SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I am currently in Iraq and cannot measure my doors. I drive a 2004 Ford Focus sedan. Does anyone have a Focus or know the mounting depth? I have some MLI-6.5s but they were incredibly inexpensive as I got them used from a friend and I would have no qualms with not using them. I really would like to know if I can fit the Peerless SLS 8" in my doors. I know 8"s fit diameter wise, or at least they look like it from here: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/9621. It would be awesome to have enough low end up front that I could put my RL-i 10 in a sealed box to save some space or even do away with a sub together.

I need a wall built , anyone from Dallas/FORT WORTH area can build ,know wut they doing ? Let me know In a yukon xl 2006 . 4 -18's

Hi All, Now at my job i search McMaster-Carr very frequently. and today i decided "hey lets see what they have for sound stuff" (cause they have EVERYTHING! lol) so i did a quick search for "Sound" and found they have some nice sound barrier material and some nice sound dampening stuff, looks just like the Sound Deadener Showdown Stuff just thicker and with a backing ( http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi ) any ways i was just wondering if the stuff on mcmaster-carr is good sound barrier or good sound dampening? Links Below: McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr

I got my RL-p 15 metered in a ported box running it with about 800 watts and I hit 146.3, which is above my goal but not enoguh for me competition wise. So I was thinking about getting 4 or 5 Assasin 8's for competition. Only problem is that I have a ED 9.1 amp, and it only goes to 1 ohm, the speaekrs would be wired parallel and that would give them .8 ohms. I'm guessing it would be ok to run this on that amp because the wires and everything would bring it to a grand total of over 1 ohm right? Also, would five 8's be overkill? Should I just stick with 4 instead? Thanks alot.

I am doing box plans for free (technically). All that I request you do is sign up for my free ipod link and do an offer. I do everything by hand and I will design a rough outline, cut sheet, and assembly instructions for you. Think of it as trading my time for your time. You can do that offer for free by going through the ancestry.com site.

Hi I was just wanting to let everyone know that I do free subwoofer enclosure designs if anyone is interested just send me a pm with dimensions and your subwoofer model and I'll get back to you as soon as possible. Also I can build quality subwoofer enclosures at an extremely low price so if anyone is interested in that send me a pm with the subwoofer model,box dimensions,what type of music you will be listening to, and if you will be entering in any SPL competitions. My email is [email protected] and if you would like to contact me by phone my number is 901-569-3975 and ask for Spencer. EDIT: Mods if at all possible can you pin this because I don't really want to hav…

Looking to see if anyone can design a box for me. Gimme a layout and dimensions and whatever else would help. Don't know if anyone on here just does free ones because they like to help people? or charge a fee. Just let me know if you can help me. It would be for a single Xcon18. Thanks

I've looked around for different test tones, i still dont know how to make my own, but i found a site that offers free test tones 10 seconds long. there is a place at the bottom to download a zipped version of all the songs. Stereo, 16 bit, 44,100 KHz 0 db http://www.ronelmm.com/tones/

I have a 12" GCON in a 2.5ft^3 enclosure tuned to 32hz. I have been lacking in response toward higher frequencies and was curious to know where the drop was happening, as it is quite a steep slope. I was playing with a tone generator this evening and from 28 to 50hz sounded amazing but as soon as I hit 53hz I lost significant dbs. There was another significant drop at 60hz. Is this due to my box tuning? Can a ported enclosure be expected to produce these frequencies with significant spl? What can I do to get these frequencies to play? Separate subs dedicated to that range? box position doesn't seem to make a difference. Vehicle is a 96 Honda accord sedan.

Wassup everybody?! I am going to add another 18 in my gmc Sierra Ext cab and I am wondering what is the best port placement for this setup? Also they are aq hdc3 18's and it will be around a 13 or 14 cube box@ 30hz my goals are a daily ground pounder that's loud as all get out, I may start going to comps

Here is a link from CDT that has basic knowedge on staging, also includes many install guides and specs for their products. http://www.cdtaudio.com/downloads.htm

I am about to start a build log (finally) but I want to get some final suggestion(s) on my Front stage. It's going in a 1998 Honda Civic 2-door coupe. Big 3 in 1/0. 170 amp alt. XS Power D680 and D5100R (front)-1/0. 4 gauge to amps from D680 that is in the rear. Kenwood 942HD head unit, I use the cross-over controls on the head unit. Previous setup...Kenwoods 5 1/4 co-axials...Front....Pioneer 6X9's in rear. (in car when I brought it) 2 ch 2 ohm (200x2) on the Sundown 125.2 I didn't like it...sounded OK (on mainly Pop and Hip hop) , the rear was always louder than the front stage (which was irritating at times). It wasn't very balanced. I listen to all music Jazz…

after a little debate.. well not too much I've decided this has to be asked on this forum not ROE, where most consider SQ to be 2 pair of loud Pa speakers with no tweets I'll be running a set of tc 3hp motors w/ fi top ends.. dare I say Sealed, over there If I mentioned sealed I'd be crucified But on to the front stage. I have a alpine 7949 deck, and a sony xm5046(mobile es) so plenty of power for a nice front stage. First time running active. I usually run passive comp sets, which I have liked, but want to try my hand at active and see the differecne. I was considering a set of seas excels, with a lpg tweeter. What would you suggest that would sound as good and …

