SPL & SQ / Fabrication

well i ran into an issue today, which isnt TOO bad just its one of those things that dont go as planned that you gotta get around well i was going to start a portion of my new build today, or at least test fit (thank god i test fit on this and didnt run into it last minute) but i had originally planned to fit my ID CTX65cs comps in my doors, the mids are 6.5" which generally i can fit that circumfrance, however.. not that specific depth i made these rings to go on the door panel, they are 3/4" MDF, with a 1/4" flush cut out for them.. flush is king and they fit in the rings like a charm (first time i made my own rings - so i was happy) i primered them and painted em so th…

I have two DC audio xl 12s just built birch box after diplacment im setting at 4.03 cubes have good electric running skar 4500 so they are seeing 2200 to 2500 rms each here were i need a little help they will be in the back of 2014 Lincoln navigator i have material for 2 4” round ports were should i face subs and port location and whats the best tunning for these subs

I am currently looking for the best method or material that can be used inside an SPL based enclosure that can help get an extensive increase in pressure. Lots of people do different things but most follow others... Typical things tried is- sanding wood, applying resin, resanding, resin over, etc.... Ceramic tiles. Using heavy material such as marble or granite(not what i'm looking for). I am looking to find out if sanding and resining is what should be done, OR.. if laying material inside of an enclosure will yield better results. sanding and resining can lead to human error with imperfections in the smoothness and this is why i'd like to see if there are materials out …

seeing that SQ is subjective to the person lisening, I have redefined SQ: 1. Having Quality speakers, able to be clear enuff to sound good over subs doing 152db Daily 2. having an amp ablt to push that set of mids & highs without distorting. 3. Hu has to have SQ Freq control features feel free to add to the list

Hey everyone, First off I wanna apologize for changing my mind so much. My financial situation has changed, so my future setup ideas have too. Even though I have not followed through with other plans ya'll have helped me with, I have learned a lot for each comment or post I read. On to the enclosure idea. I will be getting a single SA-10 D2 as soon as my current setup sells. I will be running it off of a BRZ1200 @ 1 Ohm (for headroom). My goals are for it to be decently loud (I have had an E-12, hope to be comparable to that), and flat sounding for all music types... From dubstep to decaf to classic rock to country. It will be in my daily which is the trunk of a 2000 H…

For 2 Fi BL 18s in a box that is 2cuft over the manufacturers recommended enclosure size the final net volume after displacement is 18.29. I have the tuning freq set at 33hz. What would you guys tune this box to? Or should i keep it the same? Thanks!

so i was told my wall was too big, lol which it is 16 cubes for 4 12"s, but beyond that, we still get a solid 152 on 1900 watts clamped, looking to gain fairly large numbers (1.5 db) without increasing power and withing 2 weeks lol. but i was told about a rear loading wall, the guy told me that he stumbled across putting a "wall" inside the wall that has around 2-3" of gap between the edges and was at a slight angle, claims to have gained him 8 db (i doubt it, but he has all the equipment to know what he did and how much it gained). what do you guys think of this, all i can think of is that is sounds like a bandpass with some sort of a horn effect to it... im not sure…

i hate mdf and skilll saws..i meausured everything out and then i cut it and then it all ends up messed up.. i dont understand what i did grr i have to redue everything! i hate this

I had a 4th order bandpass box designed for me, but he didn't give me an output graph or tuning frequency or anything else. So before I build the box, I'd like to know what the output graph looks like (if there are any high/low peaks/dips in the curve at certain frequencies). How can I figure out what the 'range' of the box/sub is? I'm not sure how to ask this, but I'd like to know the frequency band width. Whats the lowest the sub should play and the highest the sub should play. So I know where to set my subsonic//lowpass filters. Can anyone help me? Let me know what measurements you might need or just tell me how I can calculate it.

I'll be building a new box this weekend for my new Xcon 12. I have seen quite a few boxes with black carpet and white ports lately, and I really do like how they look. So I was gonna try one myself. Parts Express has some black carpet. One has a latex backing and the other one doesn't. Is there a plus to one over the other? Should I be looking else where for carpet? What have you guys used? I've never done carpet, just textured paint, and want something differant. I am just unsure what to get. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Tony Nelson

These will be going in the back of a Grand Cherokee. I was originally thinking a single SA-12 but I think I like the idea of less box so I can keep more cargo area and my goal is a daily driver SQ setup so I think the 8's will be just fine for my goals and it stays within my pretty small budget. I have never built a ported box before so the design, tuning, and porting all are things I don't have a grasp on. I want to do a box that is wedge shaped to maximize the space available while leaving as much cargo area as I can. One thing I am not sure about is whether or not to go rear firing or top firing. The rear firing will allow for a slimmer box but I want to make sure I am…

So I hate posting help ? On here but here I go again....can some body help me find how to bring down my box rise I will like to get as close to 2 ohms as I can....right.now I rise to 3.5 and I was searching on here but cant find nothing...I no bracing and better airflow accounts so I just need to be pointed in the right direction thats all

Pretty simple question. Anyone ever personally built and owned two 15s in a seales enclosure? Im gonna be doin It soon probably and was wondering what your results were. My box design Is around 5 cubes after displacements. They'll be two old style havoc 15s. And ill be running them on mg aq1200 until budget gets me a bigger amp or a diff box or set up. Thanks

