my max space to work with Thinking I want tuning around 35hz slot port All opinions are appreciated Let me know if I left anything out Thx guys

As the title says, has anyone ever built a steel enclosure? Does it sound any different? Just curious if its been done, if anything was gained, etc. This is more geared for spl

I just bought 4 sheets of 40x55 at 1/8" thick(or something like that) of nuprene off of ebay for 40bucks. Supposedly its used in boeing airplanes and such. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP..._Pr4_PcY_BIN_IT Does anyone know anything about it? it's got to be worth over a buck a square foot so I'm not really worried about getting ripped off. Once I get it I'll let you guys know what I think, should work well in a car. but I doubt that dynamat used that statement the guy had in his ad. thanks, b

I just picked up a NIB sw9122 and all that was in the box was 1 page of the owners manual and the mounting hardware. So I need to know what works good for a ported enclosure? How many cubes, freq., and port area? It will be running off a Audio Art 100hc, so in the neighborhood of 1000W. I am thinking somewhere 2-2.25^3 ported to 32hz but not sure on port area, seems this sub will move a lot of air.

Alrighty soo I've been wanting to do my own custom install for a while now. I wanted to acheive a more compact design- one that didnt take up much trunk space, was easy to remove if needed and that was still loud enough and cool looking to not only make me happy, but impress my friends too. Thus came the idea of the sono tube! With the design concept settled, I started looking for the perfect sub to make all the magic happen. I wanted something beefy, but in a 10". After some research, I ended up going with tcsounds oem tc10 and their matchin passive radiator (which might I add is one sexy little thing!!). http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/attachment...uild-d-cone.jpg http…

So after using the Torres' box calculator I have come up with these panel sizes Sub diameter: 14.125” Top: 33 x 16 Bottom: 33 x 16 Sides: 15 x 14.5 Front: 33 x 15 (double baffle) = .21cubes disp Back: 33 x 15 ________________ According to the calculator I am left with 3.55 cubes for a sealed enclosure... Does that sound right? The lumberyard near me said they could make the cuts for me.... Any quick and calculated responses are much needed... Thanks -Danny

Hey fellas quick question, I was talking to co-worker and he was telling me about Obcon subwoofer enclosures. So I looked them up. They are using a concept called labyrinth porting. I ordered a Sundown SA-12D2 a few days ago and the recommended eclosure size is 1.75^3 tuned to 30 hz. The box I'm looking at is 1.8^3 tuned to 38 hz. Has any used these enclosures or heard some one that was using them. If so just wondering what your opinions or impressions of them are. Your opinions are valuable to me because of everyone's knowledge on this forum. Thanks ahead of time for any opinions. Also if I decide to go sealed would it be ok to run a slighly larger than recommended seale…

So I have heard to get optimum spl out of my box and best proforance out of my sub I would have to find the resonant frequency of my car. So I fired up the SSA forum seachers and i didn't come across so I imediatly fired up the google machine and did some seaching and here is my findings: I can use math by: Now you measure the distance from the cone to the meter(the whole path it takes). remember the soundwave comes out of the front of the cone at 90 degress(straight) and out the back at 180. once you get the distance from the cone to the meter placement in inches, you divide that into 13,560. you will probobly get a high number, which is suspected. Since its 90 degrees, …

The goal of this topic is to discuss the possible effects fiberglassing the inside of a subwoofer enclosure has on the sound? I am currently building my enclosure and am using fiberglass to make the box more ridged, prevent air leaks, prevent flexing, raise the boxes failure point of the box, and I just like building things heavy duty. I honestly never thought about the fiberglass effecting the sound until Pork Chop brought it up last night. I used the search function but did not find anything about effects on sound from fiberglassing an enclosure. I would like to hear some opinions about this from people that have experience with a fiberglassed sub box. I would also …

well..just got back... took second in the local class with a 144.4 outlaw on the new tl using my orion. lost to a box i built,lol, in a grandprix..two eclipse ti 12's (one blown), two memphis 1500d's, two optima's and iraggi alt..145.6. the local class was a run what u brung sorta thing...so my stock electrical system (save the big three and redtop optima) was my downfall mostly i believe as my voltage drops are huge! but at least i lost to my own enclosure..lol! and helped a friend to a 147.6 with 4 memphis pr 12's and an american bass amp...and a first in his class, 0-300 stock. time for a new system... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Hey all, Ever wondered, what weight chop mat should I use? What resin do I need? How much hardener (MEKP) do I need to add to the resin? What is it is hot? What if it is cold? Whats the best way to use fiberglass and add strength to something? Wonder no longer my friends... As i gear up for my door pod build I have been amassing some more fiberglass fabrication products. These products are typical of what you would see in any car audio install that involves fiberglass show I wanted to share them with you, along with an explanation of each and some answers to questions I see repeatedly online! Enjoy! Also, here is a wonderful table that allows you to better un…

never heard or owned a 4th order, but id like to spend weekend building one for my sundown x10. Can anyone help me out with this? maybe help me with some designs or advice. i have it in a 1.6 cube slot ported box tuned at 34hz. sealed off from trunk firing into cabin. for my tastes it is not tuned low enough, i was going to snatch everything out and go with a 2 cube box at 30hz. but ive been reading about 4th orders and im really interested in them now. would a 4th be ok for a daily with this sub? goes in dodge charger so i have plenty of trunk space, and can provide max deminisons if needed. i also have the sub specs if it helps. ive read to go with the 2:1 ratio with …

