SPL & SQ / Fabrication

PPL, I'm in the process of building an all out SPL car. (SM 3-4) Right now, I have 2 AutoTek MM4000.1's, which will be connected to 2 ATOMIC APX18D2's. (wired@ 1 ohm per sub) Being a Kinetik dealer here in Japan, I can get the 2400 Monsters at a good price.. I used the calculator on the site and it said I needed 3 of these monsters! My goal is to get full power out of the amps(burps only!) How many batteries would you suggest? and before anyone suggest other batteries, I've already looked at: Odyssey 2150 NSB90 via Northstar and Optima g31 Yellow tops all comments are but experence is wanted holla when ya can TIA Gavin (MERRY CHRISTMAS AND a early Happy NEW YEAR …

I'm planning on securing my sub box to my trunk using L brackets. I'm also putting in a plywood floor so I can mount amps/batteries/etc to it also. But my question is that, when using the L brackets on the box, do I just bolt straight through the side of the box? And if I ever move the box to another vehicle or change the arrangement, it will have a handful of holes in the side? Just seems odd. Is this the right was to do it though?

Like the title says, im building a new speakerbag. The fun of causing mischief at the mall and walmart n stuff has disappeared, I want this one for something easily movable, for bragging rights, but mostly as my room system. The backpack aspect makes it more fun =) I am purchasing 12 bazooka OEM 5" subwoofer/midbass drivers, and three 20wrms x2ch Class T amps. I have my two previous batteries (12v Motorcyle battery, 12.5v modem battery) to power the amps, they run on 12v. I have four 5.25" mid/highs speakers already, and will add foam baffles to finish those off If i can work them in. I'm thinking (8) 5's isobaric, sealed, w/ polyfill, in .5cuft. I'm not really looking f…

i have 2 level 4 xl's in my trunk in a 9 cube box and its tuned to around 32 or 33 hurtz and i was wondering if anyone had song songs that would go with that tune? i know money man hits hard run quickly is insanely low just love that feeling

I am just wondering a little about amplifers and competition...... this makes me think because the wattage output of amplifers on the normal consumer market, is growing exponentially fast, for example a few years ago the Earthquake D2 was one of only a few amplifers that could be had for a not so bad price and was doing well over 2000 watts.... I am curious more about this in the purpose of street classes where 12volts and only one battery is allowed now Orion, Kicker, Hifonics, MMATS, PowerBass, American Bass, SPL Dynamics, Harrison Labs, Tru Technologies, Phoenix Gold, Zapco, Cadence, Rockford Fosgate, US Amps (the list goes way on) all make or sell a amplifer model tha…

i will be purchasing either an IA DP 15D1 or an IA judge 15D1 and i would like to know a box recommendation for it and what tune would be good since there are no specs on here and their website. the other question is i want to fill the whole trunk with the box amp and second battery/ultracap i notice i will have a very tiny gap with the port facing the back(the trunk lid not the inside) for the ports to push air so i was going to do port and sub face up, just curious to know how much db i will lose from doing that instead of port back sub back or sub up

I was wondering if you could send me the exact dimensions, that would be the best for the 12" BTL that I just bought from you tuned to 32HZ? The biggest size box that fits in the trunk of my Chrysler 300 is 32"wide by 35"long by 15"tall, that is the biggest size box that we can fit in there. If you could help me out that would be great.

I want to tune low for my nightshade 18. How big should the box be after displacements? Port area? Tuning? Thanks!

On bandpass enclosures, specifically 4th order for the moment, but I will be messing with 6th order later. I am always re-reading the diysubwoofers page. If anyone can reccomend books, sites, etc.... it would be great. Also an general rules of thumb too.

When building a box inside the trunk whats the best way to start? im getting a box pre designed with all the cuts i just need to assemble the box inside the trunk

What do you guys think of the design? Its for a DC lvl 4 12'' sub How would I factor in a kerfed port to the design??? If the kerf is secured as an external portion of the port, will it affect tuning or require a change in design anywhere? Specs come to: -2 cubic feet before subs displacement -32.5hz tuning -36.25 sq inches of port area

Hey guys i came up with a design i just want to know if i did this right let me know its 4.4 cubes not counting port area and its 40 hz can somebody double check this and confirm what i did was right thanks

sup planning on entering in my first spl comp. in Roanoke Va. Mar.22. Was reading the rules and got somewhat stuck on the part about the fuse requirements. I'm using a 200amp circuit breaker, do i need to install a fuse in its place to enter. Will be running a saz-1500d on 2 12" lvl4 d1, also would be considered AS1 or AS2. Hope to meet some of you there. Styllikeitloud

My plan is to use 3 fans as a just in case precaution the way how i am making my new floor in my car to house my amps. I will be contacting a couple companies tomorrow but before that time comes, lets see if anyone knows this- Can pc case fans be used in my car? I ask this because of the following- All these case fans i'm looking at are rated as follows- Rated voltage= 12v Starting voltage= 6v (there is only 2 lines on the fan, +12v and -12v so 6v gots me lost... Anyways, i do not know the voltage tolerance of pc case fans... My voltage runs at 14.9v. PSUs typically are set to a max of 10% + or - on any voltage line before they shut down. This means a pc fan could never …