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

i have my cart full and about ready to order in the next few days so what I need to know since ssa store does not carry fuses what website do all of you order your fiuses from

if you havent seen how small the trunk is on this car, motor trend stated specifically that it was about 7.1 cubes TOTAL! i cant lose the space under the floor because there is no other room for amps/batteries, and i have to leave about 10 inches from the box to the very back of the trunk for tools and etc. with this said, the question is; what is the best design and setup for maximum SPL with keeping it in daily drive limits? i worked up a few partial boxes and havent really made one that pleases me yet. the biggest so far is two seperates (against rear seat, L and R) 1.6 cubes, each for a 12". sub must be on a mild angle toward trunk lid. is this adequate for a sub li…

when setting your gains on amps why cant you turn them all the way up. and if you have them less then half way are you still getting the rated power of the amp. say if the amp is 1000w RMS are you getting that no matter what the gains are set too..... jamie

I need some music in the garage while i work on my car so it's not dead out there... I have spare parts from car audio that i will use, so as u see, nothing in specific like building in the car... I have a 10" sub Audiobahn Eternal wired to sundown 100.4 bridged at 8ohm. Outputting only ~108w on a test tone is PLENTY of power for this 10" sub. It can successfully drop down to 20hz on some custom music i made so i know it's not a bad driver to use for simple music setup. Now, the box i have it in is not suitable.. but i have a problem... The low end extension doesn't become really audible below ~30hz unless i am standing 20ft away from it. How can I get decent low end outp…

Have a 12" GCON in a sealed box. It sounds great but I am wanting more and I know the sub will give it to me if I can put it in the right enclosure. I used the ICON enclosure design for the sealed box it is in now, would the ICON ported design work well for the GCON as well? It falls into the optimal range, 2.5f^3 tuned to 33hz. It is a 2 ohm sub with 500 watts powering it in the trunk of a '96 accord. I have about 32" x 20" x 18" to work with. Anyone have any experience or recommendations for a ported box design that will work well with the GCON?

HI everyone. I come with another question. I know there are probably many variables but I was wondering if there is a general guideline as to when bracing is required for a sub box. Lets say for instance my sub is a 12 that requires a sealed 1 ft.cu. box with 1 inch mdf. It will be fed 1500 watts rms. Would I need to brace this box? does it make a difference if the box is sealed or ported? Thanks!

If someone was going to build a sealed enclosure, and the woofer in question listed a box size of, say 0.75^3 to 1.5^3, how do you determine what size ^3 would best suit the woofer? Is that something that the tsparameter would tell you? Or, just build something in that size range and get equal results??? Just curious...

ok my friend will build me a box in his wood shop but i need to get him plans. SI 15 MAG, ported. what do you think of the aeroports? is it worth it for only $25 extra? most people use 2 of them at $12 each. power will be a hifonics ZEUS 1000D 1000@1ohm it is a lexus 2002 es300. should be the same as the new camrey. people have put 2 15 in there before with a almsot bent box. i only need 1. the red strap is what i will be using to hold the sub in place, i would also love there to be ehough room to put my trunk battey next to the box. it is 6.5 inches wide demetions are THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP I AM FINALLY BUYING A SUB TO FINISH MY AUDIO SYSTEM AFTER 2 YEARS!!!!!

First i would like to say thanks to everyone that is competing this year and promoting their organization of choice, and also would like to thank people who are going out of their way to promote the industry as well. I also wanna thank anyone coming back into the lanes to give em hell, to do what they know best, and that is GETTING LOUD! And with this, I would like to thank ALMA for joining our small group here. Hope you enjoy your stay and hope you can give out some good info to the newer crowd on what you have seen and where you might forecast where we are all heading. Anyone wanting to learn more about Team Gates or ALMA can either post here or visit her website a…

I've got a 2.4 cube box tuned to 30 hz with a 3" aero port. The sub is a Fi Bl 12 getting about 750 watts off a Powerbass ASA1500.1. I went to comp last sunday and did a 136.8 at 44hz. If I made the port tuned to 35 hz, or even 38 hz, would my score go up? I'm not too worried about the competition in my class since I am sitting in 2nd place in the circuit, but it's always nice to be louder.

Subs:2, Sundown Audio E-12 v1, 400rms Amp: Hifonics 1700.1 wired to 1 ohm (so 850rms per sub) Box. Custom mustang vert box, .9 cubes per sub sealed. Right now the E-12s are reversed mounted to get the most usable airspace. Is there a subwoofer that would better handle the power such as the soundqubed HDS 200 or 300. Also, should I stuff the box with polyfill or something? I can't turn my volume up to even half on some songs before the subs start to distort or bottom out. So what can I do to improve my setup?