SPL & SQ / Fabrication

well..just got back... took second in the local class with a 144.4 outlaw on the new tl using my orion. lost to a box i built,lol, in a grandprix..two eclipse ti 12's (one blown), two memphis 1500d's, two optima's and iraggi alt..145.6. the local class was a run what u brung sorta thing...so my stock electrical system (save the big three and redtop optima) was my downfall mostly i believe as my voltage drops are huge! but at least i lost to my own enclosure..lol! and helped a friend to a 147.6 with 4 memphis pr 12's and an american bass amp...and a first in his class, 0-300 stock. time for a new system... wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

Just spent the past hour trying to understand the entire deal with box specs and this is what I got Didn't really do any displacement math which is why I put in the Tuning Freq. at 26 Figured after all displacements highest it'd be would be at highest around 35 Hz Anyone see any design flaws with this? The Box is going in a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo and I listen to Rock/Rap but more so Rap music.

Total volume = 5.333 (1 inch MDF) Port Volume = 0.64 Tune = 31hz Box dimensions Total Box = 38 x 18 x 18 Port = 3 x 16 x 23 Is this a good design for a ported 15, or two ported 12s? If not, what needs to change? also, could the subs be mounted on the top? Would this effect quality or spl?

Hey guys, I have been talking to a member on here about some calculations I used from BCAE1.com, and something just isnt adding up right.. here is a pic of the box I HAD DESIGNED by a member, so I trust this will work, but I just wanted to enter in the info on BCAE1 to see if they would give me about the same specs.. NOPE....>>>>>>>> This is the box I want to build... but when I put the specs into the BCAE1 site... it tells me to build a 1.3" port... what am I doing wrong here with this program????????? Height? =15 Inches Width? = 39.5 Inches Depth1? =26.5 Inches Depth2? = 26.5 Inches If the above dimensions are OUTSIDE dimensio…

Alright I'm looking for advice on a sub box design for an Sa-12 that will give as much SPL as possible - without sounding terribly peaky. I'm willing to compromise on Spl for a frequency curve that would be acceptable for normal music listening- hip hop, rock, and country. sub is on JX 1000/1 - if you have questions about my vehicle and setup - look on my profile first under "About Me" and then ask me if the info you want is not there. Member Quentin Jarrell said "I would build the enclosure 1.75 cubic feet net tuned to 32 hertz. This will give you a 3db ripple (boost) at 35 herts and give you a F3 (-3db) at 26 hertz. This will give you the sense of exaggerated bass …

I need helping figuring out how to go about getting 6.5s in the doors of my 86 GMC Sonoma. As some of you might know that S Series trucks (S15s and S10s) around that year didn't come with door speakers from the factory, only dash and back panels. I never fiberglassed before so if possible i would like to stay away from that.. but if i must i will take on the challenge, if i could get away with just putting a sheet of MDF on the door and cut holes for my 6.5s that would be great.. but i don't think there is enough space between the door and where the MDF would sit because there was no speaker in before hand so GMC didn't give it the room for speakers so somehow i have to m…

well yesterday i took all of my max dimensions and came up with 7.1cf. and thats before port and sub displacement.... so i have a few questions about this.... 1. will this box (after sub and port displacement) be big enough (doing 1 big single chamber) & 2. what would be a good port width to go with? jaycee said tuning them @34hz would be a good start but im not sure on how wide to make the port. any thoughts???? 3. i was told that in a truck, having the subs and port both up gets the best results. is this true? im using 2 10" kicker solo x's

now... this is my first wall that i will be doing. and i am not to sure on how to go about starting. i already have a cardboard mock-up of the false floor...but thats it. my car has alot of wierd curves etc, so im not sure how to exactly "measure" my deminsions. so how would i get a volume? i will need someone to design 2 ports for me as well. basically, how do i start? any info is appreiciated. its 4 DCON 15"s off of a sax1200 here is some pics of the rear. its going BEHIND the 2nd row of seats.

So the Mag that is coming is going to need a worthy home in April's alero. I'm thinking: Shooting for 1.75ft^3, ported to 32hz with 18in^2 of port. Only going to feed her ~600rms @ 4ohm (Lanzar Vibe). Woofer in the rear corner, port running fwd and venting into the center, amp (the white thingy) frenched into the glass 'in front of' the port. Coo? -Nick

Upon further inspection, my fifteens were abused by the previous owner, and only have one functioning coil each, so i'll be replacing then much sooner than expected. I am still not completely decided on a course of action, but I thought I would ask some questions about walls before I wrote it off as too difficult. First one, I know the weight will lower mileage significantly, which isn't cool, but I live within four miles of all my main destinations, so it's not too bad. Will the weight of a wall enclosure require attention to the suspension? to be honest, i'm not entirely sure what kinds of questions to ask, so any advice from those of you experienced with such enclosur…

This isn't really a "how to" considering I didn't take a lot of pictures, and I don't really know what I'm doing, but people can learn from my mistakes and what I've learned in the last year. First mess up, didn't use any mold release between the tape and laying down the mat. Usually people use wax or some spray, even spam? I don't know, but I f#cked that part up. Trimmed the panels down. Used non-hardening clay to angle the baffles. Since I'm using small baffles with relatively light drivers, and low depth, the clay held the shape well for aiming, and everything. If your using larger drivers then clay may not suffice. I propose a toast: to 2-part expanding foam. …

well, after a long and horrid search for a sub, i finally purchased a near new eD 13Ov.2 (bought in Jan. '06). now, its time to design an enclosure. i know eD has 1 ft^3 for the recommended but i was just curious if there was anything better, as it shows 1 ft^3 for the Ov.2 and Kv.2. obviously, looking for sealed right now, not going ported YET. i want it to hit hard, hit all those double bass kick drums hard, want to get as low as possible, and decently loud. oh yea, going to be putting 400 watts @ 4 ohms to it. no plans for amp expansion right now. im looking for a cube, not a rectangle as well. i figured up on rockfordfosgate.com and a 13.75x13.75x13.75 cube (external)…

http://www.audiojunkies.com/blog/551/world...ingle-subwoofer can this be confirmed ?

