SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I started the cuts today, and want to put it together soon, but theres a few things i'm missing. I know i need to pilot the holes, but what size screws? I was thinking 1 5/8" Drywall screws. And for the glue.. should i just use regular carpenter glue/weldbond or something special? Also i read that MDF is porous, so should i seal it? and with what? And someone on a different forum mentioned to do seomthing different for the edges/corners.. .any idea what he meant? 1. 1 5/8" drywall screws? 2. Weldbond/carpenter glue or something else? 3. What kind of sealant if any? (recommendations?) 4. What should i seal edges with? I know its long but thanks for readin.

Well im swapping out my 2 SA10s each on an audiopipe APSM1300 for 1 SSA 10" XCON and i will be strapping both amps together to get ~2000w @ 2 ohms. It seems like I might get away with being able to use the same box and port length. The current box is 1.39ft^3 before displacement, making it 1.24ft^3 ... using the aero port calculator My exisiting 3" x 15" port will give me a tuning of ~30.8hz. Am i lucky and wont have to build a new box?

I just finished a build on a trans line box, Its a 1/4 wave 33 hz. But i thought i had read some where that 1/2 wave trans lines were better, but impractical for space. so i thought i would make a box with a 1/4 wave at 33 for daily and 1/2 wave at 66 for comps, but from testin the box in my house the box getts really quiet after about 40-45(guesstimation) when using a reasonce test song, so was my idea of a dual purpose box dumb.. and are the only good trans line boxes 1/4 wave boxes?

hey guys, i need help making the design for a optimal sealed box for my 2 12's. http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/index.php/product-information/icon.html\ the problem i have is i have a rather small vehicle and the space the box has to sit in is 33" wide and 18" high but to get it in the tallest it can be is 16" if anyone could build me a diagram or point me in the right direction it would be a HUGE help. thanks in advance, zack

my current box is 9.99 cubes and tuned to 32hz the problim is my car is peeking at 30hz but i did a 149.5db @28hz at the last meca comp my current box is subs up port back port is 4"x25"x21.5deep 100sqin with 2 18"treo ssx and 2 rd audio 3250.1's can someone give me a direction as what to do to get in the 150xx help with cuft and tuning my box now is exactly to treo's specs it is in a 97 ford probe gt (HATCHBACK)here is a link to my vids so please help me hit a 150.xx thankshairtricks and flex vids please comment if you wish

I had a place build me a box and i gave them website to check out the specs, i just wanna make sure everything was done properly before i go ahead and accept this box. fits perfectly in my trunk (he measured before he made it) my subs are still being manufactured... so i have time to correct this if not. any pro response would be appriciated. H 14" x W 32" x D 24" is the overall outside dimensions. im not sure what he tuned the port to. the outside of the port is 12.5"x3" if you need more measurements id be more than happy.

wtf makes it a "nice" or "right" enclosure? like everyone says that my 12" Q will sound amazing in the right box. how the hell do i find "the right" box without building multiple boxes? any suggestions? i just see it everywhere but i don't know where to start on building a good box to get alot out of the sub? i know the obvious, such as size. if iw as to go sealed, wouldn't pretty much any sealed box sound the same? if they were the same cuft that is. and i know theres alot of variables for ported boxes, but how do i know what sounds better then others? i just wonna do it right the first time. i'm currently in a 1.5 cuft sealed enclosure that a local audio shop "custom" b…

I have a honda accord 99 with a trunk vent (8"x3" slot) behind the paneling on the driver side. I notice the other day that there was a lot of air leaking through there when the bass note hits. Would sealing this up help with spl and is this bad for the car? My box is in the trunk sub and port facing back. Just wanted to know if anyone had this problem and what did you do to it?

I love sound quality and its clarity. But I always end up listening to mp3's and I have heard from many places and I do believe them, that mp3's are to heavily compressed, and I want to know where I can get true audiophile grade sound tracks, of rock and techno type music??

Im Helping a friend design a box he kinda wants a half wall. Two subs inside the cab ( no rear seat) and two in the trunk area. My idea is 3.5 cubic feet per sub about 55 cubic inches of port per sub. It will b one big box but inside it will be like each speaker has its own box and they all have their own port. So i suppose 14 cub ft internal after sub and port displacement and overall about 220 cub inches of port how does that sound any advice is appreciated. He has none of the equipment yet but he wants 4 cvr 15s and for power either two kicker kx1200.1 or one zx or kx 2500.1?

Alright, there has been a lot of discussion and I want your opinion! For an Integra, which is the best box for an all out SPL build? (and gets low) Wall behind the driver/passenger seatsSub up, port backSub up, port frontSub back, port backSub front, port front

I have decided to go with Selenium ST350 Super Tweeter, and Selenium 6W4P 6" woofer. I will be running thes active and have a copule of questions about them. First question: one being will it sound ok to mount the woofer in the stock door, and the tweeter in the stock dash. I will have to modify the dash a little bit, since the hole right now is 4", and mounting of the tweeter is 4.25". Will it sound good with it located up there? Next question: Since this is my first active setup, I dont want it to sound like shit. So, how do you guys block the mid sound from going to your tweeters? and stop the real lows and real higs from going to the mids? I will be running a MB Qua…

Well, It's been a while since I've been on here. Graduated college and disappeared from the scene to start a career, which lead me to 3 states in 3 years. Finally got a vehicle I've always wanted: an SUV! Picked up an Alpine MRX-M100 on Craigslist for $50, and just bought a new Fi Alpha v2 15 yesterday (hopefully that comes in before the new year). Definitely won't be as heavily involved in the SPL scene as I was years ago, but I think I might just make something to have some fun with at a couple of competitions next summer. Here is my plan so far, and I would like input/feedback for anyone that has worked with a Renegade before: 800-900 wrms realisticall…

im having one hell of a time trying to cut a couple 45's, do i really need them? i have some stuff to seal the edges, its not caulk though. what do i need to brace it. gonna sand it all since theres some excess glue all over the place, and my top wont fit right cause the port walls are a little taller, so i need to sand that down. and finally, will it be a problem since one sub is unloading on the port wall? comments, suggestions?

