SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I need to know how many tubes I would need and what length and what diameter opening to reach like 30hz in 3 cubes... with at least 36-48 square inches of port. And I also need to know the displacement of these I can't seem to figure it out.

So i've read on numerous threads that the RE box calculator tunes a tad bit high. Personally, i'm a noob when it comes to making boxes so this RE calculator is just a great tool!! I use it mixed with Win Isd to make my box! i just really wish win isd had a slot port option So for people like me, and many other box designing noobs the RE calculator is awesome!! Its free, easy to use, you can see what changing port dimensions do to your tuning. So, does the Re calculator ALWAYS tune high? is it the same everytime? I'm curious because i'm desiging, or trying to, a box for my friend for his first gen 15" icon which i purchased for him. Also, on a side note, when designing…

I'm just trying to design a new box for a 93 civic hatch. Just wondering if anybody has any suggestions for me. There will be 3/4'' all-thread rod for bracing. The box is for 4 12'' pioneer premier ts-w3002spl. It will be in a wall config. subs on driver side port on passenger. all thoughts are welcome. This is what i got so far.. http://memimage.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/3224/1061/33058030018_large.jpg

ok i have a 2002 dodge dakota extended cab, and i was thinking of putting 4 SA-8's in the back area after taking out the back seat. i will get the D4 coil configuration and run 2 off a dsc1000.1 and the other 2 off another dsc1000.1 (each sub will get 500watts) now i have no clue how to design a box, the only other ported box i made someone else designed for me and i built it. i dunno max dimensions of the box but if you tell me how many cubes it has to be i can figure out how to make that size box fit where it needs to, also for the "easy" factor id like to use aero ports instead of a slot port design, so what size and lengh aeros would i need? and where can i buy thos…

went to a db drag tonite and i took first place. super street 1-2. hit a 143.9 legal on the new TL

Well looks like I will end up with 17.87cu before bracing and sub displacement. I really want to end up with 17cu total after. This is for 2 18in FI Q's on 3k watts. Box dimensions will be Outside 35h x 54w x 27d.... All sides double 3/4 MDF except front baffle will be triple. (may use some Birch for weight reduction) Usable inside demensions are 32h x 41.5w x 23.25d = 17.87cu Port is 8 x 32 = 256in total Sub displacement = .24... but I will be triple baffled so what maybe .22 or less?? Total of six 2in hardwood dowels for bracing =.35 2in wide 45's in corners =.10 So this leaves me with 17cuft tuned at 30hz after all is said and done. I may glass the inside as well? what…

Just finished my new install, a 12" xcon in a 2.75ft^3 box tuned to 31hz. This is in the trunk of my 96 Accord. I listen with the seat down so the sub and port are firing into the cabin. All my boxes and setups have taught me that each setup is very different and showcase different songs better than others. The "show off" songs that sound awesome on the previous setup don't usually sound as good when you change things. I get that and accept that, but now I have a new issue. So after I got my xcon playing I was setting the gains and playing around with different songs and was not super impressed, it was loud but I knew it should be louder. so I popped the trunk to go bac…

I'm in the process of starting a new install in my '95 Probe. Purchasing a DD 3500 series 15 and RF 1000a2 from a friend. Initially I plan on running the box he was using in his Explorer which is around 5cf. with 3 4" aero ports, can't remember the length. I'd like to build a new box to better fit the Probe, and I'd like to see if I can't get a little more out of the setup in the process. In the Explorer this setup has metered at 147.?db and I'd like to see if I can't manage 150. Any suggestions on box design would be appreciated. I'd like to keep it tuned low ~30-32hz.

Tomarrow I will build a new box for my new Xcon 12. I have two designs to pick from, one will be 2 cubes at 30hz and other will be 2.4 cubes at 30hz depending how much room I want to give up. (or anywhere in between I suppose) When I first got the Xcon, I put it in the box my Death Row was in. About 2.1 cubes at 31 hz, with 25^2 inches of port. There was definately some chuffing going on. My new box I want more port area. Max height of port will be 12.5 inches (14inch max height for box). Will either do 2.5 or 2.75 inch wide, for 31.25^2 in or 34.38^2in. Will either of these help with the port chuff I experienced with my old box? I know the bigger the better usually…

im going to make a box for a fi bl 15 and punched the numbers in the re box calc. and the size and hz was way off what the picture says. i mite just be being paranoid but id like to know for sure b4 i go spending money on wood for a box that isnt what i want...u know. thnx in advance ~Bill

Hey, I just built my first box. 2.18 cubic feet tuned to 34hz, for under the seat of a 2003 Silverado. The box sounds great, but looks horrible. So, my questions are. Do you use wood glue to hold the box together? Or just screws? Do you use screws or nails? What type of silicone do you use to seal the box? Help is greatly appreciated. And for those wondering; the box was built for an RE Audio SX 10", so far we've tested it with a Soundstream SPL 10" and it sounds great, the RE should be here in a few days.

