SPL & SQ / Fabrication

alright so I will start building a sub box pretty soon but I have an issue, there is a metal brace on the floor of my car going from one side to the other. can I work around it? or does the box have to be flat one all sides?

Hey guys, in this episode I show you how you can take a seemingly normal box, and make it truly custom and one of a kind, and integrate it into your install, and really give your builds a PROFESSIONAL look. Here is the video: The pictures below outline the steps: 1: Laying Out your shapes and ideas: 2: Preparing the shapes for body filler: 3: Applying Body Filler: 4: sanding Bosy Filler: 5: Prepping for Vinyl or Paint: 6: Wrapping the panel and triming: 7: Finished Product: 8: Finished Product: Please comment below or on the video itself, if you enjoyed the video check out my others as well on YouTube. Mark

I have a honda accord 99 with a trunk vent (8"x3" slot) behind the paneling on the driver side. I notice the other day that there was a lot of air leaking through there when the bass note hits. Would sealing this up help with spl and is this bad for the car? My box is in the trunk sub and port facing back. Just wanted to know if anyone had this problem and what did you do to it?

Going to be making my own port flares.. My dad works at a machine shop and has access to a lathe with will make things easier. He's gonna make me a mold so I can just fibreglass over it to make my flares. Now, I was hoping I could get some help with dimensions of the flare, it's going to be a 10" port, and I need to know what diameter to flare out to, and how deep to make the flare. Iv heard add 4" to the diameter but that could be total BS, but iv got no clue as far as how deep the flare should be.

My current front stage has visible speakers in the a-pillars and kick panels. Imaging is great, sound stage is deep/wide and often outside the vehicle. I have wondered what it would sound like if the speakers were hidden. Would the sound stage be wider, deeper and even more transparent because I would not be able to visibly localize the speakers? I stumbled across The McGurk Effect. Just to give you an idea of how visible my front stage is. Hmmm..... time to start re-making a-pillars for a hidden install? And carpet over kicks?

The plastic that holds all of the controls for the windows and doors seems to rattle a bit, any ideas on how to stop it? I was thinking some type of small felt tape that you can find at hardware stores.

Vehicle : 2002 Toyota Avalon XLS Location in the vehicle: Trunk with rear armrest access port Space available (Length x Width x Height): 22"x42"x16" Subwoofer make and model: SSA XCON 12 D1 Number of Subwoofers: 1 for now. Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.): Kerfed would be optimal, Slot if not kerf. What type of music do you like?: Electronic, Drum n Bass, Classic Rock, Alternative, Rap, Hip-Hop, R&B. Is your goal SPL or Everyday Music?: Everyday Music geared towards SQ Tuning Freq (Hz): 28-30 or so Volume : 2.5-3.0 Questions: 1. I plan on only giving about 600-1200w by a Crescendo BC2000D, should I have the volume of the box be closer to 3.0 to maximize effici…

just need to know if anyone could tell me the port lengths inside this box http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-0-FT-3-TUNED-32Hz-SLOT-VENTED-CUSTOM-MDF-SUB-ENCLOSURE-2-10-INCH-SUBS-/400326246337 id rather make the box instead of buying it lol, but if anyone could be so kind to help out thatd be great

Assuming all have the same sealed/ported volume and same port size. I know the pics aren't to scale so don't take that into consideration. I have seen pretty much all of these types used, so I know any would technically work but I wonder about cancellation with all but # 2. The box would be for 8 10's, tuned to 45hz with about 35 cubes total if you're curious. I would have never considered facing subs at each other in the past but I've seen some of the loudest 4th orders with subs facing right at each other like design 1 and 3 so it might not be as much of an issue as I was always told. All are 4th order walls in case that wasn't obvious and the crap drawing is an overh…

I'm trying to figure out an enclosure configuration for 3 SA-10s, just not sure which way to go. Was looking at doing a downfire enclosure with an aeroport(s) firing to the side,. Just curious if there is any drawbacks to something like this. I like the idea of it being less visible, as well being a little more protected from the elements if the top is down. If it's a terrible idea, I'm all ears for better options. Thanks

im looking at my max dimensions and it looks like its going to be around 8 cubes and its most likely going to be tuned to 33hertz and i was wondering if thats too big? its a shared chamber subs and port up(going in a pickup)

website specs say they like 2.5-2.75ft^3 do they like larger than 2.75 or should i keep it there?

