SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Ok, I got my first 15" sub today. All I've ever dealt with before are 10's and 12's. At the moment I have a pair of 12's in the back of my 97 Grand am, each one seeing 1.25 cubes sealed. The box is easy to work with, I can have the whole thing pulled out in a matter of minutes. I would like to have something similar with this 15. One problem....the clearance through the backseat is only 13.5 inches, I believe. The space to go in through the back isn't very easy to work with either. If I build a box that has the sub laying on it's back with the cone up, I really think I'll lose a lot of the potential from the sub that I would normally get from rear-firing it. Also, I …

Ive got (2) Kicker CVR Aluminized 12"s in a sealed box at the moment. I'm looking to build a ported box for them. Very little space in my trunk though, after replacing the POS factory Bose 6x9s. They hang down a little lower than expected, and also to note my torsion bar broke off the spot weld. I need some box dimensions along with ports and what not. I have a width=35" height=15". Can anyone help me please? It will be in a 2001 Acura 3.2CL Type-S and Im going for http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2477/1341/6190670138_large.jpg this kind of look.

These will be going in the back of a Grand Cherokee. I was originally thinking a single SA-12 but I think I like the idea of less box so I can keep more cargo area and my goal is a daily driver SQ setup so I think the 8's will be just fine for my goals and it stays within my pretty small budget. I have never built a ported box before so the design, tuning, and porting all are things I don't have a grasp on. I want to do a box that is wedge shaped to maximize the space available while leaving as much cargo area as I can. One thing I am not sure about is whether or not to go rear firing or top firing. The rear firing will allow for a slimmer box but I want to make sure I am…

My current front stage has visible speakers in the a-pillars and kick panels. Imaging is great, sound stage is deep/wide and often outside the vehicle. I have wondered what it would sound like if the speakers were hidden. Would the sound stage be wider, deeper and even more transparent because I would not be able to visibly localize the speakers? I stumbled across The McGurk Effect. Just to give you an idea of how visible my front stage is. Hmmm..... time to start re-making a-pillars for a hidden install? And carpet over kicks?

Pretty simple question. Anyone ever personally built and owned two 15s in a seales enclosure? Im gonna be doin It soon probably and was wondering what your results were. My box design Is around 5 cubes after displacements. They'll be two old style havoc 15s. And ill be running them on mg aq1200 until budget gets me a bigger amp or a diff box or set up. Thanks

For those of you that have pondered about getting a sponsorship and dont know how, or some of you that think you deserve one, here are a few helpful hints. #1 Accomplish something. Are you a nobody? Have they heard of you? Do you get noticed? #2 Sell yourself. If you cant sell yourself to them, how are you gonna sell their product? #3 Hold your tongue. I can guarantee you that there isnt one company out there that will sponsor a loudmouth s.o.b. that just makes negative scenes in public or on public forums. As a sposored competitor, you are representing the company. #4 Make a game plan. What comps are you going to? Do you show off your ride or just put a blanket…

seeing that SQ is subjective to the person lisening, I have redefined SQ: 1. Having Quality speakers, able to be clear enuff to sound good over subs doing 152db Daily 2. having an amp ablt to push that set of mids & highs without distorting. 3. Hu has to have SQ Freq control features feel free to add to the list

Hey guys, a friend of mine is looking to install his Tymphany Lat 700 in his Chevy Astro. Currently I'm looking at 40x21.5x10 with 2 3" ports. Length of 15" for the ports tuned to 24Hz. Torres says this is correct. It's mainly a show piece, and he wants to get it moving. Can anyone help me out with a box design or recommendations? It's kind of an odd driver(s) http://www.tymphany.com/files/resources/dlat/LAT700-001.pdf Sub will be used on music not Home Theater

ok so im hopefully gonna get pix tomorrow and start my new build log. ill also get measurements of my hatch area tomorrow. i've got my 4ft3 box tuned at 33hz in my 93 lx mustang hatch right now and its just to big. it currently sets taking up half my backseat(folded down) and a 1/3 of the hatch area. reason for this is it wont slide back anymore in the hatch area cause the box hits rear window. saz-1500 is temporarely mounted to the backseat right behind front seats. so i need help on how to face my sub and port to get the max. loudness and airflow from my rf power hx2 15 while still being able to use my backseat for its intended purpose. also im set on 33hz for port tuni…

Wanting to do my next box with birch, what exactly am I going to need to look for when buying it. Thanks

Figured these could get their own thread, so if anyone else wanted to join in, we'd have a place... Dave, in the center...placating the crowd around the Magnum, as there often is one Teh van in the lane, getting ready for the SQ test and SPL run. How the testing area was set up. Chad's dual Mag D2's...pretty asses Kevin's car getting ready, with the team from NC testing. Dave's doing...something. Beats me. The other Chad's amp rack/battery rack...the drill adds deebeez Motivation for Bucky. He's quiet. The guys from NC with an 18" Solo X And c'mon...a car audio show without the local fuzz showing up is..well, no fun at all Bucky is a menace to society...th…