I would like to know how many or even if anyone uses a 4 inch aeroport for a 12 inch sub without any problems. Reason i ask is because i built a 2 cu. ft. box for my audiopulse axis with a 4 inch aeroport tuned to ~34 hz and it sounds fine, only up to a certain point though. I don't like the noise it makes, i guess that's what chuffing sounds like and i can't stand it so i turn the volume down. I was also only using a saz 1000d on it with absolutely horrible electrical so there's no way i was reaching its limits with it's insane power requirement. Now i know for a fact that that's not enough port area but i would still like to know if anyone uses a 4" and gets away with …

Is 180 a good price for a custom box from audio excelence. It was made for someone else but he said hed sell it to me for 180 its a big ported box thats tuned to 45hz thanks for your opinion

Hello again! Wanted to have a quick poll/question. So do most of you use MDF or HDPE for door speaker applications? I know some people won't touch any plastic for audio, but some would swear by some of the high quality stuff like HDPE. Your guy's votes/opinions?

Looking for some help with an enclosure for a 15" xcon... I could go sealed but I need the help of you gurus to figure out how to get it ported Currently I have the Xcon in an enclosure that is roughly: 32" w x 17" h x 15" deep ... I have a 2016 Mazda3 hatch. My max dimensions for depth is 19.5" but that's only keeping a flat wall, I'm wondering what can be done about having the enclosure sort of follow the back of seats at the present angle. Like so but less aggressive of an angle obviously...: So my hopes for the enclosure are: 1. Ported - 6" PSP port 2. Max dimesnions would be W-26" H-20" D1(top side)-19" D2(bottom side)- about 2…

I recently got a great custom box by Audibel Customs for free but I was thinking about building my own fiberglass/mdf enclosure. The only reason I went with Audibel Customs was for the free enclosure if not I would have gotten the Mach5 IXL's. But the Custom box Quentin built is great and hits hard. I just need more space. What I plan on doing is making everthing mdf except for the base/feet of the box. The reason is because my truck has a lot of bumps/curves on the bottom behind the seats and I can gain some airspace in order to do 2 SSA Icon 10's in the future once money comes. I have learned/researched alot of other build logs on fiberglassing and think I have the capa…

So i was a little bored today and had an hour to kill. I figure, all the equipent I have laying around... I might as well put something in the truck and play around. Dropped in my old CRX-stlye box, pair of RE SX 15"s, and an Orion 2500D. Setup for 2kw before Imp. Rise. Ran a sweep, found the boxes peak with these woofers. Burped a couple of times. Then went back to a sweep to get a good reading before the batt drained too much. Stock Delco batt (3 years old). So far for this season in Street C, this would've put me 6th place. http://www.termpro.com/asp/leaderboard3.asp Not bad for dropping in and not testing anything. -Nick

Current setup is Mach 5 MLI and Seas H1396 amplified by an Eclipse EA4000 and all the processing is done by my Alpine 9813. I'm very satisfied with the midbass output and the top end, it's just that midrange isn't cutting it After seeing Ryan2's idea with the Fostex FF85k's I thought trying a pair and ditching the tweeters. I don't want to invest in the H701 at this time and try 3-way (would require some sort of controller too and another 2 channel amp, not to mention the extra room ) The problem is placement. I have no room in the dash to mount them. Pics of the "locations" : One idea is to use the kicks. Passenger side is ok, driver's side could work but there's v…

I am looking at some new midbass drivers and it looks that they should be ported. So if and when I build this enclosure in/on my door is there a recommendation on where to point the port in this application? thanks in advance.

Hi i've had my fi btl in now for over two months and although im fine with it i've noticed its not hitting the highs quite as well as i want it too....but the lows are exremely awesome i have the box tuned to 33hz could that be the problem...any help is appreciated.

I have been reading on t-line boxes for a good 2-3 hours now and am just not understanding the design part 100%. Only one that I have read and felt like I somewhat understood was the "u-shape" style design. I have always done slot ported boxes and was always happy. I think it is time for me to learn a little more about boxes. So far, this is what I have grasped Say I wanted a box tuned to 34hz. I would take 1130 (the speed of sound,) divide that by 34. Which would lead me to 32.25ft (rounded a tad). I would multiply that by .25 because I am looking for the 1/4 wave length. I would need a port 8.0625ft long. And SD equals port area? Also I am aware this is not a full t-l…

I have a gmc Sierra ext cab and I have a half wall box. How could I secure it so if I crash it doesn't kill me?!

Live in Texas and the temp can range from 95 to 105 from May to middle of September. Just want know how to keep my amps cool from running and the temp being so high?

skip to about 9:30 to see them take apart the speaker box, or watch the entire video if you want a good laugh. I've never seen anything like this in my life. And I thought the chevelle that Meade fixed was bad LOL it does not compare to this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKH23bamIKU

So a few months ago I built a ported box for my HT with an IDmax at 3.2 cubes plenty of bracing and tuned to 27. Although it is plenty loud I find it quite boomy. If I'm listening to music that doesn't have much below low 30's it sounds fine, but on Hip hop and rap it just slams from 26-34ish like holy hell. I finally broke down and bought a table saw. Holy..akdkdfd its nice having a good saw (550 for Delta contranctor 680, that lists for 720 so I didn't do too bad. anyway here is a t-line (or part of one that I put together last night, I'll try to keep updating pics. Assuming line length is nearly doubled when fully stuffed, tapering from 2sd to .95sd. around 7.3 cubes …