SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Metered with SPL-LAB same song and I got a reading of 160.1 @36 hz in the port and 146 @48 hz in the cabin. Does this sound right for the difference in frequency readings? Or is the deeper bass getting trapped in the trunk? Let me know what you guys think, thanks.

Probably a horse that's been beaten to death, but I've still got a couple questions. First off I guess the equipment in use would be a good place to start. Two Skar VVX V2 12s and a Synergy Audio WFO 15.1 amp wired to 1 ohm in the trunk of a cavalier. Listen to decaf, rock, and country so musicality is a factor. Only have one VVX in the car right now, so building a new box and deciding to forward fire and seal off versus rear fire is kinda where I'm at right now. I've never heard a sealed off box so don't have anything to reference to also. My gut feeling is sound quality would be better, especially on rock, it would meter well if sealed off properly, but would lose some …

I'm well aware of the complexity (or so it might seem for some) involved in creating a ported enclosure built to specs. I'm also aware of situations where different subs have been dropped right in to a ported box previously housing another sub and working well. With that being the case I was wondering how bad a prefab box like this one I stumbled across on ebay could possibly be. I'm absolutely prepaired to pay for a properly made custom box but was just curious a) if anyones had any experience and b) if this is just a COMPLETELY bad idea. Heres the link to a prefab 4 cu ft ported box tuned to 32 hz (almost exactly what I'd be getting custom made): 15" CUSTOM-PORTED MDF S…

Every one says that the re-calculator is off so can someone here help me design a box for a 12 BTL Here are my max demensions 15h x 28w x 18d......I would like the box as close to 2.5 after all displacements as I can tuned to 32hz (sub disp is .18) Thanks to anyone who can help.

I'm looking into getting a new 10" sub, I have had a fiaudio btl and after that experience everything in my truck is loose. I am looking for the best bang for my buck in a sound quality sub, I have considered a fi Q, I have heard good things about sundown audio. Any suggestions?

I started to build a new enclosure today. Gross interior is 12.5 X 53.5 X 7.5 bottom and 3.5 top, so 2.5 cubic feet gross. I am recessing the amp and the panel is 22.5 X 13.5 X .75 sunk 1.5 into the enclosure. There are (4) 1 X 2 X 55 and (4) 1 X 2 X 12.5 to account for and the displacement of the sub (RL-P) I think is .18. I want to tune this thing as low as possible (28-32 Hz) so dual 3" ports probably. How long do I make them?

never heard or owned a 4th order, but id like to spend weekend building one for my sundown x10. Can anyone help me out with this? maybe help me with some designs or advice. i have it in a 1.6 cube slot ported box tuned at 34hz. sealed off from trunk firing into cabin. for my tastes it is not tuned low enough, i was going to snatch everything out and go with a 2 cube box at 30hz. but ive been reading about 4th orders and im really interested in them now. would a 4th be ok for a daily with this sub? goes in dodge charger so i have plenty of trunk space, and can provide max deminisons if needed. i also have the sub specs if it helps. ive read to go with the 2:1 ratio with …

i did a 149.3db this weekend got 1st place my 4-15" box was still wet ! the FG Resin had not dryed and i had no time to brace the boxx i beat a guy that had 16 > 12" subs he had this he got a 148.9db & 2nd place

I started to notice my sub was sounding a little weird today, so i check my box to make sure everything was ok, but it wasnt! i must have a leak in my trunk seal, because my box was soaked with water. booo. but anyways, i will be building a new box after i fix the leaks, and i need some advice on a different box setup. MY box was about 5 cubes after sub and brace displacement, tuned to 27hz. (sub/port back). I wasnt really impressed with the output at lower frequencies, and the overall output from the setup. (ss rl-p 18, aq2200d) Can anyone suggest a different design that can maximize the overall output? It's in a 1990 lincoln towncar. Thanks!

I'm designing a box for a 10" sub to go behind the seat of my 1988 toyota pickup extended cab. I have an air compressor behind the drivers seat and I don't want to lose access to my jack and tools behind the passenger seat. The floor is uneven so it takes up a lot of volume. Here are pics of the area i have to work with. And here is a basic design i made on sketchup It is 1.66 cu ft before sub displacement and port. I'm looking at an fi ssd sub and a 1000w rms amp, but I'm open to other suggestions. The sub will be facing the front. I have a formula for tuning a port and I'll probably do a slot style port but I'm not sure where in the box to put the port or how much …

I think i wanna run a buss bar only across the ground terminals of 3 batts in the rear of my vehicle. I can't safely run one for both power and ground if you are wondering. Anyway, the reason why i would want to run one for ground is so i can just run all 3 of my amps ground out to the batt's ground buss bar. This way i can run multi runs of ground wires off of the buss bar, let's say 2 runs of 1/0 off the left and 2 runs of 1/0 off the right. Where exactly do i go to get one and how do i know if it's thick enough... if it'll fit on my batts, etc... they are for kinetiks so i know i can take the posts out of the batt to bolt it back down. I found a site that was selling a…

ok so between my 2 15's im going to have about 400 square inches of port area, and i need to know if figuring out tuning frequency is the same as like a round or slot port. or if 400 is too much lemme know. i have figured 355 per sub so 2/3rds of that is about 220 per sub. but the box is going to be aboue 3.5-3.8 cubes per sub and i would like it to be tuned to around 35 hz. but i have no idea how long i need to make the port or anything like that. so any tips or tricks are well appreciated.

