SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Alright guys, here it is. Not too bad for my first time I think. PS. This is on completely Stock electrical (other than a cap) and we all know how well caps help you out and only 1.5k wrms. Music Peak: Test Tone: ~48hz

After comparing torres to the RE calc, I realized that it was off (re) by a lot more than I had expected. About an entire cubic foot off. So I think now would be a good time to build a new box. The main question I have is in reference to the "Port Top/Bottom" measurement, I'm not sure where the 4.50" comes from? I'm also not quite sure about how a slot port with no bend's would act since I don't think i've seen many people build one without bends. Main goal is to have the Hifonics brz15 laying face up and the port facing either the trunk or in the cabin, and to be removable (the box). Are there any real advantages to an inward facing port? I've heard that you would want y…

These will be going in the back of a Grand Cherokee. I was originally thinking a single SA-12 but I think I like the idea of less box so I can keep more cargo area and my goal is a daily driver SQ setup so I think the 8's will be just fine for my goals and it stays within my pretty small budget. I have never built a ported box before so the design, tuning, and porting all are things I don't have a grasp on. I want to do a box that is wedge shaped to maximize the space available while leaving as much cargo area as I can. One thing I am not sure about is whether or not to go rear firing or top firing. The rear firing will allow for a slimmer box but I want to make sure I am…

I have a 2004 Cadillac SLS and am looking to fab a 4th order enclosure for 2 SA-8 V.2's on a SAZ 1500 V.3. The reason for the smaller sub is to help save room in the trunk and to still have high output. The reason for the 4th order is the infamous Cadillac trunk bass trap, so I would like to port the enclosure through the stock sub location in my rear deck. I am not too familiar with hertz levels or anything, but I can tell you that I listen to every thing from Hip Hop, R&B, Jazz, and Alternative. New to the forum here and just looking for some experienced suggestions. If you would like more detail please let me know. Would like a little seasoned input before I spend …

Is there any dB meter software you can use with a regular computer microphone on windows vista? i know it wouldnt be as accurate as a TL but its better than nothing.

I need help designing a set of boxes for two 8

I'll be building a new box this weekend for my new Xcon 12. I have seen quite a few boxes with black carpet and white ports lately, and I really do like how they look. So I was gonna try one myself. Parts Express has some black carpet. One has a latex backing and the other one doesn't. Is there a plus to one over the other? Should I be looking else where for carpet? What have you guys used? I've never done carpet, just textured paint, and want something differant. I am just unsure what to get. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Nelson

so i was told my wall was too big, lol which it is 16 cubes for 4 12"s, but beyond that, we still get a solid 152 on 1900 watts clamped, looking to gain fairly large numbers (1.5 db) without increasing power and withing 2 weeks lol. but i was told about a rear loading wall, the guy told me that he stumbled across putting a "wall" inside the wall that has around 2-3" of gap between the edges and was at a slight angle, claims to have gained him 8 db (i doubt it, but he has all the equipment to know what he did and how much it gained). what do you guys think of this, all i can think of is that is sounds like a bandpass with some sort of a horn effect to it... im not sure…

Today at my 1st comp... i was able to accomplish 140dB's with my 3.2cube@32hz box. It was on the new Termlab. Yes u may say its weak, but i've got big plans for this coming season... totally redoing my whole box. I took 3rd place in Stock 301-900 in USACi comp here in Sacramento. It was alot of fun... if no one believes i hit 140, ask tyler(marleyskater420), he was there. Pretty cool guy, it was fun meetin up wit him. Anyways guys, i just wanted to let everyone know . I'm pretty stoaked.... seeing as i had 1 12(RE XXX w/ RE35.1), and the person who took 2nd had 2 12s and was 1 dB louder than me. He got 141.1 i believe. 1st place went to Steve Meade, with 2 18s with a bd1…

well i ran into an issue today, which isnt TOO bad just its one of those things that dont go as planned that you gotta get around well i was going to start a portion of my new build today, or at least test fit (thank god i test fit on this and didnt run into it last minute) but i had originally planned to fit my ID CTX65cs comps in my doors, the mids are 6.5" which generally i can fit that circumfrance, however.. not that specific depth i made these rings to go on the door panel, they are 3/4" MDF, with a 1/4" flush cut out for them.. flush is king and they fit in the rings like a charm (first time i made my own rings - so i was happy) i primered them and painted em so th…

I had a 4th order bandpass box designed for me, but he didn't give me an output graph or tuning frequency or anything else. So before I build the box, I'd like to know what the output graph looks like (if there are any high/low peaks/dips in the curve at certain frequencies). How can I figure out what the 'range' of the box/sub is? I'm not sure how to ask this, but I'd like to know the frequency band width. Whats the lowest the sub should play and the highest the sub should play. So I know where to set my subsonic//lowpass filters. Can anyone help me? Let me know what measurements you might need or just tell me how I can calculate it.

