SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hi guys, out of the 18 years and over 10 systems I have only had a ported box once. Well I have decided to give it a try and am going to build my own ported enclosure. I can say there are a few things iI need to know. I am building an enclosure for a 15" sub for the trunk of a 2001 pontiac grand prix gtp, so height can't be over 16". I want the enclosure to work for my current sub but be able to put the subwoofer im going to buy later in it. I plan to buy either a DD 2515, DC level 3 or 4, or SSA xcon. For now i have an Alpine mrd-m1005 amp. I am going to get a bigger amp later as well because i like to over power subs a bit so i can get loud for local drags and so I coa…

Just made my first go at this google sketch up and was wanting some feed back to see if i need to make any corrections i'm building for either 3 fi bl 12's or 3 psi platform 2 12's heres a pic of what i have came up with so far

So I know what SQ means and I'm not going 100% that route. I want something that sounds good to my ears. I don't want a flat band but then again I don't want a U either. I want a good blend of bass to midbass and no harsh highs, but I do like loudish tweeters. Not the cheap hood ninja ones where they have 4 sets. To start off, its going in my 01 Ford F250 CrewCab. I'm thinking of Headunit- Kenwood DoubleDin(no sure on which yet.) Subbass- 2 10 AA Chaos(Behind backseat) Midbass/Midrange -AA 7" CF mid(Factory Door location) Tweeter- AA Seas tweeter Processor- Not sure yet. (I like the RF 3sixty) Sub amp- Sundown SAZ1500v2(or 2000d) Mid amp- Crossfire VR404 bridged Tweeter a…

Alright, so my boss finally warming up to the idea of making a wall in his Cavalier for our shop demo car! Now, this isn't 100% going to happen, but I'm excited and want to be ready for when he decides. I know this place has a ton of knowledge, plenty and plenty of people who have made walls. I guess I'm looking for just general rules and/or tips to make sure it will turn out well. Iv decided just to make a normal, flat and vented wall. Leaning towards 4 15's with a nice big slot port on the drivers side. Any tips are welcome of course, thanks guys!

I plan on competing SQ this year. I'm not sure on what pics I need for the presentation. Can somone give me some tips to get me started? Thanks

Hi guys, I'm about to start on my first build. I've got a temp. sub that has been laying around for a while that I want to use until i get some money saved up to rebuild. It's a sonly Xplod 12 (I know) it'll be running off a rockford fosgate 300.1 in a trunk. I'd like to have the tuning somewhere around 28hz-32hz.. I'm not sure how the driver will like it so i'll let you guys tell me what ya'll think. It'll be going in a 2002 Buick Regal trunk. The demensions are: W=45", L=45", H=21.5". Those are the max demensions. If you guys need any more information just feel free to ask. The subwoofer model is: XS-L120P5W

hello all! i just ordered my 18" FI BL driver and am working on designing a box for this beast. i figured id go big as i am leaving for basic training(US Army) in about 6 months. Im looking to take the backseat out of my jeep wrangler and replace it with a fairly large box for this woofer. iv built some smaller sealed boxes and they have all come out fine but this will be my first time building a vented box any advice that you can share would be amazing and i thank you in advance. As far as the sub goes these are the specs that FI gives for it, i measured out my jeep and got some measurements that would work, i came up with a width of 32" a height of 16"(was planning on h…

Okay guys, I need your help on this one. Now ive built a few boxes and understand the basic concepts/calcs of everything but have never built a wall before. My brother asked me yesterday if I would build him one yesterday and thats why im posting this today. Can anyone give me some tips and explain the order at which i should start it? **Now Im not asking you to explain every single thing (tuning or port size or anything like that which would depend on the subs, which he hasnt decided on yet) Thanks for any input and as always its appreciated.