Yeah i know i haven't posted in a long ass time.. However.. So i finally got the Navi goin a while ago and sold the town car. I kept my same box i had and just threw it in after i reconed my MT's. So needless to say 10x louder in an suv than in a car. But after a week or so off playing music i start to notice rattles and squeaks. So a few days later the bass just isn't hitting. So I go back to the box and see this... Thinkin to myself dam, i might need to start fiber-glassing the inside of my boxes lol. Funny thing is i can listen to my music all day up loud but passengers seem to have sensitive ears..on the broken box at that. lol 2 18" mt's 5k watts btw 150's im hopin …

would applying resin to the entire outside of the box stop the wood from absorbing paint? and would it be a good way to do it? Because i feel like the wood would absorb primer almost as much as it did the paint. I'm just wondering because the last box i built took several cans of paint, (and it was only for 1 10") and even then, the paint only came out ok

well i ran into an issue today, which isnt TOO bad just its one of those things that dont go as planned that you gotta get around well i was going to start a portion of my new build today, or at least test fit (thank god i test fit on this and didnt run into it last minute) but i had originally planned to fit my ID CTX65cs comps in my doors, the mids are 6.5" which generally i can fit that circumfrance, however.. not that specific depth i made these rings to go on the door panel, they are 3/4" MDF, with a 1/4" flush cut out for them.. flush is king and they fit in the rings like a charm (first time i made my own rings - so i was happy) i primered them and painted em so th…

I've been trying to decide if I want a single Din, Double Din, or possibly Car PC in my truck but I think the question can really only be answered after I decide if I want to go 3-way or 2-way Active. I have now currently installed one 2-Way Active setup ran by an 880PRS so that is my extent to an active setup. I have been told to do a 3-way I may have to go with a robust 7 instead of an 8 but would really prefer squeezing an 8 even if that means a custom door pod that I have seen made. I have no problem with using the kicks or glassing as well So I'm really looking for some Pro's and Con's between 2-Way and 3-way. The more I think the more I really just want to go all ou…

For 2 Fi BL 18s in a box that is 2cuft over the manufacturers recommended enclosure size the final net volume after displacement is 18.29. I have the tuning freq set at 33hz. What would you guys tune this box to? Or should i keep it the same? Thanks!

I understand the physics of it, but Casey showed me the Pioneer Death Match winning truck that did deep into the 170's, can someone explain more? I want to understand about them, also when is it benificial to use one and when is it not? here is the pic of the wall

when you build a box with a square or round port, isnt it nearly impossible to stay within the 12-16 sq in of port area per cube rule? if so what is the rule for those? and when making a external port it is still the same length as if it would be internal correct, only it is on the outside...

please list your equipment and your top numbers, what year that happened, what meter, etc, and maybe what you would like to see in the future.

here is a link to some tables, but I would really love to build a TL or Snail Shell box soon to put a small sub in http://www.quarter-wave.com/Theory/Alignment_Tables.pdf

i hate mdf and skilll saws..i meausured everything out and then i cut it and then it all ends up messed up.. i dont understand what i did grr i have to redue everything! i hate this

so i was told my wall was too big, lol which it is 16 cubes for 4 12"s, but beyond that, we still get a solid 152 on 1900 watts clamped, looking to gain fairly large numbers (1.5 db) without increasing power and withing 2 weeks lol. but i was told about a rear loading wall, the guy told me that he stumbled across putting a "wall" inside the wall that has around 2-3" of gap between the edges and was at a slight angle, claims to have gained him 8 db (i doubt it, but he has all the equipment to know what he did and how much it gained). what do you guys think of this, all i can think of is that is sounds like a bandpass with some sort of a horn effect to it... im not sure…

can i make the wicked one to house a single 15"? is so how??

i know birch is lighter, less dust. but is there any thing that makes it better then mdf? the guy building my box is pushing me to do birch only charging me 50 bucks extra for it so its not breaking the bank or anything. does it sound better? im sure it will last longer. its for a daily system not after numbers i only meter when i get new stuff to see how much of a difference it made. edit: for bad spelling

I have a 2004 Cadillac SLS and am looking to fab a 4th order enclosure for 2 SA-8 V.2's on a SAZ 1500 V.3. The reason for the smaller sub is to help save room in the trunk and to still have high output. The reason for the 4th order is the infamous Cadillac trunk bass trap, so I would like to port the enclosure through the stock sub location in my rear deck. I am not too familiar with hertz levels or anything, but I can tell you that I listen to every thing from Hip Hop, R&B, Jazz, and Alternative. New to the forum here and just looking for some experienced suggestions. If you would like more detail please let me know. Would like a little seasoned input before I spend …