SPL & SQ / Fabrication

How do i tell if its my sub or my box or my tuning that is making certain notes hit weird like the song run this town by jay z sounds like s**t in my car. Btw i have an L715 in a 4.44 cubic ft internal box tuned to 34hz and it is ran by a kx1200.1 that does 1400 rms. Thanks.

Okay, So to find out what Hz my car peaks at, do I try out different test tones to see which one is the loudest in my car? If so, then what do I do from there? Say my car peaks at 37hz...do I tuned my port to 37hz? Reason asking is because I built a 2.5cuft. net @ 32hz enclosure with a 4" aeroport. I can take it out and cut it down for SPL. I just want to do it right since I only have one tube insert left. I'm aiming for SPL, not a fartbox. Thanks!

when setting your gains on amps why cant you turn them all the way up. and if you have them less then half way are you still getting the rated power of the amp. say if the amp is 1000w RMS are you getting that no matter what the gains are set too..... jamie

I want to have a smaller sub for when I travel or haul things. I currently have a 4 cu ft box with an re sx15 firing up and port back. It doesn't leave me much storage room in the back. Since I can't stack anything on top of the box, or by the port. So I'm thinking about a downfiring rear firing box for one Skar vvx12. It would be on the drivers side. Aprox 14" wide, 13" tall, and 27" long, with 4-5" feet on the bottom. The port would be about 4" off my hatch. I'm thinking about a slot port 2" high and 12.5" wide. Net volume 1.7 tuned to 32 hz. This is for daily listening at reasonable volumes. I'm looking for a 5-600 watt amp to run it off of. How much room should I ha…

I'm going to be building a small aero ported box for a friend soon, but he doesn't want to spend the extra few dollars to buy real aero's. He wants to go with just straight PVC pipe instead. Yes, I explained port noise and the advantages of having flared ports. Anyway, what's the best way to mount PVC pipe externally on a box? There's no flare to screw into the wood, only a straight pipe to sit inside the cutout. I'm having trouble trying to figure out the most stable and secure way of attaching the PVC. Thoughts?

the back window on my 2000 ford Explorer is Mage Flexxing !!! what can be done to stop the spl from leaking out ???

http://forum.soundillusions.net/showthread.php?t=54724 I know I posted this over on CA.com, but just in case you didn't see it... This isn't MECA-sponsored, but should be good to get out (away from the forums, hehe ) and see some people/installs. I had better see some of the B'burg crew out there

15" Power HX2 In a 91' Accord. Box is almost 7cubes. I'll post its SPL when we get it on the meter.

The Box design i used from a guy from SMD didnt pan out so well, i honestly think the port length was longer than in my plan.... It sounds like it tuned to 42hz instead of 32hz. That being said im hoping SSA forum can help!! Keep in mind id really like to keep the box either as wide and shallow or flat/wide/deep as possible. Basically im trying to fit the golf clubs in the back, either in front of the box, or on top. 12" Fi Q on ~1600RMS tuned to 30ish hz. thanks for the help fellas/ladies

Hey everyone. What do you think would be the best for music and spl box size for a 15" Zcon. Been looking but can't find the suggested box sizes on here. Thanks guys.

15" Xcon .... Was thinking about going sealed but then the idea of aero ports was brought up and I saw Stef's and loved the look and thought ... "Hey, a sealed enclosure is just a big box.. and a ported with aeros is just some tubing thrown inside of it and cut to the right length for tuning... I can do that.." Should I just do this? I was looking at PrecisionSoundProducts and said I could do this... Not much more work that building a sealed enclosure... Right??? So I looked up on their site for ports calculations and realized after understanding it a bit better that the Torres calculator does it as well... Here is what I come up with and it seem correct... Let me know wh…

Has anyone ever heard of this guy? And are his designs worth the money? His website is: PWK Designs

i have a 96 s10 reg cab and in order to have a bigger system im forced to build a blow-thru. ive decided that my best option is to do a 4th order bandpass with the port coming through the back of my cab. i like the idea of having a single octo-port (just because i think they look effin b-a). ive done read just about everything you can find on the net and also talked to a few guys who have them....but everyone says something different....my question is how do you tune these things??? "golden ratio/theory"??? i plan on using 4 Lanzar Max Pro 15's (yes i know what your thinking) but they dont need a ton of space and power

OK, so I am hoping that some box building gurus can help me stop pulling may hair out trying to decide on what box design and subwoofer choice I should go with. As you know, the Toyota MR2 is a very small car with not much room behind its only 2 seats. It is mid engine, so the trunk in the back is of no use to me for subs. they must go right behind the seats in a wedge style box. Here is an MR2 and a pic of the space behind the seats: So I listen to all kinds of music literally, well maybe not country so much, but lots of stuff. I want it to sound musically nice but definitely want to produce as much SPL or should I say """SQL""" as possible if s…

Does anybody run bandpass boxes and if so, what subs are good to run in that type of enclosure? I quit running bandpass boxes awhile back because I thought they hold in wayyyy to much sound....

