SPL & SQ / Fabrication

Well, because i will be removing the weight issue in my car soon, nothing stands in my way now for my next build so i need anyone's opinions on the strongest build u can think of. Any negative thoughts about any methods is 100% welcome as i don't want something that will fail. Here is one method i have been thinking about but remember, i'm looking for the best option(within costs, hehe, dont wanna spend several grand on an enclosure) Option1- Lay 2x4s on their side(so 3.5" thick) all the way around the car. Then inside of this chamber, lay 1 layer of 3\4" Oak inside. Install Angle Iron outside of the enclosure and weld 1\8" thick steel bars to all corners of the Angle Ir…

This is a box I am building for a friend. For an 8" Kicker L5, There is very minimal space in his Jeep TJ, so the height is pretty much no give for the size of the sub, even though it is an 8". This is the first box I have ever built before, so I know it may seem a bit rough in some parts, but I am working on it to make it look good for my buddy. If you guys have any comments about it to make it better, please let me know! after all i am only a beginner! Thanks! 0408001333.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306a.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket 0409001306b.jpg picture by jaketrials - Photobucket

This is about the best fiberglass walkthrough I've found. My plan thus far is to cut out some holes in the door panels, make some MDF speaker rings, mount them to the door panels with little metal brackets, spread some fabric over it, and put a few layers of resiny fiberglass cloth over it. Sand and repeat, sand again. Am I missing anything?

does it matter what side of an enclosure your port is located on ? my sub is mounted in a up fire position on one end and I WOULD LIKE TO no if it makes a difference if my port goes out the other end of my box just opposite of my sub basically firing at the door

Next weekend I will be starting a new box build and was hoping to get some help from yall on an enclosure design. I could probably do what I did last time, just use RE calc and Google Sketch to design. However, I hear too often that the RE calc is not very accurate and tuning can be very off. I want to build this box to last me a while, so I'd like to do it right the first time. - Subwoofers being used are 2 AudioQue SDC2.5 15" - Power will provided from a SAE-1200Dv2 @ 1ohm - I'm not the best wood worker, but i can get a simple box built. I've done one already. I have a Jigsaw to do the cutting. Not the best, but it works. - I will buy MDF from Lowes. - Build will be for…

What is the most accurate sub box calculator tuning and everything

Hey guys this is my first post! Seems like a great forum with knowledgeable members, so anyways... What is the best stuff to seal an enclosure with? Silicone? Caulking? Which type?

Dose any body have contact info for Fi audio I can not find a phone # for them to save my life and my e mails have gone unanswered

Which is better for box building liquid nail or wood glue? Any others you would suggest?? Thanks, Matt Cusack

I need help with an enclosure I'm building my enclosure is 2.51 cuft after displacement it will hold one fi Bl 12 ran off a T1000 amp I would like to tune it to 32 HRZ with what info I have come up with in order to tune it to 32 HRZ if I go with a 4"port 10.3" long it should be around 32HRz does this sound right my enclosure is 16" deep 54" long 9.5" tall in the front and 7.25" tall in the back it will be up fire and I would like to run the port off the front witch is the side that is 9.5" I'm working with very little room so I can not change the die mentions of the enclosure much if you have any suggestions on how to do this right please let me no add if …

Since my local box builder seems to think he needs $270 to build my sub box I decided to tackle it myself. I have been reading up on box building when I came across a forum that suggested making a box panel that sandwiched a layer of cork inbetween 2 layers of mdf. Another suggestion was to use sand inbetween 2 layers. As the latter isn't feasible, I am interested in the cork option since it is fairly cheep. I understand that the cork is supposed to help dampen the box. Has anyone utilized this practice? Or are they blowing smoke? They also suggested using dynamat instead of cork, but that seems a bit pricey.

I just got done applying SPL tiles to the outer shell and inner frame of the door. The door itself sounds a lot better but now i would like to prevent the door from flexing within reason. I have the idea of rolling the window all the way down so i can then make a form with cardboard in between the window and the outer shell of the door, then just fill it in with expanding foam. I'll do probably about 80% of the outer shell so it doesn't interfere with anything on the far ends of the door such as wiring or door locks, etc... As far as i know, besides that, i just gotta make sure i do not block the drain holes on the bottom of the door and i should be good, right? i've neve…

So I ordered a BTL 18 today, and I think I'm going to base my enclosure off the one for the XCON optimal one thats here on the site. It says that box is tuned for 30 hz. Fi recommends tuning to 32 hz for the BTL. I don't really figure that the 2 hz will make that much of a difference, but I could be wrong. What I'm planning on doing is putting the port on the other side of the box, so that the driver would be facing up towards the roof of the vehicle, and the port would be facing forwards, toward the front of the vehicle. My question is will putting the port on the wider side of the box, (25.25 in. vs 22 in.) put me closer or farther away from the 32 hz? Also, I'm plannin…

First qustion i no its pretty noob but to attach mdf together i predrill then add wood glue and screw in the predrilled holes correct. also i am trying to make my corners rounded where two piece of mdf are meeting also i got a ring so the sub would mount to and then i am going to attach it to the box so it will be flushed mounted do i do them as predrilling etc or do i need bracing heres a link to my build log so you can kinda see what i am working with My Nissan frontier build sorry about grammar and spelling been a long few days of fiberglassing

