SPL & SQ / Fabrication

How would I go about flush mounting this? What bit, how to do it, etc. 2.65 cu. ft. box @ 30hz (XCON pre designed enclosure)

I am just wondering a little about amplifers and competition...... this makes me think because the wattage output of amplifers on the normal consumer market, is growing exponentially fast, for example a few years ago the Earthquake D2 was one of only a few amplifers that could be had for a not so bad price and was doing well over 2000 watts.... I am curious more about this in the purpose of street classes where 12volts and only one battery is allowed now Orion, Kicker, Hifonics, MMATS, PowerBass, American Bass, SPL Dynamics, Harrison Labs, Tru Technologies, Phoenix Gold, Zapco, Cadence, Rockford Fosgate, US Amps (the list goes way on) all make or sell a amplifer model tha…

So I am stuck, cannot decide what to do or which direction to even go at this point, need some assistance and I will try to make this short as to avoid the TLDR syndrome. To start off here is what I have currently in the vehicle (a 2009 Honda Fit), (2) Sundown SA 12’s wired to 1ohm on a SAZ1500D. They currently sit in a ported box that is 20”Hx31”Wx16”D, with (3) 4” aero ports 12” long, yielding a box of 4cuft net, tuned at 38Hz subs up port back. While this has been the loudest box I have built, it’s not the only one. I built another 17”x39.5”x16” with (1) 6” aero port tuned at 34Hz sub/port up, and finally another with the same dimensions however this last one was a slo…

Hi guys, out of the 18 years and over 10 systems I have only had a ported box once. Well I have decided to give it a try and am going to build my own ported enclosure. I can say there are a few things iI need to know. I am building an enclosure for a 15" sub for the trunk of a 2001 pontiac grand prix gtp, so height can't be over 16". I want the enclosure to work for my current sub but be able to put the subwoofer im going to buy later in it. I plan to buy either a DD 2515, DC level 3 or 4, or SSA xcon. For now i have an Alpine mrd-m1005 amp. I am going to get a bigger amp later as well because i like to over power subs a bit so i can get loud for local drags and so I coa…

2 SA12s, ported to about 30-33hz, whatever you think is best. I would like two seperate optimal boxes to go in the back of a Dodge Charger, with 1200rms. Im looking for decent SQ (at least at low volumes) but mainly SPL

hey guys, im going to attempt to build the box for this zcon but i cant draw if my life depended on it. so if i get the max dimensions up on here, can someone sketch me one up right quick? 4.5cubes tuned@ 34 would be nice. let me know if anyone can help me out! Thanks

Hello all, I have been a traditional sealed box kind of guy, but I want to try something different. I am going to build a bandpass box for some SA-10's that will be pushed by a SAZ-1500Dv2. The port will be pushing through a ski hole in the back seat. The sub that I have now fires through the port, but I am hoping to eliminate some of the trunk rattles by creating a port that extends through the ski pass. I have taken a few pics to give you guys an idea of what I am trying to do. I want to fire through a port where the homemade ski pass, the trunk is sealed very well, so I opted to cut a hole. I have come up with some figures for the SA-10s by using an online ca…

im headin out to the store tomrrow to get some stuff well im there i wana pic up some new screws that will keep my sub down nice and thight. i did not go with a dubble baffle and with my new 15inch ssd on its way, i wana make sure that my sub does not lift out. here is the thing my last sub a audioq 2.5 was jumping around pretty hard in the same box the ssd is goin in. Can any one lead me to the right screws so i will not have a issue? I will be bolting the box down better to make sure the box it self is not goin no where as well. thanks guys Joe

Hey everyone, So ive desided to build my first sub box and am pretty much lost. I have 2 10" Alpine type-s subs being powered by a MRP-M500 alpine mono-block. At the moment i have them in a pre-fabbed folded horn box and just want an upgrade. On the Alpine site, they list the"optimum" vented box's stats which are tuned to about 36hz, which sounds good to me. So..... Would it work if i built 2 seperate boxes that share a single wall seperating the two? If i did that would I run one vent for each side and keep all the stats for each box to alpine's site? Ok, this question is confusing me just thinking about it so if it doesnt mak…

im in need of a 3- 4" aeroports at parts express. their kits only go up to a 17" port tube. what should i do when i need atleast 21-24" of port length? i went to my local home depot and compared the pvc pipe with a 3" areoport i had laying around and they do not match up. so do i need to order "special" tubing for my application? thanks!

Okay, so ive been trying to decide what i want to do with my 600 dollar tax return. i get it in a week. =) not bad for only working two months eh? lol anyways... I have a 96 tacoma regular cab pickup with the bench seat in it. I have had a few systems in it. I have a brutus bxi2008d. My PLAN is to get an SA 12 and build a box as big as can behind my seat. (after many measurements and few boxes that ive already built i think i can get about 2.3 cube inside of a 3/4 box before any displacements) with that said onto my questions... i have been using the12volts calculator for port length.... with from i have heard the general rule of thumb is 12-16 inches of port area per c…

Aight guys, I have 10" american xfl sub a ported box tuned to 30hz in my sedan and I was thinking about switching it up and doing a 4th order bandpass box with a flared port tube shooting thru the rear deck. Also the rear deck will custom fiberglassed and molded to securely mount the port and speakers. Or should I just leave the ported box and fiberglass the rear deck with a vent for the bass to come thru. I'm just trying to eliminate having to keep the armrest down or having the seats folded down so that the bass isn't trapped in the trunk. Here's a video of a lexus with a 4th order bandpass box ported thru the rear deck thru the factory sub location http://www.caraudio.…

