SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I have a crown xls 1000, puts out 1100 watts bridged, had two 15s in room, sold them. Just ordered a 12" Icon. I would like to build a ported Enclosure. Can anyone help?

So, unfortunately i don't think i will be able to get the hight i need for 15s in a regular blow through. i have been looking in doing some sort of bandpass blow through with the chamber firing into the truck from the bed. i have read other posts and things but there seem to be too many different opinions and not facts. Any information for me would be greatly appreciated. I have seemed to be more focused of a 6th order. i like the way its ported inside a port but i do NOT have much knowledge on this so i'm looking forward to learning more about it. Would a bandpass be my best option, if so which one and why? i was looking to do something like this.

I have always been a sealed box guy,so I have NO idea how to tune a box. That being said,how much port do I need in a 1.25ft box with DCON 10????? Will be for daily use playing mostly rock/metal. I was thinking 40-45hz maybe? Please correct me if I'm thinking wrong.

Hello all, am quite new to this forum and have been around caraudio for a little while but still have a lot to learn especially as I haven't been as passionate as most seem to be here Anyway I have this old car in good shape that I am using to drive to work at the coal mine and have put a stereo into it although most needs to be reinstalled as it is just temporary. I have a 15" RL-p Soundsplinter sub on an SAZ 1500D amp and an alpine HU and some Hertz 165 high power components running on a 400W MA Audio amp I had laying around. The Sub is in a ported enclosure I built a while back for the 08 Charger I had but never put the sub into...... problem is the enclosure is too …

So I want to build a false floor in the trunk of my Miata, to cover the amps that are sitting in the recessed well of the trunk. Never having done this before, and not too skilled at woodworking, how do I make a template design that conforms to the outlines of the trunk? I know they say to trace it out on cardboard, but how do you get the cardboard pressed up into all the nooks and corners of the trunk so the tracing is accurate, to trace out a line that shows the exact curve or square of the trunk floor? So the final wood floor basically press fits into the corners and walls of the trunk? My thought is to have a floor that covers the entire trunk, with the section cove…

I want to do a install of 4 15s in trunk of grand prix. I will be building inside trunk. I just need help, and suggestions on designs. Let me know guys. 37" wide and with 16" tall, and roughly 50" long(from trunk opening to rear seats.

I just bought a 15" fi btl dual 2 ohm off of craigslist. The box that came with it is obviously way too small and tuned to high. I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what size of box and all that stuff I need to get what I want out of it. The current box is 19"x18x17" that's about 3 cubes and inside that enclosure is half port and the speaker. Way too small. It lacks lower end very much. Im running it off of a autotek ss1500 at 1 ohm. I want it to be audibly loud and hit as hard as possible. I have built many boxes but just want to really make sure this one comes out really well. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hey everyone. I was wondering if anyone could explain to me how the freq of a box affects the sound, like what a low freq is good for and how it sounds along with a higher freq? Also, when the inside corners/edges of the box are angled, will that give you better spl? And I was thinking of sanding the edges on the outside of the box to a curve to make them round instead of a straight edge...is that a bad idea? Thanks in advance, Jack3d **Any help is always appreciated

so today i noticed my port feels like 80grit sand paper becouse i forgot to glass it will fiberglassing this thing give me gains??? its gata sound better right?

Well I've been messin around with WinISD for the past hour, converting units to metric and back again, etc. All I can say is, I'm completely lost. In case you haven't read any of my other posts, here's my equipment: (1) 18" Fi BTL N2 (1) AQ2200D (1) XS Power D1200 Those are the only things I have purchased so far. Right now I'm trying to figure out what I'm gonna do about the box. I think I'm gonna go with a slot ported box, tuned in the upper 30s/lower 40s. Only problem is, the process of designing a box that won't sound like shit is a tough task that is starting to become overwhelming. First question: How do you know what size box to put into a calculator such as this o…

Anyone done a fiberglass build in a mazda 6 sedan? I have this idea of putting my 15" ssd in the center, behind the seats, with two 6" aeroports (one on each side of the sub). This would be firing into the cabin. I have my rear seats down 90% of the time, so I would imagine it would sound great. Anyone done it, or know how? I am looking for someone to take on this project for me, as I have never done it, and wouldnt quite say I have the time to do it either.. Anywho, im in Keller Tx and if anyone is interested I am willing to pay. Im looking to stay in the 3.5-4 cu ft. range, tuned at 33-35 hz. Im rocking a 08 mazda 6 sedan (not the cool hatch model). If you need anymore…

ok lets try this again because the designer still wanted to get in on this convo. I may not be the all knowing when it comes to Car Audio but i am a man with 2 degrees. I don't understand that how after you said all those lovely things about the designer and builder of the 4th order in question. How can you still say it sounds bad after not hearing it. I didn't lock the thread. Wouldn't have posted in it again if it was locked. As for my statement, I'll repeat it and stand by it. It is not an opinion that in particular that 4th order BP was not the best use of space, it is not an opinion that the output of that box does not have a smooth response in the frequency doma…

The past few weeks I have been going to a few comps here and there and noticing a lot of talk about what to tune your box to to get the highest SPL. Just looking to get opinions on here since there are a lot of competitors. Me personally, Im running 2 DC level 5 15's box tuned to 40hz @ 7.7 cubes doing 149.4 @ 53 hz........Not sure if i could tune it down to get better results or to tune it higher. Anyone got any suggestions?