Ok, so now I'm hooked. I have the 2 12" zcon's in and the 2500d. Now I want more. Have an eye on a ns-1. What will I need to do for a competition box? Keep in mind that I do have a s-10 extended cab 3 door and it is a daily driver that I want to make into a competition truck. Current box is supposedly 4.75^3 at 36hz? I think the hz is correct. Have to double check. It was designed by ram-designs. It's a angled back or trapezoid style box. Top is 14x43, bottom is 20x43 and it is 18 tall. I come uP with 5.4^3 after sub displacement. What do I need to do? What is the difference in a comp box vs a ported box?

ok a couple of months ago i had woodlawn cabinetry build an ensclure for the subs that i thought i was going to use. well like a couple of weeks ago it arrived. and i really like it but the subs i had told him i was going to use i no longer want to use. so i figured that if the subs that i wind up using have a smaller displacement then the ones i was going to use then the port would be tuned a little lower and vise versa for bigger. now am i wrong and the ensclure is a 4.5 c^3 tuned to 33hz after displacement, common chambered for 2 12" ICONS. i want to use either 2 eclipse sw7200 or 2 12" aa aresanals powered by a sae1000d if u want to know.

I'm looking into building an enclosure that measures 34W (left to right) x 18.5D (back to front) x 14.5 in height. The speaker is going to sit on top, port firing back. This is an L port design. The port will be 3 inches wide. My question is, if I want to tune at 33Hz how long would the other part of the port have to be (the one that runs across the back of the box)? I used RE's calculator for my last box a few years ago and it couldn't catch the lows for nothing, so I know something is not accurate about that calculator. If someone could help me with this, I'd appreciate it.

i'm getting ready to wall of my car @ the b-pillar, w/ a series tuned 6th order bandpass for my 2 15's i'm hoping to be in the 150's w/ this setup. here is the plan for my wall, and a pic of the old setup.....(except i'm running soundstream dbx 15's, not the RL-p's) what do you think???

hey guys...just wondering what u guys would recommend to use or have used to keep your box from sliding around? i have a trunk car so mine just moves all over the place...? velcro? l-shaped metal corner brackets? open to ideas...

Sorry for the long post. I just bought a pair of Beals Bros 8" midbass drivers. I have no specs on them. I know you are probably saying to yourself, why would he buy them if he doesnt know anything about them. Well they were cheap and in great shape. Now on the the questions. As many of you know I am currently running a set of CDT HD-62 pushed by a Memphis 16-mc300 ~150x2@4ohm (depending on voltage) ~240x2@2ohm ( " " " ) Here is where the questions start. The Beals is 2 ohm nominal and the HDs are 4ohm. that would make the final load 6ohm for series ( not enough) or 1.3ohm for parallel ( too low). I have heard that lower impedance=more distorti…

Little problems nothing serious. Built enclousure for some 18inchrolling zcons limited on space but couldnt pass the offer up on some z's. Box is small for ported box and tuned high with a smallamount of port are, basically if you could mess a box up and screw yourself over in output this is the box. 180inchs of port area withc4.5cubes per 18 tuned at 40hz not that happy with the output even on a .5ohm load on a sendo with electrical back it up. My question iss would i see a day and night difference if i built a single 18 box the biggest i could build out of my space? Pics of the franksteinvbox xustom finish on it.

I'm thinking about going to a meca event and try and place....but wat class will I be in 2-18's, 4000watts, two 300 amp fuses( can go lower if need to) and I have no idea if I have a street Box or not...trying to start going to comps so I can rep these ETHOS

I was wondering how to build a ported box for 2 18" btl loaded each one in its own chamber for a 03 Yukon and how to tune it between 30 and 35 Hz. I'm looking get some serious bass. What are some dimensions I can use with the speakers facing up? I will be running them on two saz-3000d. Hello again I'm looking for spl in my 03 yukon. I am looking at running 2 Fi Btl 18" on 2 Saz-3000D amps in this amount of space. H 21" W 46.5 D 22-28". So what do you think? I need help with the box and port dimensions. Once I have an idea I will start the building. I need all the help I can get. Thanks

Why do you compete? Since I opened, I will let you all know why I compete. I compete to have fun and to represent. One of the main reasons why I compete is because of the gear I run. Back when i started, it was about fun and there were plenty of Orion competitors, now there is a few of us, and I doubt that none are as serious as I with the Orion equipment. That would be the main reason, to bring back the Orion name to the competition arena, make them the proud people they used to be. Many of you might not remember Orion back in the days when Wayne Harris used to work for them, or when you could see atleast 40 cars at finals with their equipment. Not only am I bringi…

I started to notice my sub was sounding a little weird today, so i check my box to make sure everything was ok, but it wasnt! i must have a leak in my trunk seal, because my box was soaked with water. booo. but anyways, i will be building a new box after i fix the leaks, and i need some advice on a different box setup. MY box was about 5 cubes after sub and brace displacement, tuned to 27hz. (sub/port back). I wasnt really impressed with the output at lower frequencies, and the overall output from the setup. (ss rl-p 18, aq2200d) Can anyone suggest a different design that can maximize the overall output? It's in a 1990 lincoln towncar. Thanks!