SPL & SQ / Fabrication

To figure how much air a specific subwoofer should need using the information like, (VCdia: 1-1/4" *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.6 ohms *Frequency range: 45-1,500 Hz *Fs: 45 Hz *SPL: 82 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: .24 cu.ft. *Qms: 2.68 *Qes: .61 *Qts: .49 *Xmax 9.25mm) and does any one know a good thing or two about designing t lines.

I have a 1990 lincoln towncar, and i need help deciding on where the sub and port should go. I had my ss rl-p18 in there, sub/port back, but i didnt like that. I cant put the sub forward because ltc trunks are like pits with no clear passage to the cab if you get what im saying. Thanks

me and my friend made a ported box tuned to 28 hz ... we followed the volume according to the specifications of the subwoofers (2 12" pioneer premier ts-w3002d4) ... we made 2 separate 1.4 cu ft boxes ... the output is not what we thought it would be ... we want it to be louder and maintain sound quality ... what size cu ft box should we make to get more output? .... should we combine them into a single box? ... if so how do you do the portwork insde?

I'm gonna be trying a lot of things and reporting what does and doesnt work. Unfortunately, i can't post back everything as the wall and corners have already been made. What i will be focusing on is head unit settings, amp settings, port area, port length, port angle, car seal jobs, car bracing, car mods, internal box coating, etc... As of right now, i did discover something rather interesting- The difference between playing a sine wave vs a square wave on the meter using a TLab. At low volume, a got a reading of 140.2 using a sine wave. At the same volume, i got a reading of 142.1 using a square wave. Now, when ran full tilt and clipped- SQUARE wave- 147.2 SINE wave - 14…

so here is my problem.. Ive never sound deadened a floor of a car but i have done everything else... so i pulled up out my seats and my carpet today so i can get started. well i noticed there's a rubber like matt and Styrofoam stuck to the floor should i try and pull this all up or am i gonna have a sticky mess?. im wondering if putting sound deadener on top of the matt would even do anything beneficial. should i just do the bare metal areas? I have 50 sq ft to put in on the floor and firewall. just trying to kill some road noise. any help is appreciated thanks a lot

I started to notice my sub was sounding a little weird today, so i check my box to make sure everything was ok, but it wasnt! i must have a leak in my trunk seal, because my box was soaked with water. booo. but anyways, i will be building a new box after i fix the leaks, and i need some advice on a different box setup. MY box was about 5 cubes after sub and brace displacement, tuned to 27hz. (sub/port back). I wasnt really impressed with the output at lower frequencies, and the overall output from the setup. (ss rl-p 18, aq2200d) Can anyone suggest a different design that can maximize the overall output? It's in a 1990 lincoln towncar. Thanks!

is there a meter that costs like $150 instead of just stepping up to this. i dont need it to be that accurate i just want a round about number ... need something that can measure around 155 db (just to be safe lol)

Hey guys, I'm goin g to try and build a glassed back dash to hold my mids. I was wondering if someone could give me any tips and mainly what I will need to do this. I've heard fleece, resin, and hardener. But which ressin and Hardner should I get? If I use wood to build the base should I use like 1/4 inch mdf or does it matter. Anyway, I wanted to get some of the materials today so anything will help. I'm going to look for a jasper jig so I will be back. Josh

how exactly do u go about finding peak note to use in port wars? i know what to modify AFTER the port is made but how do u know which note to use? i was thinkin about throwin the meter in the box and sealing it up.. but... if i do this, will the car's peak note effect the peak note for port wars? or IS the proper tuning for port wars equal to SPL tuning?

im gonna make some kick pods using my old kickpanels in my truck, but i saw a guy on here once making them with 1/4 inch mdf for the mounting plate, and then the rest was foam filler which he resined and glassed directly on top of that then wrapped them in vinyl. is this a good idea, or stick to the regular all glassed way?

Ok, so my buddy does a real decent job at painting and can do pretty decent job at detailed pictures. So what i wanna know is how can i get this type of painting onto an enclosure. Its made with MDF wood 3/4" thick if that means anything. Now im also trying to figure out how to paint this wood so it will look smooth and as less like wood as possible, which means if that cant be done then the detailed painting may not work. Anyways what i want to know is what can i do to the surface, that wont ruin sound quality, that i can paint primer or whatever onto in order to do this paint job to it? im at a complete stop here so any links or anything will help me out at this point. …

ok so i cant read a tape for nothing so i got the guy across the street to read it for me on my box iv'e asked this questions a few times but never had the right messurement's but now i do here they are the depth is 22'5/8 the lenght is 41'1/8 the width is 22'13/16 i have two L shape ports the messurement are length 4'3/4 depth is 18'1/4 and the bottom of the L sape port which gose toward the center of the box is 10'1/2 remember i have two L shape ports one on each side of the box with the same messurement's now at the bottom of the L shape port where it goes toward the center of the box i have 5'1/2 from the L SHAPE PORT to the back of the speaker box these are all …

im building a rectangular box. i was gonna ported cuz i was gonna get a 10" fi ssd. originally i was gonna make a L shaped ported box but was told 2 get aero ports insted. the box that i wanna build is 3/4" mdf and is 30" long, 9" deep, and 12" high and has 1.30 cu. ft. of air. The ssd needs to be .90-1.80 cu. ft ported to 33hz. wat should i do? can sum one make a diagram or sumthing? thanks.

