SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Hey everyone, Im in the process of building a new system in my 2002 WRX Sport Wagon. 1. Head unit: Pioneer Avic N1 2. Amp: Planet Audio BB175.4B RMS Power (2 ohms) 195 WRMS x 4 RMS Power (4 Ohms) 140 WRMS x 4 Bridged Power (4 Ohms) 345 WRMS x 2 Signal-To-noise Ratio 102 DB Frequency Response 20Hz - 20KHz Dimensions: 6-1/2" W x 2" H x 16-5/8" L FEATURES Variable Bass Boost (0 To +12DB) Switchable Input Sensitivity: 100mV-2V Or 2V-8V Tri-Mode Operation OBAC-1 Audio Enhancement System Continuously Variable 18DB/Octave High And Low Pass Crossovers Low Level Inputs And Output 3. Front Speakers: Kenwood KFC-P708 65 watts rms 4. Audio integrati…

Got bored looking at the new sub in the cardboard box from Fi and then i though duck tape and all hell broke loose!!!!

Well i installed it mid june(?), everything has worked great. Whenever i took people, they said my truck smells weird. I never really thought about it, but last weekend i drove a group to the football game (they chose the guy with an 11 mpg truck to drive 1.5 hours there, wtf lol) and took the box out for the ride up. When i put it back in a couple days later, i noticed the smell. I guess i just got used to it, and never noticed. I know it's not my sub, because it can smell funny when i get in it for the first time in a couple days, when nothing has been playing. I really can't describe it, it's a mixture of things. Wood would definitly be one smell, but could it be sili…

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

Hi, I finally decided on building my own HT subwoofer (50%HT and 50$ music) and I want to build the best I can of cours at a reasonnable price. I believe I should go with a 18" and planning on using a 7cu3 box. I also love massive bass and I would agree to have a little more power even if I loose a little quality, this is why I am going with a ported box. Now, is the Fi Q 18 would be my best bet? What about the TEAM serie? I don't know yet what frequency I will be using, somewhere arounf 30hz? For the box, here is the 18" shema : http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/44520-q-series-cut-sheets/ Thank for your help!

hey guys, im purchasing 2 12" Fi ssd Im looking at a ported box, I was just wondering if i need the divider in the middle of the box giving them their own little chamber? or can i just make one bigger port rather than 2 smaller ones ? also aeroport? Is it worth the try ?

Alright, so only 10 days after i built my first box iv decided that its no good an i need to build a new one. Currently i have my box only 5.5 cubes for my 18" BTL.. with it only being powered by 1500 watts this isnt the most efficient setup. For my new box, i was going to build it closer to 7.5 cubes, sub up, port up. Now what i wanted to do was have the port 5-6 inches out of the box so that i could flush mount it to the rear deck, then seal the whole thing off from the trunk. The box designer says for 32hz my port will be 28.75" long, 8.5" wide and 13.5" tall. Now could i simply 'slide' the port out 5-6 inches or would that effect the tuning? Sorry if thats a bit…

Hey I am just wanting to clarify that this box design meets the specs that I was told. This is for "1" 15" Fi BTL. It was designed to have 4 cuft. tuned to 35Hz. (Calculations done by BKOLFO4) The box with a slot port will need to be 17" tall in front, 14" tall in the rear, 31" wide, and 23" deep. The slot port will be 12.5" x 4". You will run it into the box until it is 4" from the back wall, and then turn and go 2" parallel to the back wall. (Designed by BKOLFO4) Like this (note the port dimensions are internal dimensions): Thanks in advance, Curt

Most people who made them have stopped. Who makes the best ones nowadays?

Hello am from mexico and I want to know if anyone can recommend that woofers used to compete in spl stret beat and uses a pair of 3000.1 sundown in a car renault R5 Thanks style_team 150+

ok this is what im working with, i have a 94 corolla 4dr the the subs will be in the trunk faceing the front. the box will be sealed off from the cab. im going to be useing 2-15pbx subs and 2-optidrive2000d (4000w @ 1ohm). the box will be 5cuft @35-38hz w/100sqin port area. ive hit high 130s db with just 1-8" sub w/around 250w on my meter (termlab) so i think i can do it ... so if anybody knows of someone who has hit 150 or over with a trunk setup have them holla at me, or you can just tell me what they did.... thanks jamie

what paints and primers should i use to paint a subwoofer box i want it to have a glossy black look thanks -Irvin

I have four massive p3000 amp. ( rated. 2660 @ 4ohms) I what to istall 4 btl 18s. Need the opt. Enclosue size.(ported ) sq is important. Spl would be nice. I would like to use 5 cube. Per,but have 10 cubes per.

