SPL & SQ / Fabrication

well, looks like rattlebox317 will be running a wmd2 12" this spring. tuned @ 32 hz. little over 42"sq.in. of port area. 4.5 cubes gross, with a internal volume of 2.53 cubes net. double baffle, .75 mdf . will be rear firing in a 2000 olds alero trunk. dd setup, rap / hip hop. still playing with a couple of amp options. will zero in on that real soon.

ok so im ordering a z15 hopefully tomorrow if my dam taxes show up and i would like to have the box built and bolted in my car b4 the sub arrives. now my question is should i go sealed or ported to move a ton of air and have alot of feel to it? btw its going in the backseat of a 76 caprice. and the next thing how can i get box dimension? sealed wouldnt be hard to figuer out but if i should go ported ill need some assistance. recomended sealed is 2.5 cubed and ported is 3.5 cubed tuned to 30 hz. thanx in advance for any help

Im going to have a custom box made soon and was wondering what is the difference between a slot port and a kerffed style port? Well there be any difference in bass?

My buddy is trying to put a 18" fi ssd fully loaded in the back of his eagle summit van.. He has about 1200 watt rms of power to run the sub.. There is two different set of max dimensions we can use ( it all depends on how tall the box will actually be. The first set is a tall narrow box and our max dimensions are 27 1/4 tall X 39 wide X 15 Deep. And the other set is 20 1/2 deep X 39 wide X 21 tall. Any help would be wonderful... Would really like start build on box as soon as we can.. Also I would like it ported wit a tune right around 32 hz. And I not sure wat would sound best wit the speaker direction and port direction so any advice is wonderful.

The site lists 1.8 cu.ft. for the IXL 12 SL. I am assuming this is for either home or car use, so would a box approximately 1.52 ft3 with pollyfill be adequate? More specifically my dimensions are: 17"x15.5" top/bottom 15.5"x11.5" r-side/l-side/inner baffle 17"x13" front/back internal: 15.5"x14.75"x11.5" This is attempt number 2 for a box. I needed some mdf for door speaker baffles and had to buy a whole sheet so I figured out all the numbers for a 1.35 cu.ft. box because thats what i remebered and had it cut at lowes today (actually I have enough for 2 boxes that size). I got home to make sure i remembered right, and of course 1.35 is for the icon, the other sub I was t…

I would Love to hear from a few people that have used Luxury liner pro. I have 4 sheets of LLP. I bought the LLP with the plans of installing on the front floors and under the front door panels. If I have any left I plan on the front of the rear wheel wells. The box will be forward firing with the trunck sealed off. I have already dampenered the inside of the car. My goals are to lower the highway road noise and just to lower the noise floor of the car. I realize every application is differant but would like to hear what results and experiences some people have had with the LLP. I have used the search function with no luck and also went to the SS forum but them guys a…

does any one know of a box building program that works with apple computers ? all that i have found are for windows

This is kind of how I want my box we will be adding some surprised but this is the basics of it. Ok for the car audio techs. What is the specs to make this port tuned at 30hz-35hz L ( ) W ( ) H ( ) I know my installer will know, but I just want to find out for myself. Oh yeah could you also let me know how you got your answer I want to learn as I go.

The goal of this topic is to discuss the possible effects fiberglassing the inside of a subwoofer enclosure has on the sound? I am currently building my enclosure and am using fiberglass to make the box more ridged, prevent air leaks, prevent flexing, raise the boxes failure point of the box, and I just like building things heavy duty. I honestly never thought about the fiberglass effecting the sound until Pork Chop brought it up last night. I used the search function but did not find anything about effects on sound from fiberglassing an enclosure. I would like to hear some opinions about this from people that have experience with a fiberglassed sub box. I would also …

This kind of goes with myths and lies. Here I am trying to figure out why some insist on a port box for spl? Is there a specific reason why? Some pros and Cons I know of for ported verses transmission lines. Ported: High spl output= pro High x max =con Loud bass output. Pro Box size= pro or con Transmission lines: Loud bass output below 70 hertz. = pro Reduced x-max =pro High spl output the same as a ported. = pro Large boxes =con The reason I see the transmission line is better is x max is reduced so when you add 8,000 watt burp to a 2,500 watts rms sub the tinsel leads do not come apart as easily. The t lines can be tuned the same as a ported for high outp…

i know pretty much nothing about mids and highs just to throw that out there. Is there a big enough difference between running mids/highs on 2 ohms vs 4 ohms that is actually worth sacrificing the power to run @ 4 ohms? or is 2 ohms going to be good enough for a daily driver? edit: by the way if anyone has a good place to educate myself on mids/highs that would be greatly appreciated.

right now my box is subs up, port back 20 cubes before subs and port with about 200+square inches of port tuned to 33hz, designed by chris at fishercustoms. It picks up lows and pretty loud, only metered before i built this box and was 149 on tl and did 151.7 on audiocontrol meter at local show. Now with this box, it sounds louder to ear, but havent metered yet. Problems now are i have bought 2 boxes of stinger roadkill bulk, did roof, doors and back door. It doesnt rattle bad, the back glass is terrible, but everytime i open back door, metal braces or pieces of the lock and handle are broken and fallin off. LOL. I got guy i work with to tig weld a rip in back door alread…

