SPL & SQ / Fabrication

So I decided to pick up another Sa10 so I can wire down to one ohm. Now I just need to figure out how to fit these in my Infiniti I30. I've always done sub back, port back but can't with the four tens. I'm thinking about doing port and subs up, I've also thought about subs up port through the armrest. I'm capable of designing and building the box, just wanted to know if anyone had any advice about the layout. Thanks -Rick

Alright, so here it is. I have been looking around and i can't find any topic that talk about building a L port or how to build an L port. I am going to have to do this with my box (unfortunatly) and i would like to see how some of them were done. I have looked all over "SPL & SQ / Fabrication" and "Build Logs" but i can't seem to find it. I found one persons video of him doing it but only the last cut. It would be awesome if i could get some real experience about the "L" port and any tips/tricks. Hopefully this topic will help more people out then just me! I look forward to seeing what you guys have to say!

So, unfortunately i don't think i will be able to get the hight i need for 15s in a regular blow through. i have been looking in doing some sort of bandpass blow through with the chamber firing into the truck from the bed. i have read other posts and things but there seem to be too many different opinions and not facts. Any information for me would be greatly appreciated. I have seemed to be more focused of a 6th order. i like the way its ported inside a port but i do NOT have much knowledge on this so i'm looking forward to learning more about it. Would a bandpass be my best option, if so which one and why? i was looking to do something like this.

Hey guys just looking for a little input here I have been doing some measuring and test fitting cardboard templates to see what I can fit behind my seats without having to loss a lot of leg room. I came up with this set up. Dimensions 13”H x 20”W x 5”depth1 x 8.5”depth2, with 3/4 MDF it gives me .646 ft3. The Sundown SA-10 specs say it will do fine in a sealed enclose at .5 ft3 so after displacement I should be right on track with .546 ft3. My only real concern here is the mounting depth at 6” I should be in the clear right?

So after using the Torres' box calculator I have come up with these panel sizes Sub diameter: 14.125” Top: 33 x 16 Bottom: 33 x 16 Sides: 15 x 14.5 Front: 33 x 15 (double baffle) = .21cubes disp Back: 33 x 15 ________________ According to the calculator I am left with 3.55 cubes for a sealed enclosure... Does that sound right? The lumberyard near me said they could make the cuts for me.... Any quick and calculated responses are much needed... Thanks -Danny

The magic numbers for the DCON 10 seems to be 1.25 cu ft, tuned to 32hz. Does the vehicle really have any significant play on that? I don't compete or anything. I just hear this thing really performs with little power. I've got all the components of my budget system except the sub and box. For some reason it's the hardest thing for me to decide on. I really wanted to get away with a prefab box, but they are all tuned around 38hz. What's the point of buying a decent sub if you're not going to maximize it's potential? Anyway, As far as box building goes are there any walkthroughs or step by step type guides? I can figure out all the dimensions and cuts but the assem…

I've been playing with a port calculator and I find that 30 1/8"x3/4"(which just happens to be my wall thickness) holes will tune the box to a nice 30.5Hz. Now, is there any reason for NOT doing this??? Thought I might arrange them in the shape of an SSA logo for effect.

this is going to be my layout for a new box ports gonna be up top they will be coming through the decklid and the subs are gonna be firing towards the trunklid.what do yall think of this setup?

Okay guys, I need your help on this one. Now ive built a few boxes and understand the basic concepts/calcs of everything but have never built a wall before. My brother asked me yesterday if I would build him one yesterday and thats why im posting this today. Can anyone give me some tips and explain the order at which i should start it? **Now Im not asking you to explain every single thing (tuning or port size or anything like that which would depend on the subs, which he hasnt decided on yet) Thanks for any input and as always its appreciated.

should i go to home depot, who has cheap but good stuff? and what kind of calk screws ETC.

Hello all! I am looking to reconfigure my trunk set-up in my Mazda 3 and am looking for some feedback on my idea to see if this would give me my desired result. Currently, I have the subwoofer firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up to the rear deck ( I use a flared round port). The problem is that the rear deck is completely solid and this causes quite a bit of rattling, even after deadening the whole trunk. What I am considering doing is rebuilding the box to have the sub firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up on the back of the box. In order to do this, I would need to put an elbow on the PVC port because the box will…

I have always been a sealed box guy,so I have NO idea how to tune a box. That being said,how much port do I need in a 1.25ft box with DCON 10????? Will be for daily use playing mostly rock/metal. I was thinking 40-45hz maybe? Please correct me if I'm thinking wrong.

So I want to build a false floor in the trunk of my Miata, to cover the amps that are sitting in the recessed well of the trunk. Never having done this before, and not too skilled at woodworking, how do I make a template design that conforms to the outlines of the trunk? I know they say to trace it out on cardboard, but how do you get the cardboard pressed up into all the nooks and corners of the trunk so the tracing is accurate, to trace out a line that shows the exact curve or square of the trunk floor? So the final wood floor basically press fits into the corners and walls of the trunk? My thought is to have a floor that covers the entire trunk, with the section cove…

I have a crown xls 1000, puts out 1100 watts bridged, had two 15s in room, sold them. Just ordered a 12" Icon. I would like to build a ported Enclosure. Can anyone help?

