SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hey everyone, so, soon I will be getting a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo. I have the majority of my system ready to install. (please dont judge, i was not as educated when i bought this stuff) Rockford Fosgate P2 12" (2011 model) (it meh...), Rockford R500-1 amp (low efficiency, 58% @ 2 ohms) , Sony CDX-GT565UP (love it), and KnuKonceptz 4 gauge kit. right ow I have a crappy box to test with, its 1.72 cuft tuned to 31Hz via 4" aero. I will be building a 2-2.2 cuft box tuned to 32 once i am sure how i want the port and sub positioned. the current box i have the sub is on one side and the port on the other. so it will be easy to experiment how it will be positioned. my qu…

I did a recent install in the wifes jetta an alpine oversized face deck 7998 or something I think I'd have to look.. a PG Xenon x600.1 amp, pushing a single DD 9510F in a 3 cube box 45in^3 port 34hz tune. not too musical imo, but bangs hard on the low bass stuff. I think if I had more power it may help, and a higher tune also would more than likely help, as it's tuned lower than the drivers FS... anyway, in my sig is a link to the vid, and here are a couple pix does a 141.9@34hz car closed on the dash new TL, and a 141.4@32hz. 140s on music peak hold on dash, and I did a rolling average with some chopped and screwed and watched it do 139-140 for a little over 30 seconds.…

Today at my 1st comp... i was able to accomplish 140dB's with my 3.2cube@32hz box. It was on the new Termlab. Yes u may say its weak, but i've got big plans for this coming season... totally redoing my whole box. I took 3rd place in Stock 301-900 in USACi comp here in Sacramento. It was alot of fun... if no one believes i hit 140, ask tyler(marleyskater420), he was there. Pretty cool guy, it was fun meetin up wit him. Anyways guys, i just wanted to let everyone know . I'm pretty stoaked.... seeing as i had 1 12(RE XXX w/ RE35.1), and the person who took 2nd had 2 12s and was 1 dB louder than me. He got 141.1 i believe. 1st place went to Steve Meade, with 2 18s with a bd1…

basiclly the lower i tune my box, it seems the higher DB i get on the graph. @32 =138 @26 = 139.4 @20 = 141 That can't be correct can it?

hi all i was just looking at a cabin gain chart and saw that most vehicles had about 25 db of gain at 25 hz but at 30 hz dropped to about 20 dbs of gain so that got me wondering if i would be better off tuning my box to 25 hz than to 30 hz because of this gain. JW. also does anyone have or know where i can find a cabin gain chart on an 01 tacoma single cab because the chart i have doesnt so i used a dakota instead thanks mike

Im trying to make a box for a single 12" dcon can you guys give me your feedback and let me know what you think please? im new in building boxes this is my first and looking for it to be tuned at 32hz demensions for the box are as seen in the calculator( long story on why i chose those measurements and dont want to even explain why) let me know what you guys think please and also for my port according to this what would be the sizes of the 2 pieces of wood i would cut for it? thats only thing im confused about at this point.

Hi, I have been using fiberglass resin in my boxes for years Does resin help spl because the box is harder or does the resin help with the sound wave, maybe the speed of the wave.I just want to no if I need to resin or not .My spl numbers or the same with or without.Thanks for any help.

I'll be building a new box this weekend for my new Xcon 12. I have seen quite a few boxes with black carpet and white ports lately, and I really do like how they look. So I was gonna try one myself. Parts Express has some black carpet. One has a latex backing and the other one doesn't. Is there a plus to one over the other? Should I be looking else where for carpet? What have you guys used? I've never done carpet, just textured paint, and want something differant. I am just unsure what to get. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Nelson

I need help designing a set of boxes for two 8

Alright guys, here it is. Not too bad for my first time I think. PS. This is on completely Stock electrical (other than a cap) and we all know how well caps help you out and only 1.5k wrms. Music Peak: Test Tone: ~48hz

I am planning a fairly large system as my next project. I'm curious to know what you guys think of oddly shaped enclosures. I'm not talking about the plain jane square boxes, I'm talking about enclosures constructed out of nearly 100% composite materials. You know the ones made to fit oddly shaped areas such as the sides of trunks or in spare tire wells. I am planning on 2 Fi.BTL15's and in order to get them in and still have room for amps I am going to need to use fibreglass for a very large portion of the box to maximize the enclosure size as well as the usable trunk space for amps and such. I am under the impression that shape doesnt matter nearly as much as the size…

got my new amp yesterday... shortly thereafter i made an amp rack after carpetting my box... it's not totally done yet. will make a few changes/additions in the upcoming weeks. tell me whatcha'll think...

