SPL & SQ / Fabrication

15" Power HX2 In a 91' Accord. Box is almost 7cubes. I'll post its SPL when we get it on the meter.

Last Night at the Texas Bass Productions show in Ft Worth Tx ( Hooters ) with a lil help from Doug ( Djman37 ) i did 152.3 on my first run.... 154.0 on the second rub 154.6db on last run and she had more to give... equipment used: Alpine 9887 Hu Ia 40.1 2- 15" SoundStream T4 subs 1 - Kenitick 2400 box 7.5cf ported with 2- 6" areaports, ruffly 7" long note 55Hz mic in passanger Kick w/ drivers door open Pics soon

1 shitty prefab enclosure =$70 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 131.1 with term lab on the dash 1 Custom enclosure From Audio innovations =$ 200 1 dc level 4 12 bnib =$ 100 1 Audioque 1200d =$249 139.3 dB with term lab on the dash 8.2 dB Gain= PRICELESS I still have shitty 4 gauge power wire. Stock electrical. Cap:( and ground is not grounded properly

OK as of right now my box this like this. And now I wanna do this to it, if I take 1" out of the top and make it 18" tall it will make the box 7ft^3 net, and now i take 3/4" mdf and put is on the inside of the port and make the port 4.5H by 18.5W and keep it 16.5D It should tune it to 35Hz. The red is the new MDF in the port can I do this and will it work?!?!?

I bought 2 aurum cantus ac165/50c2c to go in a 2 way active setup (morel 378s for tweets). The speakers are not made to run infinite baffle, but I figured I could make something work. I'm not quite sure dimensions yet for the door, but at first I was thinking of using those 6.5 foam speaker baffles that seal the speaker. I am doubtful that these will give them enough space or will be optimal but Id rather they be sealed in a tiny airspace then free air. I am going for sound quality in my front stage, so I want a more permanent better solution to this. Any tips on going about making an enclosure? Also to note this will be in a new chrysler 300 so I don't want to cut up t…

Got a 12" BTL in 2.8cuft enclosure at 30Hz. Upgraded from a BL, and well, it took about a week to get used to the BTL. I have 31" x 18" x 16" of enclosure space available, maximum. (largest I can fit in trunk opening) However there's some space around enclosure once in. Would like to upgrade to something else. 31 x 18 x 16 = 4.0cuft internal before displacement with 3/4 MDF Would like 12" Q's. Can it be done using external areo ports? Or what are my other options? I have a 2500D amplifier. Goals are to move more air than the 12" BTL, and I prefer lows.

I knew this was how it was going down, so I went with it. I hoped to get solid replies on the input to my Alpine IVA-W505 HU. I do not want to run RCAs because they tend to be nasty dirty from PC, but I just might have to. Also IDK if I kept the AUX IN RCA connector for the HU. So I tried the 3.5mm LINE OUT on the PC to the 3.5mm in jack on the IVA thats usually used in conjunction with the USB... both go to one end of the iPOD Y-cord, and the other end is the jack to plug into the POD. I get no audio from the HU from the PC in USB, AUX, or AUX + IN. The rig: I dismantled the rig I built for the HT and rebuilt it for the VAN. RS meter and Audyssey mic. VIDEO REW …

Freeking Sweeeeeeeeeeeet Show... enuff of me yacking now for the pics I blew the cone off the sub in the first run and still pulled off a 149.2db with 1 SoundStream T4 15 / 1 blown - 2x SAZ 1500ds strapped sub killer was @ 1.1ohm wired other sub to 0.7ohm added the NSB battery ran out of Sundown brochures really fast : Jacob please send more !!! was way short on info for the mobb...eagger to get a SD amp... took my class... 2x 1place trophys

Attempting to fit two 18" drivers (fi bl) in 34" width. Each driver would be mounted to an angled piece of double baffle mdf. I made a simple rendering to give a visual: Width is 34", each angled piece would be 20"x20" and angled at 45degree angle. The distance from edge of box to where the angled pieces meet would be approx 10". enclosure will be ported, most likely with aero ports for the sake of being easy. Has anyone had any experience with a enclosure like this? output wise vs conventional ported enclosures? Does the fact of the drivers being angled towards each other cause any problems, cancellation, etc. any other input? thank you

I have a question regarding port length and how to measure it in my application. I have decided on one 15in FI-Q in a downfiring ported console encloser for my truck. Question is: I have attached a photo of an example I did and I don't know how to figure the length. And also, how do I figure the port area and will this be enough for a 15in FI Q. A SA-1500v.2 will power the sub. The port will be 3.5in wide and 14.5 in tall (inside diameter) but how long will it be? Looking to tune at roughly 30hz and the box will have 3.65cu after displacement if this works. Is it A, B or C. Red would be airflow Thanks in advance

I got some new midbass speakers and ready to mount them in the door. Problem is, there is very little depth due to the window frame directly behind the speaker mount. I had planned on making some door pods, since my panel is really flat with the pocket removed. Here is what I have to work with. Buddy told me- Hey! You have a large opening in the middle of the door. You can make a baffle, bolt it to the door, and be done! Yeah, that would be pretty easy but I think soundstage would be terrible. Here is a pic relative to postion. Am I wrong? I tried hooking up the driver and moving it around. Kinda hard to tell holding it with one hand and moving it around the door a…

is there any disadvantage to having an extremely large port? lets say 20+ inches per cube?

