SPL & SQ / Fabrication

could someone please double check these numbers. I know this box is small but that is all i have to work with and its still at the minimum.

i have two idq12's in a 1.7 cubic sealed box powered by one dls A6(875@2ohm-1200@1ohm). i listen to mostly metal so i need the sub to be able to keep up with the fast double kick-drum. the problem with my set-up is i can keep up with the beat but lack lowend. i took out my xtant 1000/1 think it was the subsonic filter frequency blocking low notes. it must be the box- what is the best application for a truck

I was wondering if you could send me the exact dimensions, that would be the best for the 12" BTL that I just bought from you tuned to 32HZ? The biggest size box that fits in the trunk of my Chrysler 300 is 32"wide by 35"long by 15"tall, that is the biggest size box that we can fit in there. If you could help me out that would be great.

Wondering what numbers you guys are hitting with your XCON trunk cars?

Hi I need help making a spl/daily box for 4 15s, I'm going with subs ip port back and want it to be crazy loud, I have 3500 rms going to all of them how should I make the port and what to tune it to?

can I make a port in a shape of a L and still tune the box too 35 hz. your advise is need badly

This is going to sound awfully newbish, because...well it is. I see all over this forum and various others about what to tune a ported box to. Well it dawned on me a while back, what does it mean if you tune a box to, ah lets say 32 hz? Does that mean that the subwoofer can only play notes above this frequency, or what? Also what particular specification(s) point you in the right direction on what to tune the enclosure to (besides the obvious manufacturer's recommended boxes, as I see a lot of people that don't necessarily stick to what the company provides.) Please go easy on me, as I am really clueless when it comes to ported enclosures (as I personally like sealed …

Hi I am doing my best to avoid stupid pointless purchases with my summer build however the box Ive had built did not pass your guys inspection http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum/topic/58341-please-help-me-figure-out-port-tuning-did-i-get-screwed/ Current box: 34W X 14H X 24D outer dimensions Port: 4W X 12.5H X 12D (no L) (2) DD 2512C on (2) hifonics brz1200 @ 1ohm ea the only difference with the pics in the link above is that I have removed the slanted port divider I'm wondering if a "better" box would be the way to go I have no reason to think the box is performing poorly I'm currently on a mission for more power but Ive got alot of responses to my amp bu…

Im looking for a nice 1.7-1.5 cu ft sealed box for my 12" Xcon. It willl be powered by my SAZ-1500d. Any ideas for some nice sealed boxes on the internet?

So after seeing the new box I built for my future DCON's (ordered over two weeks ago) a freind of mine has recruited me to build him a box for a single old school (2001) Kicker c12vr. He wants a SQ build and could care less about output. The only problem I am seeing is that I can'ft find any specs on the sub. The manual I found for it is a little light on the T/S parameters so winISD isn't too helpful. So my question is, If I run a standard 2cuft box tuned to 32hz(seems to be a standard), would that have a somewhat flat responce curve(ignoring cabin gain and all that)? It seems to be a tried and proven tuning so If I strive for that, and being that he is new into car aud…

Hello, I was wondering whether it was possible to use two different port length on a same box: For example I need 31.5 inch of port length total for 2 x 3" round ports. Can I make one 14" and the other 17.5"??? It's just that it is quite difficult for me to fit those two ports inside the box, outside would be possible but aestethically wouldn't be good. Thanks guyz, Kelvin

Metered with SPL-LAB same song and I got a reading of 160.1 @36 hz in the port and 146 @48 hz in the cabin. Does this sound right for the difference in frequency readings? Or is the deeper bass getting trapped in the trunk? Let me know what you guys think, thanks.

My 12" ICON is coming in the mail today so I want to finalize a design before before having my buddy build it for me. What I want to know is if I have calculated everything correctly and will in fact end up with 2.3ft^3 at 32.5hz. Here's how I measured the port length. 19.2140 + 14.8723 + 1.375 = 35.312 The the12volt calculator says that this length gives me about 32.5hz. Did I design this correctly? Also, I just used the displacement listed on the product page which is .16. Does doing a double baffle affect this? Click here if you want to download my SketchUp design

Ok so since i have a trunk, and its a luxury car all of the bass is staying int he trunk. I cut a hole in the panel in the back and put a gril over it, and its loud enough in the cab, but i got and and listened to it yesterday and my treble is still killing my bass, i mean when you get out you can hear it but not like you should. I went back to the trunk and i could feel a nice breeze of air exscaping through the cracks. What to do, i was thinking of either cutting a bigger hole taking off the whole panel or taking out the back seat well trying to.

I have 4 12" RF Punch Z's in a sealed box. There are 4 different chambers in the box, one for each sub. (Approx 1 1/2 cuft each) I'm wanting to port this box to make it louder with PVC aero ports. My questions are: 1) Should I put a different port for each chamber/sub? or Should I take out the walls between each chamber and just port the whole box as one? 2) How big of PVC pipe will I need to effectively port the box? Id like the tuning to be as close to 30-35 hz as possible. Doesn't have to be an EXACT tuning 3) Where should I put the ports? Here's a couple pictures to help with what the box design is:

Currently running my 12" ICON in a 1.35 cu ft sealed enclosure. The car is a hatchback. While the sub itself sounds clean and puts out decent volume, I'm often wishing it hit the lower notes a bit better and was louder. Is anyone able to help me design a ported enclosure for this sub? I'm trying to keep the footprint of the enclosure as small as possible, but I understand it'll take more space than the sealed setup currently. This is the current setup: Untitled by riored4v, on Flickr Regarding the height, i can't really go much taller since this still allows me to use my hatch cover to keep everything out of eye sight. Its at 13.5" tall. Any help would be ap…

i dont know if this is the right section but i was wondering whats a good filler to cover screw holes on the outside of an enclosure before painting the enclosure? i made a box out of birch. i want to have a high gloss finish after i paint it with no screws showing. thanks

had today off, ran up to the shop... and did a 147.2. voltage drop was to about 11.5 or so, with just the optima of front, popped the 300A breaker. Kinetik 2400 came in yesterday, I really need to find somewhere to fit the damn thing in...

Yes, i've used a table saw before, before anyone asks lol. But never for a box with mdf. The table saws i've used have always been pretty big, like shop table saws. I recently borrowed a 10" table saw from a buddy who builds boxes with it, but it's small as hell. It's really small, especially for the box i'm making (the biggest sides are 39.5"x21"). I even put tables on two sides, to help support the wood as it goes along the blade. I used a circular saw to make the mdf as small as possible for the saw, cutting the 4x8 in (about) half. Everytime i take a piece across, it kicksback pretty bad. Now i know i'm not the first person to use a small table saw for a big project,…

alrighhtttyy guys.... i got a tricky build that i need some help with. I'm putting two SPL-15s in the trunk of a 01 chrysler sebring sedan. The subs are going to front firing and im just going to keep the back seats down (when i put them up for people to sit in them i will just cut the subs off). The trunk is pretty flat and the box should be pretty easy to load in from the car with the seats folded down. I have L29 x W34 x H18 to work with, Im guessing both subs will be put in one chamber. Im open to either slot or tube ports, just need help coming up with a design. All of the parameters are here. I appreciate it alot and please help a fellow forumer out =]

I have a crown xls 1000, puts out 1100 watts bridged, had two 15s in room, sold them. Just ordered a 12" Icon. I would like to build a ported Enclosure. Can anyone help?

This is my most recent sub enclosure, I designed and painted it. Looks way better in person too. Tell me what you guys think of it. Thanks.

i will be running 4 skar 10's, the box will be in an extended cab dodge dakota, the rough dimensions of the box will be 48" wide, 26" tall, and 15" deep, subs will be on top. now i know if the subs were on the front pannel i would double baffle because of the amount of surface area there is on that panel, but if the panel the subs are on is only 48"x15" would i really need a double baffle? i mean of course i will brace is with allthread or wooden dowels, but i dont want to double baffle if i dont need to, mainly becase that would require me buying an additional 4x8 sheet of mdf.

I want to know how to design my own bandpass enclosure. Can anyone link me to something to read? i wanna do 18s in my cut through but the box is going to have to be bandpass as my opening is only about 10x40. and i dont want someone to just design me one. i wanna know why the sealed chamber has to be this big and why the ported chamber has to that big and how to tune them and what not. i know its not an easy thing to grasp but you had to start somewhere... how are you guys designing them?

hey so is there any one here that can desgin for me a ported box. If you can design it, tell me and ill send message you the information for for demnsioins