So, Ive been sitting here thinking about about what I should do. I'm wondering if Aeroports could be a viable solution.

It was around 1990 when I helped install two 15"inch subs (i believe they were Pyramid) in a Chevy Cavalier, and installing a 15" MTX in a Mustang hatch back. Both systems were running around 300-400 watts or so and were extremely loud for the time. As car audio has become more popular, I've seen the trend go to the bigger and loudest SPL system you can get (Is there really a 2-way system that can keep up with a 2000-4000 watts sub system and sound good, and not have to have 8 mids and 12 tweets?). The thought of thousands of watts in a system were unheard of. As Im getting older, the trend still keeps expanding. Now you have people installing a sub stage with thousands…

Sup guys...we're having a compeition coming here on the 6th...it'll be on DBTV so check it out!! I won't be using my car...I'll be using a friends Durango. Going to use a Orion H2 15.2 and a 2500D. Basically building the system for this comp because that would never fit in my t-bird. I'll start posting pics as I build the system and will post results and some video on what I hit on the 6th. Any guesses?? I"m thinking low 140's....I have no clue what it'll do. HCCAfan are you currently running H2's?

So I know what SQ means and I'm not going 100% that route. I want something that sounds good to my ears. I don't want a flat band but then again I don't want a U either. I want a good blend of bass to midbass and no harsh highs, but I do like loudish tweeters. Not the cheap hood ninja ones where they have 4 sets. To start off, its going in my 01 Ford F250 CrewCab. I'm thinking of Headunit- Kenwood DoubleDin(no sure on which yet.) Subbass- 2 10 AA Chaos(Behind backseat) Midbass/Midrange -AA 7" CF mid(Factory Door location) Tweeter- AA Seas tweeter Processor- Not sure yet. (I like the RF 3sixty) Sub amp- Sundown SAZ1500v2(or 2000d) Mid amp- Crossfire VR404 bridged Tweeter a…

okay guys im making my brother- in-laws box and i was cutting with a jigsaw and made a little curve by any chance do you think it will be okay because you have no clue how worried i am about this i mean i want to do it right but i just hope i didn't mess it up if anybody thinks it's fine just send me a p.m or just put it on here because i really REALLY need to know......

Just still curius, about db dust amd spl glue can i have a hint on what that is???

Hello. I bought this car a few months back and the time has come for me to start with audio upgrades. I would like to focus this thread on the front stage. My goals: Two-way active setup. Clean sound. Ability to get decently loud inside the car, I have no interest in a parking lot party vehicle. Good, precise response in the listening frequency range. Installation locations: I have two 10" Sundown Neo Pro midbass drivers I am planning on installing, one per door. Around 0.5 cub ft ported, tuned to ~60Hz. I would like to retain my foot space, so for now kick panels are out of the picture. I have no problem with mounting speakers on the A pillars or on/under the dash. I ha…

I am new to this and replacing my RE SXX 15 worried after a year it sounded cool, but the thing on E40 etc. to long might have to be turned down got a little smell. I have looked at Xcon wanting something lower and only way I could fit an 18" would be in a sealed box, upgrading to try and get more low end, handle Hifonics Brutus 2400 better, and hit all day. It will be one speaker guess everyone seems to call Xcon SQ sub more than Zcon, 15 would bolt in box net slightly over 3.55 aero port 6" might upsize box and run 4-5 4" tune it lower even in current setup probably tune it lower then RE was. I looked at the Zcon 15 because of the better coil and actually sensitivit…

I am designing my wall in my 95 Lumina, It is a four door Sedan. The wall will go up to the front seats. I was planning on making the port on the drivers side Vertically with two 18's like so On the other hand my father said it would be better to do the port on the top or the bottom with the woofers above the port. Is this true?

Here is the start of the kicks built by ramos himself. dont mind the hanging wires lol i dont know where that came from

I managed a 148.2 at 25Hz a year ago in a vehicle that was NOT designed for competition, let alone SPL. I simply wanted a vehicle that could get pretty loud, pretty low, and yet still sound very clear. Out of curiosity I went and got metered to see how loud it was below 30Hz. When I did so I got bombarded with "well this guy with 24 15's in 4th order got a 161 @ 25Hz" and "well this guy got a 154 with just 2 10's at 25Hz". Later some guy, who despite being from this forum was very polite and nice, comented on some of my posts. He was installing 2 18's and tuning around 30Hz IIRC. So I joked and said I'd give him my other alternator if he could beat my 148 @ 25Hz. He tol…

I will be fiberglassing an enclosure for my SA-15 into the spare tire well, but don't know if it will be happy in a sealed box. I listen mainly to hip hop and occasionally rock, so I want it to hit those low notes with some authority, but seeing as it has such a high F3 I'm not to sure if it will do that. Also seeing everyone else who picks up one of these ports it, I don't want to build a sealed enclosure to find out that it isn't what I want. I'd like to go sealed to make the install easier since it'll be my first time fiberglassing and building a box, and to save a little room and keep the design much simpler as I would like to maintain as much hatch space as I can.