SPL & SQ / Fabrication

im in need of a 3- 4" aeroports at parts express. their kits only go up to a 17" port tube. what should i do when i need atleast 21-24" of port length? i went to my local home depot and compared the pvc pipe with a 3" areoport i had laying around and they do not match up. so do i need to order "special" tubing for my application? thanks!

im not that good with google sketchup, but i was wondering which design would be better for a trunk setup porting through the rear deck? 33d 17h 35w with three 6" aero ports two sundown z 15's saz-3500d

this is kind of a silly question, but im in need of a little help. im starting my box tomorrow for my FI BL 15" and curious what kind of screws and glue i will need... OR any other materials i should get together. the box should be just under a 4 cu ft. i picked up a huge sheet of MDF today. just felt like asking you guys what you would recommend before i buy. THANKS!!

Ok. I have a 01 Ford F-250, Crew cab. I've been doing a lot of reading since my last thread. Got a better idea of what I want. I just need help deciding which route to take. First, I want a good staging and imaging. At first I didn't really care about this, but now I almost can't listen to my setup now because I can hear each speaker individually. Its really driving me crazy. As far as having a perfect reproducing of the recording, meh, I don't care so much about that. I don't want it way offf, but I want my tastes. Also, for step one I won't have a processor, I will eventually, and I'm sure I won't be able to dial everything in until, but I think I can live with it. Op…

Hey guys, I'm starting to design my system that I'm going to be putting together this summer. I wanted subs that have """SQL""" type features, which is why I'm thinking the 12" xcons are the best way to go. The box design I have come up with is going to go in my 2002 Hyundai XG350L. I am going to seal it off from the trunk, and have the port coming through where the backseat center armrest folds down. sort of a skipass type thing. I believe that I will be running either a SAZ-3500 or an AQ3500 but I will make the decision when its time to purchase. Let me know what you guys think, weather or not it will work. I don't know if I should put 45's in or not a…

From what I've been reading, using a ported box will give you a 3 db gain in output, as will using a second subwoofer. Right now I'm running a ported Dcon. So, if I were to buy another one, it would pretty much be a waste of money to run them sealed? I should be getting the same amount of output from one ported as I would from two sealed? (Someone should really change the title under my name from "Member" to "Forum idiot". )

hello ssa and people with grand prixs lol. i wanna but a 15 fi bl in the trunk of my 97 gp. but idk how i can make a big enough box but still fit in in through the trunk. people with gbs can i get some box dimentions please that would be great. thanks for veiwing.

I have a FI SSD 15. (bp power, flat coil) I currently have it in a 18x18x38 box tuned to 34-36hz somewhere in there. aprox 4 cubes. Im thinking of building a new box, what should i tune it to, and how many cubes? i find my box has a slight bit of port noise because there are no 45s and it doesnt go as quite low as i want it to. Iv heard other ssd 15's hit harder than mine, so im trying to squeeze every thing i can out of the sub. also with the box the way it is now, what should my Amp be set at? Lowpass and subsonic? If it matters: its going in a crew cab GMC, powered by a AQ1200. thanks, in advance all help is appreciated

Hi guys, i have a trunk car (2004 Camry) and right now my setup is sub/port back. I have experimented with placing the box closer to the front of the trunk (closer to the back seat) or further back (near the rear bumper), so far my car rattles less and sounds louder when closer to the bumper.. Question I had was, would I gain anything if I flipped my box so that the port/sub was firing into the cabin? if I am listening to the sub at high volume I usually fold the rear seats down to allow more air to move... Wanted to know if anyone with my car or a similar setup has tried this and what results they had before I manhandle a 100lb box and re-wire my amps etc.. thanks!

I have some final questions for my box build. I wanted to use two 8" aero ports that i was going to run through the rear deck to the box. Both ports will have to be 32 inches long which is two long. If i switch to two 6" will that be enough port area for two z 15's? I need to switch to a smaller diameter ports so they will be shorter. What are the pros/cons of doing this?

Alright, well as stupid as this Topic sounds, i have had a lot of questions from other people and myself. When you are building a box we all know that people don't just use 1 layer of MDF, they use 2-3 in heavy applications. In my instance, building a wall. So when i first started thinking/building my wall, i asked a older friend of mine (who is an aerospace engineer) to help me with building this. The only reason i add this in is to try and explain that he isn't a complete idiot. He also explained to me that because he works with airplanes he understands the concept of how vibrations cause things to break and how things have to be sealed. Not only that but he is very cra…

I would love to use PR for car audio application. Before I start designing the system I have a couple questions. 1. Will the automobile environment be too abusive for PRs? With a vehicle in motion, going over bumps and accelerating/deaccelerating, cause the PR's cone to move affecting performance? 2. I have read that downward firing a PR will cause the diaphragm to be displaced downward. If the PR is mounted cone up will the cause a similiar situation (diaphram sinks towards spiders)? In my current vehicle the only way I can use PRs is with cones pointed upward.

i have two fi bl 15`s n i wanna build a box for them tuned to 32hz but i have no idea wat size the box needs to be ? the build is for my xterra

Okay, I will be finished up my box tonight and had a few questions before I close it all up and get it hooked up. *I've seen online that it says to put weatherstripping around the hole for the sub before putting the sub in the box? This true? *And I've seen people use resin on the inside or their boxes to help the structure? This true aswell? Thanks for the help and thanks to everyone that has helped throughout my first build!!

im starting my new box build soon and curious what size aero port to use. the box will be 4 cu ft. should i use 1 6" port or 2 4" ports i used psp-inc.com and both would fit with the size of my box. just curious what u guys would use!? Thanks!!

