SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i sold my crx i coudnt keep fixing it anymore my transmission went out i have bought the 18 xcon when they were on sale used for $300 and i now financed a 2003 acura cl!!! i miss my rex and now i cant use my 18 xcon i need help deciding new system i dont wanna tear my new car up but i want it to be loud and have some sq without tearin it up

im getting ready to build a sealed for for an 87 trans am, for 2 soundsplitter rl-p 12's. i think i'm going to have to use the entire well to get over 1 cubic foot per speaker, but i'm not sure exactly what im going to be working with, and this will be my first custom box. any tips, hints, blueprints, pictures, any kind of help anyone with a third generation f-body can give me? any thoughts on ideal air specs for running about 700 watts to each sub? i want to use 2 separate chambers right? thanks, Shaun

i have been killin myself trying to figure out a box design for my ranger and have gotten nowhere with it. i got a couple reply's on other forums but nothing set in stone. the sub is a 15"btl and my dem are 50" wide x 16 tall x 16 deep, 5.9cf before sub displacement and port displacement. i need it to have ports on both sides of the sub cause i want the sub in the center of the box (its that way to even out the weight in the truck). i would like it tuned to around 33-34hz.. any help on figuring my port length would be great. please put in laymans terms cause i am not very bright when it comes to this kinda stuff. any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks btw the sub…

I decided on a vehicle, and am just waiting for my check; In the mean time, I have some money set aside to start on the system in the new truck. So far i've decided on the equipment for the front stage (Zed and Crescendo speakers) just not how many lol. I think $1250-1500 is fair for a setup; and that's what i'll put towards the subs. (tax money will pay for the front stage ) My goal is as loud as possible below 40hz. I sold my BTL this morning, bittersweet, I only got to enjoy it for a few days before losing my truck But the new plan is a bunch of obsidians on a hifonics BRX 2400. I'm thinking four 18's, 24cubes @ 30hz. That is about half the budget there, plus…

1 18" DC Level 5. Still waiting for some other bits to come in (amp/battery). But in the mean time, we want to go ahead and start on the box. We were thinking of these two options. 1) Sub up/ports up. Have sub in middle, with a port on each side of sub instead of a single port. Does anyone see any negatives to this besides using up more wood/cost more? etc... Basically would like to do it this way because OCD side is taking over, and we would like to keep it symmetrical. 2) Sub up/port back. This would just be sub up, with a single port along the bottom of the back of the enclosure. Pretty straight forward. Basically, just looking for yall's opinions. Which do you t…

Hello all, I am building a budget spl system an need help with the enclosuer.I have one Sundown audio saz-1500d an two audiobahn aw1206t 12" subwoofers. The enclosure has to be under 7 cu ft outside. My car is a acura cl 1997 I have two Orbital 950ca batteries ,1/0 wire a fusion preamp with 8 vols outs. I know the flame q is not the best sub for spl but I can get them for $130.00 per set.

Hey guys, got a huge favor to ask, i'm doing my first build for a customer, for a neighbor, for an Icon 15d2 in about 4cubes @ 28hz forward firing in a 01 deville What should I shoot for for port area, and have any of you done forward firing setups in a deville before? I'm tryna make a good impression lol. We're going to carpet it to match the trunk for a stealthy look, well, as stealthy as a ported fifteen can be lol. It'll fire through the ski pass. I guess I'm super anxious about it since building for yourself you never have to worry about an upset customer, you just rebuild. Thanks in advance. Edit: It's for a blend of all types of music, and the mids and highs are t…

i'm new to car audio, but would really like to learn to custom build and fabricate (amongst other things), so i was wondering where i could go to learn to do those things. i know there are tutorials, but i learn better with hands-on experience, so are there any places anyone could suggest. thanks for your suggestions

I recently found this box picture: I love how the port and the edges are rounded. I'm guessing that on the edges that they achieved that with a lot of sanding. I'm wondering how to shape the port like that. I'm considering remaking my box, to try to achieve something like this. It looks completely badass.

So, I need to find a small, color, wide angle camera to mount in the mustang. looking out the rear window. Prolly mounted to the headliner looking through the hatch glass.... maybe in the hatch keyhole. Inversly, I'd also need to find a cheap LCD monitor to glass into the dash. not so big. 4-7". I need some kind of rearview mirror... a wall will tend to prohibit that. any advice? Google has yielded me alot of $500+ rearview systems for RV's & delivery trucks that are quite big & bulky. Thanks -Nick

I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've neve…

Right now my enclosure is 6.5 cubes tuned about 33. Port area is only about 82 . . Was wondering what kind of changes you think I could see by lowering the volume more to increase the port area to cubic foot ratio

okay guys i have finished everything on my box expect the circle for the sub and the hole for the wires.. my friends router is broken now and no one seems to have one.. what tool can i purchase that is CHEAP and works alright.. it doesnt have to be perfect...

