SPL & SQ / Fabrication

This is a box I am building for a friend. For an 8" Kicker L5, There is very minimal space in his Jeep TJ, so the height is pretty much no give for the size of the sub, even though it is an 8". This is the first box I have ever built before, so I know it may seem a bit rough in some parts, but I am working on it to make it look good for my buddy. If you guys have any comments about it to make it better, please let me know! after all i am only a beginner! Thanks! 0408001333.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306a.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306b.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket

I am thinking about picking up a new ride to play with and probably compete in. i know CRXs are concidered "loud" but what about a camaro. Similar shape. much bigger ballz! anyway i was wondering if anyone has seen any loud camaros at the shows.

just need to know if anyone could tell me the port lengths inside this box http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-0-FT-3-TUNED-32Hz-SLOT-VENTED-CUSTOM-MDF-SUB-ENCLOSURE-2-10-INCH-SUBS-/400326246337 id rather make the box instead of buying it lol, but if anyone could be so kind to help out thatd be great

Has a anyone ever seen sealed door pods with atweeter for a 05 Chevy. I'm dieing to get my components in my new truck.

What is the best way to determine the frreq of a box? How do you calculate the Hz it will be tuned to?

i have 1K on two Fi BL 12 rear firing in the trunk. would putting a hole in the rear deck improve SPL?that in the cabin will it cause problem for my 6x9 on the rear deck??? what the best way to do it?? Thanks Inadvance!!!!!

Just like the title says, what is the best way to splice a wire? Solder? If so what kind? How about some sort of crimp thingamabob?

Only one sub rite now the other one will be in on Tuesday. Box is 7.1 cubes tuned @ 30hz Hit 144.4 sealed up at 43hz without much testing. 146.7 outlaw.

Hey all. I've been riding with the ICON sealed for some time and want to put it in a ported box. Really not sure how to make sure the design is correct or even how to work WinISD but below is what I've gathered. I was posting on diymobile and got some help and was suggested a ported box, 2.0ft^3 @ 30hz will give the flattest response. Below is a copy paste from the sticky of "making a correct box design thread" Vehicle : 08 Acura TL Location in the vehicle: Trunk Space available (Length x Width x Height): 23x19x14 (Can be wider and deeper than height) Subwoofer make and model: SSA ICON Subwoofer Size: 12" Number of Subwoofers: 1 Type of Port (Kerfed, Slot, Aero, etc.…

Just made a new box for my 21" dp (the amp I will be running is a sundown 3500, I have (2) 1750 strapped right now about 3000 watts) in a 2000 Ford Taurus. (8.3 cu ft/32hertz) The sub is facing up, with a top on it to direct wave more in the car and stop trunk rattle. The port is firing in the car. (I guess its sort of a 4th order/ported box combo) During the build I wanted to make sure since the port would be firing in the car and the sub facing up with a top on it, to completely seal the front wave from the rear trunk. After the installation, it was loud but noticeably louder with the trunk open. Ok I must have missed sealing something..... I noticed I missed a few spot…

I know that the guys in Potsdam at Northern Music & Video did 4 winter shows this year, but I was just wondering if anyone was going to do that again this year, or are they going to try to kind of synchonize them with the other shops in the area that are going to be putting on shows?? I mean I know the guys at NM&V will put on their shows, I am sure that Ultimate Edge will do their shows again next season, I know that peteyglad and myself will be doing shows in conjunction with Happy Ear nest year. Just wondering if anyone was doing the winter shows again.