Pretty simple question. Anyone ever personally built and owned two 15s in a seales enclosure? Im gonna be doin It soon probably and was wondering what your results were. My box design Is around 5 cubes after displacements. They'll be two old style havoc 15s. And ill be running them on mg aq1200 until budget gets me a bigger amp or a diff box or set up. Thanks

I've been trying to decide if I want a single Din, Double Din, or possibly Car PC in my truck but I think the question can really only be answered after I decide if I want to go 3-way or 2-way Active. I have now currently installed one 2-Way Active setup ran by an 880PRS so that is my extent to an active setup. I have been told to do a 3-way I may have to go with a robust 7 instead of an 8 but would really prefer squeezing an 8 even if that means a custom door pod that I have seen made. I have no problem with using the kicks or glassing as well So I'm really looking for some Pro's and Con's between 2-Way and 3-way. The more I think the more I really just want to go all ou…

I have been searching around and just can't seem to get a good enough grasp on these so hopefully somebody here can help me. I'm building a box so after the displacement of everything it will be 3cuft. I will be running two Audioque HDC310s D1 and want to tune the box to 35 hz. So my question is how many ports? How long? What diameter? I just don't want to screw this up and have port noise or inefficient ports. I was also wondering if I could just get pvc pipe from a local hardware store and use that and buy some flares online to save some money. Thanks in advance!

For 2 Fi BL 18s in a box that is 2cuft over the manufacturers recommended enclosure size the final net volume after displacement is 18.29. I have the tuning freq set at 33hz. What would you guys tune this box to? Or should i keep it the same? Thanks!

So I hate posting help ? On here but here I go again....can some body help me find how to bring down my box rise I will like to get as close to 2 ohms as I can....right.now I rise to 3.5 and I was searching on here but cant find nothing...I no bracing and better airflow accounts so I just need to be pointed in the right direction thats all

please list your equipment and your top numbers, what year that happened, what meter, etc, and maybe what you would like to see in the future.

when you build a box with a square or round port, isnt it nearly impossible to stay within the 12-16 sq in of port area per cube rule? if so what is the rule for those? and when making a external port it is still the same length as if it would be internal correct, only it is on the outside...

Hey everyone, First off I wanna apologize for changing my mind so much. My financial situation has changed, so my future setup ideas have too. Even though I have not followed through with other plans ya'll have helped me with, I have learned a lot for each comment or post I read. On to the enclosure idea. I will be getting a single SA-10 D2 as soon as my current setup sells. I will be running it off of a BRZ1200 @ 1 Ohm (for headroom). My goals are for it to be decently loud (I have had an E-12, hope to be comparable to that), and flat sounding for all music types... From dubstep to decaf to classic rock to country. It will be in my daily which is the trunk of a 2000 H…

So, as you guys know, I'm an SPL nut. But as of lately I'm getting pretty tired of the completely bone stock setup in my daily driver. I had been talking about doing a nice install for a while, but frankly don't really know where to begin. I was talking to a buddy of mine (former IASCA SQ competitor), and he was talking about doing some A-pillars with 3" mids and tweeters and then doing some 7" midbasses in the doors. Frankly, I have no idea how that would work or what equipment to look at. I even thought about just going basic with some nice components in the doors (tweeter and 6.5"), and then maybe getting a little fancy with some 8" woofer kickpods to go along with a…

Why is it bad to have the height to width ratio larger than 1:8? I made a box that is too small.... and thats the only i really can make my box tund low enough... i fucked up and now im out 2 sheets of mdf and a lot of time and effort... damn..

My next car is hopefully going to be a 2002 Subaru Sti hatch, and I'm going to wall it with 6 Fi IB3's on a 7k. Pic 1 Pic 2 My first question is, should I build just a baffle, was thinking 9" baffle; or should I build a partial box and with the back seat removed leave the rear open to the trunk and deaden the fuck out of the lid, along with magnetic locks around the perimeter to keep it from slapping? The second smaller question is, I was daydreaming and thought of putting a trapdoor in the trunk floor on actuators to vent to the ground when I'm driving on the highway or at a show for more airflow. Worth it, or just a nice passing thought…

Hi, I have been using fiberglass resin in my boxes for years Does resin help spl because the box is harder or does the resin help with the sound wave, maybe the speed of the wave.I just want to no if I need to resin or not .My spl numbers or the same with or without.Thanks for any help.

I have a question regarding port length and how to measure it in my application. I have decided on one 15in FI-Q in a downfiring ported console encloser for my truck. Question is: I have attached a photo of an example I did and I don't know how to figure the length. And also, how do I figure the port area and will this be enough for a 15in FI Q. A SA-1500v.2 will power the sub. The port will be 3.5in wide and 14.5 in tall (inside diameter) but how long will it be? Looking to tune at roughly 30hz and the box will have 3.65cu after displacement if this works. Is it A, B or C. Red would be airflow Thanks in advance

My goal this yr. is farely ambitious. I want to post the loudest Trunk score in DBDrag. This is not gonna be an easy task by no means. Thier are some seriously big shoes to fill following in the likes of Dave Dasilva, Mike Stiers, Don Doyle, Steve Sears to name a few. I will have to achieve at least 154+ to achieve my goal. My starting point See ya in the Lanes