SPL & SQ / Fabrication

I don't fully understand Port Velocity. Using BBP I can figure the velocity but at what are the acceptable limits prior to encountering negative effects?

As always, I have been running around with ideas for the time when I have the money to actually do something with them. I have a large trunk, however with an extremely small opening to get into the trunk, and so I have always had to restrict the size of any box i intend to build so that i can sqeeze it past that opening. So for my next idea... how would it sound to have a single downfiring 15" ssd in a sealed box? For now it would be recieving only 500 watts rms untill I could upgrade. It would be raised 4 inches off of a wooden base, in a 18"X18"X10.75" box (interior dimensions). I have never seen this done in a trunk so i'm curious about its effects. My goals are a "cl…

snoopdan uses pink panther insulation to seal around his box so it acts like a wall in his cherokee. I just got done building my box in my scion tc with 4 15s and i need to seal around it so it can act like a wall. I was gonna use pink panther but have 2nd thoughts because it states that it's purely a thermal barrier, not acoustic barrier. Is there any methods u guys use or can persuade me with facts as to continue to go with pink panther insulation or is there a better method?

ok so the car is a 98 Dodge Stratus. I have to have access to my spare tire and would prefer a removeable enclosure but thats probably not happening. What i have now are two boxes 3/4" MDF 3.13cubes each tuned to 36hz. i want something that'll look more custom and less amateur. I've considered finishing my boxes and what not but its really not worth it to me, i'd rather just toss the boxes (not actually throw away) and start with fiberglass. I'm pretty good with fiberglass but never tried it in cars/audio, i think i can manage though. what i really need from you all is ideas on how to make this look good, i'm wanting front firing subs like they do now, and my amps a…

I might be buying a jeep wrangler in 6 months after this semester of school. Currently I have a ssd15 and I was looking at the jeep and I don't think I can fit an optimal box for the 15 in there. I was brain storming and I came up with an idea. I would take the rear seats out and make a box for two 12's facing forward with a big old port in between them. And build a seat on top of the box. Now should I recone my 15 into a 12 and buy another? Or should I sell it and buy either 2 sa12's or 2 Fi x12's? I am going to run a precision power bk1300.1D. And a set of Polk db 6.5 components off a power bass xax(400.2?) 100rms at 2 channels. All help and advice is much appreciated. …

i designed a new banner for 08' i used car show twice ill fixx it later

I am ready to finish my box this weekend for my BTL but have a few questions first. When I attach the baffle with the second piece, will the port tuning be changed at all? The top will not be flush after I add the second piece. Ive been looking in the build logs and wherever I can to see if this is what everybody else does. No luck so far. I know its only one side of the port but I want to get it right and not waste wood. Hopefully you guys understand what I am trying to say. I bought like a 2x2 stick for the bracing as it was cheaper than the closet poles. Can I shave off the corners so there isnt such a big edge or should I just go get closet poles? This wont be my fin…

Hey guys. Its time to try something new. Not sure what will happen to the sound if i tune my box higher or make it larger. I'm 1.5^3 tuned to 28hz now. love the flat response curve and helps the sub sound really low. What would happen to sq if I make the enclosure larger like 2.0^3 and/or tune higher? TIA

think this is a good stasrt for a moderate sq set up i have a kenwood 6019 indash focal 165 6.5 v2 pollyglass componants focal 6.5 pollyglass 2 way coax. kicker zx1000.1 kicker 350.4 an 2 re se 12's subs. im thinking of swaping amps out to something more powerful but is this a good start?

If I had (4) 6 1/2's and I went to (3) 8's, how much louder would I be?

When drilling into the mdf boards, it seems to split every time when i am screwing in i think there deck screws... Can anyone help me out and tell me what kind of screws to get for this project! Thanks, Curt

How do you find or know your vehicles peak frequency? And how much high or lower than that should you tune you box for spl applications? I drive a 06 silverado extended cab.

I have plenty of room for my overall volume, but fitting 3 10's and a port on the face is my challenge. I am going to have a box of around 3.25-3.75 ft^3 tuned to around 35. I was going for around 60 in^2 port area, my inside dimension is going to be 30.5 so that leaves me with a port that is 2" tall by 30.5" wide. Ive already done the math and have the depth on the box to easily fit the port length, but is there any reasons against a port of this shape? I thought about using about 4-5 4 inch round ports, which is either 48 or 60 in^2, but with either route I need to have ports longer than will fit inside the box, and I will not run an exterior port because this is my dai…

Hi all, A friend of mine has a 15" xcon DVC1 in a 3.7 cu ft box (32 Hz tuning, flared port)Look at my avatar : it's his box !! He uses 2 Sundown saz 1000 d amps strapped to run the sub. Now, he wants another xcon 15 and 1 more saz 1000 (he just bought mine ). Here is the question : What would you do ? Build another same box for the second xcon, or build a new box for 2 xcons ? He is the box builder, so there is no problem to build boxes. What are the pros and cons of your choices ? Thanks for your help !!! (He has room in the car, no backseats, he knows he has to upgrade the electrical system for more than 4000 watts !)

i had a thread a while ago that had a download to a box tuning calculator that i made. i've since upgraded it hardcore and would like to repost it. i cant edit my original post in the other thread which is why i'm making a new one. also since i cant edit my original post to update it, i'm linking it to SMD where the original thread is to download from. that way i can update that one which will in turn update the link to the download from here and still allow comments and questions on this forum (i hope that's all ok). if a mod would like, the other thread can be deleted if they find it to prevent any confusion. that one is pretty old tho, so probably buried tho i found it…

2 12" type r's 1000wrms Sorry about crappy pic, its with the cell phone.

So i know you can tune a box to a certain hz and specific dimensions for a squared ported/sealed box But, Is it at all possible to calculate and tune a fiberglass piece that you make to mount your subs on the side of the car or anything? ive read many tutorials on how to fiberglass but nothing really mentions anything about proper dimensions and what not for a sub. so am i sacrificing quality and proper sound for looks by fiberglassing?

Ok so my 10" JLW3v2 blew for no reason that i could tell the other day. I have it powered with the JL 250/1 monoblock I bought the sub used on ebay a while ago and never tested both voice coils so I think one of them may have been bad because no wires were loose when I opened up the box, but anyway, enough about that sub. Now I want a new sub and the Boston Acoustics G210-4 caught my eye. I like how it sounds tight and clean and it seems like it'll match my amp well w/ a max RMS of 300 from the sub. My problem is my current box is .71 cubic feet and on Boston's website and Crutchfield it says the sub wants .5 cubic ft (The calculation of the dimensions on their spec s…

I have a box in my Mustang that's 2.5 ft^3 tuned to 32 Hz that's used fo my 12" Mag D2. If I just swtich out the Mag D2 with a 12" Fi Q, would the tuning still be 32 Hz, or am I missing something?

Hello guys, I used to get designs from Ram, but he's no longer in business. Who can help me ? I need a design for a new box. The sub is an Orion HCCA (latest one, 2500 w rms). Tha car is a 206 Peugeot, it's small hatchback car. Ampifier : Crescendo BC 2000 Max dimensions : 35 x 40 x 90 cm 13.78" x 15.74" x 35.43" or 13" 3/4 x 15" 3/4 x 35" 2/5 I want a L port, with a 34 Hz tuning. Goal is loud, musical, not only focus on the lows. It's not a burp setup at all. Sub up, port up. Please. I'm in a hurry !

i sold my crx i coudnt keep fixing it anymore my transmission went out i have bought the 18 xcon when they were on sale used for $300 and i now financed a 2003 acura cl!!! i miss my rex and now i cant use my 18 xcon i need help deciding new system i dont wanna tear my new car up but i want it to be loud and have some sq without tearin it up

I have a friend that wants a box built for a 8" sub. I have some 1/2" MDF that I could make it out of. The box will be sealed and not have a lot of flat surface (maybe even some glassing involved to make it fit). Would this be a good idea? I'm not sure about the thickness of the MDF. The sub will only be seeing about 200rms or so.

Which enclosure do you prefer and give your reasons for sayin so. Just trying to see who likes what type of enclosure the best. Me i am kinda in between you can get a good all around sound with sealed, given enough power to run push it. I used to use a lot of sealed boxes because I really didnt have the room for ported boxes given the subs i was usin. Now I have switched to ported since subs now work in ported enclosures the size of what the old sealed subs used to work in. Also which one do you think handles ungodly amounts of power better.

im going to make a box for a fi bl 15 and punched the numbers in the re box calc. and the size and hz was way off what the picture says. i mite just be being paranoid but id like to know for sure b4 i go spending money on wood for a box that isnt what i want...u know. thnx in advance ~Bill

I lined my box with fiber glass and mat, and it came out very bumpy, tried to smooth it out and did an ok job at removing some. My question is how smooth does it have to be, does it affect the over all sound pressure.