SPL & SQ / Fabrication

When mounting subs like this, can you make the enclosure smaller than recommended? For instance, if the subs call for 1.5 cubes each ported can you get away with making the box 2-2.5 for both? What are the (dis)advantages to mounting subs like this? Or are there any?I know the polarity needs to be reversed with the sub mounted inverted.

the sub should be here within the week. it will be going in a 2002 cavalier. i have limits on the box, so i have come up with 36w x 17h x 13d with 2 3"ID ports tuning to 35hz. i read some where i could tune the box a little higher due to the fact i listen to a wide range of music. any truth?? sub will fire into the cab area. i have also read some where about sealing off the trunk. so, i would seal off the enclosure from the rest of the trunk and channel all the sound into the cab area?? any specifications on space needed in front of the woofer or ports??

Has anybody had any experience with Rear-Firing in Single Cab? I plan on doing this or downfiring. The only problem with downfiring is the max bottom depth I can do is 12.5" so the 12" sub will be on the surface of the wood just barely. I'm worried it might not be enough support because that will leave about 1/2" on both sides of the Sub Hole. (Where ever the sub will be, it will at least have 2 baffles.)

I am building a box for 2 XCON 18s and am trying to get as close to recommended specs as possible. box is going in a 99 Durango. i really want my subs facing forward so people can see what they are feeling! But not sure about where to place the port. SSA recommends 100 inches port area for each sub, so only real options on location is on the front, bottom; or facing the back hatch. i noticed a lot of street rides have the port facing the hatch for whatever reason. any input/suggestions will be greatly appreciated

I'm going to build a box for a Fi Bl 15 that needs to fit against the angle of the seats in the cargo area of my 4runner. I want it to be ported and tuned to about 33-34 htz, but i'm having trouble finding out how to tune the box with the angled back on the box. I was wondering if anybody knows of any online programs or calculators that would tell me what size the port should be in the box to get it tuned right. Thanks for any help.

Is there a major sound difference for a 12" from 2.30 Cu. Ft. to 2.50 Cu. Ft.??

is there a meter that costs like $150 instead of just stepping up to this. i dont need it to be that accurate i just want a round about number ... need something that can measure around 155 db (just to be safe lol)

I have a 1990 lincoln towncar, and i need help deciding on where the sub and port should go. I had my ss rl-p18 in there, sub/port back, but i didnt like that. I cant put the sub forward because ltc trunks are like pits with no clear passage to the cab if you get what im saying. Thanks

Okay so I went to Home Depot to get some MDF, Glue, & Screws. So I see the 3/4" MDF and grab a sheet. Then I get home, take it off the truck and find out it's 5/8" instead. Would it be okay to use 5/8" instead of 3/4"? Its going to be for a Single Cab, Downfiring Enclosure, With a Double Baffle. Sub will be AQ HDC3 12"

To figure how much air a specific subwoofer should need using the information like, (VCdia: 1-1/4" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.6 ohms *Frequency range: 45-1,500 Hz *Fs: 45 Hz *SPL: 82 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: .24 cu.ft. *Qms: 2.68 *Qes: .61 *Qts: .49 *Xmax 9.25mm) and does any one know a good thing or two about designing t lines.

me and my friend made a ported box tuned to 28 hz ... we followed the volume according to the specifications of the subwoofers (2 12" pioneer premier ts-w3002d4) ... we made 2 separate 1.4 cu ft boxes ... the output is not what we thought it would be ... we want it to be louder and maintain sound quality ... what size cu ft box should we make to get more output? .... should we combine them into a single box? ... if so how do you do the portwork insde?

Ok, so my buddy does a real decent job at painting and can do pretty decent job at detailed pictures. So what i wanna know is how can i get this type of painting onto an enclosure. Its made with MDF wood 3/4" thick if that means anything. Now im also trying to figure out how to paint this wood so it will look smooth and as less like wood as possible, which means if that cant be done then the detailed painting may not work. Anyways what i want to know is what can i do to the surface, that wont ruin sound quality, that i can paint primer or whatever onto in order to do this paint job to it? im at a complete stop here so any links or anything will help me out at this point. …

I started to notice my sub was sounding a little weird today, so i check my box to make sure everything was ok, but it wasnt! i must have a leak in my trunk seal, because my box was soaked with water. booo. but anyways, i will be building a new box after i fix the leaks, and i need some advice on a different box setup. MY box was about 5 cubes after sub and brace displacement, tuned to 27hz. (sub/port back). I wasnt really impressed with the output at lower frequencies, and the overall output from the setup. (ss rl-p 18, aq2200d) Can anyone suggest a different design that can maximize the overall output? It's in a 1990 lincoln towncar. Thanks!

