SPL & SQ / Fabrication

hello hello. ive just built box for (2) Nightshade 15's, its tuned at 33 hz and really gets down.. im trying to brace my box and dont wanna take a chance of screwing up my tuning and overall eclosure. my box measures 49x24x20. with a port opening of 18.5hx8.5t. i guess im seeking advice on placement and what exatly would be the best to use. my face is doubled and my overall box is 1.25 thick.

Okay so I am new to this. I am going to be building this in the near future and the hard part is that it's for a regular cab short box s-10 pickup. I do not know if i should go with a "blowout or just put a topor on the truck and put the sub in the back under that. My plan is to run a 2 F.I B.T.L 15" To a Audio Que 3500 H.D Running 1 ohm Power @ 18V** @ 10% THD 7500W x 1. I am trying to find a descent sub box to make up for this. And i have a couple ?'s Like i said i am new to this so am i going to need to push some more power to these beast's or is this going to be enough i mean i want something that is going to wake you up not put you to sleep. Am i going to have to d…

To burp a sub would I just go wth a bigger amp and turn the gain up and give it a burst for 5 seconds or so?

Just need a little help with my box. Running 2 15" Lanzars http://www.lanzar.com/itempage.asp?MODEL=MAXP154D This is the box I've drawn up. Driving a 2004 Ford Taurus. Not very good with boxes. Can anyone come up with a better design?.. Max dimensions 36L x 18H x 20W I'm not sure about "tuning" to certain hz but I would like to hit LOWWW bass please Current Design:

I've been searching on here and the internet about port area. I've seen anywhere from 12"/sqft to 25"/sqft. Some say a smaller PAF will act more like a sealed enclosure and tighter sounding with higher power handling. A larger PAF will act more free air with a higher output at lower frequency but will sound loose and lower power handling. I thought the box had more effect than port area does. Where I'm at now. I have a single v1 sa8 in .63 net tuned at 37hz with 17"/sqft. I'm running a sax1200 at 2ohm gained down to 600wrms (clamped). I like the sound but seems that the output is a little lower than I expected. I really have my eye on the new v2 sa8 and would like t…

i will be running 4 skar 10's, the box will be in an extended cab dodge dakota, the rough dimensions of the box will be 48" wide, 26" tall, and 15" deep, subs will be on top. now i know if the subs were on the front pannel i would double baffle because of the amount of surface area there is on that panel, but if the panel the subs are on is only 48"x15" would i really need a double baffle? i mean of course i will brace is with allthread or wooden dowels, but i dont want to double baffle if i dont need to, mainly becase that would require me buying an additional 4x8 sheet of mdf.

Anyone done a fiberglass build in a mazda 6 sedan? I have this idea of putting my 15" ssd in the center, behind the seats, with two 6" aeroports (one on each side of the sub). This would be firing into the cabin. I have my rear seats down 90% of the time, so I would imagine it would sound great. Anyone done it, or know how? I am looking for someone to take on this project for me, as I have never done it, and wouldnt quite say I have the time to do it either.. Anywho, im in Keller Tx and if anyone is interested I am willing to pay. Im looking to stay in the 3.5-4 cu ft. range, tuned at 33-35 hz. Im rocking a 08 mazda 6 sedan (not the cool hatch model). If you need anymore…

Like the title says, im building a new speakerbag. The fun of causing mischief at the mall and walmart n stuff has disappeared, I want this one for something easily movable, for bragging rights, but mostly as my room system. The backpack aspect makes it more fun =) I am purchasing 12 bazooka OEM 5" subwoofer/midbass drivers, and three 20wrms x2ch Class T amps. I have my two previous batteries (12v Motorcyle battery, 12.5v modem battery) to power the amps, they run on 12v. I have four 5.25" mid/highs speakers already, and will add foam baffles to finish those off If i can work them in. I'm thinking (8) 5's isobaric, sealed, w/ polyfill, in .5cuft. I'm not really looking f…

Hey guys I just recently got two SA 8s and I am getting ready for a custom enclosure. I have been thinking about maybe upfiring them into the rear deck of my new Infiniti M35x and cutting holes for the port and woofers. The only issue is that I did this with some Image Dynamic 8s and wasn't thrilled about the how they sounded. Certain people say that give you a cleaner sound any input? I was also thinking about doing something funky like firing port backwards and subs up like you would in an SUV to see if that made a difference in the trunk. Should I just stick with the conventional trunk box? I was also wondering what people were running for box size (i heard .6 per sub …

Hey guys I have a couple questions. I did a build on 2- SA-12" V.2 Nightshade and I had a custom box built that is 3.0 cf box w/ a port face that is 40x1.2" and is 23" long (specs I got from SA). The subs are firing up and the port is firing back at the bottom of the box. This roughly give me 48 inches of port tuned at 36 hrz, I heard from SA tech that I needed 15 inches of port for each SQ FT. It sounds great, the only problem is it doesn't sound as loud as my ProBox super bass box did. Any suggestions? I talked with SA tech again and they said raise the tuning frequency by cutting off a little off of the port. I checked with ProBox and the Super Bass Boxes are tuned at …

I have a chance to pick up some 6" aluminum tube from work for cheap. Would this cause too much of a hollow sound or echo? I plan on securing them in the box. Possible having an end made that flares. Anyone tried this?