Linked... http://forums.caraudio.com/vb/showthread.php?t=120381 just wanted to spread the word in case you didn't see the pics!!! NG

Hi, I am curious as to what the best way it is to have the system not be choked up in a trunk. currently my box leaves about 4-5 inches of room between it and the side of the opening that goes into the cabin from the trunk. so thats the only gap there is between the trunk and the cabin, unless you count the rear deck, but that doesnt let much air through. so im designing a new enclosure to fix this problem, now my question is, is it better to have space for air to flow above the box or on the side of the box? this will be for a sinlge 12" BTL, and if i do it with the airspace above the box i will have about 3 inches tall by around 28-30 inches wide of a gap between the …

I'm starting a new build for my two DP 21"s in my Expedition, and I'm looking for some ideas. My ideas are in the above poll. Right now I have a subs up, port back setup. Current box is 20 cubes with 300 sq. inches of port at 32Hz. I'm looking at about the same volume and tuning for my wall as well. Possibly tuned a little lower, I loves my lows. The wall will be to the b-pillars. I'm basically looking to get as loud as possible on music, but this is for daily, so it's not going to be a burp monster. All votes, comments, and suggestions are appreciated.

ok so i've got an sp4 15 on the way. its going in the trunk of a 94 lincoln mark 8. i've built a box already thats a tight fit to get into the trunk and its only 3.5ft^3 tuned at 33hz. ive got plenty of trunkspace left the problem is getting anything bigger thru the trunk opening. so im coming to you guys for help/tips for building in the trunk. so what would be the easiest was to assemble in the trunk?

Hello everyone. I am redesigning my enclosure for my 15" ethos for different mounting options. When I use the Torres calculator I am using the total net feature with 3 cu ft and also 3 common walls since it is a slot port. Using a port that is 4x18.5 at 56" long gives me a tuning of 31.94 hz and 74 in2 of port. Then when I use the same size port in the carstereo.com calculator it tells me 48.5" of length is required to give me 32hz tuning. So my question is which one should I use. In sketch up I am designing the port by measuring down the center. Thank you in advance for the help.

Hey everyone first off I'm new to the site so I would like to say hi. Now I have a 2006 impala and I have a fi bl 12 and I had a fully costom box build that is right at 2 cubic feet and is tuned at 33hz potted through the trunk deck. Now the sound is horrible so atomatically I think it's the box but my buddy has the same size box and same size port that was taken out of a mozda rx8 and it's just sitting in the bak of a Mazda b2200 and we put the sub in that box and it freakin pounds. We took his treo out and put in my box and it has good sound. So my question is why in the world does the fi not sound good? I have had it in boxes that load up in the truck and sound amazing…

Hey everyone. I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how the freq of a box affects the sound, like what a low freq is good for and how it sounds along with a higher freq? Also, when the inside corners/edges of the box are angled, will that give you better spl? And I was thinking of sanding the edges on the outside of the box to a curve to make them round instead of a straight edge...is that a bad idea? Thanks in advance, Jack3d **Any help is always appreciated

whats up, I've had 6 systems in 4 cars, 2 of my cars were hatchback. I had 1 sedan with a sub in the trunk for a year and a half, at that time I was'nt trying to make my system louder, now in my present car I'm on my second system and I want to get louder. but the system is in the trunk. I know no matter what I do it wont be as loud as in a hatchback. Is it possible to make a spl vehicle in a sedan. Are spl numbers as high as 150 achieveable in a trunk? My system is fairly loud now,I hit 137.8 at a local shop with my old system. but that was with 880 watts rms to a 15. I was'nt to impressed cause some guys were hitting 5-10 db more, with nearly the same wattage. I hav…

Ok... In the process of building a new sub enclosure, fibreglass of course. And I am porting it (RL-p 12). Now, I do not want to use a slot port, what options do I have for nice flared ports? What dia should I go with, is 4" large enough? I saw a couple options on partsexpress, wondering if it is possible to use normal plumbing PVC instead of the supplied stuff so that I can get lengths longer than say 17"? I'll try to get pics up on the build, but, me being digicam poor, may not be able to get any up until it is completed (or I go through a complete film on the old-fashioned cam-era).

Just finishing up a ported box I did for my Icon 12's. Still have to cut out the woofer holes. They'll be facing up. Anyone have some suggestions on how I should finish it? Stain, paint, carpet? Port painted white? Or stained? Any ideas appreciated.

i need to finish out the boxx and wall off the open side where the batterys go