so here is my problem.. Ive never sound deadened a floor of a car but i have done everything else... so i pulled up out my seats and my carpet today so i can get started. well i noticed there's a rubber like matt and Styrofoam stuck to the floor should i try and pull this all up or am i gonna have a sticky mess?. im wondering if putting sound deadener on top of the matt would even do anything beneficial. should i just do the bare metal areas? I have 50 sq ft to put in on the floor and firewall. just trying to kill some road noise. any help is appreciated thanks a lot

Hey guys, I'm goin g to try and build a glassed back dash to hold my mids. I was wondering if someone could give me any tips and mainly what I will need to do this. I've heard fleece, resin, and hardener. But which ressin and Hardner should I get? If I use wood to build the base should I use like 1/4 inch mdf or does it matter. Anyway, I wanted to get some of the materials today so anything will help. I'm going to look for a jasper jig so I will be back. Josh

how exactly do u go about finding peak note to use in port wars? i know what to modify AFTER the port is made but how do u know which note to use? i was thinkin about throwin the meter in the box and sealing it up.. but... if i do this, will the car's peak note effect the peak note for port wars? or IS the proper tuning for port wars equal to SPL tuning?

im headin out to the store tomrrow to get some stuff well im there i wana pic up some new screws that will keep my sub down nice and thight. i did not go with a dubble baffle and with my new 15inch ssd on its way, i wana make sure that my sub does not lift out. here is the thing my last sub a audioq 2.5 was jumping around pretty hard in the same box the ssd is goin in. Can any one lead me to the right screws so i will not have a issue? I will be bolting the box down better to make sure the box it self is not goin no where as well. thanks guys Joe

im building a rectangular box. i was gonna ported cuz i was gonna get a 10" fi ssd. originally i was gonna make a L shaped ported box but was told 2 get aero ports insted. the box that i wanna build is 3/4" mdf and is 30" long, 9" deep, and 12" high and has 1.30 cu. ft. of air. The ssd needs to be .90-1.80 cu. ft ported to 33hz. wat should i do? can sum one make a diagram or sumthing? thanks.

I just copped 2 new 15" Alpine "Hype"-Rs for $200. Wanna play around with them & just see what all they can do. Ive always wanted to just see what they sound like cause I NEVER have. Ive been told the lows suck for the R so what kind of box could help put for that? 7cuft box tuned to 34 or 35hz? P.S. NOT my daily subs...

ok so i cant read a tape for nothing so i got the guy across the street to read it for me on my box iv'e asked this questions a few times but never had the right messurement's but now i do here they are the depth is 22'5/8 the lenght is 41'1/8 the width is 22'13/16 i have two L shape ports the messurement are length 4'3/4 depth is 18'1/4 and the bottom of the L sape port which gose toward the center of the box is 10'1/2 remember i have two L shape ports one on each side of the box with the same messurement's now at the bottom of the L shape port where it goes toward the center of the box i have 5'1/2 from the L SHAPE PORT to the back of the speaker box these are all …

I have a single rl-p 18 in 5 cubes tuned to 27hz, with 64sq in. of port. im running it with a aq2200d at 4 ohms. my question is that when i play songs with notes around 28 hz, its not really that audible, and doesnt move much air at all. Its probably just because its in a trunk. but I thought it would be alot louder on those low notes, considering its tuned to 27hz. My ssf is set around 30, i think that could be it, but i want to ask before i mess something up. thanks!

im gonna make some kick pods using my old kickpanels in my truck, but i saw a guy on here once making them with 1/4 inch mdf for the mounting plate, and then the rest was foam filler which he resined and glassed directly on top of that then wrapped them in vinyl. is this a good idea, or stick to the regular all glassed way?

I'm posting this up again....... THIS time heavily revised, it now has slot port calculations, and CUT SHEETS! This EXCEL based box calculator will take your enclosure size, woofer displacement, the wood thickness you plan on using and the frequency you wish to tune it to and gives you the GROSS enclosure size, dimensions (Including CUSTOM dimensions in which you input two of the OUTSIDE measurements and it gives you the last one.) PLUS gives you the cutout sizes for each panel of the enclosure you just asked for....... I'm putting it out for real world testing to be sure the math is good and the cuts are helpful......... Let me know ASAP what you think and what proble…

Well ive decided since i still have a week or two before i can start building my box, im going to design a ported box instead of a sealed box for my single ss rl-p 18. im going to stick with the suggested size and tuning(5cubes, 27hz) but i want to use flared aero ports. So here are some questions. 1) what diameter port should i buy and how many?( i kind of want two for the looks, but if ones better, let me know) 2) do you measure the flare of the port when tuning it? 3) were is a good place to buy them? thanks for the help!

ok, so im about to start a T-line enclosure for a single 10" and im wondering if i should bother doing a double baffle, or even just double thick mounting plate. the line is only 5 inches wide and 11" tall, so its naturally pretty well braced, and it will probably only be seeing somewhere between 250 and 400 watts. so will a double baffle really help? if not, do you think that i should use a mounting plate to give the screws more wood to bite into? thanks for any input