Today at my 1st comp... i was able to accomplish 140dB's with my 3.2cube@32hz box. It was on the new Termlab. Yes u may say its weak, but i've got big plans for this coming season... totally redoing my whole box. I took 3rd place in Stock 301-900 in USACi comp here in Sacramento. It was alot of fun... if no one believes i hit 140, ask tyler(marleyskater420), he was there. Pretty cool guy, it was fun meetin up wit him. Anyways guys, i just wanted to let everyone know . I'm pretty stoaked.... seeing as i had 1 12(RE XXX w/ RE35.1), and the person who took 2nd had 2 12s and was 1 dB louder than me. He got 141.1 i believe. 1st place went to Steve Meade, with 2 18s with a bd1…

Well, a buddy of mine has one of these, it's a single cab, long bed. He just got a new, sweet ass small block 350 in it, sounds mean. But his audio, just makes me want to cry.. Stock 28 year OLD 5x7's in the rear, if what he told me is right, and it has no front speakers, doors or top of dash. Well, I told him I could fabricate him some 6.5's into his doors, there's plenty of space, and I was just wondering how would I do the wiring since it doesn't have any power options in the doors what so ever. So what I'm asking, do I drill a hole into the side of the door near the inside of truck and vise versa and find some rubber grommets or what? Thanks for helping!

Alright, i was suggested to use the recommended xcon enclosure (7.65 tuned to 30) but sub up and port back apparently is better in the jeep grand cherokees. All i did was move the sub to the top, will this work? Will it load strangely with the port? Or should i just design a new box lol. like so

Hello guys, I used to get designs from Ram, but he's no longer in business. Who can help me ? I need a design for a new box. The sub is an Orion HCCA (latest one, 2500 w rms). Tha car is a 206 Peugeot, it's small hatchback car. Ampifier : Crescendo BC 2000 Max dimensions : 35 x 40 x 90 cm 13.78" x 15.74" x 35.43" or 13" 3/4 x 15" 3/4 x 35" 2/5 I want a L port, with a 34 Hz tuning. Goal is loud, musical, not only focus on the lows. It's not a burp setup at all. Sub up, port up. Please. I'm in a hurry !

My goal this yr. is farely ambitious. I want to post the loudest Trunk score in DBDrag. This is not gonna be an easy task by no means. Thier are some seriously big shoes to fill following in the likes of Dave Dasilva, Mike Stiers, Don Doyle, Steve Sears to name a few. I will have to achieve at least 154+ to achieve my goal. My starting point See ya in the Lanes

Wanting to do my next box with birch, what exactly am I going to need to look for when buying it. Thanks

Hi, I have been using fiberglass resin in my boxes for years Does resin help spl because the box is harder or does the resin help with the sound wave, maybe the speed of the wave.I just want to no if I need to resin or not .My spl numbers or the same with or without.Thanks for any help.

Hey guys im switching from CVXs to BLs im wondering if my old box would be ok with the new subs till I get a new one built. Car Tunes built the box and its suppose to be "spec" for the size of my truck and the space im utilizing. They said its a 1 chamber for 2 subs. I went outside and measured it...dual 15s btw 20.5in long 42in wide 18.5in high The port measured 2.5 in wide 16.5 long I just wanna know if this box is close to whats recommended. Im sure they need more port volume but I don't build boxes so someone enlighten me please lol. Any input is greatly appreciated guys! Thanks

when you build a box with a square or round port, isnt it nearly impossible to stay within the 12-16 sq in of port area per cube rule? if so what is the rule for those? and when making a external port it is still the same length as if it would be internal correct, only it is on the outside...

I've been trying to decide if I want a single Din, Double Din, or possibly Car PC in my truck but I think the question can really only be answered after I decide if I want to go 3-way or 2-way Active. I have now currently installed one 2-Way Active setup ran by an 880PRS so that is my extent to an active setup. I have been told to do a 3-way I may have to go with a robust 7 instead of an 8 but would really prefer squeezing an 8 even if that means a custom door pod that I have seen made. I have no problem with using the kicks or glassing as well So I'm really looking for some Pro's and Con's between 2-Way and 3-way. The more I think the more I really just want to go all ou…

My next car is hopefully going to be a 2002 Subaru Sti hatch, and I'm going to wall it with 6 Fi IB3's on a 7k. Pic 1 Pic 2 My first question is, should I build just a baffle, was thinking 9" baffle; or should I build a partial box and with the back seat removed leave the rear open to the trunk and deaden the fuck out of the lid, along with magnetic locks around the perimeter to keep it from slapping? The second smaller question is, I was daydreaming and thought of putting a trapdoor in the trunk floor on actuators to vent to the ground when I'm driving on the highway or at a show for more airflow. Worth it, or just a nice passing thought…

After comparing torres to the RE calc, I realized that it was off (re) by a lot more than I had expected. About an entire cubic foot off. So I think now would be a good time to build a new box. The main question I have is in reference to the "Port Top/Bottom" measurement, I'm not sure where the 4.50" comes from? I'm also not quite sure about how a slot port with no bend's would act since I don't think i've seen many people build one without bends. Main goal is to have the Hifonics brz15 laying face up and the port facing either the trunk or in the cabin, and to be removable (the box). Are there any real advantages to an inward facing port? I've heard that you would want y…