I've got a 2.4 cube box tuned to 30 hz with a 3" aero port. The sub is a Fi Bl 12 getting about 750 watts off a Powerbass ASA1500.1. I went to comp last sunday and did a 136.8 at 44hz. If I made the port tuned to 35 hz, or even 38 hz, would my score go up? I'm not too worried about the competition in my class since I am sitting in 2nd place in the circuit, but it's always nice to be louder.

Hey guys, I'm starting to design my system that I'm going to be putting together this summer. I wanted subs that have """SQL""" type features, which is why I'm thinking the 12" xcons are the best way to go. The box design I have come up with is going to go in my 2002 Hyundai XG350L. I am going to seal it off from the trunk, and have the port coming through where the backseat center armrest folds down. sort of a skipass type thing. I believe that I will be running either a SAZ-3500 or an AQ3500 but I will make the decision when its time to purchase. Let me know what you guys think, weather or not it will work. I don't know if I should put 45's in or not a…

I currently use DIY interconnects in the form of a twisted pair with drain wire terminated with soldered RCA ends. This has worked very well for my current setup and has been fairly cheap. Although, the twisted pair is more likely used for a balanced signal then an unbalanced signal (all my runs are unbalanced). I have been researching various interconnect methods and their craziness. I have noted form numerous sources that coaxial interconnects are better suited for unbalanced signals. From what I gathered, using coaxial cable in the vehicle environment can be expensive and difficult. The difficulties arise with inflexible cabling and long RCA ends. I can image the troub…

I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've neve…

I am going to build a sealed box for 2 dc level 3 15s and i want to know how many cubic feet should be in each chamber.

guys im building a box just for the hell of it..its going to be a sealed box and i just want to see if i can do this because im sick of paying $250+ to have others do it for me..the size of the box will be 2.5 cu.ft..so if you guys can list what i will need to get this done besides nails,hammer,glue, also what kind of glue do you guys like? i really hope i can pull this off...thanx guys

Just waiting on getting my two 15" icons and, since I have nothing better to do I was wondering if there was any box type or orientation you'd like to see me try in my 2004 Impala. I'm going to try a ton of different boxes and orientations with a lot of testing to see what works out best in my application and I wanted to have some fun with it. I'm NOT doing a wall, but ill be pretty open to anything else you'd like to see me try. I might actually end up using your idea if it works out the best! -Mike

I have designed a box using Torres. Under port dimensions I have entered 33.5 as my length In the calculator it has a Physical Port length of 25. It also states that this will require me to make a bend but at 25 inches In my mind I was looking at it that I will make the two peices of wood a total of 33.5" long. 1. What is the difference? 2. Which should I use to make my cuts with? 3. Am I looking at that incorrectly? I am just confused now.

since I own a scion, I frequesnt the scion bbs. Well, this guy (works for or at eDesigns) is putting 32 7.5" eDesigns woofers in the back of his TC. I guess the project just started today...but here are some pics he posted.... This reminda me of the Bose 901 series home speakers... any thoughts on this set up? I imagine it would get pretty loud. aside from being overly rediculous..what are the advantages of using 32 7.5" woofers, as opposed to 2-12's..? ...hhhmmmm....maybe I could do, like 16 rl-i 8's in my scion....hmm....

I recently found this box picture: I love how the port and the edges are rounded. I'm guessing that on the edges that they achieved that with a lot of sanding. I'm wondering how to shape the port like that. I'm considering remaking my box, to try to achieve something like this. It looks completely badass.

i hate mdf and skilll saws..i meausured everything out and then i cut it and then it all ends up messed up.. i dont understand what i did grr i have to redue everything! i hate this

Alright guys, im in college for Mechanic Apprenticeship and one of my courses next semester is Electrical Accessories, Guess what we get to build! A sub box, Considering i already have a daily box for my BTL 18, i was considering building something for pure SPL if i ever want to try out a competiton.. Anyways, i was just curious from your experiences what platform is the best for pure spl builds, just a basic slot port, 4th order, 6th order ect. (This will be in the trunk so no walls.) Once i get some information about this ill sit down and see what i can come up with.

I was simply wondering what is some of the different types of Building Material are the best? I know the word best is subjective, but in this scenerio, weight is not an issue. Of course, I could simply double up on 3/4 MDF, and do some well bracing, I'm aware of that. But I'm also aware that, the material your using can greatly alter the output. Thats the main reason extreme vehicles use concrete. I am not willing to use concrete. I know I said weight is not an issue, but thats a bit much, plus would put me into the extreme class. The reason I'm asking, is because this will be my burp enclosure. I've heard of some competitors using marble, and other hard/rock like materia…