SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I decided to finally sack up and start planning a blow through. I just can't find anything around the web that actually explains. I really want to use aero ports. Do you think, if I sent two aero ports through the bed, and into the cab, that would be sufficient? I'd like to cut the smallest holes possible. Although I said before that I sacked up, I'm still pretty scared about cutting up my relatively new truck =). So, anyone have personal experience, pictures, or even tutorials? Thanks OH. Before I forget, My goals are to sound good, but have a really nice side of spl on the side. Just a daily ground pounder that sounds good,. I'm still trying to decide on which subs, bu…

posted by ohjay is he a hater or did he just get a shitty box Bah, you don't want the POS box that comes with them, you're better off with the prefab boxes. I have one that was built by Kevin and the baffle flops like a fish out of water with 175 watt rms subs.

Aight, so I'm looking to buy a box for my 15" fi bl, since I cant find anyone to build it for me locally, cant get the dimensions, and cant figure it out myself lmao. Was wondering if any of you guys have heard of Shipsound.com? Their boxes are the size im looking for (the 4.3cf in particular), but their prices seem to good to be true, most of them are under $100. Just dont know what they are tuned to either. Heres the link, - ShipSound.com If they are indeed legit, I'm definitely buying through here.

Well a few questions here. Would you guys mount your amps to the back of your seats if you could? Why or why not? Second -- I tried mounting my small amp to the back of my seat but its at least 3/4 inch metal. We tried using a metal bit but it ended up wrecking it. Both my friend and I tried for a few minutes trying to trill one hole but couldn't get it to drill through.

I think the biggest thing that caused my van build to sink right away was my decision to place the front stage drivers in the ceiling. Right away everyone was angered and outraged that i would put such great drivers in such a terrible location. However, my point of view is that most drivers are placed in the doors...where the seat, floor, and human body block, deflect, absorb, and tamper with the sound in every way. If the drivers are down on the floor in kicks and down in the door, they are faced up to raise the sound stage. How is that different than putting them up high and facing them down? I am sure that it does make a huge difference, so if I was out strictly to com…

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Hello family, I'm working on a design for my new SPL ( only ) enclosure. My last few enclosures had lots of impedance rise and I would like this one not to. Are there so thing I can do to help keep the rise down? A little more info for you. Box 1.8cuft, port 6" Precision Port tuned to 44hz., 3/4 birch x2 baffle. The sub is a Kicker solo X 10 D1 any help would be great. Wise guys need not reply I have no time to play.

Well i installed it mid june(?), everything has worked great. Whenever i took people, they said my truck smells weird. I never really thought about it, but last weekend i drove a group to the football game (they chose the guy with an 11 mpg truck to drive 1.5 hours there, wtf lol) and took the box out for the ride up. When i put it back in a couple days later, i noticed the smell. I guess i just got used to it, and never noticed. I know it's not my sub, because it can smell funny when i get in it for the first time in a couple days, when nothing has been playing. I really can't describe it, it's a mixture of things. Wood would definitly be one smell, but could it be sili…

Ok, well My trunk openings are garbage, my trunk is HUGE but, I can't get a box inside the trunk from the rear or from the back seats. So, my only 2 solutions are this. 1.) I lay down plastic so I don't get anything in the back of my car, And I pre-drill the screw holes and put the box together while it is in the trunk. Only problem i see with this really, is the internal piece for the slotted port. 2.) I build the box split down the center, having a top half and a bottom half, which would be Biscuit jointed or using dowels and thenglued together in the trunk, and then over the joint external strips would be screwed into place to hold the joint together. Both of these are…

i should have the money soon for the zcon 15 so i want to start getting ideas and thoughts on a box size for the sub. im putting it in my '95 ranger. for electric, i have a iraggi 260amp alternator, big 3, shuriken bt60 bat. and all 0 gauge wiring. i have a audioque 3500.1 that i will be running at 2 ohm (should have 2000watts which is plenty for 1 zcon 15) reason being is that it will be much easier on my electrical, and easier on the amp as well. im more for SQ on this build for those wondering. i love the low lowsss haha. i havent found any box recommendations so im looking for a bit of help. any is appreciated!

Does anyone have experience with sub tunnels(diamond,hexagon, octagon) or manifold style boxes? I was wondering how they are for spl at low frequencies 25 to 30 hz(compared to a straight wall)?

I'm not very good with box designs but what do you, and by you I mean people that know about this stuff, think of running 1 SSA DCON in at roughly 2.5- 3ft^3 box with a passive radiator??? I like the idea and it would solve a few issues for me, but Im not shure how it would sound. I know thats a pretty big box for a DCON so what would the consequenses be?? This would be in a foward firing box in an 02 ext cab GMC sierra running at about 400watts. I know nothing about passive radiators except that there supposed to act kinda like ports, I think, so any help with tunning or suggesting a specific radiator would be appriciated.