Ok so they have these so called SPL subs right like Re's new MT or treo's CSX right, ok so i was looking at them and then was told they were no for everyday listening.... ..What the hell does that mean, to me it makes it seem like if i'm not giving it a constant tone or something, the sub will mess up, dont really see how but thats what it seems like, now if they meant that it would be to loud for everyday listening...i'm game, that just means my car would be one loud SOB...just kinda stumped on this not for everyday listening thing...

I want to do a install of 4 15s in trunk of grand prix. I will be building inside trunk. I just need help, and suggestions on designs. Let me know guys. 37" wide and with 16" tall, and roughly 50" long(from trunk opening to rear seats.

I have a ski port with a latch/door that folds down into the trunk to allow air to flow through. If its ported through the hatch, and otherwise sealed off from the cabin, would that yield higher spl would it be a waste of time/money? Im not looking for pure spl, I just thought this might let me keep my sq but make it a little louder. My current setup is a regular 2.5 cube box with a bunch of room around the top/side to get around to the back of the box and through the ski port. Here's my idea(s)..... And sorry that it looks like a third grader made these sketches.. its all i could do with ms paint.... side view of trunk shape with ski port door open/folded down loo…

Have a 12" icon showing up soon and would like to get an enclosure ready for it. I've been using the bitpusher site to help me calculate the box. This is what I have so far Now I prefer to use a Single 4" precision port. I'm unsure how to calculate the entire port area I have with this setup. Reading through past threads and SSA's recommended 2.25 cu ft tuned in the low 30s. Also saw in a thread that for that size box I should aim for around 35 sq in of port. Pi * r * r doesn't calculate the length? Missing something somewhere maybe someone can help. Is a single 4" aero going to give me enough port area? Anything you see wrong here? One other thing. Going off the picture…

i have a question i have an 1.25 cubic inch pvc tube for 1 15" and i want to tune it to the peak freq. of my car. i dont know what frequency is best for spl in my car i have a 4 door mitsubishi mirage and im going to use aeroport 3" and the woofers are RE XXX thanks in advance im new to this of port is there any advantage using larger aeroports in sealed i measured in the 58 thanks

i am planning on upgrading my system, but im still undecided if i should make it ported or a 4th order box, what will be the pros or cons of each, and what would be better it will be a blowthrough on a silverado, planning for 4 15" dc lvl 4 and a dc 5k, but right now i just want to build a box first, thanks

I'm building a box that's, according to my calculations: 1.9959 cubic ft (not including port and .12ft^3 sub displacement), with a port area of 28.75 square in, and port length of 33 in. This box should get me about 32-33 Hz. This box is for a single 12" SI Mag that's going to be powered by a Sundown SAE-1000D. Anyway, this is only my second box build, and my box building skills ain't nowhere close to most on this forum. But I'm wondering how some of my problems will effect the actual sound of the sub. My problems lie in the port, which runs through one side of the box, and continues around the back of the box. So, these are my problems with the port: 1. The port a…

Long story short - I have a '19 f250 underseat box with 2 10" 2.2ft tuned to 36hz. and am trying to decide on drivers for it. I have a Sundown sa10 in a 1ft box tuned to 35hz - I'm happy with the lows but it drops off in the higher frequencies quick - in songs with a lot of dynamic bass frequencies I can barely hear bass in some parts and other parts it shakes the car, so it feels "uneven" during the song. I'm looking for a setup with loudness but also smoother over a larger frequency range. I've modeled an idq10, jl 10w3 and Sa10. in 1.1ft box tuned to 36hz (below). When I change the idq10 to two drivers and double the volume (2.2ft) the graph doesn't change. S…

I wanna know if I could build a 4th order bandpass box for 4 12" subs in the trunk of my cavalier? I have a Soundstream Rubicon 2500D amp and a Kinetic1200 under the hood and a 2400 in the trunk. Thought about something sort of like this but, not too sure it would work with being such a small trunk...Just need some help tryin to figure out if I should do it or not. http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=5362d8048075cdd16b752e7529d36aed[/media]

So i just bought a new Craftsman plunge router, and i bought a 3/8s bit. Now is there a certain size bit i should use or what. Can someone tell me what they do. do i just have to add half of 3/8s to what ever size im cutting to get what im really cutting. Any help would help

i was surfing around another sight and seen a post of a fellar wanting to check his design on a port. he was told a length by the guy , and drafted the port out accordingly. the port he presented is the exacrt length he was told. i was just thrown off by this because it is a slot port, and i thought that the end correction should of been factored in. i was told it wasn't. so does the end correction not always factor into a port design? the port folded so it was so it was not on the exterior wall, but ended inside the box along the adjacent port wall. thanks for the help. just wanting to ensure i am equiped with the right info. chop edit.... the length given was to be 26…