so ive been looking around for ideas how to get mach5 mli 6.5s and tweets in my doors, but the mounting depth is kicking my a$$. the magnet will hit the window when its rolled down if i put it in the stock location. im wanting to do minimal modification to my doors to keep it as stock as possible*. i saw this and figured it would be perfect for me, if it wont hurt the speaker at all. i cant think of any reason it would, but im just making sure. should i seal behind it with something, or just use some deadening on the door itself? any input would be nice, thanks! hope this works, and if it does work i hope it comes out cleaner than that one

I'm looking into buying a Soundstream xxx18 and i have a few questions. First of all, here are the specs from the website. SPL Tuned Enclosure XXX-18 Min. Vented (ft.3) 4.00 Port (dia. x length) (4) 4x15 Fb (Hz) 49.91 F3 (Hz) 43.54 Opt. Vented (ft.3) 6.00 Port (dia. x length) (3) 6x13.5 Fb (Hz) 50.00 F3 (Hz) 42.71 Max. Vented (ft.3) 8.00 Port (dia. x length) (4) 6x12 Fb (Hz) 49.84 F3 (Hz) 42.24 Low Tuned Enclosure XXX-18 Min. Vented (ft.3) 4.00 Port (dia. x length) (3)4x18 Fb (Hz) 39.97 F3 (Hz) 36.81 Opt. Vented (ft.3) 6.00 Port (dia. x length) (2)6x22 Fb (Hz) 35.00 F3 (Hz) 32.18 Max. Vented (ft.3) 8.00 Port (dia. x length) (2)6…

I was wondering if you could have to ports on a enclosure and have each of them tuned differently, for example, one would be tuned to 30hz and the other to 35hz, would this enhance the sound or ruin it? I'm just curious.

Just made a new box for my 21" dp (the amp I will be running is a sundown 3500, I have (2) 1750 strapped right now about 3000 watts) in a 2000 Ford Taurus. (8.3 cu ft/32hertz) The sub is facing up, with a top on it to direct wave more in the car and stop trunk rattle. The port is firing in the car. (I guess its sort of a 4th order/ported box combo) During the build I wanted to make sure since the port would be firing in the car and the sub facing up with a top on it, to completely seal the front wave from the rear trunk. After the installation, it was loud but noticeably louder with the trunk open. Ok I must have missed sealing something..... I noticed I missed a few spot…

Im designing my wall for two 18 zcons. Going in an 87 dodge colt lol will have them wired to .7 on an audioque 3500.1. upgrading to a 5k or 7k in near future so keep that in mind. so far i figure I will have 14 ft3 for my subs after all displacements. so 7 cubes each My port will be 197 sq in tuned to 34. will be 5.5" x 35 3/4" roughly 14 sq in per foot. Am i building the box too big? since i plan on upgrading to bigger power should i go smaller? also give opinions on port size and tuning. or do i stop asking questions and just get it done and find out lol

Well, i think its time for a custom box. The current box was made for 2 12" w7's. my speakers are 10cvx122 kickers. specs are min port, 1.75+port and max 2.25+port with the port being 63" sq x 20" long. figure that out. 87.32 spl, 3.74 Revc, .0507 Sd M, 18.62 BL TM, 57.98 Vas liters, 28.44 Fs Hz, 197.28 Mms Grams, 10.209 Qms, .38 Qes, .3665 Qts, 15.4mm XMax. whatever all that means, lol. The max dimensions in the truck are ______14____ and about 4' wide maxx. / l / l 1-1.5' …

I have a sundown sae 1200d, which can handle 1500 at 1ohm..... I also have a 12 inch fi bl fully loaded. Would i have to get an extra battery or do the big 3. Will i be fine if i just do the big 3 upgrade? I have a zero gauge amp kit.

In this video I show you how to cut a perfect circle for your car audio install: What you need: Router (Preferably a plunge, but I show you can use a normal one) Jasper Circle Jig Drill 3/16 Drill Bit Wood to cut a circle into The Jasper circle jig in the video is the Model 200. Search Google for "Jasper Circle Jig Model 200" to find it. Mark

Hello, I was wondering whether it was possible to use two different port length on a same box: For example I need 31.5 inch of port length total for 2 x 3" round ports. Can I make one 14" and the other 17.5"??? It's just that it is quite difficult for me to fit those two ports inside the box, outside would be possible but aestethically wouldn't be good. Thanks guyz, Kelvin

Hey everyone. I am not sure what the policies are with box designs are here so i thought i would ask. If I asked for a design on the forum and someone does give me one do i pay them or what?? this is just a picture of the box. Like the dimensions of the pieces of wood. I could make the box but i have no clue on how to design a port or tune a box. If this was not clear or difficult to understand than let me know or just delete it , hha Thanks, Matt Cusack

As I begin my adventure in the SQ lanes, I have been doing a lot of research and studying. My general synopsis is, for SPL, in a vehicle, we want the most reflective material possible, such a concrete, or marble, so that there is no loss in energy. Obviously this is not practical, but in this example, it will work. Ok, and for SQ, we want the total opposite, we want complete absorption so that none of the higher frequencies reflect, which can cause interference, overlap, and many other issues. From what I've seen, things such as egg carts, foam, or MLV would be the fix. So what I am asking, what would be the best and most particle material to use in the vehicle for sou…

this is the box i decided to make for my 2 sa12's am i ready to cut it out or is there anything else i need to do? and does the cut list take the port into account? or is that a separate cut?

i would like to congradulate chris and rick for going to finals. and placing 10th in the world for ss1-2. it's good to see someone from up here to actually make it. now lets see what they are going to do next year. saggs