I will not be competing in SPL contests, i just want LOUD bass (doesnt every basshead). The sub i will be getting is a Fi BTL either a 12 or 15, unknown due to money, I think a ported box would be the best, but my buddy told me that bandpass boxes are better. He said a 6th order box would be good, i have no idea what a bandpass or 6th order box is. Are they louder for the daily user? As stated in title, the car i currnetly have is a 2006 Toyota 4Runner, in it, i have mids and highs by pioneer, and they sound good.

Hey everyone. I'm starting my first build today and the dimensions of my box are going to be around 34w x 18h x 16deep. I wanted to have subs up and port along the bottom of the box facing the trunk (its a hatchback) and doing that would tune it to high. Am I able to put the port in the middle of the bottom or does the port have to be along the whole edge it is on? If it has to be along the whole edge I will probly put in vertically on the back side on either the left or right edge. Please help, this is urgent. I'm going to be starting it in a couple hours. Thanks, Ted

Hey guys..I haven't completely started building anything just yet and this will be my first build and was just wondering about the port type and location of it and the subs. I don't have any exact dimensions or anything just yet just need to get a simple idea first. I have 2 T12's (rockford) in a prefab box now and wanted to make an good box for them. Any idea's on port type, sub and port location would be appreciated. And any first time building tips! I've heard a lot about subs up and port back but not sure if anything else would sound better in a hatchback. Thank for the help in advance, Ted

Well my set up starts as this the 18 inch xcon will be going in my rear seat of my 1993 ford mustang gt i already have a cheap 15 inch sub in the hatch (its on its way to being replaced just figuring out with what) so back seat is where the xcon goes Now i have enough space for almost optimal ported box but it cuts visability down a fair bit and this is a daily driver. So my questions are how much sound loss would i loose roughly going with a sealed build as to a ported build ( not really going for sq tho most know xcons sound amazing anways). 2nd ? if i do go ported is there a huge diffrence between going say 6ft^3 affter displacement and bracing as apposed to say 7+ft…

Wondering what numbers you guys are hitting with your XCON trunk cars?

I haven't seen much on center consol builds and what I have found people seem to frown on them, but my brother has always wanted to build a custom center consol for his truck. Its a 2006 Chevy Silverado extended cab. He now has my old equipment and we are going to start on it. The sub will be a 12" death. It will fit between the two front seats, firing towards the rear of the cab. The center consol will be built all the way to the bottom of the dash, so the required airspace won't be a problem. The only thing I'm really not sure on is how to run the ports. We could build it so that the port either fires towards the driver side/passenger side of the truck, or both. …

Okay, have done some reading around, and from what I'm seeing is that guys are getting good results in x-cab s-dimes with an up-firing sub/ side firing port design. So, I'm thinking I might give this a try. vehicle: 03 chev s-10 subwoofer: RE Audio SEx 15 (dual 4 ohm coils) Amplifier: JBL GTO 601 (600 watts @ 2 ohms) Looking at doing an enclosure out of .75" MDF Outside measurements: 15" height * 40" width * 16" depth Slot port: 14.5" wide * 3" high (port area of 43.5") * 23.5" long (tuning ~33.5 Hz) Net enclosure volume: 3.6 ft^3 Big question I have is, will 43.5" of port area be enough, or do I need more to prevent terrible port noise? Thanks for your opinions in advanc…

I am building an enclosure for my 12 xcon and this is the first enclosure iv ever built so please let me know if i am doing anything wrong. I had my 3/4 mdf cut and i was going to use wood glue and wood screws. when i went to put in the screws into the vertical pieces of wood, the wood split. I tryd every screw i could think of any i couldnt figure anything out.. also how do you screw into the wood after you have just put wood glue on. the wood just slips around when you try to screw?

hey guys have 2 18" smd subs, have xtra cab f150,trying to do NW have 20d x 24h x 57w so i have 11cuft = 5.5 per sub,trying to get into the 50's but i cant seem to get there, any help appr.I have interchangeable port spl port 17x 13 thats the biggest i could fit, subs up on passenger port up on driver,double 13 ply birch all of box,running stetsom 7k2d 4xs power batts (2700's) 1 h/o alt ohio gen.4 runs 0 gauge 2 pwr 2grnd to the 3 batts in rear,should i just go for the wall? i'd get about 20 cu ft. SSNW1-2. ANY HELP THNKS

Okay, so ive been trying to decide what i want to do with my 600 dollar tax return. i get it in a week. =) not bad for only working two months eh? lol anyways... I have a 96 tacoma regular cab pickup with the bench seat in it. I have had a few systems in it. I have a brutus bxi2008d. My PLAN is to get an SA 12 and build a box as big as can behind my seat. (after many measurements and few boxes that ive already built i think i can get about 2.3 cube inside of a 3/4 box before any displacements) with that said onto my questions... i have been using the12volts calculator for port length.... with from i have heard the general rule of thumb is 12-16 inches of port area per c…