SPL & SQ / Fabrication

i designed a new banner for 08' i used car show twice ill fixx it later

Are there any SQ comps that are regularly in NC? I see that a lot of you SQ guys are from VA, where do you usually compete? Any local organizations or the like? I have never competed before, so I would appreciate it if someone could point me in the right direction. While I'm at it, what are the different SQ classes, and their requirements?

Has anyone done one of these before ? I reciently picked up a eD e8a and I wanted to try it in one. I found a formula that seems fairly simple to follow. Build a box with 2 chambers, one at 3 cuft and the other one EXACTLY half of that, ie 1.5 cuft. Next cut 3 ports all IDENTICAL in length. Put one in the face of each chamber and the third in the wall separating the two chambers. In this instance each port would be either 12.5" long for a little deeper response or 8" long for a little more SPL. Now you have a box with a big chamber with a vent in it, a small chamber with a vent in it, and a third vent in the wall between the two. The woofer also mounts in the large chambe…

i have a 92 s10 blazer and i want to put a single 15" sundown d2 and i want to build a spl box but i will use this as a daily driver does anyone have blueprints or pics of any boxes for this setup?

i was wondering if anyone could help me with some plans for a box, for my 15" its an alpine type-r. i no, not the greatest. but its my 1st sub. the opening on my trunk is about 41" by 18" also i have a picture, if that helps.

Long story short, Everything is brand new. I have a 12 RE Sex that I built in a sealed box. The box was to big after I was done (1.66) so I packed the back wall with 2x4. Well after I had installed everything I had local shop try to tune the sub. They agreed it was missing the low and just had no balls. They suggested we use the same box and port it. Re specs for min port box is 1.5@35Hz. They said we could use the same box as it is 1.66 and they ported it using 3 inch pvc tube that was 7 inches long. It was night and day but I would like to get others opinions since I have put a lot of time and effort into redoing my entire audio setup. Here is my setup: Truck: 05 Ford F…

I need a good set of box plans drawn up i have no problem building them.....just a noob at designing them i have all the t/s parameters ect... im really looking for a burp box i alreay have a daily box that does decent numbers on the TL ....just need something designed for the TL....Let me know if you can help me out. Thanks....

I am building an enclosure for my truck today. I will have 2.5^3 net before port behind my rear seat. I have a few different options available. I have a Rockford T1500.1 bd CP for power. I have already 6 Rockford P2 8"s, my plan was to do 4 ported. Would end up .5 each after port and all with a single 4" Aero Port. Would tune it around 29Hz Thoughts? Ideas?

first off here is my box: here are the plans i used to build it: 2.26cuft@34hz i have a 12" fi Q BP power off 1200 clean watts and it sounds great in the car but when i pop the trunk while the sub is playing there is this whistling and its really annoying... seems to happen worse on low notes... what is the cause, not enough port area? cuz i am pretty sure there is plenty of port for this sub ive already decided i'm building a new box eventually but this is an annoyance that i would like to avoid with my next build tia!!

Alright I think I'm going to start competiting in MECA. Sort of confused on the fuse rating thing though. Anyone wana help me see what class I would be in? I would like to compete in AS or Drive By. I think I would do better in AS to start off with. The local state record is 144.2 and thats AS2. Should I have a problem with that? Also one other thing. It doesn't say that I can/can't have an upgraded alternator. Should I just not put it on or go ahead and put it on? Not sure what to do in that situation. Also it says no resins or anything. Does that mean in the box? I can't coat the inside with resin? What all could I do to help get the dBs up? Thanks for any help. Mike

If I drill a whole just big enough for the speaker wire to pass through what should I use to seal up the whole so no air leaks out? Thanks

Hello This is my first post here, I made a quick look ,it's interesting forum. However I want to ask about the specs of the SQ system and components? I have Car PC controlling my sound system which is: Car PC with Turtle beach and Creative Xmod USB sound cards. Rear - Infinity Reference 9613i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers Front - Infinity Kappa 63.7i 6-1/2" 3-way car speakers Amp - JBL CS60.4 4 Ch 240 Watt Full Range Amplifier what do I need to add/change to have SQ system? thanks

I have 1 06 Kicker L715 in a ported box in a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo. Im gonna build a new box first the measurments are Build the enclosure to internally measure 5.0 cubic feet. Use a port opening that measures 50 square inches (3" X 16") and a port length that measures 15" deep into the enclosure. Im looking for a little sq but mostly spl. Its goona be tuned to 33hz. Is that good for what im looking for. My amp is a KX1200.1 and its wired down to 1 ohm. Thanks for any input

I'm making a box and the port needs to turn. is it pretty simple like so... thanks...