I'm working on a home theater sub. It'll be an aa avalanche 18 in an 21 cu ft llt tuned to 15 hz. I'm trying to figure out how to cut the complicated bracing in this box design. So I was thinking if I got someone to CNC the bracing I can cut the rest of the boards and will have a much easier build. Any suggestions are appreciated. Here is a link. And some pics of the design. I have the google sketchup file, and was wondering if it would be able to make templates of each piece and print them on a plotter. Then I'd cut them to size with a table saw and cut them out with a jig saw. Link to build post

me and my friend made a ported box tuned to 28 hz ... we followed the volume according to the specifications of the subwoofers (2 12" pioneer premier ts-w3002d4) ... we made 2 separate 1.4 cu ft boxes ... the output is not what we thought it would be ... we want it to be louder and maintain sound quality ... what size cu ft box should we make to get more output? .... should we combine them into a single box? ... if so how do you do the portwork insde?

this is kind of a silly question, but im in need of a little help. im starting my box tomorrow for my FI BL 15" and curious what kind of screws and glue i will need... OR any other materials i should get together. the box should be just under a 4 cu ft. i picked up a huge sheet of MDF today. just felt like asking you guys what you would recommend before i buy. THANKS!!

For those with hatchbacks and/or hatchback experience. Folding rear seats, so large enclosures will work. What enclosure has worked best for you? CRX style? Sub up, back, forward, or angled towards glass? Port up, back, forwatd, or angled towards glass? Daily driver. I'm tempted to try something in the Mazda for the uberwoofer. Can be pretty large, so uncommon enclosures can work as well. It'll boil down to having the sub and port firing forward between the seats or any of the above ways.

Iv been doing some research in advance of me competing next year. Although I will be doing a ton of testing on the termlab once I start building my setup, I wanted to get a starting point as it will obviously make things a bit easier. Basically my main question is going to be if anyone has actually tested the correlation between vent mach and spl readings. Iv been reading that best results come out of about a 0.05% vent mach in a build, but on the other hand you see high powered, high sd setups only using 8" aeroports that are putting up huge numbers. I may be over-thinking this, I'm just trying to grasp as many concepts as possible before I start testing so that I ca…

I am using CAD right now to try to make a 3d design of my box. My question is if it is an 8 cu ft. box before displacement with external aeroports, what kind of internal bracing am I going to need even with a double baffle? This is getting a fully loaded 18" BTL by the way, with a Sundown 3000d. If I use 3/4" MDF will I have a problem with too much flexing? Also one question this is my first build, first system and I want to know what your guys preference is on MDF from different suppliers. All I really have around here is a Menards and I work there so I can get a small discount on it there. I just wondered what you guys think of the quality of Menard's MDF compared to ot…

Add me to the list that can break windshields on call http://audioforum.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/...40;t=019121;p=1

I am a novice and I have heard it discussed about "tuning" to 30-35 htz. How is this accomplished?

Who are the reputable box builders hanging out on this site? Going to be needing a box sometime soon.

i hope this is the right section butt.... Im still a nexb to box building and I want to make a ported box. It will house two sound splinter Rl-p 12s. I still need to find an amp so i dunno the exact wattage ill be giving them, but i want to give them like 600-800 a piece so thatd be 1200-1600 total. I want kind of an LSQ tuning so would 34hz be alright? (thats what the site suggests) If not then just tell me what you guys would think the best LSQ tuning would be. Then how do I figure out the dims of the slot port once i kno what hz i want??

Hey all, newb here! I just ordered a 12" BTL, so I have about 3 weeks to plan my build, with the biggest project being the box. I heard a while ago that in an SUV, a setup in which the subwoofer is pointing up, and the port is pointing back is optimal (straight from Memphis Audio), but yesterday I found a page showing tests that the subwoofer pointing back yielded higher SPL levels versus the same sub pointing up or even to the side. Which is correct? Does anyone have any personal experience with SUVs that can shed some light for me? I will probably be building the box to Fi's cut sheet dimensions, just need to know whether to put the sub on top, with the port facing…

ok, i did a 143.9 w/ my 2 15's. and i'm wanting to redo the box to try for louder. i'm putting about 750-800 to them a piece. do you think i could get 1 15 w/ 1600w louder than the 2? or would i be better off sticking w/ the 2?

I have an audiopulse axis 15 and a saz3000. I finally got my non-blown sub in the box and in the car. I was tunin it all and saw my hair movin it the window, so i got my gf to come over for a try at a hair trick. enjoy