SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have a small problem with my box, its too big now and need something smaller. We just had a baby boy last week and now I need the back of my van for the stroller so I need to build a new box that is smaller but still can use my two 10" subs and still be able to mount the 2 amps somewhere as I do not have room under my seats. Right now my box is 48" wide X 14" high X 12" deep, I would like to make a box that is taller rather then wider. I have 40" high X 14" deep to play with, the stroller is 21" wide. I was thinking of using the 40" high to make the box. I'm runing 2 X Earthquake dbx10 single 4 ohms on a Alpine MRD-M1000 @ 2 ohms so around 1000 watts rms. The box will …

Hey all.I just got a 2007 dodge caliber and im wanting to get a system in it.I have my max deminsions that I wuld like to use.They are 38W x 23H x 11D .My question is what would be the best route to go?Im wanting like 4 10's, specifically FI BL 10's.but not sure if I have enough rooms for them.So would I have enough room or would I need to go a different route? OH and I would have the subs and port facing the hatch.Thanks and let me know if this would work or if I need to go a different way.

hey guys, im going to attempt to build the box for this zcon but i cant draw if my life depended on it. so if i get the max dimensions up on here, can someone sketch me one up right quick? 4.5cubes tuned@ 34 would be nice. let me know if anyone can help me out! Thanks

I have seen a few posts on here recently about trunk cars and the difficulties that some have experienced with their sub bass system. I think this may help. There are a few primary problems that are encountered when we install subwoofer enclosures into a sedan type vehicle with a trunk. The most obvious problem is the reduced amount of bass in the main listening cabin. The next possible problem is that there is more bass with the trunk open than when closed. A third problem is the excessive rattling of the trunk body panels. Proper damping will greatly reduce the vibrating body panels and yield slightly higher SPL in the vehicle, but will not resolve the other issues inh…

I tried to search for this, but couldn't find what I'm looking for.. I drive an '06 KIA Spectra. I'm having good luck with a Rockford P3 dual 2 15" in a slot ported enclosure, tuned to about 32HZ. I'm running that with a Cadence ZRS7000D. I understand the machanics behind sealing off the trunk, but I've never listened to sealed off trunk car. I'm wondering if they are purely for muscle, or can they be musical? Is it worth putting in the effort if I don't drive around with my seat folded down?? My poor trunk can't handle the pressure!

i am planning on upgrading my system, but im still undecided if i should make it ported or a 4th order box, what will be the pros or cons of each, and what would be better it will be a blowthrough on a silverado, planning for 4 15" dc lvl 4 and a dc 5k, but right now i just want to build a box first, thanks

Hey guys im considering getting this passive radiator for my Fi BL12 TC Sounds VMP 15" The reason is i dont have room to port an enclosure underseat but i may be able to fit this. If i decide to go this route im going to design a port for the enclosure and then calculate the mass of air in that port to add the the PR, is this correct? I just want to run this idea by you guys since you all know so much

I'm starting a box for my new 12 this weekend. Using a 6" aero for this one. Most of my boxes in the past have been sealed or slot port. Was shooting for 1.75cf3 after displacements and a tune in the low 30's. I'm limited in depth (~14") but had plenty of width (~56"). I came up with this design. It's long and shallow, similar to a truck box I built a long time ago albeit smaller. Concerns: The length to height/depth ratio. Would it matter? The distance between the sub and port inlet. It is currently ~4" from port to the closest edge of the sub tuned at 30hz. I can move it in more, each 2" decrease in length equates to about 1hz. Just concerned about unloading. Maybe it w…

Where can I get Bassorcist tracks? I see people playing them all over youtube but I cannot find anything!

ok i posted this on another spot on this fourm but i think i might have put it in the wrong spot....im building a box (hopefully my btl will be here soon) im going with sub up and port back....i was wondering if its would be best to put the sub over the port or closer to the front of the box or just in the center

So I just bought a single Nightshade 15 for the trunk of my 2007 300C. I'm just gonna figure out what works best for the box so as to not block my spare. I was considering porting a box towards the back seats, with the sub inverted on the back of the box (so you can see it when you open the trunk). Any problems doing this? Having the sub inverted would let me fit the box more tightly towards the seats in my opinion, but I'm new to box building. Thanks for any help

hey guys, i know i have a thread already about this topic, but that was for my ranger. i now have a 2002 f150 ext. cab and my zcon is on its way so i want to start building a box. i took some measurements tonight and i have up to 6 cubes to play with here. i want ported obviously tuned to aorund 34Hz? i love my lows deep and loud haha. i will have it getting 2300 watts from my aq3500 and yes i have the electrical to back it up with no problem. now, how many cubes do you guys suggest i should go for with this kind of power, and the tuning i want? i will have the sub and port up unless told otherwise. let me know what you guys think!!