im headin out to the store tomrrow to get some stuff well im there i wana pic up some new screws that will keep my sub down nice and thight. i did not go with a dubble baffle and with my new 15inch ssd on its way, i wana make sure that my sub does not lift out. here is the thing my last sub a audioq 2.5 was jumping around pretty hard in the same box the ssd is goin in. Can any one lead me to the right screws so i will not have a issue? I will be bolting the box down better to make sure the box it self is not goin no where as well. thanks guys Joe

Hey, i'm gonna spill out all kinds of info so make sure you understand it, hehe. I'm currently workin on your design right now, you will be using external dimensions of 42" wide x 17" tall x 22" deep. This IS what i am going with. You will be using a double baffle on this box. Box material will be constructed out of 0.75" material. I need to know what bracing material you will be using, Wooden dowels or 2x4s? Internal dimensions- 40.5" wide x 15.5" tall x 19.75" deep. Your speaker Outer Diameter is 10.91", i went ahead and rounded up to 11" for a hair more headroom for accidental measurement inaccuracy. Your Baffle design- The border around this baffle is showing the th…

Me and a buddy are building a box for 3 12 inch w6's, I was curious if I could have them all in the same chamber or if I should divide them all into individual boxes we already have the entire box built excluding the face of the box.. The dimensions are 51 3/4 wide by 16 1/8 tall by the top board is 15 inches deep and the bottom board is 18 7/8 deep (the box will have a slant face)(I am also using 3/4 inch mdf). I would also like to know how big I should build the port I wanna get about 32-33 hertz. Any help would be very much appreciated.

with making my box for four 15 subs sounds great but i have a slot port at bottom of the box and when the bass hits hard the middle inside of box flexs and makes a vibe sound. how should i brace this with out change the tune of the box?

I just copped 2 new 15" Alpine "Hype"-Rs for $200. Wanna play around with them & just see what all they can do. Ive always wanted to just see what they sound like cause I NEVER have. Ive been told the lows suck for the R so what kind of box could help put for that? 7cuft box tuned to 34 or 35hz? P.S. NOT my daily subs...

ok i built a box the length is 31 inch's with is 21 inch's hight is 17 inch's now i have 1 port comming off each side of of the outer 31 inch walls they are 3by21by22 one port on each side of the outer walls of the 31 inch's iam trying to find what cubic feet i have and what is my box tuned at on hurtz ?? any help would be verry helpfull i dident no i could get so stressed on a speaker box!18 fi btl iswhat i have

I need help with a box design for a 15" Mach5Audio MAW sub. The recommended sealed box size for this sub is 62 litres (2.2 cu.ft.) 30hz tuning. I would like an enclosure designed exactly to these specs if possible. Thanks in advance!

I have a single rl-p 18 in 5 cubes tuned to 27hz, with 64sq in. of port. im running it with a aq2200d at 4 ohms. my question is that when i play songs with notes around 28 hz, its not really that audible, and doesnt move much air at all. Its probably just because its in a trunk. but I thought it would be alot louder on those low notes, considering its tuned to 27hz. My ssf is set around 30, i think that could be it, but i want to ask before i mess something up. thanks!

okay simple enough for the knowledgable ones, IA's 187 12" subs, port up, subs back, going with 4.5 cubes and tunning at 34hz. using 4" aero ports (4"X17") =how many, how long? the one who answers this will receive good fortune for the rest of his days! thanks chop

So Im building my box but am confused as hell. Ive read I need 12-14sq. in. of port per ^3 but the manufacturer insists on 40sq. in. x10" long @32hz. for a 6^3 net box for my 18. Its an Atomic APX. When I spoke with them they said dont listen to anybody build this exact. WTF?! Any idea why? Its rated at 5000rms. Would the larger port make it unload at low freq. with that much power and thats why they say what they say? Shouldnt it have massive port noise?! Im so confused. Someone please straighten me out on why they want it EXACTLY as they say and yet the port area doesnt make sense?

I don't really want to order this stuff and have to wait for it so i wonder if i be alright using some things just lyin around the house? The space i got to fill isn't too large really. IT's about 3-4" wide and about 8" tall and the deeper the better. I was thinkin about stuffing all kinds of shirts that i dont wear anymore in there.. I'm sealing a wall and i gots to seal around a window and i'm not spraying foam on my glass so thick material is the only option. You think shirts or blanket sheets will work fine?.... then i'll just spray foam on this to complete the seal...

I'm posting this up again....... THIS time heavily revised, it now has slot port calculations, and CUT SHEETS! This EXCEL based box calculator will take your enclosure size, woofer displacement, the wood thickness you plan on using and the frequency you wish to tune it to and gives you the GROSS enclosure size, dimensions (Including CUSTOM dimensions in which you input two of the OUTSIDE measurements and it gives you the last one.) PLUS gives you the cutout sizes for each panel of the enclosure you just asked for....... I'm putting it out for real world testing to be sure the math is good and the cuts are helpful......... Let me know ASAP what you think and what proble…