I will be soon upgrading my current sub and box setup in my F250. I am limited on space and think I can go 1.5cu without much issue or maybe even up to 2.cu if I add an extension piece. My goal here louder deeper harder hitting setup. Here is a pic of the space I can work with and my current box. 1 10in Fosgate p2 in .53 sealed. I can easily double the size of the current box or I can make almost like a L shaped box to utilize the lower section behind the pass side. Without using the the lower pass side I think I could do one that is (17in H.. 33in W.... 5in D1.....8in D2) this would be outside diameter and I will be using 3/4 MDF. This should be about perfect for o…

HI everyone. I come with another question. I know there are probably many variables but I was wondering if there is a general guideline as to when bracing is required for a sub box. Lets say for instance my sub is a 12 that requires a sealed 1 ft.cu. box with 1 inch mdf. It will be fed 1500 watts rms. Would I need to brace this box? does it make a difference if the box is sealed or ported? Thanks!

Ok so I am going to build my 3rd sub box and i want to know how to cut the bracings and that stuff. And how to port/tune you box. I am going to put it in a car and i want the sub facing upward and the port too. I do not want an L ported i want like square type one. My sub is a 12 Fi SSD. I want it to use half of the trunk but not be so tall just like an inch after the sub fits. But mainly i just want to learn how to do square ports. Any help plz.

Hey guys, I am asking for as much input here as I can get. I have everything I need...it's sunny outside..but I am at a hault. OK, I take it back... my HO alt from Iraggi was attempt delivery so i cant pick it up till tomorrow, my 4 AP30001D's should be here any day, my 50 foot spool of 0 gauge, a 40 pack of 0 gauge terminal rings...and Kicker should be shipping back two 4 channels soon as well. Otherwise, i have the van, I have the subs, I have the 3rd 4 channel, 3 AGM batteries..same as Deka Intimidator..I got lots of wood... 2"x6"x8' boards for bracing... gonna make X's inside of squares..should be solid. I have several sheets of 4'x8'x3/4" MDF... I have 4 Extremis 6.…

Okay so i'm planning on having a box built for 2 12"s and having the subs face the roof (see pic) I'm wondering if I have a top piece of wood above the subs, how that would affect the sound? The top piece of wood would be above the subs by a couple inches. This would allow me to put stuff on my box for storage (ex: my backpack...) Does this make sense?

Hello. I've got a BTL 12, the new model, with the spl gap, short coil and cooling and I'm looking for some ideas on a box volume I can use for burps and keep it mechanically safe. I had an old 1.3cf box laying around so I used that for some quick testing. The highest score with all testing was only 147dB on 3600w clamped watts. The actual power to the woofer will be a bit over 4000w once I get good battery. The goal is to score 150dB out of this single 12 and the small box is 3dB short. This is how the 1.3cf box looked at the end of the testing: I also tried all combinations of sub / port facing except both of them back. A max volume suggestion would be useful as I …

Any advice on doing an external port, like how to attach it and are there any negatives to doing this? Im planning on getting 2 sa-8's and putting them under the back seat of my 03 extended cab 1500. I will have the port coming out the side of the box under the seat as well. I plan on making it so I can remove the port to exchange with others, really just to see the difference and also because of size restictions. Box will be 2 cubes after sub displacement, so I will probably do a 5"x6" port 32.5 inches long for 33hz tuning and another one fro 38 or 40 hz. Thanks for any input guys.

I'm well aware of the complexity (or so it might seem for some) involved in creating a ported enclosure built to specs. I'm also aware of situations where different subs have been dropped right in to a ported box previously housing another sub and working well. With that being the case I was wondering how bad a prefab box like this one I stumbled across on ebay could possibly be. I'm absolutely prepaired to pay for a properly made custom box but was just curious a) if anyones had any experience and b) if this is just a COMPLETELY bad idea. Heres the link to a prefab 4 cu ft ported box tuned to 32 hz (almost exactly what I'd be getting custom made): 15" CUSTOM-PORTED MDF S…

Ok I'm a newb so this is prob dumb question but I want to make a costome headunit adaptor plate and I have abs, so I was wondering how to put togethor the two pieces

I have never done a wall before, and i am really interested in them. If its not too much trouble i was wondering if i could get schooled on them -- how to prep a truck for a wall, the do's and dont's, bracing, etc. etc. etc. I would like to become confident before going balls deep into this build and I don't want to be slapped in the face by how little i know half way into the build, ALSO i want to know what i am getting myself into before i start cutting. (ported, 10-20 cubes) i seen the build a wall build and it had a SHIT load of 2x4s.. would i have to do this to my truck? The truck will be a 1986 GMC Sonoma (S15) ext cab and the equipment is 2 or 3 (depending on how …

I am building an enclosure for a 08 chevy crew cab I'm installing 1 fi bl 12 Im not sure what size port to use or how to tune it to the specs im going for my enclosure is 11"h 45.5"w 16"d rear height is 8.25" I am firing it up and plan to face the port to the front I wood like to tune it to 34 Hrz I am powering it by 1 T1000 fosgate with a 4 farad capacitor my box is 2.51 cuft minus woofer displacement can any one help me if you need anymore info please let me no I am knew at this so please bare with me