Im thinking of wallin my truck (2000 gmc Sierra ext cab) and dropping another death penalty in there. But I have some questions. What is the best side for the body or dead center? Also would the area around it have to be completely sealed or can there be gaps along the sides behind a beauty panel? Do I double the port area? And will this affect sound quality?

Does anyone have experience with sub tunnels(diamond,hexagon, octagon) or manifold style boxes? I was wondering how they are for spl at low frequencies 25 to 30 hz(compared to a straight wall)?

ok heres the deal. i my box is sub and port same direction as of now i have them firing port up sub up. and there is around 4 inchs space before the trunk lid, and i am scoring a 148. i think i maybe able to squeeze the box in sub back port back.. but i will only have 2 or 3 inchs between the subs and port and wall of my trunk. if i change it up now.. and lose my score then im fucked for this weekend. i have talked with another town car SPL guy. and he stated, in all his testing center port back. he lost 3 DB. from having port on one side, and lost .5 db's on the dash (meca) with sub up port up i guess my short question is.. and at this point its just a g…

Alright, so I'm planning a build for my S10 reg cab, and need help designing the box. It's going to be 2 SA-10's in a 2 cu. ft box net, ported, tuned to 33-35 Hz. Also powered by a SAZ-1500. My max dimensions are 50"L, 22"H, 9"D bottom, 5"D top. I made up a box using the torres box calculator, but I was having problems with the port. I'm planning on using aeroports, but they were needing to be too long for that tuning in a small box. Not sure what diameter, and how many I would need. If anyone can help me out I'd appreciate it!

I'm wanting to know if I build a box like this and would it be ok with the ports like this. It would go in a 95 honda accord 9.67ft^3 gross, 7.34ft^3 after ports, after bracing somewhere between 7 and 6.5cubes after bracing, depends on if i invert it or not thanks for any suggestions or comments

http://www.youtube.com/user/IHUNTEI2?feature=mhee#p/u/1/MOBX7dNh6wA how does this look for a 6th order design?

I ordered two 12" D1 Icons and want to build a box for them before they get here, but I have only built one box before and have had three pre-fab box's before. In all of my sub setups (total of 4) it seemed that my very first enclosure "folded horn" box which is what the salesman told me it was. . Was it actually a folded horn box, I have no idea, BUT according to everyone else apparently you could hear me about 5 blocks away with two 10" memphis subs 250rms each. That box seemed the cleanest i've ever had and it had the port in the middle of the box with a wall in the middle of the port running parallel with it, so basically each subwoofer had its own chamber. My questi…

Im gonna make a box for a buddy of mine and he wants it to be 8cu ft and tuned to 34hz...i was wondering the size of the aeroport i need...lenth, and what size pipe should i do

i know birch is lighter, less dust. but is there any thing that makes it better then mdf? the guy building my box is pushing me to do birch only charging me 50 bucks extra for it so its not breaking the bank or anything. does it sound better? im sure it will last longer. its for a daily system not after numbers i only meter when i get new stuff to see how much of a difference it made. edit: for bad spelling

i pieced together a simple system for a friend of mine and installed everything, only thing left to do is make the box and slap it in there! we both a totall newbs at sub enclosures and already failed miserably at making one for this sub (long story short, it turned out to be a fart box. box is sub forward port back which makes it interchangeable in positions 5 ways which we like a lot) so i need you guys to help us out on a box design/specs, i dont wanna be pushy but we need the specs by tomorrow because he really wants to build a box thats right and hear his sub how it should be already. hes a carpenter so the woodworking skills and tools are all here and ready. the ma…

What is the best place to find 4" id aero ports that don't flare out past 6.75" maybe 7" that won't break the bank? What would be the best brand for the price? Is it better or easier to use schedule 40 pvc pipe or the tubes you can buy for the flares or get a whole kit? Will any flare fit pvc pipe? Would they work if the port inside the box faced each other about 16" apart, firing in opposite directions? Ps i will have 4 sa-8s in about 2.73 cubes before any displacement with about 500 watts going to each and i do not have enough room to use 6". And i want to have it tuned for daily use, anywhere in between 33-40 hz

i should have the money soon for the zcon 15 so i want to start getting ideas and thoughts on a box size for the sub. im putting it in my '95 ranger. for electric, i have a iraggi 260amp alternator, big 3, shuriken bt60 bat. and all 0 gauge wiring. i have a audioque 3500.1 that i will be running at 2 ohm (should have 2000watts which is plenty for 1 zcon 15) reason being is that it will be much easier on my electrical, and easier on the amp as well. im more for SQ on this build for those wondering. i love the low lowsss haha. i havent found any box recommendations so im looking for a bit of help. any is appreciated!

I plan on going with 3 -10's box will be 3.2cf after sub displacement will be using 2-3 6" external aero ports. Tuned to 32hz and running 2k. Subs in mind are sa's or skar 10's maybe even custom built 10's from splaudio. Box will be subs back port to the front.