Hello all! I am looking to reconfigure my trunk set-up in my Mazda 3 and am looking for some feedback on my idea to see if this would give me my desired result. Currently, I have the subwoofer firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up to the rear deck ( I use a flared round port). The problem is that the rear deck is completely solid and this causes quite a bit of rattling, even after deadening the whole trunk. What I am considering doing is rebuilding the box to have the sub firing straight to the back of the car, with the port opened up on the back of the box. In order to do this, I would need to put an elbow on the PVC port because the box will…

Im new to building enclosures and would like to know the correct type/brand of screws and glue that i should be using. Thanks for the help!

Vechicle is BMW 7 series... The cabin is so well sealed, that not much bass has been entering the cabin of the vehicle. It's stuck in the trunk. I'm thinking about doing a new ported enclosure that would face the rear seats, and is completely sealed from the trunk. Hopefully, it will force more air through the armrest ski-pass...I'm trying this because I don't really want to slice up the rear deck. So the question is, should I leave a few inches between the box and the rear seats or build the port so that it extends into the ski-pass and seal that as well? The goal being maximum output, of course... Any help is greatly appreciated.

I'm gonna build a new box for two 12's and was thinkin about porting it through the rear deck with two 4" ports with the subs at an angle to the back.What do yall think about that?

I am currently building a new setup and I am torn on how to tune my box. I will be running 2 18" Fi BTL N2's, 2 Hifonics 2600.10's, and 4 XS D2400's. I am posting to get feedback on which setup would be best, going with a spl setup and tune my box around 32-35 Hz, or go with a wave setup and tune my box around 25-28 Hz.? Feedback and oppinions are needed thanks.

Has anyone done any TL testing with a vehicle before bracing and after bracing? Mainly looking for daily driver type results. I've added sound deadening to my vehicle (2002 volvo v40), in hopes of getting rid of rattles and other annoyances. I haven't applied any treatment to the roof yet. Once I have the subwoofers playing, I'll be able to tell if / how much it needs to be deadened & braced. I'm just toying with the idea of bracing the roof with 1/8" steel strips, bracing door sheet metal, and other flexing panels across the vehicle. So not doing any stripper poles, or bolting shut doors. Just curious if it would be worth it, if there would be an audible increase in …

This is what happens when you get wood cut at home depot. I got all my cuts at home depot and some are 1/16 to short. they wasnt using the regular saw. i was wondering can i use some sealer tape for the cracks?

This is what happens when you get wood cut at home depot. I got all my cuts at home depot and some are 1/16 to short. they wasnt using the regular saw. i was wondering can i use some sealer tape for the cracks?

I was doing a dry build of sub enclosure yesterday and I decided to see how the kreg jig would work on some scraps. I wasn't able to find a bit long enough and small enough to pre drill and the wood split. My question is can I use"L" brackets instead and how good would they work? Second question what sealer to use? I'm not going to be able to seal the top panel because I will have to put my subs in when I put the front baffles on and I will not be able to get to the top inside corners what should I do?

Hello all, I have discovered I am going to have to build a new enclosure for my subwoofer to fit in the current vehicle I drive to work. The car is an early 80's sedan with a large but shallow(height) trunk and I do not really care if I have much space left over. I am pretty good at building things and have no problems making a pretty elaborate box, so my question is: In the trunk of a car like this what is the best enclosure to build without walling off the backseat? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance, Mr_Jones

im building a box for a Pioneer TS-W1207D4: 1.65 cu ft 3"x5.5'' port displacement: 0.076 the box ive built is about 1.9ft^3 without any displacements. i'm assuming the 3"x5.5" is the port area and i just need to calculate the length? if so, how long do i need the port for ~35-38hz?

As per title lads, with my equipment coming soon I wanna go with the loudest design possible, will be using 2 AA Mayhems with 2 Hifonics 2607D's to power them, have a nice bit of room to play around with (say a max of 25-30cuftexternal) Will I go flat wall Port up top?? Flat wall port drivers wide?? Clam?? Small Tunnel?? I'm not really pushed about numbers as I want this to rattle people (will tune to maybe 30-32hz) All suggestions welcome guys