SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I've recently wanted to start making a horn style box, I've build one on accident before, but didnt know it was a horn box. Now im just needing some advice or basic tips on building and tuning of them.

Hey All , so I've got an Termlab , RTA software also included , but there's no mircohpone when I ordered the RTA software it wasnt clear to me I needed te mirophone so I'm missing a piece , I can measure but Termlab selects the laptops own microphone this is FAR from ideal ! so I could order the termlab mic , but I was wondering if there are any preferably cheaper and "as good as" alternatives would Alpines mic work for instance ?

hey im about to put 4 15 in a acura integra and need help building a wall

Hi guys Trying to get started on enclosure this morning for a Jeep Cherokee. Want to be able to see out of the back window. Listens to Metal/Rock. Tuning ~ 35-37hz okay Amp ~ Rockford Fosgate 40001 I now have these max internal dimensions to work with before speaker and bracing displacement. 40" W 23" H 24" D Thanks for any help Shizzzon I've sent you a new PM Goal is doing what it takes to get max air space so a ported enclosure is possible. Subs up port back. Box will also be double baffled. Can anyone double check my work and see what kind of port you come up with. Probably one rear chamber and one big port slotted and vented. Thanks in advance, Joe

Can someone help with ideas for a new enclosure? Wanting to figure out the port velocity and everything . Model everything right for this one. . Trying to get a new computer so I can do everything my self and learn everything but in the mean time need some help.

I want to make some MDF speaker rings that look something like this: But I want the 6.5 and tweeter to fit flush with the mount. Should I just use two pieces of 1/2, and make the inside ring the mounting diameter, and the top piece the outside diameter of the speakers, then glue them together? I may just have to do some experimenting. I'm going to try and mount them in the door in place of the stock 5x7s. I've been thinking of fiberglassing them into the doors, and I probably will in the future, but I just need something temporary right now since the XXX 6.5s will be here tomorrow, along with my BTL. All I'm waiting on to build my sub box is two 3/4"x9"x18" pieces of ple…

I bought a x12 and have made the reccomended ported box for it. I def sounds amazing when the windows are down in my truck it gets really low. But its not really as loud as i want and most of my music just dosnt go that low.. The other thing is i have a pair of harrison soundlab external subsonic filters... And a pair of right angle adapters from radioshack.. Could these be lowering the signal to the amp and decreasing my out put? Any help would be great. Iv heard you can fill the box a little to raise the tuning frequency.. Idk the sf are at 30hzbtw

How can one calculate the box rise and how does the shape of the box, etc. affect box rise? I am interested because I want to wire my subs down to .5 ohms, and I hear that it probably wont be an issue because of "box rise."

I apologize for asking a question that has been asked plenty of times before, but I couldn't quite find the answer I was looking for. I have an OBS Tahoe with 2 18s, subs up ports back (4 aero ports along the bottom). I need to secure the box to the floor, as it's shaking around pretty badly. My question is, is there an optimal distance to have between the end of the port and the trunk lid? I've read where people just say to put it at different distances and just try it out, but this is no help to me because A. I don't have a termlab and B. the box is moving so rapidly that it pushes itself away in a few seconds anyway. I'd rather not drill holes through the floor until I…

So I have heard to get optimum spl out of my box and best proforance out of my sub I would have to find the resonant frequency of my car. So I fired up the SSA forum seachers and i didn't come across so I imediatly fired up the google machine and did some seaching and here is my findings: I can use math by: Now you measure the distance from the cone to the meter(the whole path it takes). remember the soundwave comes out of the front of the cone at 90 degress(straight) and out the back at 180. once you get the distance from the cone to the meter placement in inches, you divide that into 13,560. you will probobly get a high number, which is suspected. Since its 90 degrees, …

Can anyone give me a fairly straight forward design for a bandpass box for two 5 1/4" woofers? I like the one i have, but it is uber ghetto (Current Box) I would like to have it peak around 28-30hz for chopped and screwed music, but maintain some punchiness on higher notes. Box size isnt really an issue, the one i have currently is around 9in tall, 4ft long, and 3ft wide. I like the style of mine, the way it is laid out, chamber, port etc so anything similar would be perfect (i might use a plexi top; If i do go with the plexi, i'm spraying the insides flat black). I will build it myself, out of 3/4" mdf and some bracing. Only requirements are is that it must be at most 12…

Well i'm talkin to a member on *** about buyin his 18" dc level 5 but first i got to make sure i can fit it decently in my trunk (wall is not an option and im not taking out the back seats). my trunk is 16-17" high depending on location and im looking to run a box this size (optimum size without going into a different shape from square/rectangle): 32" wide, 16" tall, 30" deep. should be ~ 7.795 cu. ft before and displacement. im lookin to have the box tuned to 31-33hz as i listen to mostly rap and techno. the sub specs according to DC site are: Mounting Depth = 10.5Mounting Hole Diameter = 16.75"Motor Width = 9.84"Weight = 80.5lbsVC Diameter = 3" Flat 8 layerSd = 1159…

So I've modeled my Crystal cmpx2 12" and it is completely flat from 30Hz + in a 2.1 cubic foot box tuned to 22.8 Hz. That's perfect but I'm having a hell of a time putting it together. I have my max dimensions but I'm stuck. It's a slanted box in the back. Can someone put something together so that I can get this built asap? Height can definitely go down, and width can definitely be made smaller, but I'd rather it be wide over tall just to look symmetrical. I dunno why but I'm insanely anal about symmetry. 40"w x 18" tall x (9 1/4" d1 /// 14" d2)

We will be partaking in a new format this year. We have decided, after heavy heart, to drop the dB Drag format and proceed to the IASCA IdbL format. We still plan on hosting our normal 6 shows and possibly a 2x event. We are also thinking of hosting a couple night shows so that the people who have spent the money on neon will have a chance to show that off. Also we are perspectively hosting all events this year in conjunction with "Compact Evolution" which is the brainchild of Garrett Sweet. This would allow our shows to not only become stereo competition events, but car show events also. Of course, all shows will be held at The Colonial Village Fun Park again. He ha…

I'm working on a home theater sub. It'll be an aa avalanche 18 in an 21 cu ft llt tuned to 15 hz. I'm trying to figure out how to cut the complicated bracing in this box design. So I was thinking if I got someone to CNC the bracing I can cut the rest of the boards and will have a much easier build. Any suggestions are appreciated. Here is a link. And some pics of the design. I have the google sketchup file, and was wondering if it would be able to make templates of each piece and print them on a plotter. Then I'd cut them to size with a table saw and cut them out with a jig saw. Link to build post

Ok, so I have a 3.3 total cuft box as a center console and i cannot reach over to the other side of the truck to roll down the window/unlock the door. (no power windows/locks sucks) I hear if you add poly fill to an enclosure, the enclosure behaves as if it is larger.. So I was thinking build a smaller box, but add polyfill to make it seem larger. So in the end, I will not have sacrifice output with a smaller box. If this is possible, about how much air space could polyfill potentially account for?

i kno this is a stupid question but whats the difference in 1/2" mdf and 3/4" mdf?is there a big difference in sound?

Just like the title says, what is the best way to splice a wire? Solder? If so what kind? How about some sort of crimp thingamabob?

Wondering what numbers you guys are hitting with your XCON trunk cars?

Yup, I think it's worthy of a new thread. Tomorrow I have to lug this PC out into the hot muggy humidity again, cuz as if it wasn't enough that the guy made me realize I could/should get so much more out of my tweeters with his Memphis 5.25 coaxials shredding my drums, but he went to bragging that his Anarchys and/or SA pro 8's could prolly do well in the 129dB class. So for the fun of it I went out and dropped the PXA-H701's from 50Hz to 25Hz, still 30dB/oct, left the Kicker at 50Hz 12dB/oct.... cuz I keep thinking about how the REW sweeps showed a cliff dive at 125Hz peaking again at 65Hz for another dive. I can turn them up to the same volume with no clipping, no excur…

Couple of questions for those that have done blow-throughs. This is the back seat in my Mitsubishi crew cab. If I were to mount my amp on the back of the seat (where the sub box is in the pic), would that restrict the air flow in to the cab when the seat is up? Also, in regards to the tuning theory of building the sealed section, measuring peak and tuning the ported section accordingly - does that work with a blow through? I would have thought if the cut out is smaller than the overall cone area, then it would act as a really high tuned port?

Looking for an expert builder to design a subwoofer box for me. Who's a good choice at a decent price?

and lower tuning.. plus the subs heat up the enclosure, bad for the amps too, so better cooling! Port is 24" long now for a 22Hz tuning, I get bad cancellation I think, so I will do a 30" port which will reult in 20Hz

so in torres i put a 23.5" length into the calcs. this gives me a 35.07hz tune with a port dimension of 23.5X4.75" and 7.07 cubic. the physical port length is 17.25 according to torres. i need to verify what my port actually is and i feel a bit confused by the measuring. if i measure the port down teh center wich is how i understand the correct measurement to me then i get 20 and 3/8" in length, then i measure horizontally to the inside of the MDF sheet wich is 3 and 1/8". so that makes the port 23.5" long down the center. if i measure on the face of the wood itself i get 18.75" long and accounting for 3/4" thickness of the port itself. on top of that it makes it 2.375…