Im gonna be getting my 15" custom juggernaut back from PSI soon and i was gonna build a reg ported box 4.5 cu 35 hz first, but i am kinda dabbling with the idea of a 4th order. ive tried looking up some info but so far i just have spent alot of time and still dont know that much about them. any opinions, advice or tips is appreciated. im mostly looking to figure out what the method is on figuring out how many cubes you need inside the sealed area, and how much you need in the ported area and what you port it to, and why you port it at that hz. im planning on building multiple boxes for this sub to figure out what i like best

Hey everyone. I am not sure what the policies are with box designs are here so i thought i would ask. If I asked for a design on the forum and someone does give me one do i pay them or what?? this is just a picture of the box. Like the dimensions of the pieces of wood. I could make the box but i have no clue on how to design a port or tune a box. If this was not clear or difficult to understand than let me know or just delete it , hha Thanks, Matt Cusack

I ordered my First 18in. btl on tuesday and i am ordering my second on friday. In anticipation I got to playing around with some designs. I am going with a wall build in my trailblazer and i got the front template all cut out perfectly today and threw it into sketchup. Double baffled 3/4in. mdf on the front and double baffle all around for the actual enclosure also " even though it is not shown in sketchup" After sub displacement it sits at 21.07cf. and no i am not counting the sub braces since i just put those in to see how i would set them since i dont have the actual subs yet. also i will be throwing in a couple of 45's to help so am i missing anything big/gettin…

i was surfing around another sight and seen a post of a fellar wanting to check his design on a port. he was told a length by the guy , and drafted the port out accordingly. the port he presented is the exacrt length he was told. i was just thrown off by this because it is a slot port, and i thought that the end correction should of been factored in. i was told it wasn't. so does the end correction not always factor into a port design? the port folded so it was so it was not on the exterior wall, but ended inside the box along the adjacent port wall. thanks for the help. just wanting to ensure i am equiped with the right info. chop edit.... the length given was to be 26…

Originally I thought my enclosure specs were very close to these, tuning and volume wise: 42W" x 22H" x 22D" - outer dimensions= 9.84961ft3 gross volume 7.3ft3 net volume tuned to 32Hz 6W" x 20.5H" for 123in2 of port area port 1-14.5" + port 2- 7" = 21.5" port length After reading through Chops end correction thread, Ive decided to do the math myself and find out what Ive really got. This is what Ive come up with. Im way off... The port length is actually 27.5". I had no idea how to measure the port. The tuning is more like 30.3Hz port volume calculation: 6W" x 20.5H"=123in2 123in2 x 27.5"=3382.5in2 3382.5in2/1728in2= 1.96ft3 of port volume 9.84961ft3-1.96ft3(port volume…

I'm having my enclosure built for an Fi BL 15 that I'm ordering. Im getting the enclosure 3.5 cubic feet. Ported of course. And tuning at 35 hertz. I listen to mostly bass songs. though i do like listening to my spanish too. Bass rap/hip hop music like Young Jeezy, Gucci, Lil Wayne, and so on. Its going in my Altima trunk. Please give me some input, shed some light. Thanks all.

So I just got my SAZ-1200D and Diamond Audio TDX 10D4s wired up. The box I built is 2.5 ft^3 (after displacement), tuned to 33hz. Now the question is: If I build a larger box but keep the tuning freq the same, would the subs sound the same? Hit lower? This setup bangs for 2 10's in the 30-40 range, but doesn't quite hit the super lows that great.

I currently have my sub in a poorly designed enclosure accidently tuned to 53hz. Im going to have my dad build me a new one for my birthday. I designed one using the RE calc and came out with a "classic" L port box with the sub and port on same side, tuned to 31.5hz a 4.03 cubes. I want to have the sub facing up and the port back though because i use my trunk frequently and am paranoid about my sub. My question is how would i go about designing this? The total dimensions for the box i designed with sub and port same side are 26" W 21" H 20"D. I also was wondering how this would affect the sound and volume. Thanks alot for the help.

ok i was told to post this here, this is a link to my thread. can i please get some help on this please! sa-10 box help - SSA Car Audio Forum

I would like to know where I can get some MDF for a temporary/test enclosure I plan to build, I don't care how cheap or low in quality it is, since this will only be a test enclosure, I live in southern wisconsin, if you know of any stores here or any online shops that are cheap let me know. This will be for my 15" xcon for a temporary sealed enclosure for now, and after I get it in its new enclosure I will use this box for future testing purposes. i did do a quick search through the forums and I got zero results, kinda weird.

I have a beautiful box that was built specifically for my vehicle. Now im going a different direction with my setup and I want to lower the tune on the enclosure. I have done a little research and I know that decreasing the port width will lower the tune of my enclosure but i will have to sacrifice a little port area to do so. What are the pros and cons of doing this? By the way the enclosure is tuned to 35 hz and i would like to change it to about 30 or 31. I currently have 100 in squared port area.

Since I'm only on my phone right i can't really use any software to design a box. If you could just give me the cut out measurments that would be great. Maybe a picture of what it might look like. Tuned to 30hz Demensions 32Lx20Wx16H If possible I want the port in the middle with a board separating the the two. So the subs each have there own chamber. All help is appreciated.

How much mdf would i need to build a sealed 3 cubic foot enclosure for my 15" xcon