In short order: I've layed out so many ideas for the cargo area of my truck that i've gone cross-eyed. The trailblazer's been a test platform since I got her last year. It's about GD time that I finalize something for her. Afterall, it's my daily driven - 400 mile a week vehicle. '02 Trailblazer LS; no third row seats; no ext version. I need to actually be able to utilize the U portion in SUV. So: a.) build an enclosure / rack along one side b.) make a wdith-wise enclosure that is easy to remove I've gotten to the point where I think it's easier to visualize designs in trunk cars simply because you have objects to work with / around. This stationwagon though, is kicking…

I understand the physics of it, but Casey showed me the Pioneer Death Match winning truck that did deep into the 170's, can someone explain more? I want to understand about them, also when is it benificial to use one and when is it not? here is the pic of the wall

I have two DC audio xl 12s just built birch box after diplacment im setting at 4.03 cubes have good electric running skar 4500 so they are seeing 2200 to 2500 rms each here were i need a little help they will be in the back of 2014 Lincoln navigator i have material for 2 4” round ports were should i face subs and port location and whats the best tunning for these subs

I have a question regarding port length and how to measure it in my application. I have decided on one 15in FI-Q in a downfiring ported console encloser for my truck. Question is: I have attached a photo of an example I did and I don't know how to figure the length. And also, how do I figure the port area and will this be enough for a 15in FI Q. A SA-1500v.2 will power the sub. The port will be 3.5in wide and 14.5 in tall (inside diameter) but how long will it be? Looking to tune at roughly 30hz and the box will have 3.65cu after displacement if this works. Is it A, B or C. Red would be airflow Thanks in advance

My next car is hopefully going to be a 2002 Subaru Sti hatch, and I'm going to wall it with 6 Fi IB3's on a 7k. Pic 1 Pic 2 My first question is, should I build just a baffle, was thinking 9" baffle; or should I build a partial box and with the back seat removed leave the rear open to the trunk and deaden the fuck out of the lid, along with magnetic locks around the perimeter to keep it from slapping? The second smaller question is, I was daydreaming and thought of putting a trapdoor in the trunk floor on actuators to vent to the ground when I'm driving on the highway or at a show for more airflow. Worth it, or just a nice passing thought…

So I will be ordering an OA-12v2 D4 very soon after selling my current system (Upgrading from a Fosgate Punch P2 12, 2011 model). I have a Rockford Prime P500-1d to work with, so the sub will see just over 500 watts. I have read in many places that the more power, the smaller that the box can be, and the less power, the larger you can build the box... generally. So I was thinking of doing a 2.5 cuft enclosure for the OA, on the 500w. It will be going in the trunk of my 2000 Civic sedan, most likely sub back, port side. Does this sound appropriate? Is there another way I should approach this? The box will be tuned to 30Hz via 4" aeroport. Thank you for any help, and I apol…

what would be the best sealed box volume for a XXX18 v3 off a 2kW Hertz amp.... and yes.....this sub was made for SQ

So, as you guys know, I'm an SPL nut. But as of lately I'm getting pretty tired of the completely bone stock setup in my daily driver. I had been talking about doing a nice install for a while, but frankly don't really know where to begin. I was talking to a buddy of mine (former IASCA SQ competitor), and he was talking about doing some A-pillars with 3" mids and tweeters and then doing some 7" midbasses in the doors. Frankly, I have no idea how that would work or what equipment to look at. I even thought about just going basic with some nice components in the doors (tweeter and 6.5"), and then maybe getting a little fancy with some 8" woofer kickpods to go along with a…

Hi all I am looking for advice on a design for a single ported enclosure to carry a 13W7 sub. The enclosure would be sitting on the rear right hand seat, directly behind the driver (Right hand drive in Australia). There are a couple of things I need to clarify first... Is the recommended internal volume of 2.375 cubic foot too small for this sub? If so, what would be a better size. Here we only get 18mm thick MDF (about 0.71"), so to make the front baffle stronger, should I just glue and screw two together? - Will it start to rattle / vibrate loose? If I make the box to JL's specs of 2.375, I would have to change the outside dimensions of the box to be (19.7" x 19.7" x 17…

This is my first box im going to build, and its going into a 95 honda accord. I may increase the height to 17 or 18 if i can fit it. I talk to guy at my local audio shop and they would charge me $250 to build it and he told me not to use a areo/tube port that is was 90's tech and nobody uses it now and slot was the way to go. I wanna use a tube port to save space. What are you guys thoughts on this box

my subs are going to be upfiring (towards roof), would it sound best to have the port facing the rear of car? or facing roof (same direction as subs)? Or does it even matter? This is going in a 2door jeep wrangler. Thanks

Ive got (2) Kicker CVR Aluminized 12"s in a sealed box at the moment. I'm looking to build a ported box for them. Very little space in my trunk though, after replacing the POS factory Bose 6x9s. They hang down a little lower than expected, and also to note my torsion bar broke off the spot weld. I need some box dimensions along with ports and what not. I have a width=35" height=15". Can anyone help me please? It will be in a 2001 Acura 3.2CL Type-S and Im going for http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2477/1341/6190670138_large.jpg this kind of look.

These will be going in the back of a Grand Cherokee. I was originally thinking a single SA-12 but I think I like the idea of less box so I can keep more cargo area and my goal is a daily driver SQ setup so I think the 8's will be just fine for my goals and it stays within my pretty small budget. I have never built a ported box before so the design, tuning, and porting all are things I don't have a grasp on. I want to do a box that is wedge shaped to maximize the space available while leaving as much cargo area as I can. One thing I am not sure about is whether or not to go rear firing or top firing. The rear firing will allow for a slimmer box but I want to make sure I am…