I have yet to personally use an RTA for my own personal use so let's see if I get this right- I want to use Pink noise because that is generated to play how our ears perceive sound. When analyzing what pink noise looks like on a computer, it appears from 20hz-20khz, for every octave from 20hz, the amplitude drops 3db. So, at 20khz, it's very low compared to 20hz but our ears must be very sensitive there(if you can hear it) to perceive a flat response. So, when i go to RTA my front stage, is my goal to also (if it were perfectly possible) to achieve a full range reading exactly how pink noise is generated? 3db drop for every octave up? In the end, I would assu…

In this episode of "Car Audio Fabrication" I share the proper way to utilize T-Nuts in an install. The advantages of T Nuts are as follows: Screws can be removed several times if you need to access the inside of the enclosure with no worry of srtipping or degrading the thread quality (like what would occur with wood screws into wood)More secure mounting, they cannot be pulled loose from the mounting surface as occurs with wood screws.Other notes: Adding a dab of super glue before securing the t nut to the wood can prevent them from falling into the enclosure before installing. Using a size down from the shank of the t nut for your drill hole allows for a tighter squ…

I just had a box built for my 2 icon 12's tuned at 30hz.I had it metered at my local shop.they said it was peaking at 40hz.is this normal?is it cabin gain etc.

I'm currently building my first 6th order bandpass enclosure. I need a way to make the top panel secure to the box, but easily removable for access to the sub once the top is put on. Here is what I have done thus far. I have also added weather stripping all around to prevent leaking. I'm looking for suggestions for the best way to go about this other than glue and screws. Thanks in advance.

I have two Sony explode 10's I got last year; I have them in 1.3cuft each sealed; I am in the process of moving, all the big tools are in storage, so I can't build a new box. I have some scrap wood laying around, and I want to knock out a wall of the box and combine it with another slightly smaller enclosure and port it; I hate scrapping it together, but these are my killing time subs, I just play with them to try ideas; anybody have any tips on making junk subs drop lower? I am not after a ton of output, it's for a computer speaker setup; just want real low extension. I am looking to get it tuned to 24hz, with -plenty- of port; does anyone have any idea what kind of air…

i have a 96 s10 reg cab and in order to have a bigger system im forced to build a blow-thru. ive decided that my best option is to do a 4th order bandpass with the port coming through the back of my cab. i like the idea of having a single octo-port (just because i think they look effin b-a). ive done read just about everything you can find on the net and also talked to a few guys who have them....but everyone says something different....my question is how do you tune these things??? "golden ratio/theory"??? i plan on using 4 Lanzar Max Pro 15's (yes i know what your thinking) but they dont need a ton of space and power

im going to have two FI BL 15s and i want a good enclosure. my max dimensions are 50 inches in width, 28 inches in height, and 25 inches in depth, and i kinda wanted a design plan such as the port dimensions and should i go double or single baffle?

i wanted to get the maximum amount of cubes i could get in my small pickup so i was thinking about a box that has shared chambers. are there any cons or bad things about a box for two subs with a shared chamber? its going to ported also and its for two fi bl 15s

Many times I have been asked: "What if I don't have a table saw, how can i still make a good box?" This video answers that question. Enjoy!

Know that my 270A alternator has been ordered I'll be ordering a second FI BL 15 for my car. I was wanting to get you thought on this parameters

I need Help for my 10 Xcon I would like A Ported Box, would like to have my tuning around 32 If opti.

In this video I show you how to cut a perfect circle for your car audio install: What you need: Router (Preferably a plunge, but I show you can use a normal one) Jasper Circle Jig Drill 3/16 Drill Bit Wood to cut a circle into The Jasper circle jig in the video is the Model 200. Search Google for "Jasper Circle Jig Model 200" to find it. Mark

I have been working on an enclosure for 2 SSA Zcons. Spent the last week on these. Learning how to use sketch up and trying to understand torres calculation tool. I have come up with two designs using these. I am looking for some advice from someone to help me confirm my that what I have done is correct to what has been drawn. I could send my sketchup design to you for advice. I have used the torres calculation tuner to determine my port lengths and sizes. I am not 100% sure I have fully understand all senarios which change my calculations in this calculator.