Little problems nothing serious. Built enclousure for some 18inchrolling zcons limited on space but couldnt pass the offer up on some z's. Box is small for ported box and tuned high with a smallamount of port are, basically if you could mess a box up and screw yourself over in output this is the box. 180inchs of port area withc4.5cubes per 18 tuned at 40hz not that happy with the output even on a .5ohm load on a sendo with electrical back it up. My question iss would i see a day and night difference if i built a single 18 box the biggest i could build out of my space? Pics of the franksteinvbox xustom finish on it.

my sub amp is a kenwood excelon. u cant bypas the xover... right now i just cranked it 200hz at a fixed 18db slope. and use an 80 hz 18 (or 12) on the hu. i forget if the 2 frequencies combine or if there separate of each other.... i think it was explained to me once awhile back that they somehow combine so i would have like a 75 hz with 36db slope.... what would u recommend i do...

These will be going in the back of a Grand Cherokee. I was originally thinking a single SA-12 but I think I like the idea of less box so I can keep more cargo area and my goal is a daily driver SQ setup so I think the 8's will be just fine for my goals and it stays within my pretty small budget. I have never built a ported box before so the design, tuning, and porting all are things I don't have a grasp on. I want to do a box that is wedge shaped to maximize the space available while leaving as much cargo area as I can. One thing I am not sure about is whether or not to go rear firing or top firing. The rear firing will allow for a slimmer box but I want to make sure I am…

So I am thinking of adding another Xcon 15" (1ohm) and not sure if I should stay ported or go sealed...I have a Hifonics BRX2000.1D which currently runs my ported 15" (1ohm dvc) w/ 1400rms @ 2ohm. I don't intend to upgrade the amp as right now my stock alternator seems fine, and have no plans to upgrade alternator anytime soon...sooo... Running two subs will pretty much leave me with 1k rms for each sub...and the idea of staying ported or going sealed is keeping me awake at night! Not to mention enclosure size and design. In the back of my Santa Fe has a storage compartment which houses my amps, but I get the feeling with it being so hollow it could be echoing my ba…

I am noticing some mixed thoughts on enclosure bracing. My opinion on bracing is to brace areas larger than two square feet. Again that is my humble opinion, no scientific study. I have done a little bit of research and I have not been able to come up with an definitive answer. I had a Team SSA member tell me today that a mounting baffle for 8 12" subwoofers does not need bracing. That seems like a far stretch for me to believe. But then again, I am basing my enclosure bracing off a hunch. Can anybody name a scientific evaluation that has been performed on enclosure bracing and it's proper application? Or even a good article written by a reputable source on enclosure brac…

Has anyone ever had 2 boxes or separate chambers with 2 different tuning frequencies? ie. 2 subs, 1 box/chamber @ 26hz other @34hz. If so, can you explain your thoughts on how well it worked or didnt work for you. I was thinking about this option, but I am beginner enough to not consider all of the pros and cons in depth. Thanks for the input.

Not sure how to explain what Im experiencing...but it seems that when running sine wave freq sweeps my system drops out about the 57-63Hz. Very annoying, and cannot seem to find a way to fix. I have 6.5 coponents in the doors (stock locations) and a 15" Xcon ported (tuned to 32Hz), doors have been sound deadened (dynamat,mlv etc) I have tried using different crossover settings (50,63,80,100HZ etc) to separate the sub and components, I have tried letting the sub only play these freqs, tried the components only, tried to EQ (my HU only allows 40,80...) Im just baffled...could this possibly be a Null from my listening position? Maybe the components being too far off axis? E…

ok, i did a 143.9 w/ my 2 15's. and i'm wanting to redo the box to try for louder. i'm putting about 750-800 to them a piece. do you think i could get 1 15 w/ 1600w louder than the 2? or would i be better off sticking w/ the 2?

What is box impediance rise and how is it calculated.

So I hate posting help ? On here but here I go again....can some body help me find how to bring down my box rise I will like to get as close to 2 ohms as I can....right.now I rise to 3.5 and I was searching on here but cant find nothing...I no bracing and better airflow accounts so I just need to be pointed in the right direction thats all

My question is, is it worth it to double up on 3/4" mdf on all sides, or should i just strengthen the side holding the sub? 18" Fi Bl--- p chamfer and flatwind 39"x18"x22" (sub is on 39x22 side) tuned to 34.4xxx hz any suggestions? thanks. also, this is a daily driver, not going to a termlab anytime soon, just want it to be a good, solid setup for daily driving.

Hey Guys Call me a NOOB or Whatever you want, but i need your help, i have tried Kicker L7's, Pioneer Premier Spl, Alphasonik Mayhem and not really achieving alot , only the kicker sounded good but you only get one type of bass, now i want to set up a system thats gona be loud outside and shake the ground, i need your help here because i'm gonna try FI's should i get BL's or BTL's and should i go 2-12" or 1-15", i have a 09 sonata and currently have a MTX TE1501D amp but will upgrade to MMATS 3000.05 next month my trunk is huge but i still need cargo space, so i'm willing to sacrifice 36W x 17H x 19.5D, can you guys plz help me with a box plan also, i listen to mostly r…