I currently use DIY interconnects in the form of a twisted pair with drain wire terminated with soldered RCA ends. This has worked very well for my current setup and has been fairly cheap. Although, the twisted pair is more likely used for a balanced signal then an unbalanced signal (all my runs are unbalanced). I have been researching various interconnect methods and their craziness. I have noted form numerous sources that coaxial interconnects are better suited for unbalanced signals. From what I gathered, using coaxial cable in the vehicle environment can be expensive and difficult. The difficulties arise with inflexible cabling and long RCA ends. I can image the troub…

i have one orion hcca 12 with a hifonic 2600d that will run @ 2 ohms ...lookin around for design an the 12 xcon optimal ported 2.65 ft3 tune to 30 is the perfect size i need cant this box work well for the hcca12???lookin for loudness..... thanks

We Started today, with this. Enclosure in and playing. But ALL the pressure goes right to the back. Took the woofers out. 2 DC Lv4 XL 18"s. Picture of how large the gap is. Supplies Mocking up the start of the seal. Sealing up the bottom Priming Port for red paint. Then, red paint. Cutting out 1/2 MDF to make seal. Driver side sealing done!! Starting on passenger side. Making sure boot stays in place. ALL DONE........ Until suede tomorrow. P.S. This is the truck. and just so it's known, this is his just a toy. Nissan BEFORE Wall seal This is his daily. McGauhy's 2/4 Drop, Ls3, Magna Flow Dual Turn down's.

Which port, on average, is after for spl? What is the major goods and bads of each? I will be using 1 maybe 2 dc xl 12s and then later 3 level 2 8s or sa-8s.

If have been thinking about this for too long and my brain is no longer able to figure this out on it's own Are L-pads ever used in a car audio application? I understand their use in a passive setup for home audio but what about an active setup in car audio? Hmmmmm adjusting the amplifier gain will not change sensitivity so an L-pad would be used to attenuate a higher sensitivity driver? Reason I am asking is that it can be difficult to match mid/tweeter/midbass sensitivities for an active 3-way setup. Let's say that the midbass and tweeter sensitivity is 88db 1w/1m (4 ohm). And that the midrange sensitivity is 91db 1w/m (8 ohm). I think 91db 1w/1m@8ohm is the same as …

Hey guys, I know iv posted so many topics about my box but its time for another one. I WAS going rebuild my box for my 18" BTL N2, and make it closer to 7.5 cuft net. Iv been thinking about future upgrades though, and im thinking in the end of it all ill be powering my BTL off of two AB VFL 100.1's strapped (3000wrms). Now with that much power to my subwoofer, would 7.5cuft be a little too big? Iv been talking to one or two people about it and they said it might be a better idea to keep it around 5.5-6 cuft with that much power running to it.

Ive seen people that compete use thin pvc pipes cut in half and taping it to the walls/edges of the enclosure. Does this help create better airflow? Increase SPL?

Alright guys, im in college for Mechanic Apprenticeship and one of my courses next semester is Electrical Accessories, Guess what we get to build! A sub box, Considering i already have a daily box for my BTL 18, i was considering building something for pure SPL if i ever want to try out a competiton.. Anyways, i was just curious from your experiences what platform is the best for pure spl builds, just a basic slot port, 4th order, 6th order ect. (This will be in the trunk so no walls.) Once i get some information about this ill sit down and see what i can come up with.

Alright, so iv been looking at the inside of my car lately and it makes me a bit sad. My car is black on the outside, with a 2 tone grey interior and wood trim pieces. What i was thinking is to get a bit creative and change up the looks of my interior. I wont be upholstering or anything, i was just thinking about taking off some of the pieces and painting them black... Not sure yet... Give me your opinion if youve ever done something like this. Heres a few pictures so you can see what im working with.

so im planning on building a wall in my civic soon just want some tips... how do i calculate the box when theirs curves i have to go around... also should i have the port on the top or the bottom of the wall ?? also does each sub need its own chamber ?? i have 2 18s so does the wall need a piece in the middle to seperate the subs ?

Hey guys, Will be building my first box in the next week or so and I really just want to make it right the first time so i would be really grateful if you could check over my numbers before i go any further. Specs 2003 Ford focus 12" SI Mag re coned with fi softparts. So basically its the same spec as a Fi Q Aim 32 hz @ 2.5cuft (biggest recommended box for this sub) Subwoofer displacement - 0.16 cuft Port Displacement - 0.69cuft (Really didn't know how to work this out! Do you calculate the port as a separate component or just account for the wood that makes the port if so this is wrong) Baffles displacement - 0.10cuft (in my design i have quite a few baffles to brace t…

I have an RE Audio SX 18. I've heard rumors that this sub can do 2,000 watts RMS fairly easily in the right box. I currently have about 500 watts going to this sub in a 10ft^3 box tuned at around 30 Hz. It's pretty loud. I got pulled over a few days ago for having my music too loud and the officer said "Dude, you were shaking my car, what do you have back there?" Got off without a ticket . I wanted to step it up a notch so I just ordered a Hifonics Brutus BRZ1700.1D. Which does 1700 RMS @ 1 ohm. I designed a box with a net volume of 7.19ft^3 tuned to exactly 34 Hz. Sub up, port back. (My old box was sub back, port back.) For the record, this is going in a 2006 Expedition.…

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…

I'm considering building a down fire for 2 D-CON 10's. Will be subs down,port back, box against back seat. Going in a Land Rover. I only cosider this because I do use the cargo area often and want keep the subs out of harms way. My question is how much room do I need between the floor and the woofers???? And should I just elevate the box by the end plates or do a 3sided lift leaving only the rear open???? Or is it a bad idea all together???? Is a daily thumper setup.......just want to keep my investment safe.