Hello family, I'm working on a design for my new SPL ( only ) enclosure. My last few enclosures had lots of impedance rise and I would like this one not to. Are there so thing I can do to help keep the rise down? A little more info for you. Box 1.8cuft, port 6" Precision Port tuned to 44hz., 3/4 birch x2 baffle. The sub is a Kicker solo X 10 D1 any help would be great. Wise guys need not reply I have no time to play.

Alright, iv basically all over the map trying to consider what type of subs i wanted. Iv made up my mind now and i kind of wanted to know your opinion. I was thinking about going with two Fi 12"Q's, OR two Fi 15" Q's in a ported box, running off a Crescendo BC2000D. Now in order to eliminate trunk rattle, i was told sealing it off from the trunk and firing it forward was a good idea. The only problem is that i cant fold my rear seats down, now i do have the option of buying rear folding seats for about $300. I guess i dont really have a specific question.. just tell me what you think, any improvements or different ideas you think would work best. Since im…

In anyone's experience, does it matter if the elbow of an L-Port is angled or kept at 90*? As far as sound quality or output is concerned.. It would be easier to build boxes with a 90* angle like that found on the RE box calculator. I've always used an angled elbow, as shown below.. It just seems to make sense, but just wondering!

I don't fully understand Port Velocity. Using BBP I can figure the velocity but at what are the acceptable limits prior to encountering negative effects?

I have 2 SSA Evil 15s My box Outside Dimensions is 41W x 31H x 21D / Double Baffled all the way arournd 1.5" Birch My box Inside Dimensions is 38W x 28H x 18D I have 2 Braces 1.5" x 3.5" x 38" and 1.5" x 3.5" x 18" I need help with designing a port. I would like to be tuned to 28hz / As you can see my Port is too Small. I dont want to remake the box i would like to Remove the Port and Fix this Box. Box inside Cubic Feet Empty 11.08 Brace Cubic Feet .17 Both Subs Displacement / 2 x .22each = .44

Does anyone have experience with sub tunnels(diamond,hexagon, octagon) or manifold style boxes? I was wondering how they are for spl at low frequencies 25 to 30 hz(compared to a straight wall)?

Hey guys, I have my second Xcon and needing new enclosure but have been debating staying ported or going back to sealed (save cargo space) Anyway, I am first time user of Winisd and not sure if I did this correct so could someone let me know if it looks ok? How do you interpret this graph? To me it looks like ported is the way to go. (I modeled using two 15" Xcons at 1000rms each) Let me know if you need any additional info about my setup...believe my SUV cabin gain peaks @ 49 Hz.

I need to build a slanted box and obviously the port is going to need bending. Should I go with a labyrinth port or an l-shaped port ? How do I calculate the lenght of the port, because the top part of it is going to be shorter than the bottom. Should I average the lengths ? A couple pictures might help... To my understanding that would be an overall length of ~40cm. Am I right or am I terribly wrong ?

Alright guys i'm in the market for a system ( my first ) I have a 98 Z-71 EXT Cab so i have more room than needed. I'm wanting 2 fi btl 15s & 2 saz3000d's or 2 1500ds.....the problem i'm having is idk how to build a box lol Nor do i know what kind of wiring to get, if anybody can help me please help

my box is 9.0cf net with 120'' of port for everday what i need is a port for spl this is in my ford explorer 4door i am runing 2--15''subs on 1400//1600ea rms and how would i do this do i make a port that i can take out and put the spl port in are what//// what is the best way to do a sq//spl port setup any help would be nice thanks alot

How do you guys carpet your boxes? I am going to be carpeting on saturday and was wondering what you guys think is the best/easiest way to do it.

i had a post earlier about this when i planned on making my sub box. however... i made the box bigger to 5 CuFt now and im curious if i could still be ok with (3) 4" aero ports instead of ordering up one more? :thanx: