SPL & SQ / Fabrication

first off here is my box: here are the plans i used to build it: 2.26cuft@34hz i have a 12" fi Q BP power off 1200 clean watts and it sounds great in the car but when i pop the trunk while the sub is playing there is this whistling and its really annoying... seems to happen worse on low notes... what is the cause, not enough port area? cuz i am pretty sure there is plenty of port for this sub ive already decided i'm building a new box eventually but this is an annoyance that i would like to avoid with my next build tia!!

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This is kind of how I want my box we will be adding some surprised but this is the basics of it. Ok for the car audio techs. What is the specs to make this port tuned at 30hz-35hz L ( ) W ( ) H ( ) I know my installer will know, but I just want to find out for myself. Oh yeah could you also let me know how you got your answer I want to learn as I go.

Still doing my Thunderbird blowthrough build with the 2-12"BTLs but Im already looking ahead of what I can upgrade to. I know what I wanna do (no Im not telling). Soooooo I want some opinions on a enclosure I thought up. The question is really about the direction of the port. The box will be a half L and half T shape.....(removing rear seats) part of it would be in the trunk but most of the box is in the cabin. so the subs would be facing up with the port forward. reason why I want the subs up is so I can use some plexi. It'll be just above shoulder level. Leveled with the rear deck. This is what Ive drawn up. Do u think the port will be fine facing forward? note this is …

ok, so im about to start a T-line enclosure for a single 10" and im wondering if i should bother doing a double baffle, or even just double thick mounting plate. the line is only 5 inches wide and 11" tall, so its naturally pretty well braced, and it will probably only be seeing somewhere between 250 and 400 watts. so will a double baffle really help? if not, do you think that i should use a mounting plate to give the screws more wood to bite into? thanks for any input

I'm making a box and the port needs to turn. is it pretty simple like so... thanks...

I need a good set of box plans drawn up i have no problem building them.....just a noob at designing them i have all the t/s parameters ect... im really looking for a burp box i alreay have a daily box that does decent numbers on the TL ....just need something designed for the TL....Let me know if you can help me out. Thanks....

Many times I have been asked: "What if I don't have a table saw, how can i still make a good box?" This video answers that question. Enjoy!

ok well I have been toying with the idea of 2 15's in a wall in the bug (13cf gross) but will that much air movein in their cause cancelation or something that would hurt my score more than help it. I also only have usaci comps up where I'm at so I am allowed to open my doors and such just woundering. Thank mc

Alright I think I'm going to start competiting in MECA. Sort of confused on the fuse rating thing though. Anyone wana help me see what class I would be in? I would like to compete in AS or Drive By. I think I would do better in AS to start off with. The local state record is 144.2 and thats AS2. Should I have a problem with that? Also one other thing. It doesn't say that I can/can't have an upgraded alternator. Should I just not put it on or go ahead and put it on? Not sure what to do in that situation. Also it says no resins or anything. Does that mean in the box? I can't coat the inside with resin? What all could I do to help get the dBs up? Thanks for any help. Mike

I am putting together a box for a single 12" xcon. It will net 2.7 ft^3 and be tuned to 30hz. My question is: how much difference will lining the inside of the box with resin make? Is it worth the extra time and money? This is a daily setup, I do not compete. Will my ears b able to tell the difference?

hey all been looking to make a t-line for a large scale project but wanted to start off with something small in case it doesn't turn out so well. now i no the port area has to be the same as the subs cone area, and the length is the speed of sound divided by the fs of the sub then divided again by four. but ive been told some have a common chamber and some don't and also im trying to figure out how to tune it or can you only tune it to the fs of the sub? any help would be greatly appreciated and ill let you guys know how it turns out once im done thanks mike E

Hello This is my first post here, I made a quick look ,it's interesting forum. However I want to ask about the specs of the SQ system and components? I have Car PC controlling my sound system which is: Car PC with Turtle beach and Creative Xmod USB sound cards. Rear - Infinity Reference 9613i 6"x9" 3-way car speakers Front - Infinity Kappa 63.7i 6-1/2" 3-way car speakers Amp - JBL CS60.4 4 Ch 240 Watt Full Range Amplifier what do I need to add/change to have SQ system? thanks

I have 1 06 Kicker L715 in a ported box in a 2004 Isuzu Rodeo. Im gonna build a new box first the measurments are Build the enclosure to internally measure 5.0 cubic feet. Use a port opening that measures 50 square inches (3" X 16") and a port length that measures 15" deep into the enclosure. Im looking for a little sq but mostly spl. Its goona be tuned to 33hz. Is that good for what im looking for. My amp is a KX1200.1 and its wired down to 1 ohm. Thanks for any input

I've been to one spl comp and it was not even a real event, just a thing where people could get on the mic's (and audiocontrol mics at that ). I live in seattle and can not find a SINGLE spl comp anywhere near here. It seems like they are all out east. Around here we have Adire and Audiocontrol as well as Sounddomain.com / cardomain.com and other names that are getting somwhat big so my question is, why no comps around here???? -aaron

i have i box that i need to find out what it's volume is and what it is tuned at. it is made of 3/4" mdf and has a double baffle. outside dimensions are: H 23 1/4" W 20" D 45" inside port dimensions are: H 5" W 18 1/2" D this i am not sure which measurement i need if i measure from the face of the port to the back wall it is 44 1/4" deep if i am to measure the length of the wall which divides the box to form the port it is 38 3/4" deep there is a 45% in the back of the port. thanks in advance for the help. would like to learn how to do these calculations also. perhaps if some one had the extra time i would love to see it drafted up into…

i've got a sealed box for my rl-p's. its built into the well of my car and is a major, major pain in the ass to take out of the car, or i would just pull it out and feel for air moving at the joints. when i push one of the speakers in, the other will push out, and very, very slowly settle back. is this normal or does that mean there is a leak somewhere?

If I drill a whole just big enough for the speaker wire to pass through what should I use to seal up the whole so no air leaks out? Thanks

I was wondering how I can properly set and adjustable a LOC with a stock radio and aftermarket amps. Equipment: Stock H/U SVEN LOC Zed Minilith Sundown 100.4 The RCA's after the H/U are going into the Mini and split (y adaptors) to the sundown. The LOC has four individual knobs for setting the input signal. Sorry if this is not enough.

Ok this box will be for a customer of mine and i cannot find a damb thing about these woofers.. personally i dont like PT products but if you got money imma build it.. lol so im thinging 4.5cubes 63sqin of port and tunned to like 36hrz sound good smaller bigger let me know

Pic of specs (or really close to, but hows the design, first ever, opinons, ideas, positive feeback.... will it work?? lol thanks guys!!

What would be considered too small for a round port (in terms of diameter)? I'm trying to design a ported box (0.7 ft^3 ~ 24hz) w/ round ports for an RL-I 8" and the only diameter port I can use w/ a reasonable length is less than 1.5"...won't this create noise? I just can't imagine using a 1" port for that monster... What's the rule of thumb y'all?

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i have a 92 s10 blazer and i want to put a single 15" sundown d2 and i want to build a spl box but i will use this as a daily driver does anyone have blueprints or pics of any boxes for this setup?

This will be my first wall build, I've been doing a lot of reading and looking at build logs. I should start by saying the plan is 2-3 (if I can fit 3) RE XXX 15's, on either a DC Audio 12k or Stetsom 14K. I think I'm going to go with Baltic Birch for weight and strength, I am seeing guys using 2 by 4 bracing, also seeing them use it for the back of the wall outside, what is the purpose? is it needed? what other ways would you strengthen the wall or face? the subs weigh 76lbs a piece. I was thinking 3-4 layer front face, double layer everywhere else, fully resin the box. How much bracing would you recommend? If you have pics or anything else you might recommend I'm open …