I suck at google sketch. Can someone help me? I know the dimensions but I would like to see it in 3D. Width, 38 inches Height, 18 inches Top Depth, 10 inches Bottom Depth, 18 inches This is for a 15 inch sub. The sub will be mounted on the angled panel. I am using two 4 inch aero ports that will be mounted on the top 10x38 panel.

I know that the guys in Potsdam at Northern Music & Video did 4 winter shows this year, but I was just wondering if anyone was going to do that again this year, or are they going to try to kind of synchonize them with the other shops in the area that are going to be putting on shows?? I mean I know the guys at NM&V will put on their shows, I am sure that Ultimate Edge will do their shows again next season, I know that peteyglad and myself will be doing shows in conjunction with Happy Ear nest year. Just wondering if anyone was doing the winter shows again.

I've been steadily trying to find the best way to mount ordinary PVC pipe in a box. I looked at lowes and found these "Closet Flanges". They Fit on the inside or outside of the PVC (depending on size, in my case, the inside of a 4" pvc). The flanges have a, well.. flange on the outside with 4 screw holes that could be used for mounting. I think this would work perfectly, except when the flange is inserted into the pipe, it's about 1/8" thick and reduces the diamater of the end of the pipe to about 3.75". Is this enough to alter the affects of the port? The decrease in diameter is only about 1-1.5" long, then it flares back out to 4". What are you guys opinion? Here's a li…

Right now I have a 2.2cubes @ 32hz with 34.50sq.in. of port area with 1100rms for my daily driver. I want to build a pure spl box and a pure sq box before the winter comes. I have 34inches in width and 13inches in hieght. I need to know the tunning, port area, and cubes for each enclosure. I heard spl enclosures should be small and have alot of port area. I'm not sure what kind of boxes I should build so i'd figure i'd ask here since noone knows the icon better than you guys, Thankz.

Got bored looking at the new sub in the cardboard box from Fi and then i though duck tape and all hell broke loose!!!!

In my last design in my hatchback, i had 2 12s off of 4,400w of power and a local team in my area was bracing the outside of my car and let me know that they could feel air seeping through the seal of my sunroof. Also, the sunroof was flexing pretty good which isn't good either for SPL. I am currently building a wall so it will REALLY flex now with lots and lots of air seepage... So, hehe, what do i do? The only thing i could think of is stick as many towels or shirts in between the glass and sliding door as possible but this is a temporary solution only in the lanes. For longterm bracing, what should i do?

For Starters it will be going in a 2004 Chevy Tahoe. My demensions i would like to stay in are:30Dx47Wx27H. Box will be for 2 18 inch DSS Ethos powered by a Soundqubed 3500.1 5cft net for each sub tuned to 32 hertz. I wanna do Subs Up Port back and havent decided if i want to go with aeros or a traditional slot port design. Which would be easier for a first time box builder? Included some photos of "my hoe". Thanks in advance for the help guys!!!!

I started to notice my sub was sounding a little weird today, so i check my box to make sure everything was ok, but it wasnt! i must have a leak in my trunk seal, because my box was soaked with water. booo. but anyways, i will be building a new box after i fix the leaks, and i need some advice on a different box setup. MY box was about 5 cubes after sub and brace displacement, tuned to 27hz. (sub/port back). I wasnt really impressed with the output at lower frequencies, and the overall output from the setup. (ss rl-p 18, aq2200d) Can anyone suggest a different design that can maximize the overall output? It's in a 1990 lincoln towncar. Thanks!

its for to 10's

I picked up a btl d2 for 250 tonight, and have it in 4 cubes at 32 hz. I need a box to really let it shine. I was thinking 8cubes @ 30hz. I am unsure of how much port to have though. Most likely a slot. My question is what is a good rule of thumb to go by for port area? I've heard mixed things about the 12-16in/cube rule.

Here is my install, pics of my zapco amp and ss componets to come excuse the 1 yellow re logo i have 2 more to put on

so in torres i put a 23.5" length into the calcs. this gives me a 35.07hz tune with a port dimension of 23.5X4.75" and 7.07 cubic. the physical port length is 17.25 according to torres. i need to verify what my port actually is and i feel a bit confused by the measuring. if i measure the port down teh center wich is how i understand the correct measurement to me then i get 20 and 3/8" in length, then i measure horizontally to the inside of the MDF sheet wich is 3 and 1/8". so that makes the port 23.5" long down the center. if i measure on the face of the wood itself i get 18.75" long and accounting for 3/4" thickness of the port itself. on top of that it makes it 2.375…

this is the box i decided to make for my 2 sa12's am i ready to cut it out or is there anything else i need to do? and does the cut list take the port into account? or is that a separate cut?