Im new to building enclosures and would like to know the correct type/brand of screws and glue that i should be using. Thanks for the help!

I knew this was how it was going down, so I went with it. I hoped to get solid replies on the input to my Alpine IVA-W505 HU. I do not want to run RCAs because they tend to be nasty dirty from PC, but I just might have to. Also IDK if I kept the AUX IN RCA connector for the HU. So I tried the 3.5mm LINE OUT on the PC to the 3.5mm in jack on the IVA thats usually used in conjunction with the USB... both go to one end of the iPOD Y-cord, and the other end is the jack to plug into the POD. I get no audio from the HU from the PC in USB, AUX, or AUX + IN. The rig: I dismantled the rig I built for the HT and rebuilt it for the VAN. RS meter and Audyssey mic. VIDEO REW …

Hey everyone. I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how the freq of a box affects the sound, like what a low freq is good for and how it sounds along with a higher freq? Also, when the inside corners/edges of the box are angled, will that give you better spl? And I was thinking of sanding the edges on the outside of the box to a curve to make them round instead of a straight edge...is that a bad idea? Thanks in advance, Jack3d **Any help is always appreciated

I just bought a 15" fi btl dual 2 ohm off of craigslist. The box that came with it is obviously way too small and tuned to high. I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what size of box and all that stuff I need to get what I want out of it. The current box is 19"x18x17" that's about 3 cubes and inside that enclosure is half port and the speaker. Way too small. It lacks lower end very much. Im running it off of a autotek ss1500 at 1 ohm. I want it to be audibly loud and hit as hard as possible. I have built many boxes but just want to really make sure this one comes out really well. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hello all, am quite new to this forum and have been around caraudio for a little while but still have a lot to learn especially as I haven't been as passionate as most seem to be here Anyway I have this old car in good shape that I am using to drive to work at the coal mine and have put a stereo into it although most needs to be reinstalled as it is just temporary. I have a 15" RL-p Soundsplinter sub on an SAZ 1500D amp and an alpine HU and some Hertz 165 high power components running on a 400W MA Audio amp I had laying around. The Sub is in a ported enclosure I built a while back for the 08 Charger I had but never put the sub into...... problem is the enclosure is too …

ok lets try this again because the designer still wanted to get in on this convo. I may not be the all knowing when it comes to Car Audio but i am a man with 2 degrees. I don't understand that how after you said all those lovely things about the designer and builder of the 4th order in question. How can you still say it sounds bad after not hearing it. I didn't lock the thread. Wouldn't have posted in it again if it was locked. As for my statement, I'll repeat it and stand by it. It is not an opinion that in particular that 4th order BP was not the best use of space, it is not an opinion that the output of that box does not have a smooth response in the frequency doma…

Well I've been messin around with WinISD for the past hour, converting units to metric and back again, etc. All I can say is, I'm completely lost. In case you haven't read any of my other posts, here's my equipment: (1) 18" Fi BTL N2 (1) AQ2200D (1) XS Power D1200 Those are the only things I have purchased so far. Right now I'm trying to figure out what I'm gonna do about the box. I think I'm gonna go with a slot ported box, tuned in the upper 30s/lower 40s. Only problem is, the process of designing a box that won't sound like shit is a tough task that is starting to become overwhelming. First question: How do you know what size box to put into a calculator such as this o…

so today i noticed my port feels like 80grit sand paper becouse i forgot to glass it will fiberglassing this thing give me gains??? its gata sound better right?

Finally found a TL at a show today! Got to run a sweep finally as well. I ended up doing a 154.9 at 39z in the scorching sun after demoing my car all day! I am happy with those results with 4k on my subs ..... Skar Audio is no joke

The past few weeks I have been going to a few comps here and there and noticing a lot of talk about what to tune your box to to get the highest SPL. Just looking to get opinions on here since there are a lot of competitors. Me personally, Im running 2 DC level 5 15's box tuned to 40hz @ 7.7 cubes doing 149.4 @ 53 hz........Not sure if i could tune it down to get better results or to tune it higher. Anyone got any suggestions?

I have in the past been using Loctite Heavy Duty 2part epoxy for steel to wood and steel to steel... I do not like it... It sometimes adheres good enough to steel to steel but steel to wood.. it sucks.. I have broken the bonds so many times after days of let cure... I need something GREAT!.. I had been pointed to contact cement... Is this a viable option? I have recently looked at a product claiming to be the BEST bonding agent in the world.. practically. It's called Mitrebond. It claims to glue everything to everything. They said it's actually a CA glue that has been widened for many things. Pot time is 15seconds, hehe and comes with activator. IT's $$$ for how mu…