Still doing my Thunderbird blowthrough build with the 2-12"BTLs but Im already looking ahead of what I can upgrade to. I know what I wanna do (no Im not telling). Soooooo I want some opinions on a enclosure I thought up. The question is really about the direction of the port. The box will be a half L and half T shape.....(removing rear seats) part of it would be in the trunk but most of the box is in the cabin. so the subs would be facing up with the port forward. reason why I want the subs up is so I can use some plexi. It'll be just above shoulder level. Leveled with the rear deck. This is what Ive drawn up. Do u think the port will be fine facing forward? note this is …

i have i box that i need to find out what it's volume is and what it is tuned at. it is made of 3/4" mdf and has a double baffle. outside dimensions are: H 23 1/4" W 20" D 45" inside port dimensions are: H 5" W 18 1/2" D this i am not sure which measurement i need if i measure from the face of the port to the back wall it is 44 1/4" deep if i am to measure the length of the wall which divides the box to form the port it is 38 3/4" deep there is a 45% in the back of the port. thanks in advance for the help. would like to learn how to do these calculations also. perhaps if some one had the extra time i would love to see it drafted up into…

ok well I have been toying with the idea of 2 15's in a wall in the bug (13cf gross) but will that much air movein in their cause cancelation or something that would hurt my score more than help it. I also only have usaci comps up where I'm at so I am allowed to open my doors and such just woundering. Thank mc

I was wondering how I can properly set and adjustable a LOC with a stock radio and aftermarket amps. Equipment: Stock H/U SVEN LOC Zed Minilith Sundown 100.4 The RCA's after the H/U are going into the Mini and split (y adaptors) to the sundown. The LOC has four individual knobs for setting the input signal. Sorry if this is not enough.

i've got a sealed box for my rl-p's. its built into the well of my car and is a major, major pain in the ass to take out of the car, or i would just pull it out and feel for air moving at the joints. when i push one of the speakers in, the other will push out, and very, very slowly settle back. is this normal or does that mean there is a leak somewhere?

hey all been looking to make a t-line for a large scale project but wanted to start off with something small in case it doesn't turn out so well. now i no the port area has to be the same as the subs cone area, and the length is the speed of sound divided by the fs of the sub then divided again by four. but ive been told some have a common chamber and some don't and also im trying to figure out how to tune it or can you only tune it to the fs of the sub? any help would be greatly appreciated and ill let you guys know how it turns out once im done thanks mike E

Many times I have been asked: "What if I don't have a table saw, how can i still make a good box?" This video answers that question. Enjoy!

Ok this box will be for a customer of mine and i cannot find a damb thing about these woofers.. personally i dont like PT products but if you got money imma build it.. lol so im thinging 4.5cubes 63sqin of port and tunned to like 36hrz sound good smaller bigger let me know

I am putting together a box for a single 12" xcon. It will net 2.7 ft^3 and be tuned to 30hz. My question is: how much difference will lining the inside of the box with resin make? Is it worth the extra time and money? This is a daily setup, I do not compete. Will my ears b able to tell the difference?

Ok guys here's the deal...... I've built two boxes so far this summer and have had problems with both of them. I need to know the best spot to put the port in a regular cab truck, preferably a Ford Ranger. First Box: This one got pretty loud but there was a ton of port noise. It is 1.1@33hz with a 3'' aeroport up-firing. The reason I ditched it was the port noise and I didn't like how it fit behind the seats....too deep at the top. New box: 1.1@33 again with a 3'' aeroport. Now it fires into the corner about 4'' away from the side panel. The output dropped rediculously and also the bass is just so flat sounding....it sounds horrible. What should I do? I'd appreciate he…

Can anyone help me design a ported box for 2 RE 8's? Needs to be 1 cube, around 32 hertz... I just don't know how to figure out the Port Lenth (want a slot port), the external demensions (with port displacement), and so on... Any help would be great... Oh, it's not vehicele specific, just your basic retangular box... -BW