So I decided to make an amp rack. I figured I could make a simple wall cut-out with some simple cardboard templates and a skil saw. I spent the better part of the afternoon doing this. A Crescendo 3500 will go on this rack, I plan to make holes and grommets for all cables. I will put any distribution blocks or speaker terminal bays underside and or speaker connector block thing (Don't know the name). I'll update this as I finish it, and post it in a build log later. Just wanted to share what I did today! It's my first time, far from perfect or even clean looking. But this is a passion and a hobby of mine, and I want to do this all myself and learn from experience. I …

i would like some idea's please i have about 3.352 cft internal external 40.5"width 10.5"height 18 depth,i wish to use 2 or 3 old usd 1260 subs. speaker paremeter RE 5.24 QTS 0.39 QMS 15.60 FS 12.29 QES 0.40 XMAS 3.708 LE 1.01 Z 8 OMH PE 200 i would like to try and build a transmissione line box. i found this info for building the above box.please can any one help me all help will be gratefuly recieved. below is an example of how to make a transmission line 43.46 / 4 = 10.86 10.86 is the throat length of the enclosure. Designing a transmission line enclosure ________________________________________ sample specs. -- radiating area of subwoofer …

Attempting to fit two 18" drivers (fi bl) in 34" width. Each driver would be mounted to an angled piece of double baffle mdf. I made a simple rendering to give a visual: Width is 34", each angled piece would be 20"x20" and angled at 45degree angle. The distance from edge of box to where the angled pieces meet would be approx 10". enclosure will be ported, most likely with aero ports for the sake of being easy. Has anyone had any experience with a enclosure like this? output wise vs conventional ported enclosures? Does the fact of the drivers being angled towards each other cause any problems, cancellation, etc. any other input? thank you

I have a 98 single cab ford ranger. Idk if I'll be satisfied with shallow mounts. I've been looking into the fi q. I really think I could fit it behind the seats with he sub directly behind the armrest. I think the recommended sealed volume is about .6-.8 cu ft for one 10" , and I've always wanted to try a Q out. Especially for lows. Anyone see any hope in this? I'm starting to become a little discouraged. According to box calculators, I could make the box out to about .8 after sub displacement. If I should just stop wasting my time and settle on shallow mounts, please give me cheap recommendations. I've never really heard one.

This is what happens when you get wood cut at home depot. I got all my cuts at home depot and some are 1/16 to short. they wasnt using the regular saw. i was wondering can i use some sealer tape for the cracks?

This is what happens when you get wood cut at home depot. I got all my cuts at home depot and some are 1/16 to short. they wasnt using the regular saw. i was wondering can i use some sealer tape for the cracks?

I have a 97' Thunderbird that Im doing now. I wanted either a pair of Fi BTL12s or Fi BL15s. I want the BL15s because I would save a lil money on power and can be used in other areas such as the build, elec system, etc..... But the enclosure size needed is kinda on the large size for my trunk. But I can fit them in there if I angle the baffle and use 2-6" aero ports. My real question is I was reading on another forum that a guy with a mustang (which is basically the same trunk as mine) had success with his subs facing forward and his aeros on the side. He said that subs back/port side was the loudest on the meter but subs forward/port side was the loudest to ear. Has anyb…

I am wanting to try building a enclosure with a flared port and was wondering exactly how to do it if anyone can help with this i would really appreciate it.

Which port, on average, is after for spl? What is the major goods and bads of each? I will be using 1 maybe 2 dc xl 12s and then later 3 level 2 8s or sa-8s.

I know those precision sound ports from parts express are pretty popular so i am thinking someone might have an answer for me when using the psp flared port length calculator (http://www.psp-inc.com/tools.html) is the "flare length port required" from the ends of the flared portion of the port? or is it the straight length portion that the flared ends connect to? thanks in advance

Is each quantity for a 17" Long tube? What if it needs to be longer? 4" Port Tube

I was looking at the 4" flared port tubes. I don't know too much about them but how do you find tuning for your box with them? And how much do they displace?

1. other than using the 16in per cube rule, how do you guys calculate how much port you need? and is this an accurate calculator? http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm?id=31 2. how much port area do you need when using aero ports? same calculation? 3. when using a flared port, how do you calculate the tuning; for example, does the flared part of the port count towards its overall length? always tryin to learn new things here, thanks guys

http://forum.realmofexcursion.com/showthread.php?t=23802 Just saw these. FRIGGEN COOL! I may just have to get a circular saw for my BTL box.

I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've neve…

I have a recording studio and have folded horn pa subs and is the loudest and cleanest of all the pa designs. I was wondering if anyone has made a folded horn sub for a car (I've never seen one but maybe I'm ignorant) and the pros and cons. Thanks

ok so i got a 4runner and im running 1000 watts for a skar vvx-10 that should be here in couple days. Howevers i built a box at 1.25 tuned to 30 hertz and too me it seems like a big box just for a single 10, so the question i ask is the box to big or not tune right for my 4runner thanks