My shop teacher has a 1 inch thick piece of plexiglass, and he said if I can find way to cut it, I can have it. I have a tablesaw, circularsaw, router, and a jigsaw, but wasn't sure if any of them would cut it. Will they?

hey guys, i used the re box calculator to make a box for my 10" fi bl. the box is 1.457 cubes for my sub after port displacement. the port is tuned to 33 hz. it doesnt sound good at all. i followed the cutsheets and everything and there is no leaks in the box that i can find. im just kinda wondering why it doesnt sound good. also, i used 3/4 inch mdf for everything but the baffle and the back. i used 3/4 plywood for that. could that be why it doesnt sound good? please any help would b great. thanx.

http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseac...Product_ID=5091 I saw this on ROE and couldn't beleive the price! Are these like last years version of the 61i that is currently on the CDT "gold" web site. I remember old CDT eurosport, and only heard them once, I was pretty impressed but it was a 3 way. I just don't have that kind of cash ATM, and won't for a while with all the rest on my build up. Bump if anyone has experience with these? I might jump on this and let the H/U issue wait.. if these are a value anyone want to borrow me another 300 bucks so I can get 2 sets I would hate to miss out on sucha pwn sauce deal if these are in fact good?? lol I'm looking for some…

Need help with box demensions for a custom built subwoofer The RE has tc aluminum basket 4" 8 layer flatwound aluminum voice coil 3 10" tc spider pack with 1" spacer 8 gauge ofc direct leads dual 2 ohms voice coils everything is brand new just the moter is used also has a two tone carbon fiber dust cap can take 4000 watts rms Thanks going in a astro van

Probably a horse that's been beaten to death, but I've still got a couple questions. First off I guess the equipment in use would be a good place to start. Two Skar VVX V2 12s and a Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 amp wired to 1 ohm in the trunk of a cavalier. Listen to decaf, rock, and country so musicality is a factor. Only have one VVX in the car right now, so building a new box and deciding to forward fire and seal off versus rear fire is kinda where I'm at right now. I've never heard a sealed off box so don't have anything to reference to also. My gut feeling is sound quality would be better, especially on rock, it would meter well if sealed off properly, but would lose some …

Okay, so I had two questions: How does inverting your subwoofers affect SPL/""SQL"" if at all? & How would I go about making one side of my enclosure plexi-glass? (how to secure it to the box) Just asking because I've never done either before and was thinking about one or the other for my next build. Thanks guys!

Hey guys, I am asking for as much input here as I can get. I have everything I need...it's sunny outside..but I am at a hault. OK, I take it back... my HO alt from Iraggi was attempt delivery so i cant pick it up till tomorrow, my 4 AP30001D's should be here any day, my 50 foot spool of 0 gauge, a 40 pack of 0 gauge terminal rings...and Kicker should be shipping back two 4 channels soon as well. Otherwise, i have the van, I have the subs, I have the 3rd 4 channel, 3 AGM batteries..same as Deka Intimidator..I got lots of wood... 2"x6"x8' boards for bracing... gonna make X's inside of squares..should be solid. I have several sheets of 4'x8'x3/4" MDF... I have 4 Extremis 6.…

Posted this in the hop since there was some vinyl talk this morn, but need some help in figuring out how to finish the vinyl off after it is stretched and glued to the front. There is no place to "staple" the vinyl to the back of the pods so how would you attach it? I have never done this before, but have some really stretchy vinyl and 3M 77 Spray adhesive (and others, but thought this was best). Any recommendations on how to finish or attach the vinyl to the backside of the tweeter pods? As a reference for size the whole is less than 2" and the edges of the pod are about a 1/4". These will be mounted in the stock sail panel locations.

I knew this was how it was going down, so I went with it. I hoped to get solid replies on the input to my Alpine IVA-W505 HU. I do not want to run RCAs because they tend to be nasty dirty from PC, but I just might have to. Also IDK if I kept the AUX IN RCA connector for the HU. So I tried the 3.5mm LINE OUT on the PC to the 3.5mm in jack on the IVA thats usually used in conjunction with the USB... both go to one end of the iPOD Y-cord, and the other end is the jack to plug into the POD. I get no audio from the HU from the PC in USB, AUX, or AUX + IN. The rig: I dismantled the rig I built for the HT and rebuilt it for the VAN. RS meter and Audyssey mic. VIDEO REW …

What is the most accurate sub box calculator tuning and everything