Im thinking about building a new box to try and improve sq in my setup a little. i have a 3.75 cu ft box with like 60 inches of port tuned to 32 now, slot port on one side of the two subs. this box is a little bigger than what my subs call for and is an awful lot of port area. im thinking about bringing the box down to 3.2 or smaller and using a 8 round port and flaring the ends tuning to 32. if my math is right 8 is 50 sq inches of port correct? im thinking about choking it down to 7" which is like 38~ and run @ 3 cu ft. im running like 1600-2000 watts BXI2006d would the round port sound better. as with the smaller box? edit" running 2 DC audio lvl4 12s. call for 1.5 c…

Starting a new box build this weekend. I'm doing a slot port for this one. The box is 23" long with a 2.25" wide port. Need a 27" long port to tune. According to my math, the L section of the port needs to be 4" long. This assumes 2.25" from end of box to edge of long port length which I come up with 20.75. Taking center of port at 21.875 that leaves me with an L of 5.125 center. Subtracting back in 1.125 of center leaves me with 4". For end correction, I need to add back in 1.125 which brings me back to 5.125" L I've had a long week. Is my math correct? I don't design a lot of slot ports. Thanks! Dave

So I am thinking of adding another Xcon 15" (1ohm) and not sure if I should stay ported or go sealed...I have a Hifonics BRX2000.1D which currently runs my ported 15" (1ohm dvc) w/ 1400rms @ 2ohm. I don't intend to upgrade the amp as right now my stock alternator seems fine, and have no plans to upgrade alternator anytime soon...sooo... Running two subs will pretty much leave me with 1k rms for each sub...and the idea of staying ported or going sealed is keeping me awake at night! Not to mention enclosure size and design. In the back of my Santa Fe has a storage compartment which houses my amps, but I get the feeling with it being so hollow it could be echoing my ba…

as of right now i am sound dampening, already heavily dynomated but not enough for me personally. so i am covering the interior with mdf and foaming between the mdf and all metal. the back wall will be about 3"soild, needless to say i want solid. i am going to have the subs facing up behind the two front seats, i have 12.9 cu ft gross and 10.77 net cu ft of space to work with. the box will be constructed from 1.5" mdf and internally braced with 5/8" all thread. the plan is to have an interchangable port set-up for SQ and SPL for compitition. if anyone has any ideas i would like to hear them, this is the first time i have ever used soundsplinter subs. my last sub i ha…

I currently have my 15 L7 mounted in a 1.5ft.^3 sealed enclosure powered by a RF Power 1001db 1000watts @ 2ohm in my brothers semi truck it's a international 9400i with a bunk bed sleeper, it has mb quarts 6.5 components up front and 5.25 coaxial in the rear powered by a zapco ag360 with a clarion dxz 575 head unit. My goal is to get real loud and maybe enter competition in the future and upgrading to two L7's or even 2 fi 15 bl's and space is not problem. i listen ti wide range of music but mostly reggae, hip-hop, r&b, rap, pop, and some classics, its my first time building a ported box but i have experience in building sealed, so it would helpful if you guys could h…

whats the smallest ported box, but most spl with 1100w. its going in the trunk of a 94 corolla so size is a issue. thanks jamie

I have a question for anyone on here that has experience with 6th order enclosures or blow-through boxes. I have finally gathered everything I needed for my build in my silverado (standard box). The part that has been bothering me is that the build that I originally based my idea on was Jack Chisam's Sleeper. The basic design was a series ported 6th order with the front chamber untuned and the back tuned around 30hz. it is a 3:1 ratio 6th order. The woofers I chose were the Zcons (6) and I am running them from a American Bass 1100.1 (maybe 2 in the future). The amp and batteries are in the very back of the bed on the back side of the box. So, with all this being s…

I've decided to start murdering my truck out except with chrome here and there. So here is my start.

Alright guys, im in college for Mechanic Apprenticeship and one of my courses next semester is Electrical Accessories, Guess what we get to build! A sub box, Considering i already have a daily box for my BTL 18, i was considering building something for pure SPL if i ever want to try out a competiton.. Anyways, i was just curious from your experiences what platform is the best for pure spl builds, just a basic slot port, 4th order, 6th order ect. (This will be in the trunk so no walls.) Once i get some information about this ill sit down and see what i can come up with.

Has anyone ever built, seen, or heard a deathbox enclosure? I would like to build one myself but have only heard about deathbox and I never found the build plans. I would like to test the enclosure with a 10" mtx woofer and see what the enclosure is capable of. I stuffed the mtx in a sealed enclosure and it produces tight bass but nothing fantastic about it at 300watts. So if anyone knows where I can find the build info for the deathbox, I'd really appreciate it! Or let me know if you have ever heard one in person!

Hey guys! I did a bit of reasearch but couldn't find a good topic about this. What do you guys reccomend for some good box building tips for the best box possible? Not like designs so much (Although if you wanted to post set-ups such as like...Explorer, sub up port back (as an example) that might be helpful to some), but things to do in the box. Things like: Rounding the port edges to flairs 45 degree angles in the corners for standing waves placing the subwoofer so its at the back of the port length where to add braces so that turbulence is minimized (or using rod threads or your favorites) those were a few I could think of as example and I'm not even sure if they're al…

Hey all.Is it true that you can build a wall and then slide it in your car?Ive heard of people doing this but wasn't sure if it was real or what.If its real how would I go about doing it?I want to build a wall but I dont want to spend 1200 bux to have some one build it so I was going to attempt to do it myself.I have a 2007 Dodge caliber and was wanting 4 15's if it helps any.