SPL & SQ / Fabrication

after a little debate.. well not too much I've decided this has to be asked on this forum not ROE, where most consider SQ to be 2 pair of loud Pa speakers with no tweets I'll be running a set of tc 3hp motors w/ fi top ends.. dare I say Sealed, over there If I mentioned sealed I'd be crucified But on to the front stage. I have a alpine 7949 deck, and a sony xm5046(mobile es) so plenty of power for a nice front stage. First time running active. I usually run passive comp sets, which I have liked, but want to try my hand at active and see the differecne. I was considering a set of seas excels, with a lpg tweeter. What would you suggest that would sound as good and …

here is a pic of my trunk: I have a 12'' DC lvl 4 sub. I drive a sedan. I like to listen to a lot of pop rock // pop punk // metal music, some have fast bass drums//guitars I think I'm going to go with some type of ported box, which should I go with? a slotted, vented, ported, or what? Can anyone help me design a box for my subs? I also don't know which way to port it, towards the trunk? I'd like to have the box toward the side of the trunk, so I can still fold down the back seat and access the trunk.

Ok guys, I was looking into a few stats on bench testing, and noticed that amps wired to ".5 ohms nominal" could see up to 1.5 ohms in reality. So, with that in mind, I read into box rise and all that good stuffs. I was just wondering, If I skip terminals on the box altogether and run wires through a small hole (that would be sealed up after of course) or out through a port would this help at all? Or would the longer length of wire just defeat the purpose? Thanks in advance, as always.

who's going, and JW why registration is free? Who's putting up trophie money? Keep me posted. Sounds interesting

Hey all.I just got a 2007 dodge caliber and im wanting to get a system in it.I have my max deminsions that I wuld like to use.They are 38W x 23H x 11D .My question is what would be the best route to go?Im wanting like 4 10's, specifically FI BL 10's.but not sure if I have enough rooms for them.So would I have enough room or would I need to go a different route? OH and I would have the subs and port facing the hatch.Thanks and let me know if this would work or if I need to go a different way.

i'm new to car audio, but would really like to learn to custom build and fabricate (amongst other things), so i was wondering where i could go to learn to do those things. i know there are tutorials, but i learn better with hands-on experience, so are there any places anyone could suggest. thanks for your suggestions

So I have searched a little and really haven't found out much info. I read somewhere that fiberglassing the inside of your enclosure makes it weak. why is this, is it because of the heat and chemicals released during drying and curing? Is it really necessary for a box that will only see a occasional romp on a lane? Please discuss.

Im designing a box for my new improved build and i jus want to verify that im doing it all correctly. The box will be for two 15 inch SSA EVIL series subs. But for right now i have two dc lvl 4 15's that will go into the box temporarily. So it will be designed mainly around the EVIL's. The car its going into is a 2007 Scion Tc. I measured out max dimensions and came up with a box that i think turned out very well. i wanted it tuned low, mid 30's and low 31's maybe. Heres what i came up with::: Pic from sketchup (Copied and pasted from MS word) Box Measurements Maximum limits for the SCION TC Width = 37 inch max (pushing) …

Going to be making my own port flares.. My dad works at a machine shop and has access to a lathe with will make things easier. He's gonna make me a mold so I can just fibreglass over it to make my flares. Now, I was hoping I could get some help with dimensions of the flare, it's going to be a 10" port, and I need to know what diameter to flare out to, and how deep to make the flare. Iv heard add 4" to the diameter but that could be total BS, but iv got no clue as far as how deep the flare should be.

hey im about to put 4 15 in a acura integra and need help building a wall

Ultimate Edge is sponsoring a dB Drag sanctioned 2x event on Saturday September 7th. Preregistration is $30 and registration that day is $40. This is the last chance that NNY'ers will have to get their certifieds up. Be there!! Registration starts at 10 am, and show starts at 11am. Any questions contact Chris McVay at the Ultimate Edge (315) 343-2995.

ok ok so i had a lil show today.... and i heard some stupid ass shit come out of peoples mouth... . and some shit that made me prove my point of running 15's IE "yeah fam thats why i like 12's you can hear them hoes from far away!. "yeah you cant make 10's loud " "i like 15's cause them hoes hit low you cant get that sound from a 10" " so you can make 12's loud like your 15's?? nah nah nah i dont belive that " but the good out of what i run.. "damn thats only 2 15s!!?? " " i thought it was 2 18s" i got two 15's but they dont hit like that " so anyway im thinking in the black town car i can do anything... and i was thinking 2 or 3 18's ... then i was think…

What up SSA. Thinking about ordering a single Gcon 12" and running it ported but just want to make sure my calculations are accurate before doing so. Volume (Net): 1.81^3 ft Dimensions: 13.5" (H) x 30" (W) x 12" (D) Tuning: 32.75Hz Number/Size Port: 1 x 4" Flared Port Length: 15.5" Port Area (per cube): 6.94"^2 Vent Mach: 0.11 Is there enough Port Area? Is this a good size/volume for a 12" Gcon? Also, I plan on placing the woofer and port on the same baffle, on opposite ends. This would require a 90 degree elbow bend for the port but there should be over 7" of space between the end of the port and the subwoofer so I don't think that will be a problem.

I recently opened up a tint shop and have had a lot of customers wanting audio, so I just picked up the Sundown line. I've been an installer for 14 yrs now, but all the shops I've worked at did cookie cutter systems with pre-fab boxes so I never really learned how to make a box and match it to the subs. I've built plenty of boxes, so the actual building is not what I'm looking for it's just getting the correct size and port length I need. I see a lot of threads recommending box calculators like torres ect. which I've downloaded, but I don't see how you're converting the sub specs to box design. I found the AJ vented designer program which does this (I'm looking to built m…

I'm just trying to design a new box for a 93 civic hatch. Just wondering if anybody has any suggestions for me. There will be 3/4'' all-thread rod for bracing. The box is for 4 12'' pioneer premier ts-w3002spl. It will be in a wall config. subs on driver side port on passenger. all thoughts are welcome. This is what i got so far.. http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/3224/1061/33058030018_large.jpg

So I've modeled my Crystal cmpx2 12" and it is completely flat from 30Hz + in a 2.1 cubic foot box tuned to 22.8 Hz. That's perfect but I'm having a hell of a time putting it together. I have my max dimensions but I'm stuck. It's a slanted box in the back. Can someone put something together so that I can get this built asap? Height can definitely go down, and width can definitely be made smaller, but I'd rather it be wide over tall just to look symmetrical. I dunno why but I'm insanely anal about symmetry. 40"w x 18" tall x (9 1/4" d1 /// 14" d2)

Have a 12" GCON in a sealed box. It sounds great but I am wanting more and I know the sub will give it to me if I can put it in the right enclosure. I used the ICON enclosure design for the sealed box it is in now, would the ICON ported design work well for the GCON as well? It falls into the optimal range, 2.5f^3 tuned to 33hz. It is a 2 ohm sub with 500 watts powering it in the trunk of a '96 accord. I have about 32" x 20" x 18" to work with. Anyone have any experience or recommendations for a ported box design that will work well with the GCON?

I have been approached by a customer with 4 Kicker Warhorses and 4 Kicker Solo X 18s. He is having me build a 1990 Astro van to be all out SPL. i am looking for any help in the matter of tips, tricks, pointers, etc on how to do this install. Lexan windows are already in plans. Concrete floor will be a must (how do i do this? how thick? what kind of concrete? just the cabin or all the way back?). Lowering roof (how should i do this? what should i use?). Custom Dash (what do i use? how should i construct it? what shape?). Center Counsel (should I build one? just leave it open space? what should I build it with? how should design be?). should i cover the wall floor roof dash…

whats the smallest ported box, but most spl with 1100w. its going in the trunk of a 94 corolla so size is a issue. thanks jamie

Not really sure where to post this but in my 30 yrs experience I've never seen anything like this and thought I'd share. I bought my 16 yr old daughter a beat down Toyota Avalon for her first car. It's got a junker JVC head works but the sound was extremely anemic. I popped the trunk thinking a cheap set of 6x9's would be a quick fix but these cars never had rear deck speakers. Well shit, I'm pullin door panels. That's when I saw them. ABS ported enclosures? Harmon made? The factory speakers were trashed, foam surrounds completely gone but I was intrigued. I grabbed a set of 4"ers, went to install and found out they're 4 1/2" holes. Cant really open the fronts up …

I'm in the process of starting a new install in my '95 Probe. Purchasing a DD 3500 series 15 and RF 1000a2 from a friend. Initially I plan on running the box he was using in his Explorer which is around 5cf. with 3 4" aero ports, can't remember the length. I'd like to build a new box to better fit the Probe, and I'd like to see if I can't get a little more out of the setup in the process. In the Explorer this setup has metered at 147.?db and I'd like to see if I can't manage 150. Any suggestions on box design would be appreciated. I'd like to keep it tuned low ~30-32hz.

So, I need to find a small, color, wide angle camera to mount in the mustang. looking out the rear window. Prolly mounted to the headliner looking through the hatch glass.... maybe in the hatch keyhole. Inversly, I'd also need to find a cheap LCD monitor to glass into the dash. not so big. 4-7". I need some kind of rearview mirror... a wall will tend to prohibit that. any advice? Google has yielded me alot of $500+ rearview systems for RV's & delivery trucks that are quite big & bulky. Thanks -Nick

I need to know how many tubes I would need and what length and what diameter opening to reach like 30hz in 3 cubes... with at least 36-48 square inches of port. And I also need to know the displacement of these I can't seem to figure it out.

So i've read on numerous threads that the RE box calculator tunes a tad bit high. Personally, i'm a noob when it comes to making boxes so this RE calculator is just a great tool!! I use it mixed with Win Isd to make my box! i just really wish win isd had a slot port option So for people like me, and many other box designing noobs the RE calculator is awesome!! Its free, easy to use, you can see what changing port dimensions do to your tuning. So, does the Re calculator ALWAYS tune high? is it the same everytime? I'm curious because i'm desiging, or trying to, a box for my friend for his first gen 15" icon which i purchased for him. Also, on a side note, when designing…

Hey, I just built my first box. 2.18 cubic feet tuned to 34hz, for under the seat of a 2003 Silverado. The box sounds great, but looks horrible. So, my questions are. Do you use wood glue to hold the box together? Or just screws? Do you use screws or nails? What type of silicone do you use to seal the box? Help is greatly appreciated. And for those wondering; the box was built for an RE Audio SX 10", so far we've tested it with a Soundstream SPL 10" and it sounds great, the RE should be here in a few days.